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JAMES VICK,
ROCHESTER,N. Y.

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Min oS RH,

i mo Co, of Rochester: NW.

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SUCCESS IN FLOWER CULTURE.

SELECTION OF SEEDS, = : e : é : = x a 2 2 NG
THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION, - - - = : = = z 2 = 6
SOWING SEED, = : = = 2 4 5 : d Ms é aa)
Causes OF FAILURE, - = i e : : E . R : : 3 3
Hor-Beps anp CoLp-FRAMEs, - - c ss 3 : z E e ae
TRANSPLANTING, - = = 2 z = f * ¥ 4 a : 4 Io
DISAPPOINTED CULTIVATORS, = = a 2 Z a a 2 = z Io

THE LAWN AND GARDEN.

Maxine Lawns AND WALKS, - zs = a s 4 C x Le 3 s 12
PLANTING AND ORNAMENTING THE LAWN, - - - - - - - - - 15
BuLB AND PERENNIAL GROUNDS, - - : a = zZ 2 : : 17
GARDEN ADORNMENTS, 5 < 2 = = Z : f : 5 ak
Batcony GARDENS, = = & 3 4 a 2 a i «= Bs 20
Winbow Boxes, - = 5 3 / z ms a = uy : . eon
Piants FoR BaLconres, Winpow Boxes AND BEDDING, - - - - - - 21
THE WINTER GARDEN. ‘
HEart, = - - - - - - - - - - - - - —n29)
AiR AND LIGHT, - - 2 : 2 : 2 : Bs : : 23
Sort AND WartTER, - : f = c = 2 u : 2 i : = ea
CLEANLINESS, = = 2 2 = = v u ts Z = B 3 24
THE CONSERVATORY, . = J : 2 2 B = : 4 5! 26
WarDIAN CASES AND FERNERIES,) - - - - - - - - - - 26
Prants For House CuLtTureE, - : 2 = E e Z 4 5 2 - 26
INSECT ENEMIES TO HOUSE PLANTS.
THE GREEN FLy, - : = : Ps 2 = 5 = z Z 27
THRIPS, - F : E = = 2 = e a 2 z : 8
Rep SPIDER, - : - 2 2 : E : 2 s = 3 28
SCALE INSECT, - = 2 - : E : a 2 E Z : e328
Meaty Bua, = - : S = 2 : . s : 2 = Z 2
Corp. Pits, - = : 2 : s 2 : 2 B b : 29, 30
FLORAL DECORATIONS.
ForMING LETTERS, e : 2 - Z Z : 5 2 : 2 31
MakinGc Frorart Desicns, - - - - - - - - - . - 31
For THE CHURCH, - 2 = S 3 E ; e a cs i : 32
For THE HousgE, - = : = : 2 2 s 2 : - 33
For THE TABLE, = - . = - : E & i E 3 : 34
Bouquet Maxine, - : : - = : 4 é z 2 = 35
Bouquet AND TRIMMING GREEN, - - - - : = = = - : 35
Butron Hore FLowers, - - - - - - - - - = : 36, 37
WATER GARDENING, - 5 2 3 E : 2 2 . i : 3 38
CLASSIFICATION AND NAMES OF FLOWERS, - - - . - - 39
BOTANICAL GLOSSARY, - - z : 2 e : 2 2 s - 40-45
PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY OF BOTANICAL NAMES,~ - - - - 4 46-54
USEFUL TABLES, - Z : : = : L 5 2 ; ; : 54
DESCRIPTIONS OF ANNUAL FLOWERS, - - - - = 5 : : 55-98
CLIMBERS, - = = : 2 : : 4 f = 5 - 90-94
EVERLASTINGS, : = = : = : z 2 5 : E A 95-97
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES, - = = : - 5 e : J Z 2 3 98
PERENNIALS, - - - - - - - - - - oO = = QQ-107
GREEN-HOUSE, - = = - - - 2 : = . : : Se 68
BULBS AND PLANTS,
TENDER BULBS AND TUBERS, - - - - - - - - - - 109-115
Borver Prants, . = : e = 2 = : = f 3 2 oG
Harpy PLants AND BuLss,~ - - - - - - - - - - 117-126
HOLLAND BULBS, - - = : - - - “ 2 a : 127-139
HARDY CLIMBERS, - - - - - - - - : - . 140
ROSES AND BEDDING PLANTS, - - - - - - - - - 141
MUSHROOM CULTURE, - - - - - < 2 Z 2 2 - 142

VEGETABLES, - - - - - - - - - = = 143-166

Hescription of {f olorerl Alates.

ANNUALS.

1, Ten-WeEEKs Stock; 2, PHtox DrRumMMonp11; 3, DousLtE Porturaca; 4, BALSAM; 5, NEMOPHILA ;

6, JapAN CockscomB; 7, Pansy; 8, STRIPED PETUNIA.

PERENNIALS.

1, AQUILEGIA; 2, PERENNIAL PkEa; 3, Diciraris, (Fox GLove;) 4, DousLE PINK; 5, PERENNIAL

LARKSPUR; 6, CAMPANULA, (CANTERBURY BELL;) 7,SWEET WILLIAM; 8, PICOTEE; 9, PENTSTEMON.

TENDER BULBS.

1, TRITOMA UVARIA; 2, GLADIOLI; 3, TUBEROSE; 4, Danita; 5, T1GRIDIA.

LILIES.

1, HumsBotprTi1; 2, THUNBERGIANUM CITRINUM; 3, WASHINGTONIANUM; 4, PARVUM; 5, EXCELSUM;

6, THUNBERGIANUM GRANDIFLORUM; 7, LONGIFLORUM; 8, AURATUM; 9, RUBRUM.

HOLLAND BULBS.
_ I, 2, PotvanrHus Narcissus; 3, Narcissus Poreticus; 4, TRumpetT Narcissus; 5, 6, 7, 8, EARLY

Tutirs; 9, Late Turie; 10, Dovsre Yettow Tur; i1, PARRor” PuLtir) oie) ences.

13, SINGLE HyacinTH; 14, SCILLA.

VEGETABLES.
1, WAX OR BuTrerR Beans; 2, PEAS; 3, Pre PLANT; 4, SWEET CoRN; 5, HarHAwAy Tomato; 6,
PureLe-Top Turnip; 7, Cos Lerruce; 8, WATER MELON; 9, CAULIFLOWER; 10, HuBBARD
SQUASH; 11, SUMMER CROOK-NECK SQUASH; 12, FILDERKRAUT CABBAGE; 13, EGG PLANT; 14,
Lone GREEN CucUMBER; 15, 16, Musk MeEtons; 17, CELERY; 18, BELGIAN GREEN-TOP CARROT;
19, Lona Bioop Beet; 20, Turnip BEET; 21, CALIFORNIA RADISH; 22, OLIVE-SHAPED RADISH ;

23, 24, ONIONS; 25, BELL PEPPER; 26, SHORT-HORN CARROT.

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OUR FLOWER FARMS.

Long before offering a seed for sale, we had grown, or attempted to grow, and improved, or
tried to improve, most of our popular flowers, and had also tested many kinds, new and rare,
from all quarters of the world. After resigning the editorial profession, with the exception of
the preparation of matter for our own little works, and engaging largely in the seed business, we
felt that our reputation, as well as the interests of our customers, required that all varieties should
be tested, and as many as possible be grown under our own inspection. With this view we have
been gradually enlarging our grounds until we now have more than a hundred acres, principally
devoted to the culture of flowers for seeds and bulbs. At certain seasons of the year the display
is more grand than any one would be likely to imagine. Half-a-mile of Phloxes, and Pansies,
and Petunias and Lilies, fields of bloom, acres of beauty, are not to be seen everywhere, nor in
all countries. Still, it must be remembered, we grow seeds and bulbs as a business, and not for
effect. Our culture is field culture, with plows and horses and cultivators. Those who expect to
see our flowers in nicely arranged beds, on extensive lawns, will certainly be disappointed. Our
best show of flowers is from the middle of July until the middle of September, and in these
months we shall be happy to have our friends see and enjoy our display. In May, June, and part
of July, we have nothing particularly to interest the public. We know some of our friends have
felt disappointed when visiting us out of season, and hence this caution. We do sometimes make
a grand display of Tulips and Hyacinths in May, but not always, for often our customers do not
leave us a bulb for our own planting.

The Editor of THE ILLUSTRATED CHRISTIAN WEEKLY being in Rochester, saw a little of
our flowers, though quite too early to see them at their best, and was so interested that he sent an
Artist to make sketches for that journal. Mr. WHITNEY certainly did his work admirably, for
we had no idea before that ou places possessed so much beauty. Having procured the engravings,
we take pleasure in presenting the article to our readers.

[From The Illustrated Christian Weekly.]
VICK’S CHLEBRATEHD HLOW HR-FARMS.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. J. WHITNEY.

Until within a few years but few flower-seeds were grown in America for the market, and
these were of the commonest kinds, such as could be produced with little care and skill. Our
seedsmen imported their finest sorts mainly from France and Germany, a few from England, while
Holland supplied not only the bulbs commonly known as Holland bulbs, but most of our lilies.
Mr. JAMES VICK, of Rochester, N. Y., was the pioneer in the systematic growing of flower-seeds,
and he is now without doubt the most extensive grower in America. After pursuing this work
for several years, and meeting with only moderate success, though employing experienced seed-
growers from Europe, he spent a season among the most noted seedsmen of the Old World
studying their methods. He particularly noticed the effects of different climates, attributing
many of his early failures to ignorance on this point. Returning to the work with new energy
and more knowledge, he has made flower-seed growing a grand success.

Stull, all kinds of seeds cannot be grown with profit in any one country. Some sorts are
raised best and cheapest in the moist climate of England or Scotland, others are more easily
perfected in the south of France; while, on account of some peculiarity of soil or climate, or
especial skill and experience, others are only to be obtained in perfection from Germany. To
ascertain what kinds would succeed here, and which of these could be profitably grown, required
time, travel and money, but Mr. Vick is now reaping his reward, and raises many varieties
cheaper than they can be obtained in Europe, and many better, so that seeds of American growth
are sought by the best European florists.

Mr. Vick’s gigantic flower-gardens in the blooming season, July and August, make a grand
display of floral beauty. Here will be found in the season several acres of Verbenas, the same
of Petunias, Pansies, Cockscombs, Zinnias, etc., while Lilies and Gladioli occupy much more
‘space. A score of other things are grown in smaller quantities.

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Many kinds of plants do not perfect their seed in the open ground, and to accommodate these
half-a-dozen or more houses are erected. We give a sketch of some of these houses, and also of
one devoted to the finer kinds of Petunias, known to florists as Petunia grandiflora. ‘This.
variety has very large flowers, often four or five inches in diameter, but produce no seed if planted
in the open ground, and indeed bear none in the house unless supplied with plenty of air and
sheltered from the rains and dews; and even then every flower must be artificially fertilized.
To meet these requirements a roof, partly of glass, is erected on posts, and entirely open at the:

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FERTILIZING SINGLE PETUNIAS WITH POLLEN FROM DOUBLE FLOWERS.

sides and ends. ‘The plants are grown in pots, and every morning each opening flower is fer-
tilized by collecting the pollen on a camel’s-hair pencil and distributing it among the pistils..
This plan is generally, though not always, successful.

The Double Petunia bears no seed, the natural organs of the flower being destroyed in
doubling. Seeds that produce double flowers are obtained in this interesting way: A house is:
filled with fine single-flowering plants, in pots, while another house near by is filled with plants
bearing double flowers. The double flower, while it has no pistils, and but very imperfect
stamens, does occasionally produce a little pollen. The operator picks a basket of double flowers
and takes them to the house containing Single Petunias. He then tears the double flowers in
pieces, searching carefully for pollen, and collecting it with a camel’s-hair brush. Every grain is

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worth more and costs more than its weight in gold. This pollen is transferred to the pistils of the
single flowers, their own stamens being first removed. It is thus easy to understand why some
kinds of flower-seeds are not cheap. Most of this work is done at what is called the Home
Place, consisting of about twenty-five acres, nearly two miles east of the center of the city, on
East Avenue.

Five miles north from Rochester, towards Lake Ontario, and within two miles of its shore,
near a station known as Barnard’s, on the Charlotte branch of the New York Central railroad,
is situated Vick’s Flower-Farm. It consists of sixty-five acres, and possesses much natural
beauty. A deep wooded ravine runs
irregularly through its centre, and through

this winds a little spring-fed stream, which,
near the centre of the farm, widens into

a lakelet of several acres, which empties
itself over a little fall of six or eight feet.
This water is used for the washing of seed,
an operation which the artist has sketched
for us. It is also pumped by a windmill .nto
large elevated tanks, and from these is dis-
tributed through iron pipes over the entire
grounds. And by convenient arrangements
for attaching hose an acre can be watered in
a very short time, so that the plants here are
never allowed to suffer from drought. The
soil is a sandy loam, the timber in the neigh-
borhood mainly chestnut and oak, and here
are grown those plants that flourish best in a
warm soil. Perhaps the largest field devoted
entirely to one kind of flowers, at the time of
our visit, was one filled with Dahlias, and con-
taining six or more acres. It was supposed
to include every variety known of real merit,
and the display was gorgeous. Next in im-
portance, perhaps, were the Asters, of every
form and color, from the little dwarf bouquet,
a mass of flowers six or eight inches in
height, to the great Washington, bearing
flowers four or five inches in diameter on
plants four feet in height. Each color is ‘ EN (
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planted separately, and at distant points, to 3 ~&

‘prevent mixture.
The Phlox Drummondii, a native of ia
America, luxuriates in this light soil, and no
other flower, we think, produces such a
solid unbroken mass of color—an acre of
scarlet, an acre of white, and pink, and so
on through six or seven different varieties,
and as many. colors, without a single mixture of color, or break, or barren spot to mar its
splendor. Several hundred pounds of this seed are grown every year. The seed saved for
distinct colors is gathered from the middle of each acre, and early in the season: the remainder,
though saved separate later in the year, is used only for mixed colors. To make a good “mixture”
it is necessary to grow the colors separate in this way, for if mixed seed is sown those varieties
that seed freely will soon “run out” the weaker kinds. Although many other kinds of seed are
grown in small quantities, the Aster, Phlox, Dahlia, and Tuberose seem to be specialties.
Several convenient houses have been erected for growing the plants which are afterwards
transferred to the open fields, (a view of some of these will be observed,) and scores of frames are

FERTILIZING THE LARGE-FLOWERED PETUNIAS.

used for the same purpose. Airy, well-ventilated drying-houses are necessary for drying, cleaning,
and storing the seed, as well as cellars of immense capacity for storing the bulbs and roots. One
very interesting department is the trial grounds, where everything new or unknown is carelully

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tested. —
Here: we
saw Eu-
ropean novel-
ties of last
spring, and
plants of Cal-
oS ifornia, Australia, and
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while others seemed
quite unworthy of in-
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The city seed-ware-
house of Mr. Vick, where
are stored and prepared
for shipping seeds of all
kinds and of every clime,
is a marvel of business
activity, order, and des-
patch. Thousands of
orders are here filled ev-
: ery day during the busi-
——— ness season, and, so per-
fectly is everything sys-

VIEW FROM THE STAIRS AT SULPHUR SPRING. 5 :
tematized, without hurry

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or confusion. This establishment is one of the most complete in the world, embracing, besides
the ordinary conveniences of the best seed-houses, artists and engravers’ rooms, printing-offices

(English and German,) book-bindery, box-factory, and post-office.

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SKETCH OF ROADWAY ACROSS THE HEAD OF THE LAKELET,

THAT FURNISIIES THE WATER REQUIRED FOR SEED-WASHING, AND WHICH IS ALSO
DISTRIBUTED THROUGH PIPES OVER ALMOST THE ENTIRE FARM,

LE!) ey

THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS is one of the few pleasures that
improves alike the mind and the heart, and makes every true
lover of these beautiful creations of Infinite Love wiser and purer
and nobler. It teaches industry, patience, faith and hope. We
plant and sow in hope, and patiently wait with faith in the rain-
bow promise that harvest shall never fail. It is a pleasure that
brings no pain, a sweet without a snare. True, some fail to realize
their hopes, but these failures are usually partial, never embarrassing,
and are only such as teach us to study more carefully and obey more

strictly nature’s beautiful laws. Thus we gain, first, wisdom, and then

success as the results even of our failures. I have endeavored in a
plain and pleasant way to give some suggestions on the philosophy of
vegetation that I think will prove valuable, revealing the causes of
past failures and insuring future success. Indeed, I have endeavored
in the pages of the FLOWER GARDEN to make the subject so plain as
to render failure next to impossible, and success almost certain.
Experience, however, is the great teacher. The book of nature is open,
but its wonderful beauties and mysteries are revealed only to the careful
student. Every species of plants has peculiarities which must be
studied, and while we can give a few general principles we can furnish nothing that will compen-
sate for the pleasure and profit to be derived from work and study in the garden. Above all
things, we caution our readers against over-confidence. No one has less confidence in his own
skill and knowledge than the experienced gardener. Every season he seeks for new facts; every
year adds to his storeof knowledge. Do not, fora moment, think that the purchase of a few seeds
and the perusal of any work on flower culture will make a florist. The purchase of a drug store
and a medical library will not make a physician, nor does the possession of paints and canvas
constitute an artist. To become skillful in any art requires both study and practice, and this is
especially true where we have to deal with nature’s laws. The study of Agriculture and Horti-
culture has engaged the attention of the wisest from the earliest ages, and yet what wonderful
discoveries and improvements have we witnessed in our own day; and we are still learners.
Let us all profit by the lessons of the past and become every year better prepared for the duties
and responsibilities of life, more fitted to conquer its evils and enjoy its pleasures—learn to
plant more carefully and reap a richer harvest of pleasure and profit.

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SUCCESS IN FLOWER CULTURE.

There is great pleasure in success, while failure causes disappointment and pain. _It would
afford me pleasure to teach every one how to succeed in every case in one short lesson, but this
may not be. A little difficulty in its attainment sweetens success, and of this sweetness cultivators
usually have a full share, for they often have to contend against unfavorable weather, insect
enemies, and a host of adverse circumstances. The most skillful sometimes obtain success at
considerable cost of labor and patience, while failures are more common than welcome. Many
of my readers are of limited experience, some of them just commencing to love and cultivate
flowers, and while a few fail, I feel surprised and gratified at the very general success —a little
proud, perhaps, at having done something to train up an army of successful florists all over our
happy land, the fruits of whose peaceful labor beautify every landscape and perfume every breeze.
I have endeavored to make this interesting subject so plain that all may understand the condi-
tions on which success in floriculture may generally be assured.

SELECTION OF SEEDS.

The selection of seeds is an important matter, and on the wisdom of the choice success or
failure may depend. Those who have little experience should invest money cautiously and in
the more hardy and popular kinds, such as Asters, Balsams, Stocks, Petunias, Zinnia, &c., with a
few of the more tender kinds, just for trial. This advice will sound strange to my old friends
but these will please remember that the wisest knew but little once, and cannot now boast

of excess of knowledge, and that
one-half my readers are young
peopie, with no experience, yet
thirsting for knowledge. Iam anxious
to encourage this noble army by a
= little success rather than to discourage
them by a large failure, for it is an
Vd ; I 4 A army larger and more glorious than
nist wT itl ee any that has ever ravaged the earth
Mi ii a with fire and sword, and Stained its
== a SS fair bosom with blood. My desire
to spread the love of flowers all over
so neater amma this favored land is far greater than
my care to make a few dollars. Half-a-dozen flowering plants, well cultivated, will give
pleasure, while a hundred neglected, or ill cultivated, will be a source of pain.

Always be careful to get seeds suited to the purposes for which they are designed. If a climber
is desired to cover a fence or trellis, the Morning Glory, the climbing Nasturtium, and similar
strong growing vines will answer the purpose and give good satisfaction; while some of the
more tender climbers will not be likely to come up if planted in such a situation as this, and if
they do happen to grow, will not cover the place designed for them, and disappointment
will be the result. If the object is a brilliant, showy bed on the lawn, or in the border, the
Petunia, Phlox Drummondii, Verbena, &c., will meet your wishes; while a bed of Mignonette.
or any of the smaller or less showy flowers, will be entirely out of place. If flowers of taller
growth are desired for a showy bed more in the back-ground, the Zinnia, the French Marigold,
the Gladioli, &c., are admirably adapted for the purpose, while some very beautiful, low, modest
flowers would be worthless. Grave errors are sometimes made, and good flowers condemned
merely because they are out of their proper place. I have known people to sow Calceolaria and
Cineraria, and other very delicate seeds, in the open ground, not knowing that they require the most
careful treatment in the house, and sometimes tax the skill even of the professional florist.

THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION.

The best soil for most flowers, and especially for young plants, and one almost absolutely
uecessary for seed-beds, is a rich, mellow loam, containing so much sand that it will not “ bake”’
after hard showers. If we have not such a soil, we must use the best we have, and advantage must

be taken of the various plans to ensure the germination of seeds, which we shall describe. It is
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also useless to try to grow good flowers on a poor, ora hard, unbroken soil, or in a bed choked with
weeds. In either case the plants become dwarfed, arrive at maturity too early, and flower and
ripen their seeds before they have attained half their natural size, and about the time a good
robust plant would be forming its buds. Such a soil can be much improved by a little sand, or
ashes and manure, and by pretty constant working. It must not, however, be handled when too
wet. Always drain the flower garden so that no water will be on or near the surface.
SOWING SEED.
This is a very important matter, and one in which the young florist is the most likely to
fail. Some old and professional florists make sad work in starting seeds, for knowledge is not
only necessary, but care and attention.
One “ forgot”? may ruin a whole sowing
of the choicest seeds. Of course, there
_ are some kinds of seeds that are robust
=— and will grow, no matter how they are
= = = = treated, just as our weeds grow and thrive
BOX HAND-GLASS. “SQUARE HAND-GLASS. under ill treatment; but others require
kind and proper treatment, just as almost everything desirable does in the animal as well as in the
vegetable kingdom. Many seem to think that seeds will grow anywhere and under any circum-
stances. They have seen the farmer make a hole and throw in the corn, and in a little while it
was up and growing vigorously; they have learned that the seeds of our native trees and weeds
grow without planting and care; and from these facts they get the idea that it is of little conse-
quence how or where seeds are sown, so that they are in the ground. But these should
consider that the seeds used by the farmer are usually larger and produce stronger and more
robust plants than those of the florist, and thus are enabled to bear more hardships and to live
under more unfavorable circumstances.
Still, farmers are fast learning that the
better they prepare the ground, the more
carefully they sow their seed, and the
more they study the nature and wants
of the plants they cultivate, the better
the crops. Another fact should be
remembered — that not one seed in a 3=/
thousand matured by our forest trees ag
and shrubs, produces a living plant. : ;
We cannot afford to purchase costly SEEDS PROTECTED BY GLASS BELLS.
seeds and lose such a large proportion, which would be the result if we should plant in the
same manner. Our weeds are prolific, very tenacious of life, and able to propagate themselves
under the most unfavorable circumstances; otherwise they would not be generally known as
weeds. Most of our troublesome weeds are of foreign origin, the seeds being brought here by
accident. The larger part thus introduced have lived for a season and perished unnoticed, while
the hardiest became naturalized. If the florist would be satisfied with only the most hardy and
prolific flowers, such as would take care of themselves, then he might pursue a careless system
of planting and cultivation, and fill his grounds with Dandelions and Poppies; but he craves
flowers that are not natural to our climate—those that
flourish in warmer climes and under more genial skies —
their dazzling beauty, their delicious fragrance, must be
_ secured at almost any cost of time and labor. This is well;
= but having made up our minds to possess the treasures, we
“must pay the price —we must study their habits and treat
PROTECTED BY POTS. them accordingly. None need feel alarmed at these
remarks, or think themselves incompetent to the charge of such choice plants without hot-beds,
green-houses and professional gardeners. We have known ladies, who, with but little preten-
sions, equaled the most distinguished florists. There seemed to be magic in their fingers, and
everything they touched flourished. It is true that a hot-bed, if properly managed, is of great
aid in effecting the germination of seeds, and it is well all should know why this is so.

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CAUSES OF FAILURE.

In the first place, however, we will examine reasons why seeds often fail to grow. If seeds
are planted /oo deep, they either rot in the damp, cold earth, for the want of warmth necessary to
their germination, or, after their germination, perish before the tender shoots can reach the sun
and air; and thus that which was designed for their nourishment proves their grave.

If the soil is a st?ff clay, it is often too cold at the time the seeds are planted to-effect their
germination ; for it must be understood that warmth and moisture are necessary to the germina-
tion of seeds. Neither of these will do alone. Seeds may be kept in a warm, dry room, in
dry sand or earth, and they will not grow. They may
be placed in damp earth, and kept in a low tempera-
ture, and they will most likely rot, though some seeds
/ Jj==—= Will remain dormant a long time under these circum-
=f y = stances. But place them in moist earth, in a warm

Me = room, and they will commence growth at once. _In-
== deed, if seeds become damp i in a cold store-room they
rot, while if the room is warm they germinate, and
thus become ruined, so that seedsmen have to exer-
cise great care in keeping their seeds well aired and
dry. This accounts for the “ sprouting” or ‘‘ growing”’ of wheat in the sheaf, when the weather
is warm and showery at harvest time, and shows why farmers are so anxious for good harvest
weather, so that they may secure their grain perfectly dry. Another difficulty with a heavy soil
is that it becomes hard on the surface, and this prevents the young plants from “ coming up;”
or, if, during showery weather, they happen to get above the surface, they become locked in, and
make but little advancement, unless the cultivator is careful to keep the crust well broken; and
in doing this the young plants are often destroyed.

If seeds are sown in rough, lumpy ground, a portion will be buried under the clods, and will
never grow; and many that start, not finding a fit soil for their tender roots, will perish.. A few
may escape these difficulties, and flourish.

All of the foregoing cases show good reason for failure, but there is one cause which is not so
apparent. The soil, we will suppose, is well prepared, fine as it can be made, and of that loamy
or sandy character best fitted for small seeds. We will suppose, too, that the seeds were sown
on the surface, with a little earth sifted over them, and that this was not done until the season
was so far advanced as to furnish the warmth necessary to secure vegetation. Under these very
favorable circumstances many seeds will grow; and if the weather is both warm and showery,
very few will fail. But if, as is very common at the season
of the year when we sow our seeds, we have a succession of
cold rain storms, many of the more tender kinds will perish.
A night’s frost will ruin many more. If, however, the
weather should prove warm and without showers, the sur- :
face will become very dry, and the seeds, having so slight SEEDS GROWING IN POTS.

SEEDS PROTECTED BY LATH FRAME.

a covering, will be dried up and perish as soon as they germinate, and before the roots attain |

sufficient size and strength to go down in search of moisture. Of course, the finer and
more delicate seeds, and those natural to a more favorable climate, suffer most.
HOT-BEDS AND COLD-FRAMES.

It is to overcome the evils above suggested that hot-beds are useful. By being protected at
the sides and ends with boards, and covered with glass, they confine the moisture which arises
from the earth, and thus the atmosphere is kept humid and the surface moist, and the plants are
not subjected to changes of temperature, as a uniform state can be maintained no matter what
the weather may be. The bottom heat of the hot-bed warms the soil, and enables the grower to
put in his seed early, and obtain plants of good size before the soil outside is warm enough to
receive the seed. Care, however, is required to prevent scorching the young plants. In
bright days the heat is intense inside the frame, and unless air is freely given, or some
course taken to obstruct the rays of the sun, most likely a great portion of the plants will be
ruined. Some time since, I was called to examine a hot-bed, as the seeds planted did not grow,
when I found they had been all burned up, except a few along the edges that were shaded

ee eee

by the sides and ends of the frame. When the sun gets pretty warm, give the glass a thin coat
of whitewash. This gives a little shade, and, with some air during the middle of bright days,
will make all safe. The Aof-ded is made by forming a pile of horse manure with the straw used
for bedding, or leaves, some three feet in height. Shake all together, so that straw and manure
will be equally mixed. It may be sunk in the ground a foot or eighteen inches, or made on the
surface. On this place about five inches of good mellow soil. Then set the frame and keep it
‘closed until fermentation takes place and the soil is quite warm. It is better to wait a day or
two after this, and then sow the seeds. The principal advantages of a hot-bed can be secured
by what is called a cold-frame. This is simply a hot-bed frame, with sash, as shown in the
engraving, placed upon a bed of fine, mellow earth, in some sheltered place in the garden. By
the exclusion of air and the admission of sun, the earth becomes warm, and the moisture is
confined, as in the hot-bed. After the frame is secured in its
Z piace, a couple of inches of fine earth should be placed inside,
and the frame closed up for a day or two before the seeds are
planted. As the cold-frame depends upon the sun for its
warmth, it must not be started as soon as the hot-bed, and in
this latitude the latter part of Aprilis soon enough. Plants

Reoeet ie tee cot IN MORE: will then be large enough for transplanting to the open ground
as soon as danger from frost is over, and, as a general thing, they will be hardier and better able
‘to endure the shock of transplanting than if grown in a hot-bed. A frame of this kind any one
can manage. Watering occasionally will be necessary; and air must be given on bright, warm
days. Shade also is necessary. These frames, when so small as to be conveniently moved by
the hand, are called hand-glasses. A simple frame or box, with a couple of lights of glass on
the top, will answer a very good purpose, though when small it would be better to have the front
of glass. A very good hand-glass is made of a square frame, with a light of glass at each side
and on the top. These contrivances, though so simple as to be made by any one handy with
‘tools, are exceedingly useful, as they prevent the drying of the surface of the ground, and afford
the plants shelter from sudden changes of the temperature, cold storms and frosty nights. The
engravings show several forms of which they may be made. Seeds may be sown in the house in
pots, &c., but the greatest difficulty is that in pots the soil dries very rapidly, and young plants
are apt to suffer. A very good plan is to cover the pots with glass, as we have shown in the
engraving, removing it occasionally for air, &c. Where very fine seeds are sown in pots, the
watering, unless carefully done, generally results in great injury. A wet paper placed over the
top of the pot will afford moisture enough for the germination of fine seeds. If pots are used
it is well to sink them to the rim in a box of moss, or something of the kind, that will hold
moisture, and prevent the diying of the earth in the pots. A shallow box may be used to
advantage, sowing the seed carefully in narrow drills.

When these conveniences are not to be had, make a bed of light, mellow soil, in a sheltered
situation in the garden; and as soon as the weather becomes settled, and the ground warm, sow
the seeds, covering them with a little fine earth, and if very
small sift it upon them. Some one has given as a rule that
seeds should be covered twice the depth of their own diameter ;
that is, that a seed one-sixteenth of an inch through should be
covered one-eighth of an inch. Perhaps that is as near correct
as any general rule can be. If the weather should prove dry
after sowing, it would be well to cover the beds of very small
seeds with damp moss, or what is better, with evergreen boughs or boards, or something that
will afford partial protection from the sun and wind. A very good plan is to nail lath to a frame,
as shown in the engraving, leaving the open spaces about as wide as the lath. Seeds do not
require light for their germination, and will grow quite as well in the dark as the light until
they are above ground. __Bell-glasses are convenient both for in-doors or garden use, only care
must be given to afford plenty of air, especially on bright days, and shading may be necessary.
An inverted flower pot answers almost as good a purpose, but when the young plants are up
they will need light, which can be afforded for a few days, and until the plants are large, by
elevating the pot, as shown in the engraving. Light and air should be furnished as soon as the
plants are above ground, or they will become weak and pale. Of course, it is designed that

SEEDS IN A BOX.

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plants from the hot-bed, cold-frame and seed-bed shall be transplanted to the border or beds where
they are to flower, and these helps are intended mainly for Zender and Half Hardy Annuals, .
described in an article on the Classification of Flowers, on another:page. he Hardy Annuals
may be sown where they are to flower, though, with the exception of a few varieties difficult to.
transplant, it is best to sow all in a seed-bed.

All seeds of hardy and half-hardy Annuals, and Perennials, and, in fact, nearly all flower
seeds, can be sown in the South in the autumn. ‘The plants are thus enabled to make vigorous
growth in the early spring, and become well matured before the heat of summer. ‘The Perennials
should be sown so early as to make a fair growth before winter sets in. Then they will flower
the next summer. The Hardy Annuals generally do best sown rather late, so that the seed will.
remain in the ground and be ready to start at the first approach of spring.

TRANSPLANTING.

All the operations of the garden should be done with neatness: no crooked, irregular rows
are admissible. The engraving shows how easily lines are marked in a bed with a rod or ruler.
After plants in the seed-beds have obtained their second leaves and made an inch or two of
growth, they should be removed to the garden beds or border. This should be done on a dull,
showery day, if possible, if not, the plants may require shading after removal until they become
established. In transplanting in dry weather, always give the plants as they stand in the seed-

=I bed a good soaking with water, and also the soil
—
Y= =i
’ = —

to which they are to be removed, an hour or so
before removal. In removing, disturb the roots.
as little as possible. If the plants are not too
thick, there is no need of injuring the roots; and
in sowing, it is well to have this in view, and
sow evenly and thinly. As soon as the young
| plants come up, if too thick, a portion should be
|, removed. A few plants, with long tap-roots,
| will not bear removal well. The Larkspurs are
‘difficult: and these and the Poppies, and plants.
MARKING FOR PLANTING. with like roots, should be sown where they are
to flower. Still, there are few plants but can be removed when young, with proper care. Sweet
Peas, Candytuft, and a few flowers of similar character, that do best if sown as early as the
ground can be got ready, should always be sown where they are to flower.
DISAPPOINTED CULTIVATORS.

Many years of experience and careful estimates have convinced me that while nearly all
of my customers succeed in growing excellent flowers from the seeds they receive, and are
not only satisfied, but enthusiastic over the results, some two or three per cent. totally fail,
or fail to such an extent as to feel quite dissatisfied with the expenditure and labor of the
season. To this small number I cannot give much space, but will make a few remarks that may
be profitable, and prevent disappointment in the future.

Some are disappointed because flowers do not prove

what they expected. It should be remembered that I
do not agree that flowers shall meet the expectations of Joe ee 1 an ee
any person. The first thing is to ascertain what it is x
right to expect. Not the notion of any person, but the
descriptions I have given must be the standard. The
descriptions and drawings are not exaggerated, yet they
represent plants and flowers that have been well grown : Gaese==—=— § ———
neglected, half-starved plants will present a very different Hull length’ portent Nee eee aaa
appearance. Any specimen of the animal as well-as the \oman’s husband. The man who thinks.
vegetable kingdom will become dwarfed and deformed, and _ it nonsense for wife and girls to make
lose every trace of beauty by ill-treatment and neglect. flower beds.
Then the descriptions must be well understood. If I call some little, delicate flower, like a
Lobelia, a fine variety, you have a right to expect it to be a fine Lobelia; but have no right to-
expect it to be as large, fine and showy as an Aster, a Ten-Weeks’ Stock, or a Zinnia, or any
10

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other of our large, brilliant flowers. It is fine in its place, but not fine for a display in the

garden. A pen-knife is good for the purpose for which it was designed, but it is not exactly
fitted for wood-chopping. I advertise double Zinnias, double Stocks, &c.; but you have no right
to complain and think you are cheated if one-fourth should come single, but should pull up the
single ones as fast as they show their character, and enjoy
the good instead of mourning over the bad. Many varie-
ties of double flowers do not give seed, so we have to
obtain double seed by fertilizing the single flowers with the

pollen of the double, and by other slow and difficult pro-
cesses known to the experienced seed-grower. These

operations are usually only partially successful, and, as a
necessary consequence, some of the seed will give single
flowers; and yet intelligent men, and correspondents of the
press, and officers of Agricultural societies, and others who
ought to know better, often scold, and write complainingly
because seed purchased as double produced single flowers.
Again, I advertise separate colors of Phlox Drummondii,
Pere he ahs women’s hus. Dianthus, Asters, &c. Occasionally, with some of these,
band, who makes wifeandchildrenhappy you will find a little mixture of color. This, with some
and home pleasant. things, can not be avoided, even with the greatest care.
gS, ’ g
There always has been, and always will be, a little uncertainty in growing flowers from seed.
They are prone to mix and “sport.” If it were not for this disposition, we could never obtain
new varieties. When plants or trees are grown from cuttings, or are produced by budding or
grafting, all mixture is the result of carelessness, s
accident or fraud. This is not the case with plants
produced from seed. While many varieties will come
almost or quite true from seed, with good care, others
are far less reliable in this respect. All I can prom-
ise is that I have done all that human care and skill
can do to produce distinct colors, and when there is
very much uncertainty in regard to color I advertise
them only as “mixed colors.” For this reason I
advertise only “ mixed colors” of many varieties.
Occasionally we hear complaint that seeds do not
grow —perhaps one or two varieties failed out of a —=
hundred, and the cultivator is like the shepherd in The woman whose flower seeds never come up
the Scriptures, who left the ninety-nine in the wilder- _ Uess they are scratched up.
ness and went in search of the lost one. This was well for the shepherd and the sheep, but is
not a good plan for florists and flower seeds. If you have ten or twenty varieties, and all
grow nicely but one or two, just enjoy the success, instead of making yourself miserable over
failures. The best and most skillful gardeners will
a \ fail occasionally, and neither the seed nor the gar-
dener be very much to blame. Every professional
ggrdener knows this. There is a wonder—a mys-
tery —in vegetable as well as in animal life. Our

—

ys = friends fail, droop and die—our little ones pass away
(SS — just as they are taking deep root in our hearts. We

| =
; feel the deathly pangs, but cannot save. But the
variety that failed was the one of all you most
desired. Of course, what we cannot have we always
want the most. The fish that escapes from the hook
is always the largest.
ie ean whose flower seeds all come up. But, if you fail to any great extent, make up your
mind there is trouble somewhere — some mismanagement — and resolve to find it out, if possi-
ble. Don’t jump at the conclusion that the seed was bad, because it is not true, and thousands
will praise the seed you condemn as bad. By concluding that you are all right and the seed all
if

wrong, you will not only lose the seed, but the benefit of experience. It will not help the
matter to say that seeds of your own growing came up in the same beds, unless you had just the ~
same varieties. As a general rule, the finer the varieties of flowers the less vitality in the seeds.
One may grow almost anywhere and anyhow, another require the most favorable circumstances
for its germination. This is particularly the case with most double flowers, even of the same
species or variety. A single Aster will give more seed than a hundred of double, and the seed
will be larger, and produce earlier, stronger plants, and will grow under unfavorable circum-
stances, where the seed from the double flower would decay. Hence, if there happen to be
three seeds from asingle plant in a package, and all should grow, these three plants would produce
flowers before any others, and those not acquainted with the facts would say at once, “all my
Asters are going to be single.” If, through a bad season or soil, all the Aster seed from the
double flowers had died, and only the more robust from the single flower lived, of course, the
complaint is, ‘‘I had only three plants from a package of seeds, and that was plenty, for they
were very poor flowers.’”’ A beautiful flower is often obtained at the sacrifice of the vigor, and
not unfrequently the constitution, of the plant. After laboring long and anxiously to secure
some desired improvement, it is not uncommon, just as success seemed about to crown our
labors, to find all our hopes blasted on account of some defect in the plant—a grand flower
secured and a healthful plant ruined.
a

THE LAWN AND GARDEN.

Man may be refined and happy rates a panda he may even have a home, I suppose,
without a tree, or shrub, or flower; yet, when the Creator wished to prepare a proper home for
man, pure in all his tastes and made in His own likeness, He planted a garden and placed this
noblest specimen of creative power in it to dress and to keepit. A few suggestions on the
Improving of Grounds and the Adornment of Rural Homes may be useful, and prevent a great
many expensive and troublesome mistakes.

MAKING LAWNS AND WALKS.

In the first place, the space in front of the house, and generally the sides exposed to view
from the street, should be in grass. No arrangement
of beds, or borders of box, or anything else, will
look so neat and tasteful as a well kept piece of
lawn. It can also be kept in better order at less cost
= than in any other way. Mixed beds of flowers or of
shrubbery in the most conspicuous part of the garden
are always unsatisfactory. Get a good plat of grass,
and dry, neat walks, and all other things will soon

WALK STAKED OUT. follow with but little trouble.

The very first thing needed in improving ground is to obtain good drainage. Have good
drains made to carry off all waste water from the house and surplus water from the soil. These
can be made of stone, laid in any way that will leave an open and secure space for the water to
pass through, though where drain tile can be obtained they are as good as anything and
usually cheaper. The drains should be from two to four feet deep. Have the work well
done, for this is the foundation of all improvement, and a
the correction of any failure is made only with a good deal
of trouble and expense. This secures a dry soil at all seasons
of the year, and a healthy growth of plants or trees.

The next thing is to prepare the soil and make the
walks. Make no more roads than are absolutely neces-
sary, as many walks divide the lawn and greatly disfigure
it. Of course, there must be a bold walk to the front door,
and one passing from this to the rear of the house, and in
general no more will be necessary. These must be PLANTING FOR CURVED WALKS.
made in the most convenient places—in those one would naturally take in going from one
place to another. The curved line is the line of beauty, yet we often see attempts at curved

walks where a straight one would be much better. Every curve should be a sensible one; that
is, have a reason for its course; therefore arrange your planting so as to make an apparent
necessity for every turn. The idea is shown in the little sketch accompanying, where the walks
curve to accommodate the trees.
If the ground to be improved is only a small lot, it can be done best by the spade, and it is
not well to endeavor to do it with the plow. In
Tm Ll . that case, mark out the walks first. Do this by
[4 setting up little sticks on the line you design for
the road, as shown in the engraving, changing
_them until you get just the curve that seems graceful
= and pleasant to the eye. Put a row of sticks on
cach side of the road, measuring carefully so as to
get the width uniform. Another plan for securing

aaa ae the desired curve to walks is the use of a stout line.
The idea is shown in the engraving. Next, remove the earth from the walk to about the depth
of eighteen inches, using it to fill up any low places. The walks, of course, have somewhat

the appearance of ditches. The operator is now prepared to pulverize the soil with the spade.
Have it done thoroughly, sending the spade well down, and completely inverting the soil, but
leaving about six inches on each side of the walk undisturbed for the present, so as not to break
the line of the road. All stones found in digging should be thrown into the roads, and often
sufficient will be obtained to fill within six or eight inches of the surface; if not, enough can be
procured usually without much difficulty. The stone cutter’s yards and the stone piles in the roads
and fields generally furnish abundant material. When the walks are filled with this rough
material to within six inches of the surface of the soil, the ground being raked off nice and
smooth, dig the six inches left undug on the edges of the walks, being careful to keep the edges
true and as originally staked out, and then set a turf about six inches wide for a border to the
walk, as shown in the engraving, keeping the turf as
low as the level of the adjoining soil, or a little
lower, and to do this, remove two or three inches of
the soil where the turf is to set, according to its
thickness.

A good deal of this rough work can be done in
the autumn, so as to leave only the finishing up in
the spring; but if commenced in the spring, it should WALKS WITH TURF EDGING.
be hurried up so as to get the grass sown as early as possible, for grass seed will not start well
unless it has the benefit of spring showers. Lawn Grass sown about the first of September,
so as to have the benefit of autumn rains, will usually make a fine growth before frost, and be in
excellent condition in the early spring, almost appearing like an old lawn by July. All being
done as previously advised, sow the grass seed on the well prepared surface, raking it in, and if
pretty dry, it is well to roll the soil after sowing. Sow Blue Grass, or a preparation of the most
desirable grasses for lawns, sold as Lawn Grass, at the rate of four bushels to the acre. In our
Lawn Grass we always put a little Sweet Vernal Grass, on account of its delightful fragrance.
If you use Blue Grass, get a little Vernal and use with it, a pound or two to the acre. Most
persons also like a pound of White Clover to the
acre. If the grass is sown early in the spring and
=the weather is at all favorable, by the first of July
the lawn will look pretty green, and from the
~middle to the last of July will need cutting, and
Te eiON Ob. WALI. after that must be cut as often as the little lawn
mower can get a bite. These lawn mowers are a real blessing, for not one in ten thousand
can cut a lawn properly with a scythe, and therefore our lawns, before the introduction of
mowers, always looked wretched.

It will be strange if a great army of weeds do not appear with the grass, but do not take it for
granted that these weeds came from the grass seed sown, because if you had not sown any grass
the weeds would have been just as abundant. The farmer who finds the weeds among his corn

eas E moe

PARK SCENERY.
and potatoes never imagines that he planted them with the seed. As soon as the grass and weeds
get high enough to be cut with a scythe or lawn mower, cut close and evenly, and repeat this
as often as possible, and the weeds wlll gradually disappear, but if allowed to grow they will

soon smother the grass and ruin the lawn. A few perennial weeds, like docks, thistles and

: Fall L
AL a

HOME LAWN.

dandelions may be removed by cutting the roots as far down as possible with some narrow,

sharp implement. Two or three such cuttings will generally destroy them, but a pinch of salt

after cutting will make the work sure.
After sowing the grass, finish the walks by covering the rough stones with five or six

inches of gravel, as clean as can be procured. It is best to leave the finishing of the walks
14

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OBE Nn Bien Se eee rat QAY ee,

until the last, because, even after sowing the grass seed, at raking it in, a quantity of stones will be
gathered, and you will need a place to put them and the walk will need the stones. A section

of the road when
done will appear as
shown in the engrav-
ing, and it will be al-
ways dry and free
from weeds and grass.
If the earth should
wash from the lawn
and cause weeds to ;
start, sow salt along
the edges and you
will see no weeds for
a season.

In very small places
it would, perhaps, be
as cheap to sod the
whole, instead of sow-
ing grassseed. Where

this is desirable, good
turf can be procured from the roadside or pasture, and it should be well and neatly laid.

In large places the plow can be used instead of the spade, and with great economy of labor.
In that case the whole lot should be well plowed and dragged before the walks are staked
out. After this, stake the walks and remove the earth the necessary depth, using it to level off
the low places. There will always be a good deal of work for the spade and rake.

PLANTING AND ORNAMENTING THE LAWN.

Two great errors are usually made, both by gardeners and amateurs; one destroying the lawn
by cutting it up with unnecessary walks and flower beds, the other producing the same result by
almost literally covering it with trees and shrubbery. Grass cannot grow well among the roots
and under the shadow of trees and shrubs, and no lawn can look well cut up in sections by
numerous roads. Most of the little lawns we see in this country are almost entirely destroyed by

EicnoRN.s¢ = ==

ENGLISH PARK, QUEEN VICTORIA’S HOME, OSBORNE HOUSE.

FORMS OF BEDS.

one or both of these causes. The main part of the lawn should be left unbroken by any tree or
shrub, as a general rule, with only an occasional fine specimen, like a Purple Beech, or Magnolia,
or cut-leaved Birch. The shrubbery should be in clumps or groups, in proper places, and so
thick as to cover all the ground. The soil under them should be kept cultivated and clean like a
flower bed. Trees in appropriate places for shade and beauty, are, of course, desirable; but
plant for the future, not for the present, and always have in view the size and form and habits of
the trees when full grown, and not their present small size, and, perhaps, delicate form.
ne Tree planting must be governed by the extent of the
grounds. In a lawn em- Pees
bracing many acres, forest
trees, or trees of large size, E
—— = may be admitted; and then = :
RIBBON BED. it will partake somewhat of RIBBON BED.
the character of European parks, the nature of which we have endeavored to show in the engraving.
These are not given the same care and expense as small lawns; indeed, the grass is often

kept short by sheep, and seldom mown. That portion of the lawn of such parks immediately
15

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x eee ae se
es BOCs = ns oboe

PERENNIAL GARDEN.

around the house, however, is always planted with the
most beautiful trees and kept in the best possible condition,
just in the manner necessary for small lawns, which are
most common in this country. We have endeavored to
illustrate these two styles by the aid of engravings, and hope to have
made the subject plain.

The great difficulty with American gardens is that they are too large,
and not sufficiently cared for. If we gave the same amount of labor on a
quarter of an acre that we now expend on an acre, the result would be much
more satisfactory. No one should have more ground in garden than he
can keep in the very highest state of cultivation. It is this kind of

excellence that affords pleasure, while failure or partial success is a source of
pain. It is not only a fault to cultivate too much ground, but even too many flowers. Some
seem anxious to obtain and grow everything. This is not best, especially where there is not a
good deal of time and money to be devoted to the work. A choice selection is best, and I like
every cultivator of flowers to have a pet or hobby. Take, for instance, the Pansy, and make it a
pet. Obtain the choicest seed, and give the plants the best of care, and you will see to what
wonderful perfection it can be grown. Ina few years you will tire, perhaps, of this. Then
adopt the Balsam, or Stock, or Aster. Always have something choice — something grown better
than any one else is growing it—something you have reason to be proud of. It will astonish you
to see how flowers thrive under such petting, and what a wonderful exhibition they make of
their gratitude.

Some persons may think from what we have said in favor of grass in front of the house in
preference to beds of flowers, that we are no friend to these beautiful treasures—these delightful
children of the field and garden, who speak to us in every fragrant breath and lovely tint and
graceful form, of Him who spake from naught this matchless beauty. We only wish them to be
treatedin a proper manner. In the center of the lawn, especially if opposite a window, it is well
to make a round or oval bed, and on the border or near the edges of the lawn, beds of various
simple forms. A few plans for these we have given.

hl ZF —.
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Zy3' Cen <> ra ~S iia

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BULB GARDEN.

Zs,

These beds should be filled with flowers that will keep in bloom during the whole season,
and it is best generally to have but one kind ina bed. Phlox Drummondii, Verbena, Portulaca,
and the scarlet Geraniums, are well adapted for this purpose, and occasionally it is well to
introduce the ribbon style. The plan is to set plants of the same height and color in a row,
several rows forming the bed, and giving it the appearance of the stripes in ribbons, as shown
in the engravings p. 15. To make a bed of this kind select flowers of similar height and
habit. Of course, if one row loses its flowers the effect is spoiled. If a circular bed is made,
the rows toward the center may be taller than the outside rows. A very cheap and pretty
ribbon bed can be made by using the different colors of the same flower, like Phlox Drum-
mondii, and for a beginner we know of no flower as good. These beds, it must be remembered,
are for the adornment of the grounds, and they furnish no flowers for the house—no presents for
friends, no bouquet for the dining room, or for schools or churches, or the sick room. These we
must have. So, just back of the lawn, make generous beds of flowers that you can cut freely—
Asters, Balsams, Zinnias, Stocks, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, &c. In these beds you can also
grow the Everlasting Flowers for winter use, and the plants designed for winter flowering in the
house. It is best to make such beds oblong, about four or five feet in width, so that one can
reach half way across, with alleys or paths between.

THE BULB AND PERENNIAL GROUNDS.

There is aiso asameness about lawn beds that in time becomes tiresome. They are beautiful,
but it is unchanging beauty; a bed of beauty, but no plant has character or beauty of its own,
each one contributing its share, and sacrificing itself, for the general good. Often, a little tired,
we turn from the well kept lawn, with its masses of bright colors, to the beds of Perennials and
the Bulb Garden, and there we find each plant in its own character, standing alone, and doing
its best to secure our admiration. Every day there seems to be a new development: some plant
that we obtained long ago, and for whose blossoms we have been waiting and watching, shows
buds, and in a day or two flowers; and another, almost forgotten, to our surprise we find in

aly

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SAE, Qn Yr _. 2 ? sii we

233 = ree <
pe Tiscesaaid x Se

SUMMER-HOUSE GARDEN SCENE.
flower. In our Perennial Beds we have many old friends, the Hollyhock, the Sweet William,
the Canterbury Bell, and a host of others, while the Bulb Garden is made glorious by the Lilies,
Pzeonies, Gladioli and Dahlias, and a score of elegant flowers that have been known and loved
for ages. The flowers of this class do not keep in bloom a long time, and therefore are not suited
for the lawn, where a continuous show of flowers is absolutely necessary ; but in a position a
little retired, like the border of the lawn, or in its rear, nothing can be more interesting, more

beautiful, or more instructive.
GARDEN ADORNMENTS.

There are a good many things that may be called garden adornments, or garden furniture,
some of them expensive, while others are obtained with the exercise of a little skill and taste.
A neat Conservatory gives dignity and somewhat of an
aristocratic air to any garden, if in good condition, or
what gardeners call, “kept up;’’ otherwise it gives
the whole an air of shabby gentility that is painful to
behold. Next to the Conservatory, we may class the
Summer-house, and this may cost but little; indeed,
more depends upon the situation, tastefulness of design,
and neatness of construction, than size and cost.

Of all the adornments of the lawn, nothing is
more effective than a well filled and well kept vase.
Of course it is better to have one of a graceful form ;
but almost anything will look well if adorned with
healthy, and particularly, drooping plants. It is not of
much importance what the plants are if they are only
vigorous. All the ornamental-leaved plants are appro-
priate for the top or center of the vase, while a few
drooping plants should be placed near the edges and
, allowed to droop at least half way to the ground. For
<®: this purpose the Verbena or the Petunia will answer ;
- indeed, fewer plants appear better than a good strong
Petunia. The evaporation from vases is very great,
much more than is generally supposed, as every side is
exposed to air and sun, and they must receive a
copious supply of water every evening to keep the plants in good condition.

ie oe ee

Wy) i

an UH ‘ai WW
NW WE t Ser : Y)} I

ROCKERY TO SCREEN AN ABRUPT BANK.

Another very pretty ornament for the garden is the Rockery, made of rough stones, taste-
fully laid up, with earth sufficient for the growth of plants suitable for this work. Low growing
plants with succulent and ornamental foliage are appropriate to the rockery — Portulaca is
admirable. I would like my readers who have had no experience in this kind of garden
ornamentation to try a specimen in some retired quarter of the garden, so that if it proves a
failure no harm will be done. There is nothing
at l= j More interesting than a good rockery, and
MUN Sel 22) 2) ii = nothing more unsightly than a poor one. To

mo). be good it must be somewhat natural in appear-
ance and have an appropriate position, and be
furnished with suitable and healthy plants. A
pile of stones thrown together in the center of
of a lawn looks bad enough, and it would be
hardiy possible to remedy the evil of location
by any skill in planting; but a little rockery in
some retired corner gives variety and beauty to
the garden scene.

Few things pleased us more when in Europe
| than the skill exhibited in giving an air of
rural taste to small city lots, many of them so
very small that few Americans would be
willing to attempt ornamental gardening on so
diminutive a scale. And yet, if we can make
a parlor or sitting-room beautiful in winter
with a few plants, why can we not make a
: smali paradise of a little twenty-foot-square
oan = re a2 — é ‘front yard?” Many of the yards we refer to
ei oy en ah DW were not more than twenty feet in width, and
amg LAN ne yet remarkable as specimens of taste. Some
hee. IAS | of these little gardens were attached to houses
i | in rows; others belonged to what are known
as semi-detached cottages—that is, two only
; SSE joined together.

BALCONY GARDEN. entrance courts. The lots are sometimes so
narrow that the raised bed is made several feet from the center to allow of free passage on one
side. The English people seem to love seclusion, and so the front yard is usually bounded by a
wall on every side, as we have, in a measure, shown in the engraving, and would be fearfully
unsightly but for the fact that these walls are ornamented, and sometimes concealed with climbers
and other beautiful plants. The ornamental border that surrounds the central bed is usually
19

y) CEE
WALES. i By a
SS d Wi aes

ee Lory ZZ ow

EU aire VRP

of neat designs.
Occasionally a
vase is used
for the center;
and we have
seen a. . little
rockery occupy
the place, but it
| is not the place
' for a_rockery.
The ‘space - not
occupied by
beds is covered
with flagging or
gravel. Some-
times the side
walls, and even

LNERANCE COURT. the front garden
wall furnish support for rockeries, which then take the place of the borders shown in the engraving.
We introduce this illustration for the encouragement of those dwellers in our cities and villages
who have not yet learned how much can be made of little.

BALCONY GARDENS.
Those who have noticed the advance of rural taste in America during the past thirty years.
have seen developments unequaled in any
country, in any age of the world. Beautiful

Me = rut) S
orchards and lawns, and gardens, and tasteful > 2
houses abound, where, a few years ago, we saw a =
the crooked rail fence, the trees and stumps nn
and small log cabins. We scarcely pass through
a village in any part of the country, but we
see some place so nicely arranged, so beautiful,
and possessing some feature so entirely new,
that we are tempted to take out our pencil and
make a sketch on the spot.

We have to thank the architects in Roch-
ester for planning houses with shady recesses
over the front doors, ‘which afford opportunity
for the most elegant adornment, and which our
people have not been slow to improve. We W7/| [ ie
were so pleased with this feature, that we had i ly, i
drawings taken of two which presented exhi- eat F eee
bitions of rural beauty that gave more pleasure ae
to their owners and to the thousands who
passed by, than would thousands of dollars
expended in architectural display. With plenty
of water, plants can be kept in such situations
through the summer in perfect health.

In the selection of plants for such places
more regard must be had to elegant foliage
than beautiful flowers; but it is absolutely
necessary to obtain those that will keep in

\
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ql Wit

perfection a long time, whether chosen for BALCONY GARDEN.
foliage or flowers. Plants that rapidly attain their best estate, ripen and pass away, may be
20

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i OS) ae ae

Win
Sw.i97; TA Ss ee irae SE". Fre

interesting and useful in appropriate places, and generally furnish flowers abundantly for cutting,
but should not be planted in vases or baskets, nor on the lawn, where a good show must be kept

up the whole season.
WINDOW BOXES.

To those who are not fortunate enough to have balconies, we propose to show how easily ana

cheaply they may provide a substitute. A common box, the length of the window, about eight
inches deep and ten inches wide,

can be fastened on the outside of
the window by means of brackets,
either iron or wood. ‘This may be
painted, or, what is still better,
covered with oil cloth. Get some
‘ small, set figure, and you have an
imitation of a tile box at very little
cost, In: |Burope, these, boxes

WENO eo boxes are to be seen in thousands
of windows, and many of them both elegant and expensive, some. made of iron and covered
with costly tiles. The one we propose is almost as beautiful, and ridiculously cheap.

PLANTS FOR BALCONIES, WINDOW BOXES, AND BEDDING.

PLANTS FOR BALCONIES.—Among plants most useful for balconies we suggest the following:
Abutilons, Achyranthus, Begonias, Coleus, Clematis, Convolvulus, Canary-bird Vine, Draczenas,
Geraniums (double and single), German Ivy, Honeysuckles (Halleana, and golden-veined),
Lobelias, Moneywort, Nepeta (Ground Ivy), Othonna, Tropzeolums, Veronica and Vinca.

PLANTS FOR WINDow Boxrs.—Geraniums, Lobelias, Vinca variegata, Sweet Alyssum,
Othonna, Ivy Geraniums, Convolvulus Mauritanicus, Thunbergias, Tropzeolum, Maurandya,
Calampelis scabra, and German Ivies.

A great variety of plants is not needed for Lawn Beds, indeed the number of suitable plants
is not large. What we require is a strong show of color like that furnished by the scarlet
Geraniums, or a mass of foliage of a tropical appearance, like that supplied by the Canna, Cala-
dium, &c., or a bed of the more delicate, variegated and ornamental foliage, for which purpose
the Coleus and variegated Geranium are adapted. For the different purposes mentioned, in
addition to the Annuals already named, and grown from seed, we name a few of the best:

DwarRF PLANTS FOR EDGINGS OR BORDERS OF BEpDs.—Alternanthera, Armeria or Thrift,
and Pyrethrum aureum,

WHITE LEAVED PLANTS.—Glaucium, Centaurea and Cineraria maritima.

SHOWY-COLORED FoLIAGE.—Achyranthus, Coleus, and Bronze and Silver-leaf Geraniums.

SCARLET GERANIUMS.—Gen. Grant and Queen of the West.

TALL FOLIAGE PLANTS.—Caladium esculentum, three to four feet in height, leaves more than
two feet in length. Cannas, from three to five feet in height; a variety called Robusta, from five
to eight feet. Ricinus (Castor Oil Bean), from six to twelve feet.

BED OF TALL FOLIAGE PLANTS.—For a bed of tall Foliage Plants we would advise some-
thing like the following: Ricinus or Cannas in the center. If the center is Ricinus they may
be surrounded with a circle of Cannas. The next circle should be Caladiums, with an outside
border of Coleus or Centaureas. The Ricinus will grow from seed as easily as Corn. Good
bulbs must be planted beth of the Caladiums and Cannas. Young plants of Coleus, Centaurea,
&c., are grown by most florists for the purpose of bedding, and are obtained at very little cost.

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THE WINTER GARDEN.

To make home cheerful during the long winter of the North, there is nothing that can
compare with flowering plants. They are a constant, ever-developing delight. Each day brings
new leaves and buds and blossoms, and new forms of loveliness, and we look and wonder and
——————————— = == admire. Withhouse plants,

———— =

——— : = as with all other things, suc-

ae ee ( 0 === cess is essential to enjoyment.

aes Ci eee
oy ; a _ having p

| possible the work of our own
skill — grown from seeds or
cuttings or trained by our
own hands. We shall en-
deavor to give a few sugges-
tions that we hope will be
| useful; and make the road to

success somewhat easy. We
AMI| do not propose to instruct
ili| those who have greenhouses

A =p gl i) and gardeners, as we have
Hl: a SUT Tl cet th ot ees

AAA | i TAA i NA elt that our mission was a

| i ; if — Ce IMA AIL score ‘hunt Stee ee

think, amore glorious one—
==5 to create a love of flowers
among the millions.
Thousands of persons purchase vigorous, beautiful plants from the green-houses every year,
and are pained to see them gradually and surely lose all trace of beauty, and finally droop and die.
How can we prevent this? Plants, like ourselves, need air, light, warmth, food and drink, and

i TTI i

these in proper euiaw
quantities, or BSS
they will suffer
and finally die.

he ereat
desideratum in
window plants
is, that they give
us either flowers
or foliage during
the long winter
months. ‘This |.
we can secure |
only by careful
attention to a
few necessary
details. First of
all, plants in
proper condition
must be ob- :
tained. We =

(—————_/

must not expect a=

those that have * aera

given us of their bounty all summer to continue flowering through the winter. A season of rest

is absolutely necessary to almost all plants. Preparation for winter should begin as early as June.
22

MI
{| pe Z

All's

Even earlier than this, seed of Chinese Primrose and Cineraria should be sown. Plants for
winter flowering should be kept in pots all summer, or plants in a proper state must be procured
from some florist in the early fall. All buds
should be taken from plants designed for winter
flowering until about the middle of August. After
that they may be allowed to grow that we may
have early winter flowers. The later the buds
are pinched off in the summer, the later will the
WZ plants be in coming into flower in the winter.
: iain ail i! This is especially the case with Carnations, Chry-
7 a i santhemums, Bouvardias, Heliotropes, and simi-
iA | lar plants. Plants should be brought into the
I house and placed in position before the winter
aa, fires are made, that they may become “ wonted”’
to their in-door life.
Hrat.—Most of our plants are injured by
i too much heat. For a general collection of
house plants, it is not best to allow the thermom-
eter to be above seventy, and if they could be
kept in a room where the thermometer would
) usually not range much above sixty-five it would
be the better. In the night time fifty is high
~ enough. Give a little fresh air every fine day,
* and all the sunlight attainable. An effort should.
be made to give moisture to the atmosphere, for
our own good as well as the health of the plants. This can be done in various ways by evapo-
rating water; but when plants are in a separate apartment, like a little green-house, it can be
done more conveniently and effectually, although this separate apartment be only a bay window, '
with glass doors, separating it from the living room. In this place water can be used freely,
by syringing, &c., and a moist atmosphere oe The temperature, with this arrangement,
can be kept lower than <
would be comfortable in the &
living room, and the plants £ ==
are es tee dust and = a
many evils which we man- jill : : ,
age to endure and live, but jfl/ (7a i 7 Wie pu ye ee Tl
which generally prove too jij
much for the plants.

AIR AND LIGHT. — Ev-
ery one knows that a plant
grown in the dark is weak
and colorless; and if it has |
plenty of light and little |
air, while it will have the |
natural color, it will be
slender and sickly. The jj — ne aT =
gardener, therefore, is care- =imuuullianh — a nn ON ll HU Tie <
ful to give his green-houses Ir, =,
and hot-beds not only light,
but air at every convenient |
opportunity. In winter, he :
hails a bright, sunny day with delight. Plants will suffer from a current of cold air just
as their owner would, but both are benefited by an invigorating breath of fresh air. Provide,
therefore, for air in some way, especially on pleasant days, and every day, unless the weather is
too cold — when the mercury registers within 10 deg. of zero. This can be done by opening

=|
=

a window as far from the plants as possible. When too cold, a door or window in an adjoining
room can be opened. Care should be taken, however, that no direct draft blows upon the tender
plants, for nothing is worse than cold drafts for both plants and persons. ‘The cracks around
the sash and casing should be effectually closed. This can be done very neatly by pasting narrow
strips of paper over them. A storm-sash or double window is the surest protection against frost,
and next to this is a paper curtain between the plants and the window.

THE SOIL AND WATER.

The soil used in potting should be neither too sandy, as it will dry out too quickly; nor too
heavy, for this holds the water too long, and is apt to become soggy. A mixture of sand, leaf-

suit almost all kinds of room plants.
I would recommend the use of finely
powdered charcoal in the bottom of
the pots, not so much to secure good
drainage as to correct ascidity in the
soil occasioned by over-watering. A
moderate use of stimulants will be
found very beneficial to growing plants,
but they should not be used on such
as are partially or wholly dormant.
i] Bone-dust, guano, and special ammo-
iii niated preparations are the most con-
ij venient, especially for city residents.
To those who have the facilities for
making liquid barn-yard manure, I
would say, use that in preference to

| any other.
The subject of watering is one that
cannot be too carefully studied. How
: hi N | and when to water must be learned by
60 Zs EN BAG Ze | experience. General directions only

| TA TH i mould and common garden loam will
it

ie.

eSs= 7 \ SSS SS
Gi “As >

i
F |
PATNA Al NeLE
| oa WNT UAH can be given. First of all, invariably

—— use warm water. Water only when
the soil becomes dry, and apply
enough to wet the whole body of earth
in the pot. Water sparingly rather
than too often. Plants die more easily
from drowning than from thirst.

CLEANLINESS is as necessary to the health of plants as to animals, and it is, therefore, neces-
sary to secure them from dust as much as possible, and also to cleanse the plants frequently by
syringing or washing. Even here a little caution is necessary, for while the smooth-leaved
plants, like Ivies, are benefited, not only by showering, but even by washing the leaves with
a cloth or sponge, the rough-leaved plants, like the Begonia Rex, do not like to have the
surface of their leaves frequently moistened, and should be cleaned with a soft brush. It
would, therefore, be well to remove such plants before syringing. Take every precau-
tion, however, to prevent the accumulation of dust upon the plants; and above all endeavor
to screen them from that terrible infliction, carpet-sweeping. It may be well enough to kill the
old people by compelling them to breathe clouds of dust, but send the children into the fresh
air to skate, or to snow-ball, and spare the plants, if possible. The essentials of success in
plant culture are suitable soil, air, light, moderate and regular heat, a moist atmosphere, regular
and moderate watering, and freedom from dust and foul gas.

We have given a few illustrations of Window Gardens, all taken from photographs sent us by
our amateur friends, and we think they will show that success is within the reach of all, and
under almost any conceivable circumstances.

— >

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= —--

THE CONSERVATORY.
The Winter Garden proper, or Conservatory, is a delightful spot in which
- to spend an hour occasionally during the cold storms of winter—a little
Eden of our own making —a tropical summer brought to our own doors.
All who can afford the expense, we think, should enjoy this luxury. It costs
something, to be sure, but the money is not wasted. The making of the
building gives employment to those who need it, very likely; the purchase
of plants encourages the florist to continue the culture of these beautiful
objects. Money spent in luxuries that are elevating and refining is well spent. The florist who
grows plants for sale finds that the demand is greatest for small specimens. He therefore crowds
every possible space with plants so as to secure as great a return as possible. Amateurs, how-
ever, who erect conservatories for pleasure make a great mistake when they imitate the florist in
this respect. Private conservatories are made for pleasure, and should be arranged somewhat in
the manner of a garden, with a few large and beautiful plants, and broad walks, where the pro-
prietor and his family can lounge away an hour pleasantly, in a measure free from care.

What a blessing a rich man would be to a neighborhood, if he were to build such a conser-
vatory as we have described, and say to his neighbors and their children that it was constructed
partly for their pleasure, and that, at certain times, say two or three days in a week, all were
invited to call and enjoy its pleasures at their convenience. Something of this kind is by no
means uncommon in Europe, and we have often had the pleasure of uniting with the public in
visiting the private, yet magnificent, grounds and houses of many gentlemen, both in England and
on the Continent. The idea that the people will injure or destroy plants or flowers is entirely
fallacious. Tens of thousands of people, on some days, visit the Kensington gardens and
conservatories, yet nothing is harmed. Indeed, if we wished to give an object lesson on good
manners, we would point to the gardens where the masses of the people congregate. The
American people need education on this point. We have given in the engraving something
of an idea of what we think an amateur conservatory should be.

opm <n ome

WARDIAN CASES AND FERNERIES.

Some plants will not endure the atmosphere of our living rooms, such as the Ferns, and like

plants, that are found growing naturally in shady places in the woods and groves, and on the

cool banks of brooks. For the purpose of growing these successfully the Wardian Case or

Fernery is necessary. These are simply glass cases, that exclude outside air and dust, while, of

— course, the air inside is confined and hu-
i ag

na mid. Here ferns, and other delicate plants,

1 uA Healt

will grow and flourish with a luxuriousness
unknown to plants cultivated in the open
air, or subjected to the dust and drafts of
} our parlors. The soil should be light and
gi porous, composed of leaf-mould with a
little sand. To fill them properly put a
layer of broken charcoal, an inch and a
half in depth, in the pan which is found ©
at the bottom of the fernery, and upon that
place the soil. When setting the plants,
give a good supply of water to settle the
soil, but not enough to make it soggy: the earth should absorb it all.
Place the glass over them, and for the first few days watch the case

iio uiee ie stag closely. If any of the plants show signs of moulding, raise the glass.
and let part of the moisture escape. In regard to ventilation no stated directions can be given.
A few Ferns and Lycopods will live in an air-tight case, yet even these will do fully as well if a
little air is admitted. We would advise an airing once a week. The glass should not be left off
too long —fifteen minutes will be enough. Ferns, Mosses, Begonias, Gesnerias, Peperomias,
Marantas and Draczenas, can be used to good advantage. Many plants from the woods do nicely,.
such as Partridge Vine, Hepaticas and Trailing Arbutus. With a little experience and care
these cases will make an ornament worthy of a place in any parlor.

FERNERY.

PLANTS FOR HOUSE CULTURE.

In giving a list of plants for house culture we name a few varieties only, and such as we

know to be of easy culture, of real merit, and that will please the lovers of flowers.
FOR TEMPERATURE BY DAY 65°, AND 45° BY NIGHT.

foliage Plants. — Dracznas, Euonymous, Farfugium, Begonias (Rex type), Rubber Tree,
Abutilon Thompsonii, Palms, Hard Ferns, Vinca variegata.

Climbers. — Solanum Jasminoides, Ivies, Coboea scandens, Pilogyne suavis, Maurandya,.
Lygodium, Hoya or Wax Plant, Passion Vine.

Bulbs. — Hyacinths, Tulips (Duc Van Thol), Crocus, Narcissus, Cyclamen, Oxalis.

flowering Plants. — Abutilons, Jasminum grandiflorum, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Carnations,,.
Primulas, Libonia, Cupheas, Camellias, Azalias, Violets, Roses, Othonna crassifolia, Oleanders,.
Chrysanthemums, Callas.

Of the above, Geraniums, Camellias, the Holland Bulbs, Primroses, Violets, Chrysanthemums.
and Carnations, will do best kept quite cool.

FOR TEMPERATURE OF 75° TO 80° BY DAY, AND 60° BY NIGHT.

Begonias, Bouvardias, Cissus, Crotons, Heliotropes, Marantas, Tropzeolum, Salvias, Poin-

settias, Smilax.

p 3 a ¥
TAQ” Pelee aN x
oe EN CE Ra ays Wes ( —
Rreiietia I) See 2 2Oe) Ni BY i Ge ae a SA as

INSECT ENEMIES TO HOUSE PLANTS.

The cultivators of house plants have an army of enemies, small, to be sure, but numerous
and active. Fortunately, they are not very brave, but like to attack the weak, and soon become
discouraged when they meet with vigorous opposition. Indeed, they seem to know where they
have a chance of victory and seldom attack plants that are well watched and cared for.

THE GREEN-FLY.

The “ green-fly”’ every plant-raiser knows, and he knows, too, to his sorrow, how destructive
it is if left to itself. The plants which this insect attacks are the softest and most succulent,
and at the ends of the young shoots, and the softest leaves. It sucks the
juices so as materially to injure the plant in a short time. The insects of this
kind (Aph7zs) increase with such wonderful rapidity that REAUMUR has proved
that in five generations one aphis may be the progenitor of six thousand
millions, and there may be ten generations in a year.

GREEN-FLY (APHIS) The insect inflicts the mjury by means of a long rostrum or beak through

a ee which it sucks out the juices—the rostrum, when not in use, les inflected
beneath the breast. Their bodies, at the hinder extremity, are furnished with two little promi-
nent or knotty openings, from which exude almost continually little drops of a sweet or honey-
like fluid. As they take in great quantities of sap, they would soon become gorged if they did
not get rid of the superabundant fluid. The leaves and bark of plants much infested by these
insects are often completely sprinkled over with drops of this sticky fluid, which, on drying,
becomes dark colored and greatly disfigures the foliage.

Of all the means that have been employed for the destruction of this insect, that which
has proved most efficient and the one now almost universally practiced, is fumigation with
tobacco. Some plants, such as Heliotropes, Salvias, Lantanas, and some others with soft, downy
foliage, will not bear ordinary fumigations without injury to the leaves, and these plants, there-
fore, should not be subjected to it. Many plants in full flower, but especially Pelargoniums, will
throw off their expanded blooms after smoking, and therefore it is best to remove such plants before
fumigating: Care should be used also to have the foliage of all the plants dry, for if they are
wet or damp, the smoke will be apt to injure such as are of a soft texture. If the plants are in
a conservatory attached to the house, the time chosen for fumi-
gating should be a still evening when there is little or no wind
stirring, and the temperature of the house should be pretty well
up, as then the insects are more active and the smoke will more
easily affect them. A few chips or a little charcoal may be placed
upon a small furnace or a pan and ignited, and then a small quan-
tity of tobacco placed upon it—the tobacco should have been
previously dampened so as to prevent its burning too rapidly or

blazing.

When only a plant or two, or a small number of them are to be
treated, they can be fumigated under an inverted barrel or large
box in a back room or shed. Single plants may be fumigated by
making a bell of a newspaper, as shown in the engraving. The
smoke can be introduced by means of a tobacco-pipe. Fill the
bowl two- thirds full of quick-burning tobacco, and after ee

through the stem, with the mouth. Instead lok fumigation, a oie
solution of Popes may sometimes be used quite as effectively ; this is often the more convenient
way for a few plants. Soak or steep some tobacco in water until the strength is extracted. The
strength of the water may be determined by dipping a leaf into it or letting it remain in it for a
short time — if the leaf is browned or burned, or turns so when taken out of the water, the solu-
tion is too strong, and must be reduced by increasing the quantity of water. When the right
degree of strength is acquired, dip the whole plant into the water and afterwards syringe it off
with clean water. What we desire to impress most forcibly on the minds of our readers, and
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especially those who keep only a small number of plants in the living-room, is the better way, of
watching them so closely and syringing and washing them so frequently that the fly is kept under
and the plants maintained in the highest state of health.

THRIPS.

This is an exceedingly active little insect, and seems to leap rather than fly. The engraving
shows a thrip of natural size, 7g. 7, and the same insect magnified, fg. 2. These insects are
extremely small, and have long, slender bodies, with very narrow wings which are fringed with
fine hair. They live on leaves, flowers, in buds, and even in the crevices of the bark of plants,
but are so small that they readily escape notice, the largest being not more than one-tenth of an
inch in length. The color of the insect varies from a whitish yellow to a dark brown. It
attacks the extremities of young shoots and tender leaves, which become
brown and shriveled, and will crumble to dust when rubbed between the
thumb and finger.

The same means that have been recommended for the destruction of the
“« preen-fly”’ serve for this little pest also, but it does not succumb so readily
—the fumigation must be more frequently and persistently practiced. As we
have said in reference to the “ green-fly,” so with this insect; it may be prevented to a great
extent from multiplying, by syringing and frequently washing the leaves of the plants.

If a vinery should be seriously attacked with thrips, wait until all the foliage and fruit are
taken off the vines; then remove all kinds of plants that have green leaves into other houses,
and shut up the vinery close and fill it with the fumes of sulphur.

RED SPIDER.

The RED SPIDER (Acarus tellarius), is a troublesome little insect, and one which, if allowed
to run unchecked, would speedily bring devastation and total ruin to the plants of the house or
conservatory; but it is no doubt designed for some beneficial purpose. We can more clearly see
the compensating good from its attacks than in the case of most other plant-preyers. If it were
not for the wholesome fear which it continually inspires, gardeners and other plant-growers
would probably very frequently maintain an atmosphere so dry as materially to injure or destroy
their plants. If you catch a glimpse of a red spider you may be sure that the atithosphere of
your plant-room has been kept too dry —if it is your living-room, it has also been too dry for
the health of the human occupants. It will be seen by the engraving that the insect is very
minute, as shown by the little dot @; the same, highly magnified, appears at
6. The body is of a blood-red color, and the feet a light red.

A plant upon which this insect has taken up his abode, in a short time
shows some leaves turning yellow, indicating premature decay — when they are
numerous they work webs on the under side of the leaves, and sometimes all
over it, until the plant becomes a mass of half dead and decayed leaves. RED SPIDER (ACAR-

Water is fatal to the red spider, and as before remarked; withan atmosphere °° Ggerues!
of proper humidity this insect would never get a foot-hold. When once firmly established upon
the plants, the speediest way to destroy them is by the fumes of sulphur. This remedy, however,
must be used with much caution, as the free use of it will cause most plants to shed their leaves.

Fortunately, but little of it is required; and in the green-houses it has been found sufficient
to mix a little flour of sulphur with water, or with milk, which is said to be better, and to paint
or smear with it a small surface of the heating pipes or the flue; a very little of it in the atmos-
phere proves sufficient for the destruction of the insect. In the case of a few house-plants, we
think that sponging of the leaves on both sides, and syringing the plants so that the water is
thrown on the under as well as upper sides of the leaves, will be effectual without recourse to
sulphur.

THRIP,

SCALE INSECT.

The Coccus, or SCALE INSECT, is a common pest on some kinds of plants —the Orange, the
Myrtle, the Camellia, the Oleander, and many other hard-wooded plants are apt to be infested
by them. There are many species of Coccus, varying slightly from each other. One kind of
plants is the home of one variety, and another sort devotes its attention exclusively to some other
kind. The Grape, the Pear, the Elm, and almost every kind of our cultivated and forest trees
has its special representative of this class of insects. In the engraving the insect of natural size

is shown, a, when magnified, the upper side, 4, represents a shield, and the legs are only seen
when it is turned on its back, c.

The remedy in this case is by washing the plant by hand and forcing the insect off with the
thumb or finger-nail; or take a small, stiff brush and soap-suds, and
we brush the plant until it is thoroughly clean. The name of the
\ species that infests the Myrtle, Orange, Oleander, &c., is Coccus Hes-
s|}peridum. A London friend writes that a little alcohol, applied with a
camel hair brush, such as is used in painting with water colors, will
kill any insect it touches.

The MEALY Buc (Coccus Adonidum), is similar to the previously

COCCUS, OR SCALE INSECT.

mentioned insect, except that it is cov- Mg) IE ae ee
ered with a white, mealy or downy Lede Zo BT yp,
substance. Both of them insert their Wed OT fh fy Yl ;
7 Mire Me gD
beaks into the bark or leaves, and draw OS ——— ae ok Mis LULZ

from the cellular substance the sap that
nourishes them. A weak mixture of
whale-oil soap and water in the propor-
tion of one pound of soap to five gal-
lons of water, will be found destructive to them. With a few plants, only, we would recom-
mend the use of a soft brush and water, and in this way they can be readily removed.

OLEANDER LEAF WITH SCALE INSECT.

COLD PITS.

There are some plants that are unable to bear a Northern winter, yet can endure a good deal
of what looks like hard treatment. For instance, they can be taken up from the garden in the
autumn, and placed in a tolerably light and
dry cellar and in the spring are ready for
transplanting again to the garden. There
are, however, but few cellars fit to preserve
plants during the winter, and in these only
= the most enduring and long-suffering are
safe. What is known to gardeners as the
CoLp Pir is only an out-door cellar, ex-
pressly made for the preservation of plants.
In such pits many of the more hardy
green-house plants may be successfully win-
tered. The following list, including, perhaps, those plants which amateurs would be most
likely to possess, may be wintered perfectly in a cold pit:—Abutilon, Bouvardia, Camellia,
Carnation, Cestrum, Crape Myrtle, Erica, Wes oor Ah
Fuchsia, Geraniums, Hydrangea, Lantana; i iil

FIG. 1.

Laurestinus, Laurus, Oleander, Pittosporum,
Pomegranate, Roses of all kinds, Tritoma -
uvaria, Yucca, and many others of like nature.
Soft-wooded plants, like Verbenas and Helio- |
tropes, are apt to mildew.

A pit (fig. 1) for the purpose described
should be situated in as sheltered a position
as possible, and have thorough drainage. It ‘
may be not more than four feet deep, and be
reached from the top or outside when the sash
is removed; or it may be from six to eight
feet in depth, with several shelves, like fig. 2,
and of a size to suit the number of plants to
be kept. If built on the side of the house it may adjoin the cellar, and have an entrance into
it through the cellar wall; but as dampness is the great enemy of such a place, this trouble may

FIG. 2.

be obviated by building a double or hollow brick wall. When it is not convenient to build a stone
or brick wall, or where lumber is cheap or easily to be obtained, the walls may be built by taking
pieces of two-by-four studding and nailing to them on each side rough boards, so as to form a
double wall of boards with an air chamber (fig. 3.) These may then be
slipped into their places at the sides and ends of the pit and fastened
together. The front wall should not rise over. six inches above the sur-
face of the ground, and the rear wall only enough higher to give the sash
sufficient slope to carry off the water easily. The back side can be banked
up with earth within a few inches of the upper edge. A pit of small
size may be made not more than six feet in width and six, nine or twelve
feet in length, and it may then be covered with common hot-bed sash,
which are usually made about three feet by six feet. Of course it can be
made as large as desired, even so large as to require a span roof, which
may be made stationary or with moveable sash, at one’s option. In stormy

PAG 3: weather it is necessary to furnish better protection than that afforded by the
glass, and this is secured usually by heavy straw matting, and it is well to have narrow board
shutters that can be handled easily, to cover the glass, and over these the matting is placed.
The two will secure exemption from frost in
the worst possible weather.

The straw mats, which we have referred
to for covering the pit, are also very useful
articles for the gardener in shading his forcing
frames or protecting them from the cold in
nights of early spring. These mats are easily
made and one can employ his time upon them
in very cold or stormy weather, when nothing
can be done to advantage outside. In order
to make a good article and to work to best advantage it is best to employ a frame, such as shown
in fig. 4. This frame may be made of two pieces of two-by-four stuff for the sides, of the length
required for the mat, and of two transverse pieces morticed into them at the ends. Four feet
will be found a very convenient width for the frame. This frame work can rest upon a pair of
wooden horses, about two feet in height, in which position the labor can be most easily performed.
In the engraving we have shown only two strings, but a mat of four feet width should have at
least four strings, which will make the spaces between them about nine and one-half inches in
width; closer tying than this even would be preferable. Screws are inserted
at the proper distances on the cross pieces, to which the strings are attached.
The straw is placed on the strings so as to have all the butts or lower ends
come against the sides of the frame, with the tops meeting in the middle,
and so thin as to have the mat not more than three-quarters of an inch in
thickness when finished. The stitches should not be more than three-fourths
= of an inch in width. The tieing string should be wound on a reel, and

FIG. 5. there should be one of them for each stationary string. The method of tie-
ing is shown in the illustration, fig. 5. Take a little of the straw with the left hand and work
the reel with the right, first over the straw and then under the stationary string, bringing it back
between the two strings, pulling tightly and pressing the straw so as to have a flat stitch. In this
way the work is continued until the mat is finished. During the daytime, except when the
weather is very severe, the matting and shutters should be removed and the plants exposed to the
full light, and, when the temperature will admit of it, —as it often will at mid-day, even in some
of the more Northern States, —the sash should be removed partially to allow the moisture to
evaporate, and thus secure the plants from mildew, which is the result of dampness in a low
temperature. Great care should be exercised about giving the plants any water, as it is desirable
to keep them as nearly as possible in a state of rest, and, if it were not for the ventilation, the
moisture in the pit would be quite sufficient. Pits in different localities will vary considerably in
this respect, some being much drier than others. Such pits may also be used for germinating seeds,
striking cuttings, and rearing young plants in the spring and summer, with proper ventilation.

FIG 4,

Be
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Y

Wi je
aor Ee

FLORAL DECORATIONS.

There are times in all our lives when the heart is joyous, and its rapturous throbs make the
eyes sparkle with delight, and wreath the face with smiles. We delight to give expression to
this joy in kind acts and pleasant words, in adorning our homes with garlands and flowers, in
presenting our loved ones with bouquets and other marks of regard. The “* Merry Christmas ”’
and the ‘‘ Happy New Year,’ CHARLEY’s return from school, the baby’s birthday, and sister’s
wedding, must all be honored, and how so innocently, so tastefully, so sweetly as with garlands
of flowers? Then the church and school room must be trimmed, and mottoes be made, by
fingers which know nothing of the painter’s art, and that have not fashioned a Roman capital
since they printed letters to little friends, long, long ago. We will endeavor to show how it is
done, with the aid of a few illustrations, and hope to make the subject so plain that all may
understand, and with a little practice become expert in the art of Floral Decoration.

FORMING LETTERS.

The forming of letters neatly and rapidly is no mean accomplishment, and those who possess
this art are almost invaluable at all festive gatherings. How beautiful the word “ WELCOME,” on
some occasions; and “* PEACE ON EARTH,” will be new and glorious every Christmas. These
letters are usually made of dry or Everlasting Flowers and dry moss, cedar or other evergreens.

G_ VC Obtain heavy straw board at the book or paper stores, as

ag | vy shown in Figure 1, and mark out the letters with a pencil,
= / Determine the height you wish the letters, and divide that
= Z _| into six equal parts by drawing lines entirely Across the
V | board, as shown in Figure 2.__ Four of these divisions will
GZ, be a good proportion for the width YYYyy Yay Gy,

¢ of most letters, as seen by the 777
, same figure. The few letters that
vary from this can be correctly Yi
made by the following arrange- YY //7

I one inch wide. _ By this arrangement letters of any size can be made by simply dividing the
height iuto six sections, and using four such sections for the ordinary width of the letters, varying
the width to suit the other letters, as already shown, and always making the letters one section
thickness. (See engraving, No. 2.) Letters made by this rule look rather thin, but when covered
with flowers or evergreens they are just what is wanted. The letters being cut from the straw-

j wersge, board with a sharp knife or strong shears, are
ready to be covered. This can be done by tying
with dark thread, small branches of evergreens
over the face of the board, with a few Everlasting
. Flowers or- bright berries to relieve the sombre
ys color. Better letters, however, can be made with

“i figure 3. Tie the moss over the face of the letter
as evenly as possible, then cut the stems of the
flowers short, leaving only about half an inch. Dip the stem in a little paste, and insert it in the
moss, and when dry it will remain secure. We have made very pretty letters by covering the
board with Gomphrenas, or Immortelles, fastened to it with thick paste. Crosses, or any desired
form, can be made in the same way as letters.

MAKING FLORAL DESIGNS.
Flowers are arranged in many beautiful forms, suitable to almost every occasion. In the
hands of the skillful florist they are made to speak words of hope to sorrowing hearts, and sing
songs of joy in the hour of gladness. | These Floral designs can be ordered of any professional

; WS 4
FE a PS ITNT ArT ar

florist, but there are many of our readers, who, from location or circumstances, are not able to
employ such aid. There are also occasions when a present of a floral ornament, the work of the
donor, would be prized very highly, when the same procured from another would neither be

appropriate nor pleasant. We therefore think a few hints on the making of floral designs from
fresh flowers will not be unacceptable.

The engravings show three of the most common designs, wreath, crown and cross; next to
these, the anchor is most frequently used. The outline engravings show the forms made of wire,
and the lower engravings the designs finished. These wire forms can be obtained at very little
cost, of nearly all florists and wire-workers; a full set costs but, very little, and can be
used scores of times. These wire frames are filled with damp moss, well packed in, and
secured at certain points with light twine or thread, if necessary, to keep the moss in
place. Obtain a package of the common wooden tooth-picks, sharpened at both ends,
and divide them in the middle ; cut the stems of the flowers short and fasten them to these
picks with a fine wire or thread, as shown in the engraving. Of course, these little
wooden spikes can be easily made, but they cost comparatively nothing. Insert these
picks in the moss, which will keep the flower in just the position desired. Foliage
may be treated in the same manner. A little taste, experience and patience will soon
enable any one to make these designs in a rapid and artistic manner; It is well to get a few of
the most common designs and keep on hand, so as to be in readiness for any occasion.

FOR THE CHURCH.

All church decoration should be neat and simple. It is better to have too little than too much.
The church should not be made to resemble a vast conservatory nor an evergreen bower, but
should appear like a church tastefully decorated in honor of Him whose temple it is. The
wreaths should not be large and heavy, as this gives a gloomy appearance, but light and airy,
and a few flowers or bright berries have an enlivening effect, especially if the evergreens are
dark, as our arborvitees and hemlocks are in winter.

Most ladies, we presume, understand the making of wreaths. Procure strong cord, and
fasten both ends to some stationary objects. Then, having the evergreens cut into small
branches, fasten them to the main cord by winding with a smaller twine, working in the flowers
at the same time. Crosses, and other designs can be made of straw-board and covered as
previously described; or if any object very large is required, the design can be cut from boards.
Letters covered with rice are very pretty among dark evergreens.

| Be —— a Gs AZ
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2 . as i FASE ; Ley SP, ER NA OS Us Zz OR im
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Nteadl a DEUS om: creme mae bALP

FOR THE HOUSE.
Decorations for the house require to be much lighter than for church or any large building.

A simple light wreath attached to the cornice has a very pleasant appearance, even if nothing
more is done, but a little trimming around the windows and doors add but little to the labor, and

CEILING FESTOONED.

gives a completeness to the work that more than compensates for any extra trouble. The
engraving shows a portion of a room pretty elaborately trimmed, and yet all the work is light, and
the effect would be pleasing. _If the ceiling is not too low, a few wreaths or festoons suspended
from the cornice and looped up in the center, somewhat as shown in the first engraving, is desir-
able for full decoration. The gas fixtures should also receive a little attention.

! {
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PARLOR TRIMMED.

In countries where the Ivy grows wild it is used freely for decorative purposes, and being an
evergreen it can be obtained at all seasons. In America it does not succeed so well, but still can
often be obtained, as it flourishes abundantly in the house with even half a chance, making a
most rapid growth. Its leaves are so beautiful and contrast so finely with our common ever-
greens that a little Ivy should be procured, if possible, and used where it will produce the most

o¢
33

effect.

Tie

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decoration.

light in appear-
ance, of such a |
clear,
green, that for
trimming dresses

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climbing vine,»

PICTURE TRIMMED WITH Ivy.

yard.

Ngrowing to a

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glossy | :

‘ms PERN

In many sections of our country the Laurel grows abundantly, and we are always
pleased to obtain a package from our friends about Holiday time.

nt leaves, are unsurpassed, even by the Ivy, for winter
Smilax excels
acquainted with for tasteful trimming.

Its broad, green

everything we are
It is so

great length, and |

florists by the

FOR... THE -TABLE.

can be bought of 2

1)
RD) {Il
I if. Hi \}
in

= —— ——- =

WINDOW CURTAIN DECORATED.

It succeeds very well in the house, and may be grown either from the bulbs or seeds.

The subject of Floral Decoration for the table is attracting a good deal of attention, and in
Europe prizes are awarded at many of the Horticultural exhibitions for the most highly orna-

mented dining table.

We have seen many such on exhibition, and our objection to many of

them has been that the floral ornaments obstructed the view, so that persons sitting on one side

of the table could scarcely see their friends on the other, much less converse with them.

TABLE WITH FLORAL DECORATIONS.

accompanying plan obviates this objection in a great measure.
and very light, so as to obstruct the view as little as possible.

filled with water, in which small flowers are arranged.

These

ttl
Hye

The
The tall ornaments are of glass,
The low margin is glass troughs
glass troughs are made straight,

and half and quarter circles, so that combined they can be made to assume any form desired,
even ietters and monograms, for which purposes we have seen them used on festal occasions.
Sometimes the central ornaments are omitted, and these flower borders surround and ornament

the Thanksgiving Turkey.

BOUQUET MAKING.

Arranging flowers loosely and prettily and naturally in vases and other ornamental receptacles
for flowers, is a very easy work, requiring only good taste and some knowledge of the harmony
of colors. As a rule ladies do this work well, and need no suggestions from us. The filling of
baskets is a little more difficult, because more
formal or artificial. First, line the basket with
, tin foil, or scatter a little Lycopodium or other
= green material, to form a kind of green lining,
- and over this put a lining of strong paper. If

the basket is not so open as to show the lining,
a simple lining of paper will be enough. ‘Then fill the
basket with damp saw-dust, rounding it off at the top and
covering with damp moss, inserting the stems of the flow-
ers in the moss. If the natural stems are not suitable for
this work the flowers can be “stemmed,” that is, fastened to sticks, as
recommended for floral designs. It is well to give an edging or border
mainly of green. Very few flowers have stems suitable for nice bouquet
work, so it is the custom to “ stem” all flowers, that is, give them artificial
stems, and the material used for this purpose is broom brush or wire, to iM
which the flowers are attached with spool cotton or fine wire. These stiff
stems can be made to hold the flowers in any position desired. Tokeep |
the flowers from crowding each other, and also to supply moisture, it is N
usual to wind damp moss around the stem of the flower at its connection with the
artificial stem. The central flower, which is usually the largest, must have a stiff, straight stem,
as seen in the engraving, for this really forms the back bone of the bouquet, as well as the handle.
Fasten the stems of all flowers around this central flower, as in the small engraving of a bouquet,
as it would appear divided near the middle, showing the
way the flowers are fastened to the main stem, as well as
the manner in which they are kept from crowding each
other. After the flowers are all properly attached, and
the bouquet formed, cut off the handle to the desired
Ve metihe and
cover this with
tin foil, or wind
with ribbon,
leaving a loop,
so. that ) the
; bouquet may be
suspended if desired. | Ornamental papers, prepared for the purpose, are very pretty, and can be
obtained at a small price of most florists. | These cover the handle and bottom of the bouquet,
and also usually make a quite ornamental border. Our remarks are, of course, designed for
hand bouquets, but larger bouquets are made in the same manner, except that they are more
pyramidal in form.

Jus

SECTION OF HAND BOUQUET. BOUQUET PAPER.

BOUQUET AND TRIMMING GREEN.
In this section of the country, and in many others, the Cedars and Hemlocks are the most
easily obtained, and are generally used to furnish the green foi decorative purposes in the winter.
There are, however, two
little plants (Lycopodiums )
one known as the Ground
“ Pine, and the other the
Running Pine, and they are
the prettiest things we know anything about for winter trimming, excepting, of course, Smilax,
which is not to be had in large quantities. These Lycopodiums grow in partially shaded woods,
in hilly places, and usually on a poor, sandy soil. |The Ground Pine is used in winter for bou-

WY
~~ Ka ES,

quet making, and is called Bouquet Green. ee are both kept by florists, and sold at about
$5.00 a barrel. In smaller quantities the Ground Pine is sold at 25 cents a pound, and the
Running Pine in packages of ten yards for 50 cents. We give engravings
showing the appearance of each kind, the first one being the Running Pine,
and its adaptation to light festoon
work will be readily understood.
The Lycopodiums seem to delight
in high hills and cold situations.

We have advised the use of a
few bright berries wherever they
can be obtained, for lighting up
the somite evergreens used for winter decoration. In
England the Holly furnishes the most brilliant scarlet,
and the Mistletoe the purest white. In many sections
of America the American Holly, //ex opfaca, leaves
nothing to be desired in the way of a scarlet berry,
while in others the Winter Berry, J/ex vertictllata, ENGLISH HOLLY.

illuminates moist places until late in the winter.
Another Holly, lex Jevigata, known as the
Smooth Winter Berry, abounds in the West,
we believe. We have a good many other berry-
bearing plants that furnish the most elegant
berries in the world, but unfortunately they are
usually destroyed by frosts and storms before
Holiday time; but some of them may be pre-
served in a cool, damp cellar, the stems being
placed in water. Among them we would name
the Strawberry Shrub, Mountain Ash, Snow
; Berry and Bitter Sweet, all of which are elegant,
WINTER BERRY, (ILEX VERTICILLATA.) but the Strawberry Shrub produces, we sometimes
think, the most beautiful berry in the world. At the time we write this, November 22d, the
Euonymus Shrubs are ablaze with beauty.
BUTTON-HOLE FLOWERS.

It is not loug ago, at least it does not seem long to us, when any gentleman who wore a
flower in the button-hole of his coat, or any lady who adorned hair or dress with a few flowers,
would be thought vain,
silly, foppish, etc. We
well remember, some
years since, when spend-
ing a day or two with
some English friends
between Port Hope and
Rice Lake, once when
2), we were in the carriage, g
2/2. just ready to start on an dee y
excursion, the gentle- s& q
man hastily jumped from Z
the carriage, requesting Ze
the driver to wait a min-
ute, as he had forgotten
the button-hole flowers.
He soon returned from

BUT ON Mere Ey Uae the garden with flowers BUTTON-HOLE FLOWER.
for all, which soon adorned coats and dresses. It seemed very strange for an old gentleman
to act so, and yet it was very thoughtful and pretty. Flowers are now worn on all festive

occasions, even in this country, and nowhere are they more prized.

_—— [oy ere
SSS ps NOTE: y
oe STER ae Z AS Uk | AS pe4 —
See Sor BK. in =

In the first place, there is the Sutton-hole Bouguet, proper, which is composed of a few very
fine flowers tastefully arranged, as shown in our engraving. This must not be confounded with
the Button-hole Flower, which is simply a single flower, like a rose-bud, or a Tuberose, with some
pretty, sweet-scented leaf for a back-ground, which we have also attempted to illustrate. Both are
good. No leaves are more desirable for this purpose than the sweet-scented Geraniums, and we give
figures of the best kinds. Plants of either of these can
be obtained at 30
cents each, and one
or two plants will fur-
nish all the leaves
that will be needed.

It will be seen that
the button-hole fow. &&=
er is merely attached a
to the stem of the cat es ay\.
by a thread or string. A,
This is designed to be
inserted in the little
Bouquet Holder, |
which is filled with APPLE.
water and attached to coat, dress or hair by the pin. In this way the flowers will keep
fresh for a day or two. The button-hole bouquet is arranged differently. The stems of the
flowers are covered with a little damp moss or cotton, the whole being surrounded with tin-foil,
and fastened to the coat or dress with a common pin.
Of course, the holder may be used ye either, or both
may be arranged for
tin-foil. The Bou-
quet Holder is of glass,
of any color desired,
and costs, by mail, 20
cents each.

The Balm and Ap-
ple-leaved Geraniums,
particularly the latter,
are great favorites
with every one, and
are useful for many or-
namental purposes.
The very beautiful cut foliage of the Roseand Dr., Livingston Geraniums are sufficiently attractive
in form alone to insure general popularity, but when added to this is their delicate and delightful
fragrance, we know we shall be pardoned for urging every
one who cultivates flowers to secure at least one of these &
plants. They grow easily fromslips, and do nicely in the ~
house, and when once secured, there will be no necessity
for again purchasing during a life-time, for in the early
autumn slips can be taken off, and potted for winter use in the house, and in the early spring
slips can be potted, and in three or four weeks they will be sufficiently rooted to transfer to the
open ground.

ROSE.

DR. LIVINGSTON.

BOUQUET HOLDER.

Dip a. 2
ah ae i \ até Za. \ Ne My a Ks
ue vas el eer

yy, Sy | , SR
aN he eN

WATER GARDENING.

We have not heretofore spoken of a species of gardening that, perhaps, will be new to many
of our readers, WATER GARDENING. We ali love to wander along the streams in the summer
time, and gather the wild flowers that
adorn their banks, yet few may have
thought of cultivating those cold water
plants in the low meadow near the woods,
or in the shallow water by the banks of
the brook. A. notice of a few of our best
common water plants may be profitable.

Among the many beautiful flowers that
; adorn our world there are none more
NUPHAR ADVENA. NYMPHA ODORATA. gorgeous than the WATER LILIES.

Nuphar advena is the common yellow Water Lily, that abounds almost everywhere, we
believe, in our Middle, Northern and Western States. It is a showy flower, and stands well up
from the water, on a strong stem, as shown in the engraving.

Nymphea odorata is the most beautiful of all our native Water Lilies. It is usually
as white as snow, though occasionally highly tinted with pink, and as fragrant as a Violet.
It generally sits gracefully upon the water, though, in shallow places, the flower is some-
times borne above the surface.

Nymphea tuberosa is larger
than Wymphea odorata, not very
fragrant, and never tinted with
pink.

Calla palustris is our native
Calla, and is quite common in
many portions of the North. The

MUA se believe, gathered and eaten b
PHS

= ~6the Indians, as they yield con-
- siderable starch.

Sagittaria sagittifolia.—This
is a very handsome aquatic, with
arrow-headed leaves, from which IRIS VERSICOLOR.
its name is derived. It is common in half the world. In China it is cultivated extensively
for the bulbs, for food. It is very common in all our inland waters, creeks and swamps.

Pontederia cordata, of purplish-blue flowers.
commonly called Prck- z Ranunculus aquatilis
erel-weed, 18 common is a beautitul little plant,
over a large section of particularly in foliage.
our country. It is found It is called the Water
in shallow water, is a Crowfoot. The flowers
vigorous plant, with are white, borne well
long-stalked leaves, of up above the water.
the arrow-head form, : : — Caltha palustris. This,
with a one-leaved stem, ne ‘a we think, every one will
terminated by a spike CALTHA PALUSTRIS. MENYANTHES TRIFOLIATA. recognize as the well-
known Cowslip, used by housewives in the spring for “ greens,’’ and often sold in our markets.

Menyanthes trifoliata, one of the most beautiful of our aquatic plants, is found in cold bogs
all over the North. The flowers are pink and white, and delicately fringed.

Typha latifolia is the well-known Cat’s-tail Flag, and often erroneously called Bullrush,
which is quite another plant.

Tris versicolor. — Almost every one is acquainted with some of the garden varieties of Iris,
but there are many who never saw our native /. versicolor flowering on the banks of streams.

TYPHA LATIFOLIA.

—~ 2 LE ge mee

CLASSIFICATION AND NAMES OF FLOWERS.

The flowering plants of our gardens, besides shrubs, trees, &c., are HERBACEOUS PEREN-
NIALS, BIENNIALS, ANNUALS and BULBOUS.

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS are plants which die down to the ground every autumn, but tha
roots continue to live, and new branches and flower stems are thrown up for many years. Some
continue indefinitely, but others die after three or four years, like the Sweet William ; but if the
roots are divided every year, they will continue to live and increase. These are called /izperfect
Perennials.

BIENNIALS are those that flower the second season after the seed is sown, and then die, unless
particular care is taken to preserve them, by dividing the roots, or retarding the flowering at
the usual time by removing the buds. Some of these classes flower the same season under favor-
able circumstances, as when the seed is sown early.

ANNUALS flower the first season, perfect their seeds, and then die. Some varieties that are
grown as Annuals in a Northern climate, are either Perennials or Biennials in their Southern
home, where there are no severe frosts. Annuals flower in a few weeks or months after being
planted, and can be depended upon for a brilliant show. Annuals are classed as hardy, half-
hardy and tender. Hardy Annuals are those that, like the Larkspur, Candytuft, &c., may be
sown in the autumn or very early in the spring, in the open ground. The half-hardy varie-
ties will not endure frost, and should not be sown in the open ground until danger from frost
is over. The Balsam and the Marigolds belong to this class. The ¢exder Annuals generally
require starting in a green-house or hot-bed to bring them to perfection, and should not be
set in the open ground until the weather is quite warm. The Cypress Vine and the Sensitive
Plant belong to this class; but, fortunately, very few of our fine Annuals. Some of them do
tolerably well if sown in the open ground the latter part of May, but very great success is not to
be expected in this way. It must be admitted, however, that these distinctions are not well
defined, and it is difficult to say where some kinds belong. Ina climate sufficiently South, of
course, those kinds we describe as tender are perfectly hardy.

BuLss are divided into Hardy, Holland and Tender. The Hardy includes all that will bear
a Northern winter. Ho//and, those exclusively grown in Holland, like Hyacinths, Crocuses,
Tulips, &c. 7Zender, those, like the Gladioli and Tuberose, that will not bear freezing, and
therefore must be planted in the spring.

We make a rather different division in this work, and one which, we think, will be found
quite convenient.

Ist. ALL KINDS that PRODUCE FLOWERS the same SEASON the SEED IS SOWN, are arranged in
one Department, under the heading of ANNUALS. This Department includes the following sub-
divisions : Chimbers, Everlastings and Ornamental Grasses.

2d. Under the name of PERENNIALS, all plants produced from seed that bloom the second
season after planting.

3d. GREENHOUSE, describing the leading plants grown from seeds adapted to Greenhouse
culture.

4th. BuLBs AND PLANTs. This Department has two divisions: Tender Bulbs and Tubers,
embracing all those tender bulbs, like the Dahlia, Gladiolus, Tuberose, &c., that will not bear
frost, and consequently must be planted only in the spring in a Northernclimate. Hardy Plants
and Bulbs, embracing all the Lilies, Peeonies, and other things that will endure our winters, and
consequently can be planted either in the fall or spring.

5th. HOLLAND Buss. This Department embraces Hyacinths, Tulips, and all other Bulbs
known as Holland Bulbs, and these must be planted in the autumn.

To aid in a more general understanding of the subject we give a GLOSSARY, explaining and
illustrating the botanical terms in most common use, and also a PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY of
BOTANICAL NAMES, which will serve as a guide to their proper pronunciation, and give much
information regarding their origin and meaning.

Alternate Leaves.

Ament or Catkin,

Leaf with auricu-
late base.

Axillary Bud.

Labiate or Bilabi-
ate Corolla.

Petal of Pink; C,
Claw.

i a . EP a Tr 2 —— Caps) j Ee yA» eS ). SEN Bh
q aS) VLA Wir 5

GG EON NEA ») :

BOTANICAL GLOSSARY.

ABORTIVE: Imperfectly developed.

ACHENIUM: A small, hard, seed-like fruit.

ACULEATE: Furnished with prickles.

ALA: A wing; plural a/e; the side petals of a papilio-
naceous flower. See Wing.

ALATE: Winged; as the seeds of the Maple, Elm, &c.

ALTERNATE: Leaves are said to be alternate when they
are situated first on one side then on another of the

_ stem or branch, but not opposite to each other.

AMENT: A scaly spike, as the Willow: a catkin.

ANTHER: The head and essential part of the stamen,
containing the pollen.

APETALOUS: Destitute of petals.

AURICULATE: Having lobes or appendages like the ear,
as at the base of some leaves.

AxIL: The angle or upper side between a leaf and stem.

AXILLARY (buds, &c.): Situated in the axil.

BELL-SHAPED: Having a bell-form.

BERRY: A fruit, pulpy or juicy throughout; as the
Gooseberry, Cranberry, Tomato, &c.

BILABIATE: ‘Two lipped; asthe corolla of the Salvia, &c.

Bract: A small leaf or scale, from the axil of which a
flower or its pedicel proceeds. _Bracts in general, are
the leaves of an inflorescence more or less different
from ordinary leaves.

BRACTLET: A bract on the pedicel or flower-stalk.

Bus: <A roundish body produced by a plant either above
or below the ground, (usually the latter,) and which is
really a bud. It consists of a cluster of partially de-
veloped leaves, and as it grows it produces a stem and
roots; as the Tulip, Lily, &c.

CaLyx: The outer covering or leaf-like envelope of a
bud or flower, as shown at A in the engraving.

CAMPANULATE: Bell-shaped.

CAPSULE: Any dry seed vessel or pod which opens by
seams in a regular way.

CARPEL: A simple pistil, or one of the parts of a com-
pound pistil.

CATKIN: Ascaly, deciduous spike of flowers; an ament.

CILIATE: Having the margin furnished with a fringe of
hairs or bristles like the eyelashes fringing the eyelids.

CLAw: ‘The narrow base of some petals.

CORDATE: Heart-shaped; as a cordate leaf.

Flower of Fuchsia. C, C, Cotyledons,

Cordate Leaf. B is the Corolla. or Seed Leaves of
a young plant.

.Campanulate or
Bell-shaped.

Corymb.—Phlox.

Digitate Leaf.

| Horsechestnut.

Leaflet.

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YY) 7 B0cy SSN 9 ead
OS RD ES ER Zo Ow CALA) WT
4 OD epee ae a Oe) nO ae a

Corm: A solid bulb, like that of the Gladiolus and Crocus.

CoroLLA: Inner covering of a flower; name of the
petals taken collectively.

CoryMs: A flat or convex flower cluster, in which the
flower-stalks or peduncles are produced alternately
along the common stalk and rise to the same height,
so as to form a flat or slightly rounded surface, and the
expansion of the flowers proceeds regularly from the
circumference to the center; as in Phlox Drummondii.

CoTYLEDONS: Seed lobes; the first leaves in the embryo.

CymME: A flower cluster resembling a corymb in form,
but differing from it by the expansion of the flowers
from the center to the circumference.

DEFLEXED: Bent downwards.

DEHISCENCE: The mode in which an anther or pod
bursts or splits open.

DEHISCENT: Opening in a regular manner by dehiscence.

DENTATE: Toothed.

DIGITATE: A compound leaf is said to be digitate when
all of its leaflets start out from the apex of the petiole.

Disk: The central part of a head of flowers, like the
Sunflower, in distinction from the flowers at the margin
called the ray. An enlarged part of the receptacle.

Downy: Clothed with a coat of soft and short hairs.

DrupPeE: A stone fruit.

EMARGINATE: Notched at the summit. Leaf.

Emsryo: The rudiment of the plant in the seed.

EQUITANT: (Aiding straddle) eaves are said to be
equitant when their bases or edges alternately overlap
each other, as, the equitant leaves of the Iris.

ExTRORSE: Turned outwards: the anther is extrorse when
fixed to the outside of the filament and faces the petals.

FASCICLE: A close cluster; a cyme with the flowers much
crowded; as the Sweet William.

FEATHER-VEINED: Veins proceeding from a mid-rib at | Frond of Fern; E
an acute angle. frond ; F stipe.

FronpD: The leafy part of a fern; a combination of leaf
and stem, as in many Algze and Liverworts.

GAMOPETALOUS: Having the petals united so as to form
a tube; monopetalous.

GENus: Aclass more extensive and higher than a species.

GERM: A growing point; a bud; that which is to develop

an embryo.
Hasir: The appearance and mode of growth of a plant. Convolvulus ; gam-

HERBACEOUS: Of the texture of herbs; not woody. opetalous flower.

C, Internode; D,

Node or Joint.

Tacmate eat. Lanceolate Leaf. Rose Leaf, show-
ing five leaflets.

G, Involucre.

at Vi (

Wad eeeo = ZAP eB » Nitin
%, Sea WA Q ;
Ves Sameer ee. Raita as —— ra Nc eh ea -

Hirsute: Hairy; having stiffish or beard-like hairs.

Hortus Siccus: An herbarium, or collection of dried
plants.

Hysrip: A cross between two allied species.

INSERTION: The mode or place of attachment of an organ.

INTERNODE: The part of a stem between the nodes.

INTRORSE: . Turned inwards; an anther is introrse when fs \i
it faces the pistils. Leaf of Begonia

INVoLUCRE: A whorl or set of bracts around a flower, | Rex, showing the

: umbel, or head, as shown at G in the engraving. netteiaiae:
‘Lasiate: Lipped; bilabiate.

LACINIATE: Cut irregularly into deep, narrow lobes;
slashed.

LANCEOLATE: Lance-shaped.

LEAFLET: One of the parts or divisions of a compound
leaf, as seen in the Horsechestnut leaf. (See engrav-
ing of digitate leaf.)

LEGUME: The fruit of a leguminous plant; as the pod
of a pea; a single, two-valved carpel.

Lose: Any projection or division, especially of a some-
what rounded form.

LomMENT: A pod like the legume, of two valves, but
divided into small cells, each containing a single seed.

MACULATE: Spotted.

MARGINATE: Having an edge or margin different from

A Loment. the rest. ObcordateLeaflets |

Lo See | Miprip:” The middlevor maim rib or alex Oxalis Bowei.

NEEDLE-SHAPED: Long, ‘slender’ and rigid, like the |g eu
leaves of pines.

NervE: A name for the ribs or veins of leaves when
simple and parallel.

NETTED-VEINED: Furnished with branching veins form-
ing net-work.

Y/ NopE: A knot; the joint of a stem from which springs

3eet Leaf, show- a leaf or a pair of leaves.

ing mid-rib. OBCORDATE: Heart-shaped, with the attachment by the

pointed end.
OBLANCEOLATE: Lance-shaped, with the attachment at
the tapering point.
OBOVATE: Ovate, but with the broad end upward.
OpposITE: Placed on opposite sides of some other body ;
thus when leaves are opposite they are on opposite sides
of the stem; and petals on opposite sides of flowers.
Nerwediieaves. | ORBICULAR? Circular in outline, or meaning sc.

Opposite Leaves of Orbicular Leaf of Oval Leat. Pistil, with Ovary Ovate Leaf.
Nummularia. ‘Tropzolum. laid open, show-
ing the ovules.

Thistle Seed, with
crown of pappus.

Peltate, or shield-

Pepo. Cucumbers,

Style, I; Stigma, H

Ova: Broadly elliptical.

the fruit.

after the style of a head of oats.

other flowers.

singly, or of a cluster.

tinguished as calyx and corolla ;
the flowers of the Lily family.

PETAL: A leaf of the corolla.

PETIOLE: A leaf-stalk.

petiole.

and the stigma.

a feather.

Ovary: That part of the pistil containing the ovules or
future seeds, and in the course of development becomes

OvaATE: Egg-shaped; like the section of an egg lengthwise.
PALMATE: Digitate (see p. 27); resembling the hand
with the outspread fingers ; spreading from the apex of
a petiole as the leaflets or divisions of a leaf.

PANICLE: An open flower cluster more or less branched,

Pappus: Thistle-down, and the similar formation in

PEpIcEL: The stalk of each single flower of a cluster.
PEDUNCLE: A flower stalk of a single flower when borne

PELTATE: Shield-shaped; applied to a leaf when the | Pericarps: Hazel- |
petiole is attached to its lower surface.

Prepo: A fruit like the Melon and Cucumber.
PERIANTH: All the flower-leaves taken collectively when
they appear so much alike that they cannot be dis-
as, for example, in

PERICARP: The ripened ovary; the shell or rind of any
fruit taken as a whole. When it separates into layers
each layer may have a different name, but the whole | Nemophila, show
taken together constitutes the pericarp.

PINNATE: Feather-shaped; a pinnate leaf consists of
several leaflets arranged on each side of a common

PistiL: The central and seed-bearing organ of the
flower, consisting of three parts, the ovary, the style

PLUMOSE: Feathery; when any slender body is beset :
; , eee: ; O, Petiole.
with hairs along its sides, like the plume or beards on

POLLEN: The fertilizing dust or powder of the anther.
PYRAMIDAL: Shaped like a pyramid.

RAcEME: A flower cluster with the flowers arranged
singly, on short pedicils, along the common flower-
stalk; as the Lily of the Valley and the Dicentra.
RACHIs (the backbone): The axis of a spike.
RADIATE or RADIANT: Furnished with ray-flowers dis- Pie eicor
tinct from disk flowers ; as in the Sunflower, &c. Clanchue.

nut, Pea & Cherry.

ing its five petals.

Pelargonium Leaf.

= -

Anther, discharg-
ing pollen. Raceme of
| Dicentra.

b> «
< <a. iy
S \ A —F we \ of 42 { \
3 = z ~ . CS 9= PS; = . - ofl. iti. ‘
| " ) S ‘
eee one a boo! oS eo ine Se oe. a oa ee eee ae

Gaillardia. Ray
flowers around Reflexed Segments

the margin. of Perianth.

SS \ Aas SN = Ce ke g
DOR : PAN: SE ps Sete
ere ( WSO), ese SOR,

eSeminar ea Su EN Sa ma BLE, EER 6 ees

RADICAL: Pertaining to the root, or apparently coming
from the root. |

RADICLE: The first root of a plant in the embryo.

Ray: A marginal floret of a compound flower; as in
the Aster, Sunflower, &c.; the branch of an umbel.
RECEPTACLE: Head of a flower-stalk from which the or-

Revie eee gans of a flower grow or into which they are inserted.

CPE ant REFLEXED: Bent outwards or backward.

REVOLUTE: Rolled backward.

RINGENT: Grinning, gaping open.

Rip: One of the principal pieces of the framework of |
a leaf.

ROOTLETS: Little roots or root-branches.

ROOTSTOCK: Root-like stem under ground; an under-
ground stem.

ROTATE: Wheel-shaped; a monopetalous corolla, ex-

A Ringent Corolla. panding into a flattish border, with scarcely any tube.

Salvia, RuGosE: Wrinkled, roughened with wrinkles.

SAGITTATE: Arrow-shaped.

SCABROUS: Rough to the touch.

SCANDENT: Climbing.

SCAPE: A peduncle or flower-stalk rising from the crown
of a root.

SEPAL: A single part or division of the calyx.

SERRATE: Toothed, like a saw; having the margin cut
into teeth pointing forward. Leaf, with Serrate

SERRULATE: Same as “ serrate,’’? but with fine teeth. Margin.

SESSILE: Sitting; without a stalk; asa leaf without a
petiole, or anther without a filament.

SILICLE: A short and broad pod of the Cress family.

SILIQUE: A long pod peculiar to the Cress family.

SINUATE: Strongly wavy.

SPADIX: A fleshy spike of flowers.

SPATHE: A sheathing bract which envelopes a spadix.

Rotate Flower. | SPICATE: Pertaining to or resembling a spike.
Potato Blossom. | SpikKE: A flower-cluster in which the flowers are sessile
on the axis or rachis, as in the Mullein.

SPINE: A thorn.

SPINDLE-SHAPED: ‘Tapering to each end like a Radish.

SPINOSE: Thorny.

STAMEN: One of the essential organs of a flower, which
secretes and furnishes the pollen or fertilizing dust ; it
consists of two parts, the anther and the filament.

STAMINATE: Furnished with stamens.

STELLATE: Starry; arranged in rays like those of a star,

A Scape. Tulip.

stock.

Silique of Mustard.
WW ih,
| Leaf with Sinuate Calla Spathe, en- Spike of Gladiolus. Stamen.
Margin. closing Spadix.

eg a Pee

perks

OR S'} g 5 VE
Sas WF: = SE |
SAS) We: SS ata
sore ae ea yp STE a= Peyeee MR
meets a OD SOE Med a Be PY ~ Vere
H STIGMA: The part of the pistil which receives the pollen.

Pistil, showing
Stigma at H.

Mushroom, show-

ing Stipe or Stem.

Leaf, with pair of
Stipules.

Raspberry, show-
ing Stolon at S.

Pistil. Style at I.

-TENDRIL: A spiral shoot that twines around another

STIPE: The stalk of a pistil; the stem of a Fern; the
stem of a Mushroom or of any fungus.

STIPULATE: Furnished with stipules.

STIPULE: An appendage at each side of the base of some
petioles or leaves; resembling small leaves in texture
and appearance.

STOLON: Trailing, rooting shoots.

STYLE: The middle part of the pistil which bears the
stigma.
SUBULATE: Awl-shaped.

body for support.

THROAT:. The orifice of a monopetalous corolla.

THyYRSE or THRySUS: A compact panicle, of a pyra-
midal or oblong shape; such as a cluster of the Lilac
or Horsechestnut. Tube.

TOMENTOSE: Wooly; covered with close, short hair, so
as to be perceptible by the touch.

Torus: The receptacle of the flower.

TRUNCATE: Appearing as if cut off at the tip.

Tuse: The tubular part of a monopetalous corolla, as
distinguished from the spreading border or limb.

Tusper: A thickened portion of an underground stem,
provided with eyes (buds) on the sides, as a Patato.

TumMID: Swollen. : i . Tee

UmBEL: A flower-cluster, in which all the pedicels spring
from the same point, and the expansion of the flowers
or infloresence is from the circumference to the center.

UNDULATE: Wavy; wavy margined.

VEIN: One of the small ribs or fine branches of the
framework of the leaves.

VEINLET: One of the smaller veins.

VENATION: The arrangement of the veins of leaves, &c.

VENTRICOSE: Inflated or swelled out on one side.

VERSATILE: Swinging, as the anthers of the Lily.

VILLOsE: Shaggy, with long and soft hairs.

Viscous, Viscip: Glutinous, clammy.

Wavy: The surface or margin alternately convex and
concave.

Wuor.L: Arranged in a circle around a stem; applied
to leaves, flowers, bracts, &c.

Wine: Any kind of membranous expansion; the two
lateral petals of a papilionaceous flower. Vine.

Pea Flower. W,
Versatile anthers Whorl of Leaves. Winged. Seed of W, Wing; B,
of the Lily. Maple. Banner; K, Keel.

E aia = sy an i eo ( On,
PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY OF BOTANICAL NAMES.

This Vocabulary contains the Botanical names of the orders, genera and species or sub-species that are men-

tioned in the FLoRAL GuIDE and FLOWER AND VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The accent (’) shows the accented syllable.

It does not include the names of varieties.

The words are divided into syllables, and each syllable should be separately pronounced in the usual manner

of such combinations of letters.

In some cases, the division into syllables has been made to indicate the correct sounds rather than to be critically

exact.

In names derived from the names of persons, the form of the proper name has been preserved, without

reference to the exact division of the syllables, in all cases where it could be done, and at the same time the correct

pronunciation indicated.

The letter a at the end of a word has always the sound of a in faga ; e final, or preceding a final consonant has
its long sound; z unaccented, if final, sounds as if written eye, but when it ends a syllable, not final, it has the
sound of e, as Drummondii, (Drummond e eye.); y is subject to the same rules as z.

The diphthongs @ and @ have the sound of e; and c/ has the sound of &.

FORMATION OF SOME BoTanicAL Names. — Names of genera are sometimes formed from those of persons, to
compliment or commemorate them; in such cases the termination a or za is added, as Mandevilla from Mandeville,

Bouvardia from Bouvard.

The name of a species is sometimes derived from the name of its discoverer, or of the person who first described

it, in which case the name terminates in Zor 27, as Sanfordii from Sanford.
given merely in compliment to a person they terminate in zazus, cana or tanum, as Hookeriana.

When commemorative names are
Sometimes

this termination is also given to the names of countries, as Arkansianum, Africanum, &c.

A Bro’ nt A— From the Greek word, advos, delicate ;
referring to the involucre.

A Bu’ TI Lon— An ancient name of a plant of the same
family, now transferred to this one.

A CAN THA’ CE #— A natural order, of which the
genus Acanthus is a type; name derived from akan-
thos, a spine, some of the species being spiny.

A CAU’ Lis — Stemless.

AC RO CLI’ NI uM (i short) — Derivation unknown.

Ap tu’ mt A— Named in honor of John Adlum.

A vo’ nis— This plant is fabled to have sprung from
the blood of Adonis, when wounded by a wild boar;
alluding to the blood-red color of some of the species.

/E/ GI Lops— A Latin name of a fdisease of the eye,
for which this plant has been supposed to be useful.

fEs TI va’ Lis, Es’ TI vuM — Pertaining to summer.

AF Fi’ nis — Allied or related to.

AF RI CA’ Nus— African.

A’ GA THA— Pleasant, pleasing or pretty.

A GE RA’ TUM— Name a compound of a privative, and
geras, old; as applied to this plant the meaning is
not to fade—the colors of the flowers remain always
clear.

A GRO STEM’ MA— From agvos, a field, and stemmaa
crown; literally the crown of the field; in reference
to the beauty of the flowers.

A Gros’ T1s — This is the Greek name for grass.

A ja’ c1is— Pertaining to Ajax; the marks on the front
of Delphinium Ajacis were fancied to read AIJAI, in
which form the name Ajax was sometimes written.

A xr’ pr A—A latinized form of the Japanese name of
one of the species of this genus.

A La’ Ta— Furnished with wings; winged.

Av’ gus — White.

AL BI FLO’ RUM — White-flowered.

A Lon’ so A— Named after Alonso, a Spanish botanist.

AL PES’ TRIS — Alpine.

AL TER NI FO’ LI us— Alternate-leaved.

AL TH&’/ A— From altheo, to cure; from the medicinal
qualities of some species.

A tys’ sum— Compound of a privative, and Zyssa, rage ;
from a notion of the ancients that the plant had the
power of allaving rage.

A mA’ BI Lis— Lovely.

A MA RAN TA’ CE #—A natural order of which the
genus Amaranthus is a type.

A MA RAN’ THUS— From the Greek word amarantos,
unfading,

A MA RYL’ 11s — The name of a Nymph celebrated by
the poet Virgil.

A ME LI O RA’ TA— Improved.

A MEL Lo I’ pES— Resembling the Amellus.

A MER I CA’ NA— American.

Am mo’ g1 um—From azzmos, sand, and d2o0, to live;
in reference to the situation where the plants grow.

A mo/ mum — From a privative, and somos, impurity ;
in allusion to the supposed qualities of some species
as poison antidotes.

A NA GAL’ t1s— As the plants of this genus were for-
merly supposed to possess the power of removing
despondency they were named from the word anzage-
Zao, to laugh.

AN DRO’ ME DA— Named after the virgin, Andromeda.

AN DRO PO’ GON—From aver, a man, and pogon, a
beard; the little tufts of hairs on the flowers re-
semble a man’s beard.

A NEM’ 0 NE— From azemos, the wind; many of the
species inhabit elevated, windy places. {The .
common instead of the original and correct pronun-
ciation, An e mo’ ne. |

A NEM O NE FLO’ RA*~ Anemone-flowered ; flowers re-
sembling the Anemone.

AN GEL’ 1 cA— Named after its supposed angelic virtues.

An’ GLI CA— English.

AN TIR RHI’ NUM— From azz, similar, and r/zu, a nose ;
because the flowers of most of the species bear a re-
semblance to the snout of some animal.

A pr A’ cE #—A natural order, of which the genus Apium
is the prominent representative; name derived from
the Celtic word afoz, water; in allusion to the place
where the plants grow.

A pI cu LA’ TUM, (i short) — Resembling a bee, from
apicula, a little bee.

A po cy NA’ cE =— A natural order of which the Apo-
cynum is a representative; name derived from ao,
away, and kyon, a dog; supposed to be mortal if
eaten by dogs. Most plants of this order contain
acrid, milky juices, very poisonous.

A gut LE’ GI A—From aguz/a, an eagle; alluding to the
form of the petal.

AR ENA’ RI A—From arena, sand; most of the species
grow in sand or sandy places.

AR GE MO’ NE, (g hard) — Named from argema, cataract
of the eye; in allusion to its supposed medicinal prop-
erties. —

AR GEN’ TE UM— Silvery.

Ar Is Ti’ p—Es— The name of a renowned Athenian.

AR KAN SI A’ NuM — Arkansan, from Arkansas.

AR ME’ RI A— Derivation unknown.

A RuN’ po — Latin arundo, a reed.

As par’ A GuS— From sfarrasso, to tear; on account
of the strong prickles with which the plants of some of
the species are armed.

AS PAR A GO I’ DES— Resembling the Asparagus.

As PE RU’ LA— Diminutive of asfer, rough; in allusion
to the slight roughness of the leaves.

As/ TER — From aster, a star; from the resemblance of
the flowers to a star.

As T1L’/ BnE— From a, privative, and s¢zdbe, brightness ;
not shining.

A To MA’ RI A—From atomus, an atom; in allusion to
the numerous little dots upon the petals.

A TRI PLI CI FO’ £1 A (ishort) — Atriplex-leaved ; leaves
like the Atriplex; Atriplex is the botanical name of a
culinary vegetable commonly called Orache.

A TRO Coc ci’ NE A(ishort) — From ater, black, and
coccineus, scarlet; very dark scarlet.

A TRO SAN GuIN’ E A— From ater, black, and sanguin-
eus, bloody, blood-colored, blood-red ; very dark blood
red or very dark crimson.

A TRO v1 0 LA’ CE A— From ater, black, and violaceus,
violet-colored; very dark violet-colored.

AU RAN TI A/ CA— Pertaining to the Orange, Orange-
colored; Aurantium, (from azreuzs, golden, or gold-
colored,) is the name of one species of the Orange.

Av RA’ TuM, Av’ RE A— From aureus, golden.

Av ri’ cu LA (i short) — Latin, auricuda, the ear.

Av Tum na’ Lis— Autumnal.

A ve’ NA— Latin, avena, oats.

A zo’ rt CA— Pertaining to the Azores ; from the Azore
Islands.

A zu’ RE A— From the Persian dayaward, lapis lazuli,
a blue color; of a sky-blue, resembling the clear blue
color of the sky.

Bar Ba’ TuS— Having a beard, bearded.

Ba’ KER 1— Named after Mr. Baker.

Bat sA mi/ NAa— The Arabic name is é2lassan, whence
probably Balsamina, Balsam has sprung.

BAL SA MI NA’ CE #—A natural order, of which the
Balsam is the type.

Bar cLay A’ NA— Referring to Mr. Barclay.

Bar To’ nr A—In honor of Dr. B. S. Barton, a botanist
of Philadelphia.

BEs SE RI A’ NA— Named after Dr. Besser, a Russian
Professor of Botany.

Bey’ RICH II.

Bi’ Cox or (i short)— Two colored.

Bic no’ x1 A— In memory of Abbe Bignon, Librarian
to Louis XIV.

Bic No NI A’ CE #— Thename of anatural order, of which
the Bignonia is the leading representative.

Boc co’ NtA—In honor of Paolo Boccone, M. D., a
Sicilian monk.

BLoom ER I A’ NuM —In reference to Mr. Bloomer, an
amateur botanist of San Francisco, California, in honor
of whom a species of Lily was named.

Bom sy ci’ nus—From éonzbyx, the silk worm; silky.

Bow pu cet’ ta— From the French éoxduc, and traccd
through other languages to the Greek pontikon, the
pontic nut or Filbert; the Filbert grew extensively in
Pontus, and was made an article of commerce. The
Bonducella tree is a species of Guilandina in the East
Indies ; it produces a three-cornered pod, somewhat
resembling a little Filbert with its husk on. The Bon-
ducella is cultivated as a stove plant, and has flowers
of a peculiar yellow color, and probably because the
flowers of Statice Bonducella are of a similar shade of
color this name has been given to it.

love

Bo RA G1 NA’ CE 2@—The name of a natural order, of
which the Borage is a familiar representative.

Bor Bo Ni EN’ sis— From the Isle of Bourbon.

Bou var’ pl a—In memory of Dr. Bouvard, Superin-
tendent of the Royal Paris Botanic Garden.

Bow 1 EW’ sis, Bow’ 11—In memory of J. Bowie, a col-
lector of plants for the Kew Gardens, London.

Bra cHy co!/ME—From évachys, short, and ove,
hair; in allusion to the down or pappus with which
the seed is crowned.

BRA CHYR RHIN’ CHUM—From_ J6rachys,
rynchos, a beak or snout.

BRAC TE A’ TUM— Bracteate; furnished with bracts.
Bri’ zA— From ér7zzo, to nod; on account of the quak-
ing character of the spikelets.
Bri z For’ mis — Briza-shaped.
Bri zo py’ RuM—From_ 677zo,

wheat.

Bro’ mus—So called from dro0s, the Greek name for
the wild oat.

Bro wat’ 11 Aa—Named in honor of J. Browallius,
Bishop of Abo,

Bru’ NE us— Brown.

But go co/ p1 um—From éxzdbos, bulb, and kodzon,
wool; the bulb is wrapped in a wooly covering.

Bur RID GI A’ NuM, Bur RID’ GI.

Buycx’ rt.

Ca ca/ tt A—From kakos, pernicious, and /7az, exceed-
ingly ; this is a very ancient name, and has probably
been transferred to this plant from some other, so that
the significance of the name does not now apply

Ca LAB’ RI CA—Calabrian; from Calabria.

Ca La’ pI uM— Meaning unknown.

Ca Lam’ PE Lis—From kados, pretty, and ampelis, a
vine.

Ca LAN DRI’ NI A, (ishort)—In honor of J. L. Calan-
drini, a German botanist.

CaL CEO LA’ RI A—From cadceolus, a small shoe; in
allusion to the form of the corolla.

Ca LEN’ pu LA— Named from calende, the first day of
the month; so named because in its native hab-
tats it may be found in flower during the calends of
each month, or, which is the same thing, during every
month of the year.

Ca LEN DU LA’ CE uS— Calendula-like; like the Calen-
dula.

CAL 1 FoR’ NI cus— Californian.

Cat 1 op’ sis—From kadlistos, beautiful, and ofs7s,
the eye.

CAL LI RHO! E—A Greek mythological name.

Ca Ly can’ THUS — From kalyx, a calyx, and anthos,a
flower; in allusion to the colored calyx resembling
petals which are not present in this class.

Ca typ’ so— A nymph, daughter of Attas, who ruled in
one of the islands of the Sicilian Sea, and who enter-
tained Ulysses.

Cam pA’ NU LA— This name is a diminuitive of cam-
pana,abell; from the resemblance of the corolla toa
little bell.

CAM PA NU LA’ CE & — The name of a natural order rep-
resented by the Campanula.

Cam PA NU LA’ rA—Campanulate, or bell-shaped.

Ca NA DEN’ SE — Canadian. é

CAN DE LA’ BRUM — Candelabrum is the Latin name for
Candlestick or Chandelier, which was commonly
made with branches or arms.

CAN pI pis’ st MA— Superlative of white ; whitish.

Can’ NA-— From the Greek azua, a cane, a reed.

Ca pI TA’ TA— Capitate; having a head.

Cap PA RI DA’ CE 2—A natural order, a typical plant
of which is the Caper-bush or Caper, (Capparis.)

CAR DA MI NI FO’ L1A — Cardamine-leaved.

short, and

to nod, and fyros,

Car pi NA’ L1s— Meaning red or scarlet colored; in
allusion to the red hat and cassock of a Cardinal.

CAR DI O PET’ A LUM — Heart-shaped petal.

CAR DI O SPER’ MUM — From kardia, a heart, and sper-
ma,aseed; in allusion to its round seeds which are
marked with a spot like a heart.

Car No’ sA— Flesh-colored.

Ca RI NA/ TUM— Keel-formed; from carvzva, the keel
of a ship.

Car pa’ T1 cA—Carpathian. Carpathia was the ancient
name of an island in the Grecian Archipelago.

CA RY O PHYL LO I’ pES— Resembling the Pink.

Cas’ sta — Derived from the Hebrew etzzoth.

Cau va’ Tus —Caudate, having a tail; from cauda, a
tail.

CE Lo’ st A— From eZos, burnt; the flowers of some of
the species appear as if singed.

CEN TAU’ RE A, or CEN TAU RE’ A—It is said that with
one of these plants the Centaur Chiron healed the
wound made in his foot by the arrow of Hercules.

CEN TAU RI’ DI UM (i short)— Similar to Centaurea.

CEN TRAN’ THUS — From kentron, a spur, and anthos,a
flower; the corolla being furnished with a spur at the
base.

Cr’ rES— The daughter of Saturn and sister of Jupiter,
goddess of Agriculture.

CER VI A KOW’ SKI.

CHAL CE DO’ NI CA— Chalceodonian.

CHA M& PEU’ CE— From chamaz, on the ground, or
dwarf, and fewke, a fir tree.

Cua M2 cris’ TA— From chamaz, dwarf, and crista, a
crest, or tuft.

Cnet’ ri— Kheyrey is the Arabic name for the genus
Cheiranthus.

CHEI RAN’ THUS— From its Arabic name kheyrey, and
anthos, a flower.

CHI NEN’ SE, CHI NEN’ sis — Chinese.

CuHLo’ ris — From chloros, green; alluding to the color
of the herbage.

Curys AN’ THA— From chrysos, gold, and axthos, a
flower.

CHRYS AN THE MO I’ DES — Resembling the Chrysan-
themum.,

CHRYS AN’ THE MUM — From chrysos, gold, and anthos,
a flower; because many of the kinds bear yellow
flowers.

Cury so ck’ PHA LUM— From chrysos, gold, and ke-
phale, ahead.

Curys vu’ rus—From chrysos, gold, and oura,a tail;
alluding to the compact head of flowers.

Ci Li a’ Tum (i short)—Ciliate, fringed; beset on the
margin with a fringe of hairs or bristles; from cz/zu,
an eye-lash.

CIN E RA’ RI A— From c7uerarius, pertaining to ashes ;
in allusion to the color and appearance of the under
side ot the leaves.

CIN NA BA RI’ NA— Vermilion color.

Cir RHO’ sA — Furnished with a tendril or twining leaf-
stem.

Ci TRI’ Nus— Lemon-colored, a greenish-yellow like a
lemon.

CrLark’ 1 A—In honor of Captain Clarke, who accom-
panied Captain Lewis in his journey to the Rocky
Mountains.

CLEm’ a tTis— From klema, a vine branch; leaves of
most of the species climb like the vine.

CLE o/ ME— From £Zezo, to shut; alluding to the parts
of the flowers.

CLE 0 pA’ TRA— A Queen of Egypt.

Cri An’ TrHUS— From fZezos, glory, and anxthos, a
flower; in reference to the noble appearance of the
species of this genus.

Dy MNES

— A in —— Sv
iN SE one is

Benoa — ea

Co sa’ a—In honor of B. Cobo, a Spanish botanist.

Coc cin’ EA, Coc cin’ NE us— Of a scarlet color.

Coc co Lo’ BA— From kokkos, a berry, and lobos, a
lobe; in allusion to the character of the fruit.

Ca@ Les Ti’ Num (i short)— From c@lum, the heavens ;
referring to the sky-blue color.

Ca’ tr Ro sa—Rose of Heaven.

Co 1x —A name formerly applied toa kind of Ethiopian
Palm, and which has been transferred to the genus of
Grass which now bears it.

Cov’ cut cum— Named after Colchis, its native country.

Co’ Le us— Derived from foleos, a sheath; referring to
the manner in which the stamens are united.

Cor tin’ st A—In honor of Z. Collins, formerly Vice
President of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Phila-
delphia.

Co Lu Bri’ NA— From koludber, a snake; alluding to the
appearance of the twisted stamens of the flowers of the
Colubrina.

Com mv’ Nis— Common.

Com pac’ Ta — Compact.

Com pos/1 T#—-A natural order composed of plants
which have a number or many flowers congregated to-
gether in a head, like the Dandelion, the Thistle, the
Sunflower, the Aster, &c.

CON CHI FLO’ RA— Shell-flowered.

Con GEs’ TA— A heap, pile.

Con so/ Lt DA— Very firm or solid.

Con spi’ cu um— Remarkable, attracting attention.

Con vot’ vu Lus— From convolvo, to roll together, roll
up, roll round; in reference to the habit of the plants.

Cor DI FO/ Lt umM— Heart-shape leaved.

Co Ro na’ Rt uM— Wreath-like.

Co RYM BI FLO’ RuM— Flowers arranged in a corymb.

Cra NI O EA’ RI A——Like a skull; from krantum, a
skull.

Cras si FO’ Lt A— Thick leaved; from crassus, solid,
thick, dense.

Crep’ 1s — Derivation unknown.

CRIS TA-GAL’ L1I— From cvista, a tuft, and gallus, a
cock; a cock’s comb.

Cris Ta/ TA— Crested.

Cro’ ce a — Saffron-colored.

Cro’ cus—A Chaldean name. Ovid relates a story of
a youth by the name of Crocus being turned into this
flower.

Cru ci’ FE R&— The name of a natural order of plants ;
literally, cross-bearing; the flowers of the plants of
this order have four petals spread out in the form ofa
cross, as in the Mustard, Cabbage, Candytuft, &c.

Cru EN’ TuS — Covered, spotted or stained with blood.

CruIK SHANK’ 11 (Crook) — Named after Cruikshank.

Crys TAL LI’ NuM— Crystalline.

Cu’ cu mis—From curvus, crooked; referring to the
shape of the fruit.

Cu cur’ BI TA—From curvitas, crookedness.

Cu’ pHE a— From kughos, curved; in reference to the
form of the capsule.

Cu PRE A’ TA,,CU/ PRE uS— Copper-colored.

Cy a! nus — From cyaneus, dark blue, sea blue.

Cy’ cLA MEN— Derived from syk/os, circular; referring
to the round leaves.

(Cy BA LA’ Rt A—Cymbal-shaped.

Cy no su’ RuS— From uon, a dog, and oura, a tail;
from its resemblance to a dog’s tail, whence the name,
Dog’s Tail grass.

Cy no su Ro I’ pes— Like the Cynosurus.

Cy’ rE rus (y short)— From the Island of Cyprus or
from Cyfrzs, another name for Venus.

Dam As ce’ NA— From Damascus.

Dam Pr F’ R1t— Referring to Captain William Dampier,
a celebrated circumnavigator.

Da Tv’ RA— An alteration of the Arabic name ¢atorah.

Da vip son’ 11.

Dex ica Tis’ st MA — The most delicate.

DEL pur’ NI uM, (i short,)— From de/phin, in reference
to the supposed resemblance of the nectary of the plant
to the imaginary figures of the Dolphin.

Den Ta’ TA— Dentate, toothed; a term applied to the
margin of a leaf which has sharp teeth pointing out-
ward from the center.

DE pres’ sA — Pressed down, flattened from above.

Di a can’ THA— Two-spined, or two-thorned;
dis, two, and acantha, a spine.

Dr an’ tHus— From aos divine, and axthos, a flower;
referring to the fragrance and beauty of the flower.

Di pts’ cus.

Dr ar ta’ us, (short i, g soft,)—Of, or belonging to,
the finger; in allusion to the resemblance the flower
bears to the finger of a glove.

Dir’ sa cus — Supposed to be from azfsao, to thirst; in
consequence of the leaves holding water.

Dis co 1 pa’ t1s— Discoidal, resembling a disc.

DI VER SI FLO’ RA — Diverse-flowered.

Do bE ca’ THE ON— From dodcka, twelve, and theos, a
divinity ; a name without significance as applied to
the plant that bears it. ;

Do’ tt cHos— From dodichos, long; in reference to the
long twining stems.

Dra c#’ na—From drakaina, a female dragon; be-
cause the inspissated juice becomes a red powder, like
that produced from the blood of the dragon.

Drum monn’ 11— Discovered by Drummond; Mr.
Thomas Drummond was a well-known Naturalist and
zealous collector of plants, chiefly in this country. He
died in Havana in 1835.

Dun NET’ TI I.

Ec crE MO CAR’ puS— From ekkremes, pendent, and
karpos fruit; the fruit is pendent.

E 1a’ Ta, E 1a’ TI oR— Exalted, high, lofty.

Ev’ £ Gans— Elegant.

EL E GAN Tis’ st MA— Most elegant.

EN py’ MI oN, (y andi short)— A beautiful youth, who,
on account of his love for Juno, was condemned by
Jupiter to perpetual sleep, in which sleeping condition
Luna fell violently in love with him.

Er 1 AN’ THUS— From ero, wool, and azthos, a flower.

E ri’ nus—Probably from erzzeos, the wild fig-tree,
which has a milky juice; erzmus is the name of a
genus of Alpine plants with milky juice; this term,
therefore, has been applied to some plants having a
milky juice.

E ry’ si mum, (y short) — From e7zoz, to draw, to cure;
it is thought to be a cure fora sore throat; it is also
said to draw and produce blisters.

E ry THRI' NA— From erythros, red; in reference to
the color of the flowers.

Es cu Len’ TtuM— Esculent, edible.

Esc SCHOLT’ zi A (c silent)— From Dr. Eschscholtz, a
Botanist.

Ev o/ ny Mus— From ez, well, and oxoma, a name,
wellnamed. ‘The application of the name is obscure.

Ev poor’ pt A—Euphorbus was physician to Juba,
King of Mauritania, and first used this plant in medi-
cine; Linnzeus gave the name in his honor.

Eu To’ ca — From eztokos, fruitful; alluding to the great
number of seeds.

Ex 1’ MI um—Select, distinguished, extraordinary, un-
common, excellent.

Far Fu’ Gi um— The Farfugium bears a general resem-
blance to Colt’s-foot, or Tussilago Farfara, of which
the ancient name was Farfugium, and from this cir-
cumstance it has received its name; the meaning of
the name is uncertain.

from

Fas Tu o/ sa— Proud, haughty, disdainful.

Frenz/ 11 A—In honor of Dr. Fenzl.

Fer’ r#, FER ru Gi’ NE A (i short)— Resembling iron-
rust in appearance or color; brownish-red, mixed
with gray.

Fr co 1p’ Er 2—A natural order of succulent plants, of
which the Mesembryanthemum is a typical genus ;
the meaning of the name is unknown.

FLam’ mu Lta—A little flame.

Fra’ va — Golden yellow, reddish yellow.

Fra vis’ st MuM— The yellowest.

FLEx vu 0/ sAa— Full of turns, tortuous, flexuous.

FLo RE AL’ Bo— White-flowered.

FLO RE CAR’ NE O— Flesh-colored flower.

FLO RE LU’ TE o— Yellow-flowered.

FLO RE PLE’ No— Double-flowered.

FLo’ r1 pus— Full of flowers, abundant blooming ; flush-
ed with rose color.

FLo r1 BuN’ pA— Abounding in flowers.

Fo’ rr Is—A leaf.

Fon TA NE si A’ NA—In honor of the celebrated Des-
fontaines, professor of Botany at Paris.

For mo’ sa— Finelv formed, beautiful, handsome.

Fra Ga’ R1 A— From /raga, strawberries.

Fru Tes’ cens — Shrubby.

Fut’ ct pa— Flashing, glittering, shining.

Fu MA RI A’ CE &—The name of a natural order of
plants, containing, among other genera, the Fumaria,
Dicentra and the Adlumia. The name is derived
from /umus, smoke; alluding to the disagreeable
smell of the Fumitory, (Fumaria officinalis.)

Fu MA RI & FO’ L1 A— Fumaria-leaved.

Fucu si 0 1/ pEs — Resembling the Fuchsia.

Gaix Lar’ pt A — In honor of M. Gaillard de Marenton-
neau, an amateur Botanist.

Ga La’ THE A— A sea nymph; a female friend of Hor-
ace, to whom he addressed an ode.

GAN DA VEN’ sis— Changed from Gandensis ;
Gand, or Ghent, in Belgium.

GARD NER I A’ NuS— Referring to George Gardner, a
Scotchman and an enthusiastic Botanist and plant
collector, who made extensive travels in South Amer-
ica, and introduced a great many plants from that
country into Great Britain ; he was afterward appoint-
ed Director of the Botanical Garden of Ceylon, and
died in 1841.

from

Gr ni cu LA’ TA— Bent abruptly, like a knee; from
genu,aknee; geniculatus, bended knee.
GEN TI AN O I’ pES— Resembling the Gentian. The

Gentian received its name from Gentius, King of Illy-
ria, who first experienced the virtues of the plant.

Ge RA’ NI UuM— Named by Linneus, from geranos, a
crane; in allusion to the crane-like beak terminating
the carpels.

GI GAN TE’ Us (i short) — Gigantic.

Git’ 1 a—In honor of P. S. Gilio, a Spanish botanist of
some note.

Guia’ sRuM — Smooth, without hair.

Gua’ p1 o LuS— Gladiolus, a small sword; alluding to
the sword-shaped leaves.

GLAU Co PHYL’ LA— Glaucous-leaved, that is, the leaves
covered with a bluish-gray bloom or powder that rubs
off, like that on a fresh plum or a Cabbage leaf; from
glaucus, bluish-gray, and phyllon, a leaf.

GLo Bo’ sA— Globose.

GLox I N# FLO’ RA—Gloxinia-formed, flowers like the
Gloxinia.

Giox 1’ nr A—Named in honor of P. B. Gloxin, -a
botanist of Colmar.

GLox 1 No I’ pes — Gloxinia-formed,
Gloxinia.

Go ve’ T1 A— Derivation uncertain.

resembling the

Gom PHRE’ NA—From gowphos, a club; alluding to
the shape of the flowers.

Gra’ cI L1s— Thin, small, slender.

GRA’ HAM II.

GRAN’ DE— Large, great.

GRAN DI FLO/ RA— Large-flowered.

Gym No car’ pA — Naked-fruited ; from gysznos, naked,
and karvfos, a fruit.

Gy ne’ RI UM— From gyze, a female, and evzoz, wool;
in reference to the stigmas.

GyP so’ PHI LA— From gyfsos, chalk, and phzleo, to
love; in reference to the favorite habitat of the plant.

Haa Ge a’ Na (g hard)— Referring to Mr. Haage, a
celebrated florist and seedsman, of Erfurt, Prussia.

Ha x1 ca’ CA BUM— The capsules or seed-vessels of the
Cardiospermum Halicacabum are inflated like the
pods of Vesicaria; the Greek name of Vesicaria was
halicacabus.

Hart wec/ 11— Referring to Mr. Theodore Hartweg,
who was at one time a botanical collector in South
America for the Royal Horticultural Society of Great
Britain.

Hep bE wic’ 1 1— In honor of Mr. Heddewig.

He py sa/ rum— An old Greek name of uncertain origin.

HE Li aN’ rHUS—F rom felios, sun, and anthos, a
flower ; on account of the brilliant color of the flowers,
and from the fanciful idea that the flowers always
turned toward the sun.

Her Li cHRy’ sumM— From heZios, sun, and chrysos, gold ;
in allusion to the brilliant colors of the flowers.

HE LI 0 TRO’ PI uM, (HELIOTROPE,)— From heZios, the
sun, and ¢rofo, to turn; the flowers are said always to
turn to the sun.

HE wip’ TE RuUM— The derivation is not apparent.

HER BER’ T1 1— Referring to the Rev. William Herbert,
Dean of Manchester, a scientific horticulturist and
botanist.

Hi sis’ cus— Probably derived from 767s, a stork, be-
cause that bird is said to eat the plants of some of the
species.

His pa’ NI CA— Spanish.

Hook ER 1 A’ NA— In reference to one of the Hookers,
father and son, celebrated English botanists.

Hor’ pe um — Latin, hordeumnz, barley.

Hor ren’ sis— Belonging to a garden; from hortus,a
garden.

Hoy’ A—In honor of Thomas Hoy, a noted English
gardener, and Fellow of the Linnean Society.

Hum soupt’ 11— In reference to the celebrated travel-
er and naturalist, Baron von Humboldt.

Hv’ me a — Inhonor of the lady of the late Sir Abraham
Hume, Bart., Wormsleybury, Herts., England.

Hv’ mi tts — Humble, small, low.

Hun NE MANN’11, Hun NE MANN’ I A—In honor of
John Hunnemann, a zealous botanist, and to whom
horticulture is indebted for a great number of plants.

Hy A CIN THI FLO’ RUM — Hyacinth-flowered.

Hy a crn’ rHus— In Mythology, Hyacinthus was a boy
who was killed by Zephyrus.

Hy A cIN THO I’ DES — Hyacinth-shaped, resembling
the Hyacinth.

Hy’ prt pA — Hybrid; the progeny of the union of two
species.

Hy pran’ GE A— From hydor, water, and aggcion, a
cup or vessel; the capsule of some of the species has
been compared to a cup.

Hy pro pHYL LA’ CE 2— The name of a natural order,
commonly called the Water-leaf family; the applica-
tion of the name is obscure.

Hys so pr Fo’ tt A— Hyssop-leaved.

J BE RI DI FO’ L1 A— Iberis-leaved; leaves like the Can-
dytuft.

I Be’ r1s — From /éeria, the ancient name of Spain.

Im mu TA’ BI L1Is— Immutable, unchanging.

Im PE RI A’ L1S— Imperial.

In ca’ NA— Hoary, mouldy-colored.

In car na/ TA— Flesh-colored.

In’ p1 cA— Indian; from the Indies.

In pi vi’ sa— Undivided.

In sic’ nis— Distinguished by a mark, remarkable,
noted, distinguished, prominent, extraordinary.

IN TEG RI FO! LI A— Whole-leaved—that is, the leaf en-
tire, or not divided, cut or lobed.

IN vor tv cra’ Tum— Involucrate, having an involucre.

I po Ma’ a— From 7s, bindweed, and omozos, simi-
lar; alluding to the twining habit of the plant.

I po mop’ sts — From 7fo, to strike forward, and opszs,
sight; alluding to the dazzling color of the flowers.

I’ rts — From 7rzs, the rainbow; alluding to the variety
and beauty of the colors of the flowers.

ISA BEL LY’ NA—A peculiar shade of yellow or drab.

I so’ LE pis— From /sos, equal, and /efzs, a scale; al-
luding to the regularity of the scales,

Ix’ 1 a—/v7za, bird-lime; because of the viscid nature
of some of the species.

JAcK MAN’ N11—In reference to George Jackmann,
nurseryman, of Surrey, England.

Ja va’ pA— From a town of that name.

Ja po’ NI CA— Japanese.

Ju pa’ rum— Crested, maned.

Kaut Fus’ st A—In honor of Frederick Kaulfuss, M.
D., formerly Professor of Botany at Halle.

Kino’ 11.

La pi a’ r@=—'The name of a natural order, commonly
called the Mint family; the flowers of the plants in
this order have always a two-lipped corolla, hence,
the name, from dZadézuz, a lip.

Lap’ ran— Laélaé is the Arabic name of Convolvulus ;
the idea of twining is probably the import of the term.

La’ cHryY MA— Lachrima, a tear.

La ci ni A‘ TUS—Laciniate; slashed, cut into deep, nar-
row lobes.

La GE NA’ R1IA— From dagena, a bottle; because of the
bottle-shaped fruit of some of the species.

La Gu’ Rus— From éagus,a hare, and oura, a tail; on
account of the resemblance of its heads.

La marcK 1 A’ NA— In reference to Lamarck, a French
naturalist, who wrote largely upon botany about the
end of the eighteenth century.

La na’ ra— Wooly ; clothed with long and soft entangl-
ed hairs.

LAN CI Fo’ Lt uM — Lance-leaved.

Lan Ta’ Na — One of the ancient names of the Viburnum,
and applied to this genus by Linnzus, because of the
similarity of the leaves.

La nu Git No’ SA — Wooly.

Las SEAUX’ II.

La Te Ri! T1 A— From /ateritius, brick-work; hence,
brick-color.

La/ tHy Rus—From /a, augmentative, and thourus,
anything exciting; in allusion to the medicinal quali-
ties of the seeds.

La T1 Fo’ L1 Aa— Broad-leaved.

LA Tr pet’ A LA— Broad-petaled.

LEG u M1 No’ s#— The name of a natural order; com-
monly called the Padse Famzly, and of which the com-
mon Pea and the Bean are familiar representatives.
Name from /egumen, pulse, leguminous plant, the
Bean.

LEp TO’ st PHON— From J/eftos, slender, and szphon, a
tube ; alluding to the slender tube of the corolla.

Leu can’ THA— From Jeukos, white, and anthos, a
flower ; white-flowered.

Leu co’ jum— From dexkos, white, and zoz, a violet.

whose

‘LEuT WEIN’ 11— From Leutwein, a German,
name is pronounced almost like “ght w7ne.
Li so’ nr A— Named after Libon, who discovered it in

Brazil a few years since.

‘Li ra cr’ Na— Lilac colored.

Li’ tr um (i short)—From the Celtic word 2, whiteness ;
on account of the white flowers of some of the species.

Lim pa’ Ta — Having an expanded end, or being bor-
dered by something.

Li na’ cE 2—A natural order, commonly called Flax-
worts; the principal genus is the Linum, or Flax, and
from which the order receives its name.

Li na/ rt A— From Zinum, flax; on account of the sim-
ilarity of the leaves.

Lin pen’ 11—In reference to M. Linden, a prominent
Horticulturist, of Ghent.

Li’ num—From the Celtic word 2/zz, a thread; the
fibres of one species of Linum is the Flax of commerce,
from which linen cloth is made.

Lo a’ sa— Meaning unknown.

Loa sa’ ce #—A _ natural order, which receives
name from its leading genus, Loasa.

Los Br a‘ NuM— In reference to William Lobb, an inde-
fatigable English plant collector and botanist.

Lo se’ tt A—In honor of Matthew Lobel, a native of
Lille, who became a botanist and physician to
James I.

Lon ais’ st MA — Longest; superlative of long.

Lo ni cz’ RA— Named after Adam Lonicer, a German
botanist, who died in 1586.

Lo’ REI.

Lv’ cr pA — Brilliant, bright, shining.

Lu pi’ nus— From Zupus, a wolf, because Lupines were
thought to destroy the fertility of the soil.

Lu’ TE a— Golden yellow, saffron yellow, orange yellow.

Lycn’ nis— From Zychnos,a lamp; on account of the
brilliancy of the flowers of some of the species.

Ma cro car’ pus—From makros, long, and karpos,a
fruit.

Mac ro si’ pHON—From makros, long, and sifhon, a
tube ; alluding to the long tube of the corolla.

Ma cu La’ TA — Spotted.

Ma’ jor— Larger.

Ma’ to pE—From wales, tender;
soft leaves.

Mat va’ ce — The name of a natural order, contain-
ing the genus JZaZva, from which it receives its name;
the name is derived from 7zalache, soft; in allusion to
the emollient qualities of the species.

Man bE vit’ ra — Named in honor of Henry J. Mande-
ville, Esq., a British Minister to Buenos Ayres, who
introduced this plant and many others into England.

Man Gur’ s1 1— Referring to Captain James Mangles, of
the British navy, who was a patron of botany.

Ma RAN TA’ CE @— The name of a natural order of
plants, which receives its name from the Maranta, or
Arrow-root. The Maranta received its name from B.
Maranti, a Venitian physician and botanist, who died
in 1554.

Mar Gi nA’ TA— Marginate ; having a border or edge
different from the rest.

Ma rI’ T1 ma (i short) — Maritime ;
sea. ;

Mar mo ra’ TA— Marbled; variegated like marble.

Mar tyn’1 a—In honor of John Martyn, F. R. S.,
Professor of botany at Cambridge, England, who died
in 1768.

Mau ran’ py a—In honor of Dr. Maurandy, Professor
of botany at Carthagena.

Mau rt Ta’ nt cus— Of, or from, Mauritania

Max’ 1 mum— Greatest.

ME LAN CHO! LI cus — Melancholic.

its

in allusion to the

pertaining to the

( SS ay Oe,
OR kee AS =: ‘2 Wier wy, or Ww Pais
MES EM BRY AN’ THE MUM—From_ wesembria, mid-

day, and anthemon, a flower; the flowers expand
most freely when fully exposed to the sun.

ME so po TA’ mI CcumM— Mesopotamian; of,
Mesopotamia.

Mex 1 cA’ NUM— Mexican.

Mi cro car’ pus—From mzkros,
fruit.

Mi mo’ sa— From 7270s, amimic; the leaves of many
of the species mimic animal sensibility.
My’ mu tus (i short)— From zzzm0, an ape

from the ringent corollas of the flowers.

My’ ni Mum — Smallest.

M1’ nor—Smaller.

Mri RA’ BI L1Is— Wonderful, admirable, extraordinary.

Mo mor’ pi cA— From zordeo, to bite; the seeds have

the appearance of being bitten.

Mon stro’ sus — Monstrous, strange, preternatural.

Mon Ta/ nA — Of, or from, a mountain.

Mos cua’ tus — Musky.

Mut TI cau’ LE— From mzltus, many,

stem; many stemmed or stalked.

Mut TI’ Co Lor, (i short) — Many-colored.

Mut T1 Fito’ RA — Many-flowered.

Mu ra’ Lis — Of, or belonging to, a wall.

Mor SEv’ Lit.

My o so’ t1s— From wzys, miyos, a mouse, and ofos, an
ear; a fancied resemblance in the leaves.

Myr si/ pHyL Lum— From myrsine, a myrtle,
phyllon, a leaf; resemblance of the leaves.

NAN KI NEN’ s1s— Belonging to Nankin.

Na’ nus — Dwarf. ‘

Nar BO NEN’ sis— Belonging to’ Narbonne.

Nar cis/ sus— A mythological youth; he was uncom-
monly beautiful, and fell so violently in love with him-
self on beholding his image in a fountain, that he wast-
ed away with desire, until he was changed into the
flower of the same name.

NE bu Lo’ sa— Cloudy, hazy, misty.

NeE mo’ pHILA—From zemos, a grove, and fhz/eo,
to love; the plants delight in a shady situation.

NE pa LEN’ sts— Belonging to Nepaul.

Ne’ rt uvm—From zeros, humid; alluding to the hab-
itat of the plant.

NE va DEN’ sis— From, or belonging to Nevada.

Nie REM BER’ G1 A, (Nie pronounced like Mee) — In
honor of John Eusebius Nieremberg, a Spanish Jesuit,
author of a History of Nature, Antwerp. 1635.

Ni Ge’ La, (g soft)—From xzzger, black; the black
seed, which is the part of the plant known in cook-
ery.

Nr’ tr pa (i short) — Shining, glossy.

No va’ NA—From zola, a little bell;
form of the corolla.

Nyc TA Gi NA’ CE ©— The name of a natural order of
plants, including the W/7raézlzs, (Four-o’clock,) Adro-
nia, &c. Name derived from xuwktos, night, and gex-
ests, to beget, be born; the flowers of many of the
species open at night or near sun down.

O BE LIs CA’ RI A— From obediskos, obelisk ;
to the elevated disc of the flower.

O cu La’ TuS— Having eyes, or spots like eyes.

O po RA’ TA — Odorous, fragrant.

CE No THE’ RA— From o7zzos, wine, and thera, a catch-
ing; the roots of @. dennis were formerly taken after
meals as incentives to wine-drinking.

OF FI cr Na’ LIs, (i short) — Of the office or shop; such
as prepared at the dispensary, or sold at the drug-
gist’s.

O LE AN’ DER — From the Latin lorandrum, corrupted
from rhododendron, from rhodon, the rose, and dex-
dron, tree.

or from

small, and sarfos, a

; so named

and caztlis, a

and

because of the

in allusion

O wa GRA’ CE © — The name of a natural order of plants,
of which the CEnothera, (Evening Primrose,) is a rep-
resentative genus; name derived from oxager, a mili-
tary engine for discharging large stones; the flowers of
some of the species of Evening Primrose,burst open
suddenly at dusk, with a slight noise.

O RI EN TA’ LE— Oriental.

O THON’ NA— From othone, linen; alluding to the downy
clothing of the original plant.

O va’ Tus — Ovate.

Ox a’ Lis— From oxys, acid; the leaves have an acid
taste.

Ox y v’ RA — Derivation and meaning of name uncertain.

Pa La Fox’ 1 A— Named in honor of Palafox.

Pav’ rr pus— Pale.

PA Lus’ TRIs— Marshy, swampy, from low, damp places

Pa ni cu LA’ TA— Paniculate; flowers forming a panicle

Pa’ NI cum—An ancient name for an Italian grass;
from panis, bread.

Pa pa’ VER— From ZafZa, pap, or thick milk; the juice
of the Poppy was formerly used in children’s food to
make them sleep.

Pa PA VE RA’ CE & — The name of a natural order of
plants, prominently represented by the Poppy, and
from which it receives its name.

Pa RA Dox’ A— Marvelous, strange, contrary to expec-
tation, paradoxical.

Par THE’ NI uM— From farthenon, avirgin; supposed
medicinal qualities.

PAR THE NI FO’ LI uM — Parthenium-leaved; leaves like
the Parthenium.

Par’ vum— Small.

PAs SI FLO’ RA— From gassio, passion, and fos, a flow-
er; flowers of the Passion; the early Roman Catholic
Missionaries of South America finding, in them, sym-
bols of the Crucifixion, — the crown of thorns in the
fringes of the flower, nails in the styles with their cap-
itate stigmas, hammers to drive them in the stamens,
cords in the tendrils.

Pa’ Tu La — Patulous, spreading.

Pa vo’ nt a—In honor of Don Josef Pavon, M. D., of
Madrid, a traveler in Peru.

Pr pa’ TAa— Pedate ; when leaves are cut in divisions,
and the lower divisions again lobed they are said to be
pedate.

PE NEL’ 0 PE— The wife of Ulysses and mother of Tele-
machus.

Pen NA’ TA— See Pinnatus.

PEN NI SE’ TUM— From Jenna, a feather, and sefa,a
bristle.

PEN TA PHYL’ LuM— Five-leaved.

PENT STE’ MON—From Zente, five, and stemon, a sta-
men; there are four perfect stamens and one imperfect.

PER EN’ NE, PER EN’ nNIS— Perennial.

Pe rit’ ta— Meaning unknown.

PE ROW SKI A’ NUM.

Pzr’ st cA— Persian.

Pr tu’ nr a— The Brazilian name for Tobacco is Petun ;
applied to this genus on account of ,its affinity to WVz-
cottana, Tobacco.

Pua ce’ 11 A— From Phakelos, a bundle; in reference
to the disposition of the flowers.

Pua La/ crE A— Phalacrine, belonging to Phalacria, an
ancient Italian town.

Pua sze’o tus—From phaselus,a little boat; fancied
resemblance in the pod.

Pic’ ra— Painted, embellished, adorned.

Pic Tu RA’ TA — Painted, pictured, variegated.

Pi Le’ a— From Zzleos,a cap; one of the divisions of the
perianth in Pzlea muscosa resembles a cap.

Pin na’ Tus— Pinnate; when leaflets are arranged along
the sides of a common petiole.

i>,

le on

% K Spm
AY) 4 ae \B
A> RK Te LESS Se

DS Y Ge
OWLS ae ee \\WWh

Oem ean —

PLa Ty CEN’ TRA— From A/atys, flat, and kentron, a
a spur, flat spurred.

Pia Ty cLa’/pa—From Jlatys, flat and klados, a

branch ; flat-stemmed.

PLa Ty srr’ Mon— From //atys, flat, and stemon,a
stamen.

Pie’ na— Double, full.

PLE nis/ st MA — Most double.

Po et’1cus—Of the poets, poetical, pertaining to
poetry. :

Po LE Mo NIA’ CE #2 —A natural order of plants, re-
ceiving its name from Polemonium, one of its genera.

Por tu La’ CA—From orto, to carry, and Jac, milk;
on account of the milky juice of the plants.

Por Tu LA CA’ CE #—A _ natural order of plants, of
which the Portulaca is a representative, and from
which it is named.

Po TEN TIL’ LA—From jofens, powerful; supposed
medicinal qualities of some of the species.

Ports’ 11.

Press’ tt 1— Referring to the Messrs. Prezl, of Prague,
botanists and authors.

Pri’ mu LA (i short)— From frzmus, first; in allusion
to the early flowering of the plants.

PRI MU LA’ CE #(i short)—A natural order of plants,
receiving its name from Primula, one of its genera.

Pro Bos Ci’ DE A (i short) — Proboscis-like, snout-like.

Pro cum’ BENs — Trailing on the ground.

Psy’ cHE— A maiden beloved by Cupid, made immor-
tal by Jupiter.

Pu pi’ cA —Shame-faced, bashful, modest.

Put CHER’ RI MA— Handsomest, most beautiful.

Pu’ cHRA — Beautiful, handsome.

Pu’ m1 LA— Dwarf.

Pu ni’ cE A (ishort)— Reddish, red, purple-colored.

Pur pu’ RE A— Purple, in its various shades.

Py rE’ THRUM— From /yr, fire; the roots are hot to-
the taste.

Qua’ Mo cLir—From fyamos, a kidney-bean, and
kiitos, dwarf; the species of this genus resemble the.
kidney-bean in their climbing stems.

Qui na’ TA — Quinate, with five leaflets.

QUIN QUE FO’ LI A— Five-leaved.

QUIN QUE VUL’ NE RUS— From guiugue, five, and vud-
nus, a wound,

Ra pi A’ TA— Radiate; furnished with ray flowers.

Ra’ pi cans — Rooting.

Ra po witz’ rt.

Ra mo’ sA— Branched, full of branches.

Ra nun’ cu LuSs— From vana, a frog; many of the spe-
cies are found in moist places frequented by that reptile.

Ra NUN CU LA’ CE =—A natural order of plants, in-
cluding the Ranunculus.

Ra NUN Cu Lo 1’ pES— Ranunculus-formed, resembling
the Ranunculus.

RA VEN’ N&.

Ree ve’ st 1— Referring to John Reeves, F. L. S., of
Canton, from whom the botany of China has received
material assistance, and to whom horticulture is in-
debted for many of its fairest ornaments.

Re T1 cu LA’ TA— Reticulated; interlaced with net-
work.

Re tu’ sus— Retuse; a leaf is said to be retuse when
there isa depression at the end where the point
should be.

Rex — The king.

Ruo DAN’ THE—From rkhodon,a rose, and anthos,a
flower; in allusion to the color of the flower-heads.

Ri cuar’ pi A (ch soft)—In honor of L. C. Richard,
an eminent French botanist.

Ri ci’ nus—From ricinus, a tick; resemblance in the
seeds.

Rca MERI A’ NA.

Ro’ sEA — Rose-colored.

Ro Tun pi Fo’ LI us — Round-leaved.

Rv’ Ber, Ru’ pra, Ru pro’ rum, Ru BER’ RI MA—Red,

SA LI CI FO’ LI us— Willow-leaved; from sadix,a wil-
low tree, and folzzs a leaf.

SAL PI GLos’ sis—From sadlsinx,a tube, and glossa,a
tongue ; alluding to the tongue-like style in the mouth
of the corolla.

Sau’ vi a— From sa/vo, to save; in allusion to the heal-
ing qualities of the sage.

SAN DER SO/ n11—In reference to John Sanderson,
Secretary of the Horticultural Society of Natal, South
Africa.

SAN FORD’ II.

SAN Gul’ NE us—Crimson; the color of blood.

SAN vi TA’ LI A— Derivation unknown; probably a
man’s name.

Sax a/ T1LE— From savratilis, that dwells or is found
among rocks.

Sca Br 0’ sA— From scaézes, leprosy ; some of the spe-
cies are said to be useful in cutaneous diseases.

Sca’/ BER — Rough, scurfy.

Scan’ pens— Climbing.

Scur zanw’ THUS— From schizo, to cut, and anthos, a
flower; in allusion to the irregularly divided corolla.

SCHEU ER I A/ NUM.

Scuutz’11 (Schultz, pronounced like Shoolts)— Refer-
ring to John Henry Schultz, an eminent German botan-
ist.

Sciz’ ta— From sfyZlo, to injure; the roots are poison-
ous.

ScCRO PHU LA RI A/ CE #—A natural order of plants, in-
cluding the Scrophularia, from which it receives its
name ; from scvophula, scrofula, from its supposed use
in the cure of the scrofula.

Scy pan’ THUS— From scyfhos, a cup, and azthos, a
flower; in reference to the shape of the flower.

SEL Low’ 11— In reference to M. Sellow.

SEM PER FLO’ RENS — Continuous flowering

SER P# FO’ LI A.

SE TI’ GE RA — Setaceous ;
coarse hairs or bristles.

SE To’ sa —Setous; full of coarse hairs or bristles.

Si Be’ rt cA— Siberian.

Si’ cu tum—Sicilian, of or from Sicily.

Srz Box’ p11 (Sie pronounced like See.)

Sr Le’ NE— From szadon, saliva; in allusion to the vis-
cid moisture on the stalks of many of the species, by
which the smaller kinds of flies are entrapped; hence,
also, the English name of the genus, Catchfly.

Si Le Na’ cE a—A natural order of plants, including
the Silene, and from which it receives its name.

Si NEN’ sts —Chinese.

Sr nu a/ TA—Sinuate, bending, winding.

Sxin’ NER 1— Referring to Captain Thomas Skinner,
a distinguished botanist.

So 1a’ num — Derivation uncertain.

So La nA’ cE #—A natural order of plants, containing
the Solanum, and from which it receives its name.

Som ni’ FE RuM (i short)— From somus, sleep, and /ero,
to bear; producing sleep.

SpE cr 0’ sa (eshort)— Showy, handsome, splendid, bril-
liant.

SPE cI 0 sis/ si ma (e short) — Superlative of speciosa.

Spe’ cu Lum (e short) — A looking-glass, mirror.

Spi ca’ ra —Spicate ; in the form ofa spike.

SPLEN’ pens— Bright, shining, glittering, brilliant.

Spra’ GuE A—In honor of Isaac Sprague, an American
botanical artist.

Sta/t1 cE—From statizo, to stop; in allusion to the
powerful astringency of some of the species.

bristle - bearing, having

Srrt La’ TA—Stellate ; starry, sparkling, glittering.

STE’ RI Lis (i short) — Sterile.

STE’ VEN I.

Sti’ pa — From sZzZe, a silky or feathery substance.

Srri A/ TA—Striate; striped.

Srric’/ rum — Bound or pressed together.

Stu AR’ TI I.

Su A VE 0/ LENS— Sweet-smelling, fragrant.

Sus ca ru’ LE vs—From szb, under, and cw@ruleus,
dark-colored, dark blue, coerulean; a shade somewhat
lighter than ccerulean.

Sut ca’ TumM— Furrowed, channeled.

SUL PHU’ RE US — Sulphur color.

Su PER’ BA — Superb.

Su st a‘ NA— From Szsza, the ancient capital of Persia.

Ta KES’I MA—A Japanese name.

TAN A CE TI FO’ L1 A— Tanacetum-leaved,
leaved.

TEN UI FO’ LI1A—From fexuzs,
and folius, a leaf; fine-leaved.

TER mi NA’ t1s — Terminal.

Trex a/ numM— Texan; from Texas.

THEL LUS SO’ NII.

Tuovu 1n’11—In reference to M. Thouin, Professor of
Agriculture at Paris.

THUN BER GI A’ NUM— Referring to Thunberg, a Swed-
ish botanist and traveler.

Ti Gri pia (i short)— From figrzs, a tiger, and ezdos,
like; in reference to the spotted flowers.

Ti Gri’ nus— Tiger-like; barred or spotted like a Tiger.

Tinc To’ r1 A— Pertaining to dyeing.

TRA DES CAN’ Tr A—In honor of John Tradescant, gar-
dener to Charles I.

Tri’ COL or (i short) — Three-colored.

TRI CHO SAN’ THES — From ¢hrzx, a hair, and axthos,a
flower; the corollas are ciliated.

Tri TO/ MA (i short)—From f¢rezs, three, and tezno, to
cut; in allusion to the three sharp edges of the ends of
the leaves.

TRI uM’ PHANS— Triumphant.

Tro P#/ o LuM— From ¢rofaion, a trophy; the leaves
resemble a buckler, and the flowers an empty helmet.

Tor’ reY 1—Referring to Dr. John Torrey, the Ameri-
can botanist.

Try CHO L&’ NA— Meaning unexplained.

Tu BE RO/ SA— Tuberous.

Tu’ rt PA—(Tulip,) Said to be from Thoulyban, its
Persian name.

Tweep’/ 1 A—In compliment to Mr. James Tweedie,
who was an intelligent and indefatigable collector of
plants in Brazil and Buenos Ayres.

Um BEL La‘ TA— Umbellate; having the flowers ar-
ranged in a round, flat head, with the peduncles origi-
nating from a common center.

U ni’ co Lor (i short) — One color.

VA LERI A’ NA— Said by some to be named after Vale-
rius who first used it in medicine; others suppose it
to be derived from va/ere, to be in health, on account
of the medicinal qualities of V. officinalis.

VA LE RI AN A’ CE &—A natural order of plants, con-
taining the genus Valeriana, from which it is named.

Va RI A’ BI LIS— Variable.

Verrcn’ 11— Alluding to the Messrs. Veitch, the cele-
brated florists, of England.

VE No’ SA-— Full of veins, veiny, venous.

Ve nus’ TUM—Lovely, comely, charming, pleasing,
winning, agreeable, graceful, beautiful.

Ve! RA— True, real, genuine.

VER BE’ NA— Said to be from its Celtic name Ferxfaen.

VER BE NA’ CE &—A natural order of plants, of which
Verbena is a representative, and from which it takes
its name,

or Tansy-

thin, fine, slender,

VER NA’ Lis— Pertaining to the spring; vernal.

VE RO’ NI CA — Derivation of the word is unknown.

VER SCHAF FELT’ 11— In reference to M. Verschaffelt,
horticulturist at Ghent.

Ver si’ cot orn— That changes its color; various colors,
party-colored.

Ves’ ta— The mythological goddess of flocks and herds
and the household*in general.

Vi pa’ Lis.

Vin’ cA— Probably from wzxculum, a band; in allusion
to the long, flexible shoots.
Vi’ o ta— The Latin name of the flowers, and perhaps
derived from zoz, another name of the same flower.
V1 0 La’ cE &—A natural order of plants, of which the
Violet is the principal genus, and from which it re-
ceives its name.

ViIR GI NI A/ NA — Virginian.

Vis cA’ R1 A— From viscus, birdlime; in allusion to the
glutinous stems.

Vis’ cr pA — Clammy, sticky, viscid.

——.

me He we ——~ Gy
aS aed ~
iz, BAN J A ‘

Uy Hr ae TAT ae oh sO re

Vit ta’ rA — Bound with a fillet or chaplet.

Vu Ga’ RIs — Common,

Wait’ zi a— Derivation uncertain.

Wars zE wic’/ z11—In reference to Joseph Von Wars-
cewicz, a Polish nobleman, and an ardent amateur
botanist and plant collector.

WASH ING TO NI A’ NUM — Referring to

WEL TO NI EN’ s1s— Of or from Welton.

Wuit La’ vi A— Named by the lamented Professor
Harvey, for his friend Whitla.

WIERCZz BECK’ I I (Wierc pronounced like Weerce.)

WRAN GEL I A’ NA.

WRIGHT’ Il.

XE RAN’ THE MUM— From -reros, dry, and anthemon,
a flower ; alluding to the dryness of the flower, which
retains its color and form for years.

ZE NO’ Bt A—A Queen of Palmyra.

Z1n’ nt A—In honor of John Godfrey Zinn, formerly a
Professor of botany at Gottingen.

Washington

re i

USEFUL TABLES.

Plants upon an Acre of Ground.

Distances apart. No. of Plants.

6 inches by 6 inches, . 174,240
1 foot by 1 foot, ; 43,560
14 foot by 1% foot,. . 19,360
2 feet by 1 foot, 21,780
2 feet by 2 feet, . . Esher ee Se ca, \ 3 SONOOO.
3 feet by, 20teetian ele ee Rs 387521012)
Buunlity of Seed usually

About.
Dwarf Beans, in drills,. . . 1 to 1¥% bush.
Pole Beans, in hills, . 3 to 12 qts.
Early Peas, in drills, . 1% bush.
Marrowfat Peas, in drills, . 4 bush.

@ormmonynills ee. acer ew Ue Ve Gee Sits:

Beet, in drills, . . . 4 to 5 lbs.
Carrot, in drills, . 2 to 3 lbs.
Cucumber, in drills, . 1 to 2 lbs.
Onion, in drills, . 4 to 6 lbs.
Parsnip, in drills, ee > i ato plbs.
Radish anidmillss.. Sis 4... . 6 to 8 lbs.
Spinach, in drills, . 8 to ro lbs.

oz. Asparagus will produce about

oz. Celery, Endive, or Lettuce, will produce sie
oz. Okra, or Spinach may be allotted for every . .

oz. Cucumber is sufficient for

oz. Musk Melon is sufficient for

oz. Water Melon is sufficient for .

. Pumpkin, or Squash is sufficient for
1 qt. Field Pumpkin is sufficient for . .

1 qt. Dwarf or Bush Beans is sufficient for
1 qt. Pole Beans is sufficient for .

1 qt. Peas is sufficient for . .

HOH HH HAAR AR
°
N

H
°
N

Seed required for a given number of Plants, &c.

oz. Brocoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Egg Plant, Kate, Tomiie eo! or 5 Pepper, :

. Beet, Onions, Radish, or Salsify, may be allotted fa aoe :
OZ. eanrot! Parsley, Parsnip, or Turnip, may be allotted for every. .

Distances apart. No. of Plants.

3 feet by 3 feet, 2)... nek
4 feet by'4' feet, 3. 0.0 Oeste ene eee
5 feet by 's feet, 270 eee eae te
6 feet by 6 feet.) 20%. ci) aa meee moray
Sifeet by.'8 feet, si... cai ae Wee 680
ro féetiby xo feet, 452.08 yt eee 435
sown upon one Acre.

About.
Squash, . . au ‘seb Vein agen erE ont
Salsify, in ARS : i . 6 to 8 lbs.
Sweet Corn, on soiling,). . 2 to 3 bush.
Turnip, . 1% lbs.

Chinese Stes Gane
Broom Corn, in ils

. Io to 12 qts.
. 10 to 12 dts.

White Clover, alone, . . 12 to 15 lbs.
Blue Grass, alone, i eg . 56 lbs.
Rye Grass, alone, . . .2 bush.
Orchard Grass, . 2 to 3 bush.
Mixed Lawn Grass, . . : . 4 bush.
Red Top Grass, alone, co ae Hr . . 4 bush.
. 500 plants.

. 3000 plants.

. 6000 plants.

. 100 feet of row.

. 175 feet of row.

. 200 feet of row.

. 150 hills.

. too to 125 hills.

. 40 to 60 hills.

. 40 to 80 hills.

. 400 to 500 hills.

. 200 yet of row, or 300 hills.
Mela hl 8 . 100 to 200 hills.
. . . 150 to 200 feet of row.

—> |;

Rear ey Uy “5 E & EX f

Rag Al ese ft

OS { Ke / MW, ; WA :

Ae Ay all’

te He es ; Bi\\ am Zi

As iy DS
1 Y v ff 2 .

yt
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yy \\ i)

THE first and most important section of our FLOwER GARDEN is composed mainly of
ANNUALS, that is, those plants that live but one season. The seeds are sown in the spring, the
plants arrive at maturity in the early summer, bud, blossom, ripen their seeds, and die in the
autumn, having performed their entire mission. This class of plants, from their nature, are
valuable treasures to both the amateur and professional gardener. ‘There is no forgotten spot
in the garden, none which early flowering bulbs or other spring flowers have left unoccupied that
need remain bare during the summer; no bed but can be made brilliant with these favorites, for
there is no situation or soil in which some of the varieties will not flourish, Some members
delight in shade, others in sunshine; some are pleased with a cool clay bed, while others are
never so comfortable as in a sandy soil and burning sun. ‘The seed, too, is so cheap as to be
within the reach of all, while a good collection of bedding plants would not come within the
resources of many, and yet very few beds filled with expensive bedding plants look as well asa
good bed of our best Annuals, like Phlox, Petunia or Portulaca, and for a vase or basket many
of our Annuals are unsurpassed. Though we risk our reputation for good taste, perhaps, in
making this statement, yet we have seen nothing better, and few things that we shall remember
longer or more pleasantly than a vase filled almost entirely with the striped Petunia, and showing
all day and every day hundreds of flowers. To the Annuals, also, we are indebted mainly for
our brightest and best flowers in the late summer and autumn months. Without the Phlox and
Petunia and Portulaca and Aster and Stock, our autumn gardens would be poor indeed, and how
we would miss the sweet fragrance of the Alyssum, Mignonette and Sweet Pea if any ill-luck
should deprive us of these sweet favorites. Many of our beautiful climbers, such as the Convol-
vulus and Coboea scandens, and nearly all our Everlastings and Ornamental Grasses are included
in this section.

This Department, however, embraces some Perennials, but only those that flower the first
season, though they do not die at its close, like the Annuals. Among these are the Pansy, Dian-
thus, Antirrhinum, &c., that live for several years under favorable circumstances. In our country,
however, most of these are usually short-lived, and are really only to be considered as hardy
Annuals. Under the influence of spring showers and summer suns they mature rapidly, and
flower so freely that by autumn the plants are so exhausted they cannot endure the rigor of our
winters, and in the spring are usually worthless, if not entirely lifeless. By removing a portion
of the flowers in the summer, and encouraging a vigorous growth, this class of plants will remain
in perfection at least two years. If seed is sown late in the spring, or even in summer, young
plants will give but few, if any, flowers the first season, and the second summer will be in perfec-
tion. Many of the flowers that we treat as Annuals, sowing fresh seeds and growing new plants
every year, because the plants are destroyed by frost in the autumn, are really Biennials or Per-

ennials in their Southern home.
55

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ABRONIA, N Nat. Ord. Myctaginacee.

BRONIAS are trailing plants, with prostrate branches, several feet in
@ oe AM/, length, and bearing clusters of sweet-scented flowers; somewhat

resembling the Verbena, both in flower and habit of plant, though
more robust. ‘The Abronias are natives of California, and in their
natural home make a beautiful flowery carpet. The yellow variety,
~ arenaria, delights in the most barren sand hills, and on the panda
of the Pacific Ocean, within a few feet of
high water, with no other sign of vegeta-
tion around, we have seen the clean white
sand hills made gay by this pretty plant,
which is known on the coast of California ®&
as the Sand-plant. Umdellata is a deli-
cate pink with a good deal of fragrance.
The seed does not always germinate freely, and the plants in some sections do not seem to grow
with their native vigor. Start’ the seed under glass, first removing the husky covering. The
Abronias, when they succeed, are deservedly admired, and therefore have some warm friends.

ADONIS, Nat. Ord. Ranunculacee.

The Adonis, a native of Europe, is of the easiest culture. The finely cut foliage is rather
pretty. The flowers, by no means abundant, are of an intensely deep blood red color, and cup
shaped. ‘The legend is that this flower sprang from the blood of
Adonis, when he was wounded by the boar. It will grow well in
the shade or under trees, and this we consider its principal recom-
=] mendation.. A clump under a tree or in a shady corner of the
garden, or under a hedge, or near a rustic summer house, is desir-
able, but we would not recommend it for
small gardens or limited collections. It
| @ isan everyday plant and will fill a modest
B, 5 place very satisfactorily ; butif we attempt
tomake much of it, or put it on exhibi-
\.. tion it will disappoint and mortify us.

<. Flowers, like people, have places where
| = they dothemselves and their friends credit,
~~ while in other situations there is gene-
ral disappointment and mortification. Seeds may be sown in the garden, and plants should be

about a foot apart.

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was
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AGERATUM, Nat. Ord. Composite.

A Mexican flower, of a brush-like appearance, not showy in the garden, but prized by florists,
because it bears a great many flowers, and keeps in bloom a long time, and is, therefore, desirable
for bouquet making. In fact, there are very few flowers that will work up to better advantage,
and give a more chaste appearance to a small
bouquet than the white or delicately tinted blue
Ageratum, and as it will grow well in the house,
is always a favorite with both amateurs and
florists. Its name has reference to the long con-
tinued flowering of the plant, and also of the fact
that the flowers will remain fresh for a long time
after being gathered, and a very liberal transla-
tion would be ever-young. It is well to start =
the seeds under glass, and then transplant to the
flowering fled. Take up the smallest plants in October, and pot at for winter use. If no
glass is to be had, select a mellow soil and a sheltered spot for the seed bed, and cover the seeds
but slightly. Set plants six or eight inches apart to form a bed in the garden. A few seeds
sown the latter part of August, if the soil is kept moist and shaded, will make young plants fit for
potting for winter flowers.

so it ele, bt

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UAV Z
= aS 2 ce

SAS) \ y

S(O s a vi SK

kG Se Pe rate: vay S) payin,

Poteg a ee os O KE,

MY Saat : Zak Ze we) ve ae.

AGROSTEMMA, (Viscaria,) Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

The annual Agrostemmas, or, more correctly, Viscarias, are very pretty, free blooming and
hardy annuals, making desirable beds and useful for cutting. The flowers are something like a
single Pink, and are borne on long, slender stems. The plants are
of a rather straggling habit, and produce abundance
of flowers with but very little foliage, so that a single
plant, or a few plants set widely apart, do not present
a very pretty appearance; but when planted thickly
in a bed, form a mass of color quite satisfactory, resem-
bling a good bed of the bright colored Phlox Drum-
mondii. This flower was introduced into England
from Sicily more than a hundred years since, and is
g still quite popular and common in English gardens, and is considered effective in
producing a mass of bright color. We have had very good results in sowing this
seed in the bed where it was intended to bloom, thinning out the plants but very little,
if any. We have been much pleased with it as a plant for edgings for beds of Gladiolus or
other tall plants. Grows about twelve inches in height, and should be set about six inches apart.

ALONSOA, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Alonsoas are natives of Chili and Peru, and when first introduced into Europe were
treated as green-house plants, but of late years have been generally cultivated as tender or half-
hardy annuals. Young plants removed to the house or green-house
in the autumn will continue to flower during the winter. The
flowers are small, but of remarkably brilliant colors, in which respect \

they are excelled by very few of our richly y
colored flowers. We have succeeded best SF ; ;
by sowing seed under glass and trans. ad ae Sy J

planting, in this latitude about the first of na
June, and as the plant is inclined to behard- » “We UF
wooded, any young plants taken up and av ~S+4NV/.3%

continue to grow and flower for a long eS. | T
time. This flower has been cultivated for *N~S@ NM ah oe _
about fifty years, and the improvement _ i 5
since its introduction has not been marked. =S

ALYSSUM, Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

The Sweet Alyssum is one of those modest plants that everybody likes and every one must
have. Its pretty little white flowers are so purely white, and so useful in making up all kinds of
small bouquets, and its fragrance, while sufficiently pronounced, so very
delicate, reminding one of the peculiar aroma of the hay-field, that no
florist feels satisfied unless he has a little bed of Alyssum that he can
resort to at all times when delicate flowers are needed. The Alyssum
grows freely from seed, either under glass or in the open ground, though
it does not germinate freely in the open ground in dry, hot weather.
For a low, white edging or border, the Alyssum is excellent, as its habit
fg) is good, and height only about six inches. ‘The little black flea that
. : age destroys Cabbage and Turnip in the seed-leaf is

Rees BK ® 2» exceedingly fond of Alyssum, and will destroy
whole beds. Dusting with fine ashes is of
ey advantage, and if a little fine snuff is mixed with
*" the ashes the effect is better. The Alyssum was

~ first found wild on the shores of the Mediterra-
nean, and is now found growing on the rocky
cliffs of some parts ot the English coast, but is supposed to have become naturalized; that is, the
seeds were accidentally carried from gardens to the fields and woods by birds or some other means.

c=
of

———————

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y, Wr —— dis} y+ Y : 2 TRO . N
Ro Bee hd SOA YE) ___ WS

AMARANTHUS, Nat. Ord. Amarantacee.

The Amaranthus embraces a large class of plants, and some of them so diversified im
character that, to the casual observer, they hardly seem to belong to the same family. They
are mainly, however, valuable for their ornamental foliage, the leaves of
most varieties being highly colored, while in some the form as well as.
color is desirable. The present popularity of ornamental leaved plants.
for bedding out renders this class more than usually interesting.
The great difference of habit makes it necessary to give engravings of the:
varieties, showing the more marked distinctions. The drooping flower
shows A. caudatus, sometimes called Love Lies Bleeding, a rather coarse
plant, yet graceful and excellent for autumn decoration, with racemes of
flowers sometimes two to three feet in length. Another variety, Prince’s
Feather, has flowers nearly similar, but arranged in erect spikes. The -
smallest engraving represents 62-
color, tricolor and several other
sorts of about the same
habit, though differing
in color. The large
engraving gives a very
- good representation of
salictfolius, or the
Fountain Plant, a free
growing plant that
sometimes reaches a
height of five feet or
more, and is a very
pretty object in a suit- |
able position. Thef!
Amaranthus are half-
hardy plants, and use- a
ful in many situations, as the back-ground of a flower bed, a bed on the lawn, or as an orna-
mental hedge. Ina rich soil, where plants make a vigorous growth, the varieties with bright
colors sometimes become dull. It is unfortunate that we cannot always rely on the color, no.
matter how fine the plants from which the seeds are derived, but success is most assured in a
warm, dry season, and in a light or rather poor soil. The Amaranthus is a native of the East.
Indies, but has been in cultivation in Europe since the days of Queen ELIZABETH, and in.
America since its first settlement. The name is a favorite with poets, and means never-wither
ing. The leaves of the species of Amaranthus are wholesome food, and many varieties are eaten:
in their native countries, like Spinach.

ANAGALLIS, Nat. Ord. Primulacee.

The genus Anagallis is remarkable for the beauty of its flowers, for even our wild scarlet
Pimpernel, or Poor Man’s Weather Glass, is one of the prettiest of our small wild flowers. The
improved garden varieties are very desirable for small beds, edgings,.
baskets, &c. The plants usually do not exceed six inches in height,
and when set in a bed thickly, cover the ground with a constant
profusion of rich flowers. The Anagallis has representatives among.
the wild flowers of a large portion of the world,
from some of which importations have been
made to America and Europe, and the hybrids.
obtained by our florists exhibit great improve-
ment. Sow under glass, if possible, and set
the plants not more than six inches apart.
; ; The Anagallis is one of those honest, every-
day flowers that, while it will not astonish any one, cannot fail to meet the anticipations of every
lover of flowers.

. z > yy R by J
an Ly : Cle PE his
2) q SF =. \\Cs a) ey
‘ Pe BAGS BLS BING z Ses NN ee
. —— wy -¢ _& SF ETT 7 aN = arma TAT me An =o Gi. rer», a are, ge ae WT Zi.

ANTIRRHINUM, (Snapdragon,) Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Antirrhinum, perhaps better known by its old and popular name, Snapdragon, is one of
the very best of our Perennials, and one that always gives a good account of itself the first season,
blooming abundantly all the first sum-
mer, even until after frost. Sometimes
the plants suffer in winter, especially
when permitted to exhaust themselves
by excessive flowering, but they gener-
ally flower well the second season, and
sometimes the third. When it is desir-
ed to keep the plants for flowering the
second or third season, never allow seed
to form; and if one half the plant is cut
down to near the surface of the ground
== about the middle of summer, new vig-
Z orous shoots will be produced for the
next season’s flowering. They exhibit a fine variety of colors and are exceedingly brilliant. Sow
either in the frame or garden, early in spring. Easily transplanted. Set six to nine inches apart.
The Antirrhinum is easy to grow and sure to please, and we ask those who do not cultivate this
flower to give it a trial.

ARGEMONE, Nat. Ord. Papaveracee.

The Argemones are free blooming hardy annuals, with large flowers, resembling a single
Poppy, while the leaves are armed with slender prickles, and very much resemble Thistle leaves,
hence the Argemone is known almost every where as the Prickly
Poppy. Natives of Mexico and Peru, and some of the species
were introduced into Europe more \
than two hundred years since.
The plants grow two feet in height

\ Ww

I
Ipyka

SANA Q\
nd make a very good low screen = ree i «
ie ( SE SG
. Yy ava sw = NSN

or hedge, for which purpose set the Y j VV

plants about ten inches apart in the
rows. The foliage is not only
large and very pretty in form, but
of a pleasant light green color, and
it can be easily imagined that with 2&
its large, Poppy-like flowers a
hedge of Argemone must be an interesting object. Very few summer hedges will look better.
The engraving shows the flower less than one-half the natural size.

ASPERULA, Nat. Ord. Rubiacae.

Asperula azurea setosa is a profuse blooming hardy little annual from the Caucasian Moun-
tains, and only introduced to cultivation a few years since. It is of dwarf habit, growing less
than a foot in height, and bearing many clusters of small, light blue
or lavender, sweet-scented flowers. This is one of the class of
pretty, neat little flowers which some persons admire on account
of their delicate beauty, and which many condemn as weedy and
worthless, because they make no show in the garden. For making

: up in small bouquets the Asperula is all that
can be desired. The engraving shows the
habit of the plant as well as the size of the
flower, and from this a pretty good idea may
= be obtained of the use to which it is adapted.
We design to be quite particular on this
point, because many of our choicest little gems are evil spoken of, just because their friends do

",
X

not give them a proper introduction.

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o

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7: zy Sees sae Sart ONS) ae ore EW a

——- Cahod

ASTER, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Aster was popular when we had our little garden nearly halfa century ago. We used
to call it then CHINA ASTER, but those children who wished to be very nice would say Reine
mine ne and would often get laughed at for preferring so hard a name, just because it was

| French. The Aster was sent to France from China by a Missionary,

and the English name means China Star, while the French is Queen

\ Daisy. Is was then a single, showy flower, bearing not much more
a senile to the Aster of to-day than the Mayweed does to the
Dahlia. However, we thought it very pretty, and it afforded us a

| great deal of pleasure. We never see a poor single flower come up
f among the good ones, and we occasionally find such, but we are

| ee reminded of early days and childish friendships. We thought an
( Ir — WN engraving showing the character of the Aster as it was when imported

might be interesting to our readers, and therefore give a small sketch.
\ The Aster now is a general favorite, and its popularity is on the
increase. For an Autumn show of flowers, we were about to say, we have not its equal, but we
are reminded that when we get enthusiastic over any of our special favorites, we are ready to say
the same thing about a good many. Perhaps we can safely say that for an autumn display it has
no successful rival among the Annuals. Give the Aster a deep, rich soil, and mulching with
coarse manure is very beneficial, and if extra fine flowers are needed for exhibition or any other
purpose, a little liquid manure occasionally will give the most gratifying results. Plants may be
grown in the hot-bed, cold-frame, or a seed-bed in the garden, but to obtain good flowers the
Aster plant must be strong and “stocky.” A plant that is what garden-
ers call «‘drawn” will never produce very fine flowers. A “ drawn’
plant is one that, by being crowded in the seed-bed, or some other
cause, has become tall, slender and weak. The Aster transplants easily.
Twelve inches apart is the proper distance for making a showy bed of the
large varieties; the dwarf kinds may be set six inches or less. It is not
best to have Asters flower too early in the season, and there need be no
haste in starting seed in the spring, for the Aster, like the Dahiia, is
essentially a Fall flower, and the flowers are always the largest and most
perfect and enduring in the showery weather and cool, dewy nights of 7
Autumn. The tall varieties with large flowers need a little support, or
during storms of wind and rain they are often blown down and their
beauty destroyed when in full blossom. Set a stake in the ground near
the main stem, so that its top is only about two-thirds the height of the plant. Then fasten the
main branches to this stake, not in the way too common, which is merely to pass a string around
the whole plant, stake and all, thus injuring both foliage and flowers. The proper way is to
attach several strings to the stake, so that they will not slip down, then pass each one around two
or so of the main branches in a kind of loop or sling, so that the plant will retain its natural
position, and may be swayed by the wind without receiving the least injury. We have endeavored
to show how this is done in the accompanying engraving. Asters are so very dissimilar in habit,
ranging from the little dwarf, scarcely six inches in height, to the stately plant of
more than three feet, and bearing flowers almost as large as a Pzeony, that a few
words seem necessary to prevent persons purchasing what they do not desire.
The smallest of the family is the little Dwarf Bouguet, represented in the engrav-
ing, fig. 9, which presents a bouquet of flowers about five or six inches in height,
with scarcely a leaf. These are excellent for borders around beds. The Dwarf
Pyramidal Bouquets, represented by engraving, fig. 10, make plants from ten to
twelve inches in height. Next in height is the Vew Schzller, about fifteen inches,

====== which we represent on this page. It will be seen to be of very peculiar habit,
the Teves being almost entirely at the base of the plant, and drooping. Another class, like the
Imbrique Pompon and Chrysanthemum-flowered, grow from eighteen inches to two feet in height,
while the tallest class, represented by the Mew Rose, Perfection, and others, range from two to
three feet.

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BALSAM, (Impatiens,) Nat. Ord. Balsaminacee.
ALSAMINA, like the Aster, is one of the most beautiful and popu-

a
TE

WZ, /\ lar of out Annuals. Like that flower, too, it is an old favorite,
LE Wl iN Uy =§=andso much improved during

“<Lipe ee d; WAZ the last quarter of a century,
oO) AN that it scarcely bears a resem-

blance to the old flower. We
7 givean engraving of the Ba/-
> sam, which many of our read-
ers will recognize as the
Ladys Slipper of other days ;
and though they formerly
thought it handsome, and
have a right to think so
now, if they wish, yet it ~
must be acknowledged there is a great improvement in this flower, and that the poor, single
blossom so prized because associated with years and thoughts and friends of the past, is far
inferior to the double, rose-like flower of to-day. Our climate is wonderfully adapted to the
growth of the Balsam. In some parts of Europe it requires a great deal of nursing to secure
good plants; almost hot-house treatment. No flower pays better for a

WY (ff
~ , little extra care, in the way of enriching the soil—a little guano water and
5 CaN . 6 5 5 :
XY GRAY Wi the like. We have grown side branches of Balsam two inches in diam-
‘\() TNR) LW é
wi OWN Ney cter at the base, two feet in length, and perfect wreaths of flowers. Sow
WE Sy" SU. : : : .
BS ee in a frame or in a sheltered bed in the garden in the spring, as soon as the
ed weather is rather warm
OWA ; 5 ;
LEON AN Transplant when the second
YON; I :
Gree eae SS leaves have made a little
Fer ee
KS growth. Set the plants ten or
SFA OBE A

twelve inches apart, and when
the side branches appear,
= pinch off all but three or four,

"72-2 and pinch out the center shoot. :
Those left will then grow strong, and the flowers will not be concealed
case when the plant is left unpruned. A very good way is to keep all the side shoots pinched off,
leaving only the leading one. This will grow two or three feet in height, and be a perfect wreath
of flowers. Treated in this way, they will bear close planting. Some people, however, prefer the
Balsam unpruned, and we advise to try several plans. It is quite interesting to watch the results
of such treatment. The engravings show the effect
of pruning. Fig.1, Dwarf Balsam of natural growth ;
fig. 5, same pruned to five branches; fig. 2, common
Balsam of natural growth; fig. 38, plant pruned to one
branch ; fig. 4, pruned
to three branches ; fig.
6, flower of natural
size. hee, Jixtra
Dwarf Balsams grow
only about six inches
in height, while the
tall varieties often
reach nearly three
feet* im ayrich soil:
With the choicest

GN Wis.
Y Vo ‘
\

OLD BALSAM. seed the Balsam oc-

casionally insists on giving only semi-double flowers, BALSAM IMPROVED.
and no one can tell why. Many think that old seed produces flowers more double than new.
62

[oy

Yeon iL,
SOnees f :
AMT. $a QA DZ ;

BARTONIA, Nat. Ord. Loasacee.

Bartonia aurea is a very showy, half-hardy annual. It is a native of California, and was
found there nearly forty years ago by the unfortunate DouGLas, who discovered so many
ornamental annuals in California and South America, which he
introduced to European florists, and who finally sacrificed his life to
his botanical zeal by falling into a pit placed
to entrap wild cattle, on the Sandwich Is-
lands, while on a botanical excursion. The
leaves are somewhat thistle-like in appear-
ance, gray and downy. ‘The flowers are
double the size shown in the engraving, of a
very bright, metallic yellow, and exceed-
= ingly brilliant in the sunshine. It likes
considerable moisture, and in a drouth the
young plants sometimes suffer. We saw it flowering beautifully, in June, on the mountain sides
in the neighborhood of the Yosemite Valley, but not in large quantities. As it does not bear trans-
planting very well, we sow seed in the garden early, and in that way get good plants and flowers.

BRACHYCOME, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Brachycome iberidifolia is a daisy-like flower, found on the banks of the Swan River, in
Australia, and sometimes called Swan River Daisy. It is an elegant little plant, growing only
about eight inches in height, of a branching, compact habit, De
with deeply cut foliage and abundance of flowers, of the size
and appearance of which our engraving will give a good idea,
and bearing more resemblance to the Cin-
eraria, perhaps, than any other flower.
Colors blue and white, with a dark eye.
For a bed or mass, set the plants six or
eight inches apart. Neither this simple A
description nor the engraving will give
the reader a sufficiently favorable idea of 3
the pretty, daisy-like flowers, and the —
compact, rounded form of this beautiful plant, which is deserving of far more attention than it
has ever received.

BROWALLIA, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Browallias are excellent, free flowering, half-hardy annuals, mostly from South America.
The flowers are beautiful and delicate, the engraving showing the natural size. Seeds grow quite
freely and the plant gives abundance of bloom. Plants about eighteen
inches in height, and should be set a foot apart. This, though not a
showy, is a very interesting class of flowers; in fact, they belong, like the

Dam Clarkia, the Nemophila, and Whitlavia, to a modest,
| and therefore unappreciated, family, which we like much

Pe ted enough to please everybody, and we do not like to be
the cause of disappointment, even to unreasonable
people. For several years past, however, the taste for
the culture of the more delicate flowers has been rapidly
7A id wes % improving, and instead of being scolded for over-praising
MEE some little favorite, it will be recollected, many readers

~ have complained because we said so little when so much
could be spoken with truth. With this progress we are well pleased.

5 % g on 4p
LR: Ai) ALE SE
A) PI R EA i. ( A ») EYEE

Hix eee a pe) Ze Noa
CACALIA, Nat. Ord. Composie.

ACALIAS are pretty half-hardy annuals, with small, tassel-like
flowers, and from the form of the flower, often called Flora’s Paint
Brush. The flowers are borne in clusters on slender stalks, about
a foot or so in length. The appearance of
% the Cacalia in the bed is quite satisfactory,
and for cutting these little flowers are always
in request. There are two varieties, scarlet
and orange. Sow seed under glass, and set
the plants in the flowering bed about six
inches apart. This little flower is a native of
the East Indies. The principal merit of the
flower is that it continues in bloom from early

summer until late autumn, throwing up its tall |
branching and tasseled flower stems, and furnishing flowers for cutting every day for several months.

CALAN DRINIA, Nat. Ord. Portulacacee.

A very pretty genus of plants, with somewhat succulent stems and fleshy leaves, as might be
expected, being of the Purslane family. The plants are more or less prostrate, some varieties as
much so as the Portulaca. The best of the species are natives of South
America. They endure heat and drouth like the Por-
tulaca, and are peculiarily well adapted for rock
work, mounds, &c. Flowers large, abundant and x
continuous through the summer. The engraving —
shows the flower about one-third the natural size of ES
most of the varieties. It is best to treat the Calan- =
drinia as a half-hardy annual, and sow under glassy.) 5S
but very good success may be had by sowing in the open ground, especially in a light, sandy soil.

Sz, 1

CALENDULA, (Marigold,) Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Calendula is the old and well known Marigold family which every one knows, but may
not recognize by this name. The name was given because some of the species were supposed to
ens be in flower every month of the Calendar.
The C. officinalis is the old Pot Marigold,
which, according to the old belief, possess-
ed wonderful medical virtues, and as a pot
herb had great merit, and which now
=. some Englishmen think gives a delicious
ADS Za = flavor toa leg of mutton. The English
4 i name is a corruption of Mary’s gold, on
| account of the value of this plant as a pot herb to English cottagers’ wives.

The single varieties are not much cultivated, but the double are still popular.

CALLIOPSIS, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The genus Calliopsis embraces a very useful and brilliant class of hardy annuals. The plants
are tall, usually two or three feet in height, and though of slender habit are of vigorous growth.
The flowers embrace every shade of yellow, orange and rich, reddish
brown, verging to red or crimson. Some
varieties are finely marked. The flowers
on slender foot stalks, and very abundant,
so that when sown in groups, which is the
best method, the effect of the waving S\\ps
flowers is very fine. Our engraving shows @@
one of the varieties with a beautiful eye, ~~~ ante
and the real English of the Greek word Calliopsis is “ Beautiful Eye.”
the open ground or under glass.

SASS) Pe
=o) ba &
Yi A
Pai fh r=
WH S a) EAT =

CALLIRHOE, Nat. Ord. Malvacee.

A species of Mallow-like plants, natives of America, with large, purplish flowers, about twice
the size of the engraving, and showing a white center, which gives the flower a very beautiful
appearance. ‘They are five-petaled, and about two inches across.
The filaments of the stamens are united in a columnar tube, which
bears a tuft of many stamens at the end.
Height of plant about two feet, though
there is a dwarf variety, growing only about
- one-half this height. Seeds under favor-
=. able circumstances will grow freely in the
= ~ open ground. Thin out the plants so that

they will be about a foot apart. The Cal-
lirhoe commences to flower when only about six inches high, and gives abundance of its pretty
flowers through the summer until frost.

CAMPANULA, Nat. Ord. Campanulacee.

The Campanulas are a large genus, embracing a great many beautiful and popular Perennials,
like the Campanula Medium, or Canterbury Bell, which we shall describe in the department
devoted to flowers that bloom the second season. In the Campanulacee
there are supposed to be over two hundred species, and natives of
the colder portions of America, Asia and Europe, and scarcely any
found in warm countries. The famed Blue Bells of Scotland, (the
Hare-bell of America,) is the best known species. There are quite a@
number of annuals of great value for forming masses, as
they are neat in habit, hardy, and free bloomers. Seed
may be sown in the open ground or under glass. In the
flowering bed plants should be five or six inches apart, “Xj
so as to form a mass and entirely cover the soil. The
flowers of the annual varieties are small compared with 3 7=
the perennials, and the prevailing colors white, blueand =——~™SO
rose. They are simple, neat little flowers, not very desirable as single plants, but quite effective
in masses.

CANWNA, Nat. Ord. Marantacee.
The Cannas are stately plants, with broad green, highly ornamental leaves, giving to our
Northern gardens a tropical appearance, exceedingly pleasant. Although
the Canna looks well when grown singly, yet we must look for the most
desirable effects when grown in clumps or groups, or when to the Canna is
devoted a whole bed on some portion of the lawn. There are several varie-
ties, the leaves of some being entirely green, while in others the leaf-stem,
midrib and veins are red. Some kinds also grow three or four feet in
height, while others are of a somewhat dwarfish habit, being only about two
feet. The Canna is also very useful, when grown in pots, for indoor deco-
rations, such as halls. porches, etc. The Canna makes good large plants
from seed the first season after planting only under favorable circumstances,
so that those who depend upon seeds for their show of plants for the sum-
mer, should encourage growth in every possible way, therefore, soak the
seeds 1n hot water for several hours before planting. Ina cold climate, seed ©
must be sown under glass, and indeed it is well to grow the plants in pots.
so as to get them of good size before the weather is warm enough to turn them into the garden,
for unless the plants are strong when set out they will not produce much effect the first year.
Many of my customers on the rich soils of the Southwest succeed admirably with the Cannas,
not only making a fine show the first summer, but plants of enormous size. In ordinary places,
where there is no convenience for hot-bed, potting, &c., it is well to purchase roots, which can be
obtained of good size in the spring. In the autumn take up the roots and keep them in the
cellar in sand, to be planted again the following spring. The flowers are pretty but not showy.
65

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Wiaxei ie 2 ye

( SEs,
—~AFKTTT® 5 CT77/mIN ;
icc We

CANDYTUFT, (Iberis,) Nat. Ord. Cruciferae.

The Candytuft is an old, popular, hardy annual that every one at all conversant with flower-
is acquainted with. It is the same flower now that it was two hundred years ago, the improve.
g ment in its character being very

AY) ANN) ty GF 23
= only eal ZB Pee _& » Voy :
HARON AG RPM GE De Cee slight. Although the Candytuft
i WSS ay CAC CIA SFY Fees. 1s
= QA D Ey Gp a GE] crows so freely that it is not con-
s Ae . bey / <P besa ST if
A I\E Z sidered necessary to give it any par-

* ticular care, yet it appreciates a
little extra culture, as those who
take a plant or two for extra good

== treatment will be fully aware after

the trial. A little manure water occasionally, with a thorough softening of the soil around the
the plant, and a thinning out of the too numerous clusters of buds, will produce heads of flowers
three inches across. The Candytufts are a treasure in the hands of
the florist for bouquet making, especially the white varieties, because.
the flowers are so small and the white so pure, and because by
sowing a little patch occasionally flowers can be
had at any time, winter or summer. Several
times, crimson, carmine and other bright color-
ed Candytufts have been announced among the
Novelties, but until this summer we never found
any better than the old purple, or much differ-
ent. We now have a good bright rose, which
is a most valuable acquisition. Seed should be
sown where the plants are to bloom, either inthe =
fall or as early in the spring as possible. The
general form of the Crimson, Purple, Lilac etc., is shown in the engraving; also the Rocket,
which bears its flowers in spikes.

CASSIA, Nat. Ord. Leguminose.

Cassia chameecrista is a very good annual indeed, with pretty, light green foliage, like the
Sensitive Plant, and plenty of bright, golden yellow flowers. '
It is of dwarf, compact habit, about eighteen inches in
height, has the appearance of a little hard-wooded shrub,
Jy ge and makes a very pretty border. It is a native of the West
[4 W44 and Southwest, and entirely worthy of culture. Persons
Vi %,) who see this flower first in its wild state are so delighted
with it, and so anxious to have others share their pleasure,

I =e

2 AY WA es < that samples of both flowers and seeds are sent us by the
S — SX “hundred. We judge from the demand made upon us for

me seeds by European seedsmen and florists, that this native
American is attracting considerable attention. Sow under glass or open; set plants a foot apart.

CATCHFLY, (Silene,) Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.
There are a great many Silenes with small flowers and not very great beauty. The prettiest
of all is S. Armeria, and generally ca Ge

Z
=

known as Lobel’s Catchfly, named ‘ He WW
after LOBEL a distinguished old botan- ) ;

ist of Flanders. Nearly all the species
of this genus have a viseid moisture
on their stalks, in which it is said flies
are sometimes entrapped, therefore the
Catchfly part of thename. The Silene
Armeria is a free flowering hardy
annual, growing over a foot in height,
with small flowers, red, white or rose. Set plants six inches apart so as to form a clump.

INS
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= ys

APE BS Me a JES > AAG,
pS eee ER, AVY Peg
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CELOSIA, Nat. Ord. Amarantacee.

The Celosias are interesting and singular annuals, and when well grown, from seed of good
quality, never fail to please the grower and attract tke attention of his friends. In Europe they
are grown in pots for floral exhibitions and also for table decorations, but
in most parts of America they gro-v so freely in the open ground that this
treatment is not necessary to form most superb
plants, though for exhibition purposes extra
good plants in pots would be very convenient
and useful. There are two desirable forms of ¢ Si
the Celosia, the Cockscomb and the Feathery, —@#%
the former being the most curious and far
the most popular. When true, the latter
forms a feathery head that is very pretty, but it
is not always reliable, and we have discarded
all but one or two varieties of this form that
usually come good and true. Of the old-
fashioned Cockscomb, represented by the
small engraving in the center, seed can now be
obtained of excellent quality, that with good culture, in a rich soil, will
give heads from six inches to a foot across, and soine who read this article
will, no doubt, be ready to say they have grown them nearly twice this
size, for in the rich soils of the West, and with comparatively good culture, they make combs of
wonderful size. Four years ago we obtained a new Cockscomb from Japan, which we named the
Vick’s Fapan Cockscomb, and which far excels every other variety in the brilliance of its color and

V2 PID A oD Sa

\
ANY

the beauty of its Seed ior sale. =) It
comb. We kept it not only sustains its
on our own grounds original character,
on trial for, two but seems to like the
years, and was so Amercan climate

charmed with its
great beauty as well

as its distinctness of

and soil. Last sum-
mer it was more bril-
liant than ever be-

character - that in z fore. The usual form
1873 we offered the SSS of the plant is shown
in the first engraving at the left, while the cut on the right exhibits the usual form of the combs,
with a bright scarlet edging ruffled like the most delicate lace. In many specimens the comb is
so nicely cut as to resemble the finest coral both in form and color, and this appearance we have
endeavored to show in the lower engraving at the right. Some of the side branches also assume
this square instead of the comb form. Oc-
casionally a plant has the form of the lower
engraving at the left, being a mass of combs
with scarcely a leaf. The branches from the
roots to the smallest leaf-veins are scarlet or
crimson. It flowers earlier than the old vari-
eties and keeps in bloom until frost. The
seed germinates readily in the hot-bed, and
will bear plenty of bottom heat, but needs
abundance of air. The form of the feathered
Celosia is shown by a drawing of a branch,
found at the right of the central engraving:
A spike of Celosia spicata rosea may also be
seen at the left. These spikes are pinkish, three or four inches long,
and nearly an inch in diameter, and may be cut and dried like an Everlasting, retaining both form
and color nearly as well as the Helichrysums. This flower is known in some locations as the
Lady’s Finger.

CENTAUREA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Centaureas are a very large family, and some of the members bring no very great
credit to the household, many English farmers think when they see the Blue Bottles among the
Wheat, and the Knapweed in the pastures. Itis, of course, a little
flattering to our national pride to be able to say that the handsomest
and best of the tribe are Americans. Some English Botanists, we
know, think that one bad fellow emigrated from
America, naturalized, and took up his abode in
England, but we have never acknowledged the
truth of this charge, and do not design to do so

without better proof. The Centaureas are per-
fectly hardy, and some of the best varieties are

really fine. C. Americana, is sometimes called
Basket Flower, because the calyx has the appear-

=e ance of a basket filled and overflowing with the
hair-like petals. We have endeavored to show the appearance of this flower in the engraving.

CENTRANTHUS, Nat. Ord. Valerianacee.

There are several varieties of perennial Centranthus, differing not very materially from the
Valerians, that is, for the purposes of the florist. C. macrosiphon is a very pretty annual species,
for which we are indebted to Spain. It has a light green, hol-
low, almost transparent stem, delicate branches, with light,
glaucous leaves. The flowers are small and borne in clusters, Sy
as shown in the engraving, and for a pretty win
bed or mass of delicate flowers, or fora
little reserve for cutting, we may search a
long time before we find anything to sur-
pass the little Centranthus. The word
macrosiphon means long-tubed, and as will =
be seen by the engraving, these flowers ®
have long, slender tubes. We have had
no difficulty in getting a good growth from the seed, either in the open ground or under glass.

CHAM ZEPEUCE, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Chameepeuce is a very singular and rather elegant Thistle-like plant, with the prettiest
variegated leaves and the sharpest spines imaginable. It is perennial,
living several years, but not blooming until the second year, though this
is of very little consequence, as the beauty is in the foliage and not the
flowers. It is perfectly hardy in this section, the self-sown seed having
produced plants on our grounds for several years. It is much used in

= some parts of the world for decorative purposes, a good plant in a pot,
looking quite as well as a young Century Plant or any thing of this character.

CLEOME, Nat. Ord. Capparidacee.

The Cleomes are. very good half-hardy annuals, obtained, we believe, first from South America,
and now pretty generally cultivated. At first it was thought to be a green-house annual, but
latterly has been classed with the fe
half-hardy annuals in England, and 3
in America it does exceedingly well, “St
flourishing in our hottest, driest = "Zz Vr
seasons. The Cleomes have very ..)"\
singular flowers, as will be seen by ss q Y
the engraving, the stamens looking Ze
like spider’s legs. The Cleome is a
plant well worthy of culture. 3
Growth about eighteen inches, and =
plants should be set about a foot apart.

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Se Ni.ar Ye DUNS TPR NL. NON PTI PIA? PST Ei

CLARKIA, Nat. Ord. Oxagracee.

When once in the County of Essex, in England, wandering about in search of flowers and
their intelligent cultivators, we neared an old-fashioned village, called St. Osyth, and in its
neighborhood we saw immense
fields ablaze with bright colors,
acres each of pink, red, white,
purple, lilac, and which a closer
view proved to be masses of
Clarkia, being grown for the
seed. Wherever amass of bright
colers is desired, the Clarkia is
the most effective annual in the
hands of the English florist. It
give good early spring flowers.

COLLINSIA, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Collinsia is a very pretty, free blooming, hardy annual, that we always liked, but never so
well as since we saw it growing wild in California, and which awe
we mistook when at a distance for some new species of Lupin.
The marbled, or many-colored,
flowers are in whorls of five or six
blossoms, and three or more of these
whorls on each flower stem. The
upper lip of the flower is white or
pale lilac, and the lower one dark
purple. About eighteen inches in 2
height. We have had very good suc- -
cess with fall planted seeds in a dry soil, but would hardly like to advise this plan generally.

CON VOLVULUS, Nat. Ord. Convolvulacee.
Every one knows the Convolvulus major, the old and loved Morning Glory, which will be
found described among the Climbing Plants, but all are not conversant
with the Dwarf Convolvulus, C. mznor. It is a dwarfish plant, of a
trailing habit, each plant covering a circle per-
haps two feet in diameter, or more. The
flowers are about two-thirds the size of those of
the Morning Glory, and a bed of the Dwarf
= Convolvulus forms beautiful mass; and were
~ it notthat the flowers are closed during the latter
part of the day, the same as Convolvulus major,
few plants would give more satisfaction. | The engraving shows the flower one-half natural size.

CREPIS, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Crepis are pretty plants that almost every one would like in a large collection, but which
we would not recommend to those who cultivate but few
flowers, except once for trial or acquaintance. There is great
pleasure in forming a personal acquaintance with strange
flowers by culture, just as much as in
traveling among new scenes in strange
lands; at least,so we think. There are
several varieties of the Crepis, yellow, pur-
ple, pink and white, all hardy annuals,
about one foot in height, and bearing deli-
cate, pretty flowers. The engraving shows -=2
the full size of the flower. Plants should :
be about eight or ten inches apart. Seed —=a@ge=—=ae <>
will germinate if sown in the open ground, but we generally put a pinch or two in the hot-bed.

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i rrr Se AE

DATURA, Nat. Ord. Solanaceae.

‘ ATURA is a large, strong-growing plant, with trumpet-shaped
LY GE x flowers, the best varieties bearing blooms six inches i in length,
oS W mostly white, and sometimes tinted with a
) delicate blue. No one ever flowered a
' good Datura for the first time who was not
a good deal more than pleased, and no one
ever had a blooming plant in his garden
that did not receive a large share of the at-
tention and admiration of visitors. This is
due very largely to its great size and purity
of color. There are several double varie-
ties, in fact, the Datura seems to double in
almost every style, but we prefer the single
=== kind. The roots of one variety, Wrightit,
will usually endure he winter and flower for several seasons, but any of the roots can be pre-
served in a cellar, like Dahlia roots. Plants two feet in height; set plants two feet apart.

DELPHINIUM, Nat. Ord. Ranunculaceae.

The Delphiniums are beautiful, free blooming, popular plants, and generally known as Lark-
spurs on account of the peculiar formation of the flower, which has a fancied resemblance to the

Wy) spur of that favorite European song-bird, the Lark. There are several very desir-
ne > able Perennials, which will be found described in the proper department, and also
OG WP quite a number of annuals, all hardy and good. The Larkspurs prefer a cool soil
ANGE’ and season, plenty of moisture, and a little shade a
ei an will do no injury. Sow the seeds in the autumn, oD

Re Z B Wg or very early in the spring, so as to have the és Ay i
a at . benefit of cool, early, showery weather. Among eu ) S i) in a
as ity the annuals, the Rocket varieties are perhaps the Bees i FNS ee ee
Ny tavorites. They send sa a Maah “¥ 60°:
Z on re up a tall spike, as shown a aN ORR 7
Ah borat in the engraving, which SB Be ae A,
PRU gives the name, and a N Uh ing ea
SE: ee S bed of these varieties is 2 Ay oe
eis Ne: _~N truly gorgeous. The a a Si“ of 5)
Rel ( 3 > appearance of a good ef TAK te
é ON, ON double flower is shown Be
SW in the small engraving. mS
SWZ / There are several varie- oe) Ne

ties that make rather large, branching plants, and as these have abundance of flowers on strong
stems, are especially desirable for cutting. | A somewhat new variety, called Candelabrum, is
shown in the engraving. The branching varieties grow about two feet in height, and should be
planted about eighteen inches apart. The Rockets should be set in rows five or six inches apart.
Sow the seed where the plants are to bloom. Larkspurs continue in flower only a short time.

DIDISCUS, Nat. Ord. Agiacee.

The Didiscus cceruleus is a truly handsome Australian plant, about two feet in height, with
numerous umbels of sky blue flowers. The appearance of both plant and flower we have endeav-
ored to show in the engraving. While,
like others we have before described, we
do not think this flower will ever become

7 ay)
a Zp 1S ee sa generally cultivated, yet it is too pretty to

be omitted from our list. If seeds are
sown and plants well forwarded in the
hot-bed, bloom may expected about the

ae first of July; but if in the open ground, not
until the latter part of the month. It is pence if possible, to sow under glass.

- nan

= SY Ahk Ee

TE, = 45 . e ( ek By
I SWZ Tage
Seer nla. ptt = — ee ) Bee WA ae

DIANTHUS, Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

A splendid genus of the most beautiful perennials grown. The Sweet William, (Dianthus
barbatus,) the Carnation and Picotee, (D. caryophyllus,) and the Garden Pink, (D. hortens?s,)
belong to this genus; but, as they do not flower
until the second season, will be described in the
proper place. The species known as D. Chi-
mensis, embracing the old Chinese Pink, very
much improved of late years, and the new and
superb varieties from Japan, known as D. ed-
dewigit and lacinzatus, are among the most
brilliant and useful of our garden flowers. The
last two run into many varieties, the result of
hybridization, with flowers of monstrous size
and varied and rich in coloring. Plants of the
tall growing sorts are from twelve to fifteen
inches in height, while the dwarf kinds make
handsome low, compact bushes, excellent for
the garden and unsurpassed for pots. Seed
may be sown in the spring, under glass or in a
seed-bed. Easily transplanted. Set the plants
from six to twelve inches apart, according to
varieties—the dwarf sorts only about six inches.
The Dianthus flowers freely during the whole
summer. If the flowering is checked by prun-
ing, so as to keep the plants vigorous, they will
usually survive the winter well, and make most
beautiful plants the second season, even much
better than the first. _ If allowed to flower too freely, they are sometimes so weakened as to be
unable to bear the winter without suffering great injury, if they escape destruction. Seed sown
late in the spring will produce strong young plants for the second season’s flowering. The Dwarf
sorts especially, and, in fact, all kinds, make very good house plants, if not kept too warm. In
this family there has been very great improvement in the past few years, so that now flowers grown
from seeds of the common China Pink are far superior to anything known among the China or
Japan Pinks ten yearsago. The engraving shows a flower of a good double Pink, of natural size.
The single varieties are so brilliant in color that they are prized by some persons even more than
the double sorts, and for beautiful markings and rich coloring few flowers equal the single Japan
and China Pinks.

DOUBLE DAISY, (Bellis,) Nat. Ord. Composite.

Every one knows and loves the Daisy. It has been the favorite flower of the poets from
CHAUCER down. Even the Daisy of the field is beautiful and poetical. The cultivated double
kinds are so good, and their merits so well known, that they need neither
description nor praise at our hands. Unfortun-
ately our climate is too dry for the perfection of
the Daisy, and it is only in early spring or in
favored locations, or where water is freely used,
that we can see the Daisy in its prime. Plenty
of water and shade, however, will do the work.
Plants of good sorts can usually be procured, but
seed sown either in the hot-bed or open ground “= a ae ;
will produce plants that will give a few late flowers the first season. A portion coming from seed
will always be single, and these can be removed. The plants should be about six inches apart
when set, so that when in perfection they will about cover the ground. For a single line or
border, the Daisy is unsurpassed. Plants do not always bear a Northern winter without injury,
and sometimes suffer in dry seasons. A cold-frame in winter, and a cool North border in sum-
mer, will insure success.

ERYSIMUM, Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

RYSIMUMS are very good and perfectly hardy annuals, of the Mus-
tard family. They form fair looking
plants about eighteen inches in height,
with clusters of yellow or orange, fra-
grant flowers, and plant and_blos-
som resemble the single Wallflower,
though both flowers and clusters are
smaller. Late in the season the Erys-
imum is very desirable for cutting, and
=. although not a flower that we would se-
lect as one of the best six, yet it is one
we would not like to dispense with and
also one that improves with acquaint-
ance. Some time when you need flowers for loose bouquets or decorations, try the Erysimum.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA, (California Poppy,) Nat. Ord. Papaveracee.
The Eschscholtzias are the most showy of our yellow-flowered annuals. This we well knew,
but the exceeding brilliance of these flowers when grown in masses we did not realize until we saw
thousands of acres in their native home, California, shining like

seas of molten gold. The plant is q | ‘i \ ))
. g Se “— Wag !)

of low growth, the tallest varieties
being less than a foot in height,
while the dwarf kinds are not more

EES » — NY \\\ cart yadid
: ex | Mf” \\ \\

than six inches. The leaves are Ze == jo "MAB
i = \ \' i aii ‘A
finely cut, and glaucous green in = —\ | (i
WE

color. There are now several dis-
tinct varieties, white, yellow, orange, &c., but the old yellow, known as the California Poppy, is
quite equal to the best. Seed may be sown in the garden where plants are to flower.

EUPHORBIA, Nat. Ord. Euphorbiaceae.
The Euphorbia marginata is a pretty annual, making a plant nearly two feet in height and
having the appearance of a shrub or miniature tree. The largest of the leaves are nearly two

ve" inches in length, growing smaller as they near the tops of the

ats Z),,-. branches. The leaves are very pretty light green, surrounded by

2 NAS Z a margin of clear, snowy white, on the large leaves merely a line,

iy ye y becoming wider as the leaves get smaller, until the smallest are

S aes nearly or quite pure white, as are also the flower bracts. It

SSK Mp yz grows abundantly west of the Mississippi, and is called Snow on
<I VY ; : i

ELE the Mountains, and we thought this a very appropriate name,

Zi LARS as we noticed it growing upon the plains, within sight of

the snow-fringed mountains. For a bed of crnamental-leaved

plants few things we are acquainted with will give more satisfaction.

EUTOCA, Nat. Ord. “Hydrophyllacee.

The Eutocas are another pretty class of California annuals, all having blue flowers, though of
different shades. They are coarse growing plants, but the flowers of the dark colored sorts are
intensely blue. They do best in a warm sandy soil, at least give more
flowers in proportion to their foliage than if in a rich strong soil.
The Eutocas are very desirable for cutting, because
a flowering branch when placed in water will keep
in bloom for many days. It seems almost strange
that we are indebted to California for so many of
our nice annuals. The lover of flowers, and par- :
ticularly if acquainted with annuals, in travel. ===
ing in California finds it hard to persuade himself that he is not in a cultivated garden, and often
we found ourselves unconsciously looking for the house, the host, and the gardener.

, HE,
826 = "NA 2 Nese WZ
So Pom Ste, GR J& \ 2S AOR,
pie BT CR ty DE: BER \ LA. 5) Aa
G : NU SSS Cyaan baie SS eI

FENZLIA, Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

fre ENZLIA DIANTHIFLORA is a very neat little plant, bearing a perfect
mass of small flowers. In fact both plant and flower are miniature in
size. The flowers are rosy tinted, with a yellow throat, surrounded by
dark colored spots. This little plant is a :
native of California, and we think must grow /
up among the mountains or in the shady can- |
yons, for it seems to require both shade and
2 moisture, and suffers materially in the garden Wp
= in a hot, dry season. It is very desirable for
pots or baskets, or for window or conserva-
tory decoration, forming a globular mass of
flowers, four inches in diameter, and constantly in flower, when the plant is healthy and strong.

GAILLARDIA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

AILLARDIA is a really good bedding annual, the plants being
strong, constant bloomers through the whole summer, and each
plant covering a good deal of ground. The plants are somewhat
coarse, and the flowers by no means delicate, yet a good bed of
Gaillardia will bring no discredit upon the taste of the cultivator.
The Gaillardias are natives of
Texas and other Southern States,
and are known by the common
name of Blanket Flower in some
sections of the South, under which
a name we have received many speci-
=== —_— mens of seed and flowers. Half- |

_hardy annuals; bear transplanting well, and should be set from twelve to eighteen inches apart.

GILIA, Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

Gilias are free-flowering, hardy annuals, growing from six to ten inches in height, with
clusters of small, delicate, yet bright, lively flowers, that make very pretty little masses or clumps,
but do not look well in very large beds or masses.
The Gilias, like so many of our fine annuals, are
natives of California, and were discovered and in-
troduced into Europe about forty years since.
Plants of most of the varieties flower very early,
often in the seed bed, and almost as soon as out of
the seed-leaf. The flowers are small, borne in
panicles, and desirable for cutting. Quite hardy, dea
and seed may be sown in the open ground, but if transplanted should be removed when small.

HELIANTHUS, (Sunflower,) Nat. Ord. Composite.

ELIANTHUs is the well known old fashioned Sunflower; coarse, tall
plants, from four to eight feet in height, with bright yellow flowers.
The best double varieties produce a very gooc effect among shrub-
bery, and when used as screens, etc. The Sunflower is a native of
Peru, and in old times was regarded with some reverence as a flower
sacred to the sun, and was worn by the virgins of the sun at the great
festivals of the Incas. It is no doubt the flower alluded to by Ovid,
when he represented Clytia as pining to death for love of Apollo and
_being changed by the pitying god into a flower which turned to the
~ sun. The Sunflower is hardy and annualiy reproduces itself from

_ self-sown seed. Many are now turning their attention to the growth of the Sun-flower for the

production of oil, and as food for poultry, and Prof. MAurRy published a series of articles endeavor-
ing to prove that for the destruction of malaria in swampy districts it was invaluable, we have no
doubt equaling the Ezcalyptus.

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44

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HUNNEMANNIA, Nat. Ord. Papaveracee.

Hunnemannia fumarizefolia is a beautiful herbaceous perennial, from Mexico, but one, we
regret, not hardy in Northern latitudes. Fortunately, however, the plant makes a rapid growth,
arrives at maturity and flowers the first
i season. We, at the North, therefore, can
yb Ye treat the Hunnemannia as an annual, and
\ - by sowing the seed every spring enjoy its
atazev = beauty as well as those who are blessed
Zz NIM with a more favorable climate. The

Nis plant makes a growth of about two feet;
the flowers are bright yellow and tulip-
formed. We are always pleased with this flower, and can, therefore, recommend its culture.

KAULFUSSIA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

AULFUSSIAS are pretty, little, free flowering, hardy annuals, having the
appearance of single Asters, but the ray florets curl back in a very
curious way, after the flower has been expanded
a Short time. The plants make a low growth,
only being about six inches in height, and
would be excellent for bedding, only that they
make their growth early in the season, and
bloom and ripen their seed long before we are
. prepared to dispense with any bedding plant
- that has been enlisted in the work of ornament-
i “<==— ing our lawns or gardens. There are many, wi
however, who, despite this fault, are very much attached to the pretty little Kaulfussia. The col-
ors of all the varieties are good, and of some very intense.

LEPTOSIPHON, Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

EPTOSIPHONS are low, pretty, hardy, California annuals, growing less.
than six inches in height, and bearing clusters of delicate little flow-
ers. Like many other Cali-
fornia anuuals, they do not
seem to bear our hot dry sum-
mers very well, but do not
suffer by either wet or cold.
They are so perfectly hardy
that we have always suc-
==. ceeded by sowing seed late in

the autumn or at the earliest
possible moment in the spring, as we have advised for Clarkia. This course produces early
spring flowers in abundance. A border on the North side of a fence or building suits them exactly.

LINUM, (Flax,) Nat. Ord. Linacee.

Linum grandiflorum rubrum is a very fine half-hardy annual, with beautiful, bright crimsor
flowers that continue all through the summer. The habit of the plant
is neat and slender, like all the Flax family, and it grows to eighteen
inches or more in height. When planted a ov
foot apart, this Flax makes a very good bed. \ |
We have endeavored to show, in the engray-
ing, the habit of the plant, and also the ap-
pearance of the flower, which is of a brilliant
scarlet color, and about the size shown in the
engraving. Seeds germinate best in the hot-
bed, but will do pretty well if sown in the ========
garden in a light soil. Perennial varieties will be found described in the proper department.

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Se i : Was ae 2 a ; PONE: 053) A PRN AN — Z Ye See pa, eee WY = ade,

LOBELIA, Nat. Ord. Lodbelacee.

Lobelias are a class of plants of great beauty and remarkably useful to the gardener, being
adapted to a great variety of ornamental purposes. Some of the Lobelias are strong, hardy
perennials, like our Cardinal Flower. The annual varieties are

; mostly of a trailing habit, bearing immense

» numbers of small flowers, and are particularly

* adapted to baskets, vases, etc., where drooping

y plants look so graceful; they are also freely used

Z. as edgings for beds of ornamental-leaved and

; = other bedding plants. A few varieties form

compact, almost globular, little plants, and one of these we have shown in the engraving. This

style is superb for edgings of beds, pots, and like purposes, which the habit will suggest to the
thoughtful florist.

LUPINUS, (Lupine,) Nat. Ord. Leguminose.

The Lupins are a well-known genus of very conspicuous plants, and there are very few peo-
ple that are not acquainted with some of the varieties. We have cultivated the Lupin for a
couple of scores of years, have seen it in the best gar- 9 £& x
dens of Europe , and yet we never realized its wealth of : i
beauty until we met it in its Californiahome. Here we f y
saw the little, dwarf Lupin, scarcely six inches in height
with its pretty, miniature flowers, and the mammoth
plant full six feet, with flowering stems stretching
themselves out like giant arms. Here we saw the white,
the yellow, the blue, the variegated,—Lupins of every

hue. We returned with greatcr love than ever for this old-fashioned flower. All the Lupins are
hardy, and seed can be sown in the open ground. The Lupin has a tap root and does not
transplant well.

LYCHNIS, Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacez.

The Lychnis family are mostly perennials, but flower the first season under good treatment,
and endure the winter unusually well. Some, like Z. Chalcedonica, are old friends, but of late
years florists have greatly improved this flower, and

the better varieties now give flowers as large
as Japan Pinks, and of a
great variety of colors, such
as rose, red,
and white.
To obtain
good flowers
the first sum-
mer, seeds should be started under glass and transplanted
as early as the weather will permit. The taller varieties -
are excellent for planting among shrubbery. A piece of :
shrubbery looks quite sombre a great part of the season,
and the sooner we learn to light up our shrubberies with tall, bright flowers, the better. The

engraving on the right shows one of the improved, large varieties, Haageana ; at the left, Chad.
cedonica, both less than half natural size.

MALOPE, Nat. Ord. Walvacee.

ALOPE differs from the Mallow, botanically, principally in the
. shape of the capsules, and their arrangement, but to the florist the
A~ principal difference is in the su-
' perior size and beauty of the Mal-
ope flower. The only varieties we
would recommend for culture are
M. grandiflora, a bright purplish
flower, more than three inches
across and M. grandiflora alba, Z ==
pure white, and about two inches. Willi NS

The Malope is a strong growing Re es

plant, three feet in height. Seed ie

may be sown under glass, and then

plants will bloom very early; or in the open ground, with a later, but quite as strong a growth.

MARIGOLD, (Tagetes,) Nat. Ord. Composite.
Marigold, or Tagetes, as the French and African Marigolds are called, are so well known that
no general description will be necessary, as they have been cultivated for more than two hundred
= years. The French Marigold, no doubt, came
from Peru, or some part of South America,
while the name of the African indicates its
true origin. Both are tall, coarse plants, the
African being the more robust, often reaching
more than two feet in height. The flowers
large, some being four inches across, double,
== in color yellow, orange, and brown. ‘There
: are several dwarf varieties, growing only from
six inches to a foot in height. A comparatively new variety, signata pumila, makes a beautiful
plant, almost a perfect ball, a foot or more in diameter, and covered with hundreds of single
yellow flowers, as shown in the engraving. The leaves are finely cut, almost fern-like, and the
plant continues to increase in beauty until frost.

MARTYNIA, Nat. Ord. Pedahacee.

The Martynias are coarse, robust, hardy annuals, of a spreading habit, requiring at least three
feet of space to perfect their growth. They are natives of Louisiana, Texas, Mexico, and farther
South. The engraving gives a front view of the flower, which is
tubular, and about an inch in length. The colors are yellow, white
and purple, and one variety, formosa, is sweetly fragrant. The
seed - pods are very curi-
ously formed, as will be LOPE
seen by the little engrav- a (aire
ing, and they grow six “2S .
inches or more in length;
the variety called probo-
scidea having the largest
pods, and these, when about two-thirds grown and quite tender, are much prized for pickles.

MEDICAGO, Nat. Ord. Leguminose.
There are several varieties of Medicago more or less cultivated for their curious seed-pods.
These we have never thought worthy of description in the
GUIDE, as the flowers are by no means beautiful; yet there is
considerable demand for the seed-pods by those who use them for
the manufacture of rustic picture frames, and other rustic work.
SS ~ We, therefore, give engravings of two of the best, one called
e-hive, or Hedge-hog; of the appropriateness of these names we leave

2 We
Am NIG
SI Y

Yi ‘f

Snail, and the other, Be
our readers to judge.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM, Nat. Ord. /icoidee.
The Mesembryanthemums are pretty, half hardy annuals, with delicate, succulent, almost
transparent leaves and branches. The two most popular varieties in America are those commonly
known as Ice-plant and Dew-plant. Both are excellent for baskets, vases,

aire . We pots, etc., the Ice-plant having thick, fleshy leaves and stems, covered with
SEEDS RES little shining globules, which it will take some investigation to convince
5; a hat the spectator are not “truly ice.’’ The flowers are small, white, and un-
w = Re ve important. The Dew-plant has a smooth, light green, pretty, dewy-looking

Me leaf, a graceful slender, habit, and a very pretty pink flower. Both are

\ oO us SS

alg oAN & ae drooping plants, and therefore, with their pretty foliage, peculiarly adapted
peves * "A to basket and vase work. The increased attention given to these graceful
gills ie 4 aay OS decorations has made the Mesembryanthemums and other plants adapted
j oy (R K to this work very popular. The culture of plants with pretty ornamental
ily Ne foliage that can be grown from the seed early in the spring so as to produce

a good effect during the season, should be encouraged, as it places very large resources in the
hands of the gardener at a mere trifling cost.

MIGNONETTE, (Reseda,) Nat. Ord. Resedacee.

We need not describe the Sweet Mignonette, that every one knows and everybody loves, and
yet very few cultivate, compared with the many who might thus show their love for this sweet
little flower. In Europe, especially in England and Germany, we
noticed Mignonette growing in every possible place and in every im-
aginable receptacle. For the wealthy, beautiful and costly Mignonette
pots and boxes are provided, that will elegantly
adorn the window sill, or nicely fill and beautify any
niche or bracket. Those not blessed with so
much of earthly good use ordinary flower pots, while
the children press into the service broken teapots
and old crockery of every conceivable pattern. Seeds
of Mignonette can be sown at any season, so that
by having pots prepared at different times a suc-
cession of flowers can be secured, and Mignonette :
adorn the button hole and perfume the house at all times. The florists of Europe have intro-
duced several new varieties of Mignonette among their novelties, claiming for them much
superiority over our old and well loved Sweet Mignonette; but these claims, we have always
found, on trial, to have but little foundation in truth. The Mew White, with a larger flower and
more robust growth, and a little whiter in color, is the only new kind of merit.

MIRABILIS, Nat. Ord. Myctaginacee.

Mirabilis Jalapa is the well known Marvel of Peru, a native, we believe, of South America,
and also of the West Indies, and first found in Peru, soon after the discovery of the country,
. when everything from that strange land was considered marvelous. It
\" YY Z was at one time supposed that the root of this plant furnished the Jalap
all ZZ A of commerce, hence the name, but this was found to be untrue. It is
W/Z Z===—~ also known as the Four-o’clock, because its flowers expand about that
time in the evening and fade the next morning. By the French it is
called Belle of the Night. It is really a good plant,
about two feet in height, well branched, with bright
foliage, fragrant flowers, desirable colors, and fine
markings. Plants should be about two feet apart.
It makes a nice summer hedge if set in a row about
_. afoot apart. Seed should be planted in the open
= ground, where the plants are desired. The Mirab-
=" ilis is generally treated as a half-hardy annual.
The roots, however, may be taken up in the autumn and preserved like Dahlias, during the win
ter; but as plants are obtained so readily from seed, and flower so soon, this course is seldom
practiced. The flower shown in the engraving is about two-thirds the natural size.
v7

MIMULUS, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.
The Mimul, sometimes called Monkey Flowers, are beautiful, tender looking plants. The
branches are almost trans-
parent and quite succulent,
and are easily broken by
the wind. For baskets

SS
aN =
= in the house, not many
plants will give more satis-
faction. M. cardinalis does very well in the garden. Flowers of the Mimulus are very brilliant.

MYOSOTIS, Nat. Ord. Boraginacee.

Perennial plants, that flower the first season if sown early, bearing small white and blue flowers.
Delight in a rather moist situation. Fine for moist rock-work. All 5
the blue varieties are commonly called Forget-me-not. M. pa-
lustris is the old and popular Forget-me-not.
The branches cut and placed in water will
continue to bloom a long time, almost as
well as if on the plant, and will often make
roots, and considerable growth. Seed may 35
be sown in the hot-bed and transplanted as - Ee
early as possible, or may be sown in the F .
open ground in the spring, so as to get a good growth before the hot, dry weather of summer.

NEMOPHILA, Nat. Ord. Aydrophyllacee.
EMOPHILAS are pretty, delicate, hardy annuals, throwing up
their slender flower stems a few inches. The leaves are very
pretty in form, and of a delicate, lively
green, and, if the plants are grown in
masses, have a mossy appearance. The
flowers are mainly blue and white, and of
the forms shown in the engravings. They
_ are native Americans, and yet flourish
= much better in the moist climate of Brit-
~ ainthanhere. Nemophilas were first found

on the banks of the Missouri River. This fact shows why they will not
better endure our hot, dry summers. No annual is grown with greater
success in England than the Nemophila, and we hardly think as exten-
sively. On the high land in Calaveras
County, California, and in the neighborhood of the big trees,
we saw acres of Nemophilas, beautifying the waste land, and
finer than we ever saw them
in the gardens of Europe or
America. They do best if
sown in a frame and trans-
planted early, as the hot sun
injures the flowers; but do
finely all summer, if planted
in a rather cool, shady place. (TS
Set about six inches apart. A
few plants set early among
spring-flowering bulbs, such
Z as Tulips, etc., flower splen-

—_ didly, and a few seeds scat- |
tered over the beds of bulbs will render a very good accouut of themselves in the early spring.

NIEREMBERGIA, Nat. Ord. Solanacee.

The Nierembergias are very pretty plants with delicate, whitish flowers, tinted with lilac, and
with a deep purplish lilac blotch in the center. The plant is slender and delicate, bearing abund-

ance of flowers the whole summer. ‘The Nierembergias are tender peren-
nials, and are therefore suitable for house culture, or they may be treated
as tender annuals, and will flower early in the season, if transferred from

the frame or the green-house to the garden,
when there is no danger of frost. They are
natives of South America, and are worthy of
more general culture. For baskets, vases, etc.,
we cannot recommend the Nierembergia too

ance of the plant does not give so good an idea of its character.

NIGELLA, Nat. Ord. Ranunculacee.
The Nigellas are curious, hardy annuals, with finely cut leaves, and very curious, showy
flowers, which, from their singular construction, have acquired many odd names, as Love-in-a-
Mist, Devil-in-a-Bush, etc. Seeds

grow very readily, and may be sown 0 AD
. ° . \ >
in the open ground early in the spring, AY ‘xt
and in most sections in the autumn. wre
i ably =

They are natives of Asia Minor, Egypt, “ASKS

’ 7 7 q y
and other Eastern countries, and the Zi ssa
seeds, being aromatic, are extensively BZN:

used both by oriental cooks and physi- 2=
cians. Indeed, they are supposed LY ===
Egyptian ladies to improve the complexion; but as their ideas of a good complexion may not
agree with Western notions, perhaps it would not be well to try the experiment. Both seeds and
leaves, we believe, are used in India to prevent the ravages of moth and other insects among

clothing,

NOLANA, Nat. Ord. Molanacee.

Nolanas are trailing, hardy annuals, the plant fleshy and succulent, and with flowers very
much resembling Convolvulus minor, but with more substance. The Nolana prefers a light soil,
and it is seldom too hot or dry to suit its wants. The Nolana is a
native of Peru and Chili. | Seed may be sown in the border where
the flowers are desired, or in a seed-bed in the garden, to be trans-
planted as needed. Excellent for rock- work, baskets, ete. The
Nolana delights in the same treat-
ment, soil, &c., as the Portulaca, and
may be used with the best effect in
situations where our old Portulaca
= would be desirable. This class of

= Sonali plants, the natives of Southern climes,
that delight in heat and drouth, are our choicest treasures in midsummer, when the thermometer
is above ninety much of the day, without a drop of rain for weeks.

Aya

Nic A
WTS A
SI IO

CENOTHERA, (Evening Primrose,) Nat. Ord. Oxagracee.
ENOTHERAS are a very fine genus of showy plants, opening their

\ (Pa silky xe : flowers suddenly in the
VNG Yo =p pS a latter part of the da
Te eV SUE Zs, P ra
(A =r WZ and making a most
brilliant exhibition du-
ring the evening and
early in the morning.
Some of the large va-
rieties will attract as
much attention as any
thing that can be
grown. They certainly
look like things of life, as s_ they open with a nervous
motion that cannot only be seen but heard. The low,
white variety, acaulis alba, is a marvel of beauty, pro-
ducing flowers four inches across, pure white, and one

or more flowers appearing each successive evening. Most other varieties are Le yellow.

OBELISCARIA, Nat. Ord. Comfosite.

The Obeliscarias are coarse plants with showy flowers. The best, O. pulcherrima, exhibits
a strange commingling of red, brown and yellow. The engraving gives a
very good idea of the form of this flower, with
its curious, acorn-like center, and drooping
petals, or rather, the ray-flowers. These ray-
flowers are of a rich, velvety crimson, edged
with yellow. The central cone, or disk, is
_ brown until the ray-flowers expand, and they
- are bright yellow. The flowers are borne on
pretty long stems, and plants are about eigh-
teen inches in height. The Obeliscaria we cannot call beautiful, but it 1s interesting.

OXYURA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

Oxyura chrysanthemoides is a very pretty, free-flowering, little hardy annual, one of the very
many pretty things for which we are indebted to California. The plant -

is neat in habit, branching, about eighteen
inches in height; the flower is daisy-like,
size and form being very well represented in
the engraving. The color is of the most
delicate lemon yellow, with a clear, white
edging. The effect of these two colors is
very pretty. The only possible objection to
this plant is the fact that it does not continue in flower all the summer, like the Phlox, Petunia, etc.

PALAFOXIA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

ee ALAFOXIA HooOKERIANA is a fine, new annual. There are
Wy Se several species, but the best is the one we
describe, which is of a dwarf, branching
habit. The flowers are rosy crimson,
with a dark center, and continue in
flower well through the summer. We
have uniformly sown the seed of this
flower under glass, judging from its ap-
pearance and place of nativity, Texas
and Mexico, that this would be the best
- treatment, but some of our correspondents
have encceeded iy sowing in the open ground. Set the plants about ten inches apart.

PANSY; (Viola tricolor,) Nat. Ord. Violacee.
The Pansy is the little Heartsease of Europe, become somewhat naturalized in America, and
wonderfully improved by cultivation. It was about sixty years ago that this flower first attracted

the special notice of florists, their attention being called to it by the great
success of a lady amateur. We give an engraving of the Hearts-ease
as itis found wild. The French call it Pezsee, and this is, no doubt, the
origin of the common name, Pansy. The Pansy is now a popular
~, flower with both florists and amateurs, giving abundance of bloom until
after severe frosts, enduring our hard winters with safety, and greeting
us in the earliest spring with a profusion of bright blossoms. It will
flower better in the middle of the summer, if planted where it is some-
N what shaded from the hot
\ sun, and especially if fur-
\. N nished with a good supply
of water, but in almost any situation will give fine
flowers in the spring and autumn. If plants come
into bloom in the heat of summer, the flowers will ;
be small at first; but as the weather becomes cooler, :
they will increase in size and beauty. Often plants
that produce flewers two and a half inches in diam-
eter during the cool, showery weather of spring,
will give only the smallest possible specimens
during the dry weather of summer. To have good
flowers, the plant must be vigorous, and make a
rapid growth. No flower is more easily ruined by
ill treatment or adverse circumstances. Seed may
be sown in the hot-bed or open ground. If young
plants are grown in the autumn, and kept in a frame
during the winter, with a little covering in the
severest weather, they will be ready to set out very
early in the spring, and
give flowers until hot
weather. If seed is sown
in the spring, get it in as
early as possible, so as to A
have plants ready to flower during the spring rains. Seed sown in a
- cool place in June or July, and well watered until up, will make plants
for autumn flowering. The Pansies make a beautiful bed, and are
interesting as individual flowers. No flower is so companionable and life-like. It requires no
very great stretch of the imagination to cause one to believe that they see and move, and
acknowledge our admiration in a very pretty, knowing way.

PERILLA, Nat. Ord. Zadiate.
' The Perilla Nankinensis is one of the best of the ornamental-leaved annuals. It hasa broad,
serrated leaf, of a purplish mulberry color, and makes a well
formed plant, as represented in the engraving, and eighteen inches
or more in height. It is very desirable for the center of a bed of
ornamental-leaved plants, and we can recommend it also for a low
screen or hedge, and such hedges will be found exceedingly useful
in many situations. The Perilla is one of the plants that is good
NN, for some special work, indeed, almost invaluable, but in an ordinary
collection of flower seeds would not be desirable. We are induced
NE ~ to mention this fact here, because, last season, a gentleman wrote
- us that we had better leave this plant out of our collection, as it was
no better than a weed —and, perhaps, he was right, for a weed is
any plant out of place. An Aster among a bed of Petunias would be a weed.
RI

Neem tn Laliz yj
TB,

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\\

SS =e) 7 v 3 7A
Sone a ee: ABS moe oof Nock Se
Eis Bey pgs Gr SAs DA» We
Soe Dacxaiaas ao Des asi Se ot ee iis -—

PETUNIA, Nat. Ord. Solanaceae.

Just fifty years ago, the White Petunia was found by a botanical explorer in South America, at
the mouth of the Rio de la Plata. For seven years the florists of Europe were delighted with this
poor, white flower, when a Purple Petunia was discovered
in Brazil. Since that time, 1830, the improvement of this
flower has been constant. About fifteen years since the floral
world were surprised by the announcement of a double white
Petunia. It was only semi-double, but now we have them well
doubled, of all colors, and as large as any one can wish. Seed
4 sown in the spring will produce flowering plants in June that
A will continue to bloom abundantly until frost, and may be
= sown in a cold-frame or hot-bed, or in the open ground. Set

' the plants about eighteen inches apart. ‘They come pretty true
from seed, though not reliable in this respect, being inclined
to sport. The Petunia as at present cultivated embraces three
distinct classes. ‘The grandiflora varieties make quite a strong,
succulent growth, and the stems and leaves are sticky to the
touch. These beara few very large, magnificent flowers, often
from three to four
inches across. They
bear but few seeds
and these are obtain-
ed at great expense of
labor. In the open

ground they give no
seed, so plants for seed must be grown in pots on stages,
sheltered from rain and dews, and fertilization is accom-
plished by hand, the pollen being distributed with the
aid of a camel-hair brush. Of course, seed obtained in
this way is always expensive, but the wonderful size
and the richness of the coloring well repays the cost.
In this class we have a Fringed Petunia, new and
unique. The Double Petunia gives no seed, and those
that will produce double flowers are obtained by fertiliz-
ing single flowers with the pollen of the double, in
the manner previously described. The third class is the
small flowered varieties. The plants are of a slender,
wiry growth, but cover a good deal of ground. They
bear an immense number of flowers, from early summer
until frost, and seed freely in the open ground. A well filled circular a six feet in diameter,
will display continually, without a day’s intermission, thousands of flowers. We know of no
annual, and but few flowers of any kind, that will make a more brilliant bed. Our engravings
show one of the small-flowered varieties of natural size, and a double flower much reduced.

PHACELIA, Nat. Ord. Hydrophyllacee.

The Phacelias are hardy annuals, very much resembling the Eutocas, and, we believe, all
natives of America. Most of the varieties are blue, though there are some white. This flower
does not really possess much merit, though pretty fair as a border
plant, and good for bouquet making. We only
recommend two varieties. P. tanacetifolia
alba, presenting a very remarkable appearance
from the strings of whitish flowers that appear
to have just unrolled, the long, black hairs
with which it is covered, and the singular sta-
mens, which project far beyond the corolla of
the flowers. P. congesta is somewhat less robust, not so hairy, and flowers light blue.

’ 82

PHLOX DRUMMONDII, Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

No annual excels the Phlox for a brilliant and constant display. Indeed, if confined to one
plant for the decoration of the lawn or border, the Phlox Drummondii would be my choice over
any annual or perennial with which I am acquainted. It seems to have every desirable quality
for this purpose. The colors range from the purest white to the deepest crimson, including purple,
and yellow, and striped, the clear eye of the Phlox being peculiarly marked. Seed may be sown
in the open ground in May, or in a cold-frame or hot-bed earlier in the season; and in either case,
from June, during the whole summer and autumn, they make a most brilliant bed of showy yet

PON delicate flowers. A good bed
W Yj of Phlox is a sight that daz-
a / 7 zles the eye with its brilliancy.
Me if The Phlox, in a good, rich
A soil, will grow more than
el eighteen inches in height, but
as there is not sufficient
strength in the main stem, it
will not stand entirely erect.
A foot apart is about near
enough to set the plants, un-
2 less the soil is very poor. If
\ too thick, they suffer from mil-
ff dew. The Phlox makesa very
“ff good border or low summer hedge. The finest
" effect, however, is produced by planting each color
in a separate bed or in ribbon fashion, its constant
bloom making it very desirable for these purposes. Indeed, we know of no annual or perennial
that will give a more brilliant and constant mass of color. The Phlox is a native of America.
It was first discovered in Texas, in 1835, by DRuMmMonpD, a collector sent out by the Glasgow
Botanical Society. It was the last new plant he sent home, as he soon after died in Cuba.
The buds, just before opening, look like a flame, and hence the name,
Phlox, or Flame. I grow from five to ten acres of Phlox every year,
devoting much time and means to its improvement, and have no hesi-
tation in saying my strain of Phlox Drummondii is the best the world
produces. Indeed, I have already introduced several new varieties,
showing much improvement either in form or coloring, and have seve-
ral more on trial, among them one with a pretty fringed edge; another,
very large, of unusual substance, and perfect, rounded form; and if I
should, in a year or two, introduce a good, double, annual Phlox, I would be more pleased than
surprised. There is no difficulty in starting new and improved varieties. The difficulty is in
getting their character so well established that the seed will be reliable, that is pretty sure to pro-
duce a good portion of flowers like the one from which the seed was saved.

POPPY, (Papaver,) Nat. Ord. Papaveracee.
The Poppies are not only well known to every cultivator of flowers, but to almost every one,
and yet few know areal good Poppy. There are some very fine perennials, which we shall

Sanh mention when describing plants that do not flower
aly MM ; RW

i CG GM pW Seyi the first season from the seed. The good annual
NW iad, A YF varieties are numerous, ranging in size from the

SSS Ne’ ALOE : : ee:
= Fe Sey: A : little Ranunculus-flowered, an inch in diameter, to
= | GG oe SS 1 Ailey =the Peony-flowered, four or five inches across.
Eg Aah ieee ba EU Seay 27, They also present an almost endless variety of
YY) Lee wn UWA colors and markings. The true Opium Poppy, the
(dt \e iy (ZG variety used for growing Opium, is a large, white,

VIM = single flower. The Poppy has a strong tap-root,

\\ === and is, therefore, difficult to transplant, and it is
better to sow the seed early in the spring where the plants are to flower. The Poppies are all
perfectly hardy.

Sea a - q
SOs Se Es, = yea
Ore Wr ER NAGS } aoa AEC
Co Wa EN. PW ZA ORS
ie SE NUE. TO GPL eae naa fae, AO ee oe Z SOE jw 7 ae

PORTULACA, Nat. Ord. Portulacacee.
The Portulaca is a popular, hardy, creeping annual, each strong plant covering a space about
a foot in diameter, with salver-shaped flowers, of every color imaginable, except blue, and striped,
and these colors of the most intense Ss

AN.) ; =
Kosi pst ~ brightness. The Portulaca delights £4
i SYyyy Yj d d i
Cae @ in a warm sun and a sandy soil,
y= INE

; = . and the drouth is never too long %, .
= i SS WAX AS’ nor the heat too intense for this

ZY Z SN y ‘ S beautiful little salamander. When
Z z i « AS everything else is perishing for
Hy; Gj per. lack of moisture, the Portulaca will
ps ate q give its largest flowers and _bright-

est colors. We well recollect "i

when the Portulaca gave us but very few colors, and a double flower would have been a wonder.
Now we have all the colors that heart can desire, and flowers as double as roses and almost.
as large. The Portulaca does Py ground early, or under glass. The
not like a clay soil nor black muck. it plants can be transplanted even in
It makes a brilliant bed on the full flower, and in making a ribbon
lawn, but as the plants are low it bed with Portulaca, we always.
is best to raise the bed in the cen- 2% Sis Rp Se 4A); wait until the first flower opens, so
ter. Sow the seed in the open == =22Z2BeNSzG2te - as to be entirely sure of the colors.
Only one possible objection can be made to the Portulaca, and that is that its flowers are fully
open only in sunshine; like the sun-dial, it counts only the bright hours. The perfectly double
Portulaca forms no seed, so that seed must be saved from semi-double flowers; and from fifty to.
seventy-five per cent. of plants from this seed will give double flowers.

RICINUS, (Castor Oil Bean,) Nat. Ord. Luphorbiacee.
\ IcINus. Plants with very ornamental foliage and showy fruit, of
<Gee~ stately growth and quite a tropical appearance. With other
7 onamental -leaved
plants, they make
=. a most attractive
S_ bed on the lawn,
and are also desir-
able when grown
as single speci-
mens. Plant the
2) B=: seed in the open
4, Pe ES a = ground, in a dry
situation, and as early as safe in the spring. The

wo,

> eZ <
VY, 5
\ WA

same soil and treatment that will give good early ~si\\ jy. — A
. . . «ois SW a _
eg corn is just suitable for the Ricinus.

In the latter part of the summer the
splendid spikes, composed of the
seed-vessels, will be quite gorgeous.
Some of the varieties have spikes
of a beautiful metallic green, oth-
ers of a fine, almost transparent
a pink and scarlet, which seem to

\ yt illuminate the grounds. There is
ey Wd wy no ornamental-leaved plant for out-

yj, ) door decoration for ordinary use ii é a
JW equal to the Ricinus. For a clump or bed, the Ricinus should be planted about

Sai three feet apart. For a screen, and nothing is better fitted for such a purpose,
about two feet apart. Plants range from five to ten feet in height, except a dwarf variety, which
seldom exceeds three feet.

ZH)

_ Litity

SSS
= = SS

Rhiivis
Ri

ma A == ro hi
SP DIG : A C “AY
S(O J Ke Ls Rp S &; — = Va ( g= CSR >
OTD SAIS, i ra Pan, sR. VEAP EN wy ge ee
eae Wu db WAR a orto TE ee z ig Fs eapipew it me ete :

SALPIGLOSSIS, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

ey ALPIGLOSSIS is a very good half-hardy annual, with flowers of peculiar
‘ SEN re richness, and very delicately and beautifully pencilled. Indeed, the
ype delicate, yet almost gorgeous markings, are a 2

wh ‘ ; Aan ylliny

S, matter of surprise to many who grow this Ait, wy
flower for the first time, and do not expect so \\\W, 2

@ much in so small, and apparently simple, a NL WG ——-
flower. The ordinary height is about two = = =
feet, but there is a dwarf kind that grows only < Ui IN NaN

: acu) TAMA SY
about one foot in height. When the plants WW \S

= are set pretty closely together, say about eight
or ten inches, they make a very fine bed.
Seeds may be sown under glass, but they will do well in the open ground, especially if the soil is
light, and always do best in a sandy soil. The flower shown is about one-half natural size.

SALVIA, Nat. Ord. Ladiate.

Very ornamental plants for beds or borders, growing freely in any light, rich soil; from
eighteen inches to two feet in height. Their beautiful spikes of gay flowers are produced in
the greatest profusion. Must be treated as tender annuals,
and plants should get a good start in
the hot-bed, and not be planted out 4
before the weather is warm. Very
little success must be expected from
sowing seed in the open ground,
unless in a very favorable climate. 2=
They make fine fall and winter orna-
ments for the house or conservatory,
and grow from two to three feet in height. The va:iety known as S. splendens is the beautiful
autumn flower known as Scarlet Sage. Plants that are in a thrifty condition can be taken up in
the autumn, before frost, and potted, and they will bloom wel! into the winter.

SANVITALIA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

Sanvitalia procumbens flore-pleno is a pretty, low, or creeping, plant, especially suited for
baskets, and bearing a great many double, daisy-like flowers, of a bright yellow color. It was
introduced some six years since, and we felt very much disappointed
with it, because more than half the flowers were only semi-double, and
with a very poor black center, but for a
year or two there has been considerable
improvement. Seeds germinate quite freely.
We sow generally under glass. A good
: plant will cover a space more than two feet
- in diameter, and will flower from July, if

sown pretty early, until killed by frost.
The foliage 1s clean, abundant, of a fresh, lively green, and the habit of the plant good in
all respects, making it a desirable drooping plant, one that will give general satisfaction.

SAPONARIA, Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

The Saponarias are little, low, delicate plants, growing a mass of little leaves and miniature
flowers, the latter just about the size shown in the engraving. For a small pot, or edging, there
are few little things prettier, for they entirely
cover the ground with their bright little , 44
leaves and star-like flowers. There aretwo *
varieties desirable, a deep pink and a white.
Setting alternate plants of white and pink xs
produces a very nice effect in a border.
We once saw a very pretty, small, circular
bed filled with Saponaria, a row of each color; but it is only suited for small beds, alone; as
a border or edging for beds filled with stronger plants, it is very desirable.

Ps
) Enc ee Be

SCABIOSA, ee Bride,) Nat. Ord. Dipsacee.

The Scabiosa, called all-the-world-over, Mourning Bride and Mournful Widow, has been
so long a popular garden flower that nobody knows where it was discovered or when first
cultivated. We don’t know that we can call it a very
beautiful flower, and yet it is an old friend, and we like
it, and it gives a great variety of colors, from white
almost to black, and it grows freely and healthily, and
paul Ae Be we always grow
mri yo, sien it, and always
eae intend to; and
7 it cuts beautiful-
ly for large bou-
quets, and is an
excellent flower
every way. The
tallest varieties
grow eighteen
inches in height: the flowers being supported on long,
wiry stems. The dwarf sorts are about a foot in height.
Seed may be grown in the garden or
under glass. Plants, if thrifty in the
autumn, not weakened by over-flow-
ering, often flower the second season. A variety, 5. stellata, bears curious
seed-pods, shown in the engraving at the right, and these dried, work up well
with Everlastings. Indeed, they look much like dried flowers, besides being
very singular. There is also a double variety,so called, the plant being dwarf
- in habit, and the flower smaller and more compact than the old sorts. It is
=a a neat variety and better for bouquets than the old kinds. There is a little
perfume to these flowers, and they are known by the name of Sweet Scabious.

SCHIZANTHUS, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacea.

An interesting and beautiful class of plants that may be treated as half-hardy annuals, but
that are not often seen in our gardens, and are
really better adapted for house culture. They
are not exactly of a climbing habit, and yet are
so slender that they need support, and when
this is provided will grow from two to three
feet in height, and bear hundreds of pretty .
two-colored flowers, looking like little butter-
flies. Winds, rain and the hot sun often
injure plants in the garden. Theseed shouldbe ==
sown under glass, if possible. A really beau- —
tiful flower for the house. The name signifies cut flower, and it is really interesting and good.

SENSITIVE PLANT, (Mimosa,) Nat. Ord. Leguminose.
The Miners pudica, called Sensitive Plant from the singularly sensitive nature of the leaves,
is really a pretty plant, but its chief merit is in the amusement it pro-
vides the children, and in fact, everybody. No one seems to get tired of
observing the habits of this plant. When a leaf is touched it immedi-
ately begins slowly to close, and if touched near the base of the leaf-
stalk, not only will the leaflets close up but the leaf-stalk droop as if
broken. Start the seed under glass, and do not transplant to the open
ground until the weather is warm. A plant or two reserved for the
house will afford a good deal of pleasure during the winter. A very
good way is to start a young plant in a pot in the spring at transplanting
time, and sink the pot in the earth to the rim. Before the nights get
cool in the autumn, remove the pot to the house, first re-potting into a larger pot, if necessary.

SA a
ROB { ith s Za
p072 oS) es, Ss) ( an BS
VAT, pled aX S Gace roan : \
re TE ! in ict SS Ze LS WE 7

SPRAGUEA, Nat. Ord. Portulacacee.

The Spraguea umbellata is a really pretty plant, and as curious as it is beautiful. The
leaves are rounded, somewhat succulent, and arranged in a crown-like cluster, as shown in the
engraving. The flowers form dense umbels, on leafless flower stems, six
inches or more in length. The blossoms are pink, and though not an
everlasting flower, with a very little drying
will equal the best for winter use. The
Spraguea is a native of California, but we
saw it there only in one place, within reach
of the spray of the Nevada Falls, and there
it grew most luxuriously, and when we
informed the ladies that these flowers were
everlastings and would keep for years, every one appropriated a good bunch as a memento of the
Yosemite and Nevada Falls. Sow the seed under glass or in a sheltered bed in the garden,

STOCK, TEN-WEEKS, (Mathiola annua,) Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

The Ten-Weeks or Annual Stock presents nearly or quite all the requisites of a perfect flow-
ering plant—good habit, fine foliage, beautiful flowers of almost every delicate and desirable tint,
; delightful fragrance, early flowering, and ak
abundance of blossoms. Although not a f% ,8
constant bloomer like Phlox, Petunia, etc.,
the flowers endure for a long time, and the
side shoots give a succession of flowers le
under favorable circumstances for months. ~
Indeed, the growth and flowering seems

weil

Z almost perpetual, where the plant can ob- :

tain a needed supply of moisture. Cool, == a hE =
dewy nights and moist days are the delight of the stock. The

best seeds of this flower are grown by German florists, in pots, on

stages, in open houses, the
object being to protect the
4 plants from rains and dews,
and severe winds. The double

XS” flowers give no seeds, but by

%% crowding several plants into

small pots, thus starving them,

ESS and by other operations known
ess to skillful flower seed growers,
MeN seeds are produced that will
rs

grow plants with double flow-
ers. Three-fourths of the
plants raised from the best seeds will usually produce
double blossoms. Seeds may be sown in the open ground,
or in the hot-bed or cold-frame; but if transplanted, let this be done when the plants are
quite small, just out of the seed-leaf. They should be removed from the seed-bed before they
become “drawn,” or slender, or the flowers will be poor. Make the soil deep and rich. Set
the plants about twelve inches apart. If the plants that are not too far advanced are taken
up carefully in the autumn, and potted, they will flower elegantly in the house in the winter.
It is a good plan to sow a few late in the season for this purpose. After growing in the house
they can be put out in the ground, and will generally flower well the second season.

-™S

Wey ~~
PESOY a
aye

Sing e © FR 5a

TROPZOLUM, Nat. Ord. 77ropeolacee.

ROPAOLUM. A very splendid class of half-hardy annuals, gen-
erally known as the Nasturtium. Flowers of all the different
‘y shades of yellow, orange and

red. This flower has of late Cw

| been much improved, the S\N.
A\{ blossoms being larger and ye SS
more brilliant than the old- SSS
fashioned sorts. The varieties
- of 7. majusand 7. Lobbianum
(Aybridum,) will be found de-
= scribed among the Climbers ;

but when allowed to run on ZA Uf

the ground, and pegged down, Nii (i IA ij
they make a brilliant bed. 7: mznus and its varieties are wy
dwarf, round-headed plants, about a foot high, ard in Europe
are very popular, and make very fine beds. Indeed, on the Dwarf Tropzeolums, among the
annuals, the gardeners of England almost entirely depend for a mass of brilliant colors, while the
Clarkia furnishes masses of the more delicate shades.

¥. om = b/g
frog x Wrens Cid
ns EN Spite, 3 — y : y M AG ey
OT ea SIAN SS) x
Mate ZS Sr = Re Ye seo y __}

aes

MANS

jaw!

SS
Ss;

F VERBENA, Nat. Ord. Verbenacee.

ERBENA. Every one knows the Verbena, and almost every one has
bought the little, sickly plants, in small pots, with one little tuft of
flowers, but every one =

does not know that
good, healthy plants
can be produced from
seed as readily as al-
= most any tender an-
* nual, plants that will F
" perfectly coveraspace *
three feet in diameter, flower well in July, and
continue strong and healthy until destroyed by
frost. Another strange fact not generally known,
is that nearly all Verbenas raised from seed are
fragrant, the light colored varieties particularly so.
Sow the seeds under glass early in the spring,
and transplant after three or four inches of growth.
There is a variety, a native of the Rocky Mountains, with pink flowers, so hardy that it will gen-
erally endure our winters and flower the second season.

VINCA, Nat. Ord. Apocynacee.

A genus of beautiful green-house perennials, that may be treated as tender annuals for the
garden. Ifsown under glass, and strong plants are set out early, in a warm situation, they will
7 yee e flower beautifully in the summer and autumn, and may be
Ni) /YyYy.
YY

potted for the house before frost. Not suitable for out-
door sowing, in northern latitudes. In the Southern
States the Vinca does admirably, growing almost like
a weed. There are several varieties, rose-colored, white,
and white with red eye. The engraving shows the
flower about one-half the natural size. The leaf is a
beautiful dark green, thick, smooth and shining, some-
_ what like the Laurel or Camellia. A well grown plant

SS will be about eighteen inches in height. We write this in
the garden, with a bed of Vincas before us, and it is difficult to moderate our praise.

feet ee)
Cevall
Ki

= ————
——— << ———-

<i oe

EYK

oS Se APPIN

WHITLAVIA, Nat. Ord. Hydrophyllacee.

annuals.

The

Dt a
Wee a BO
WA ) WT WES Pn

if cut while the

HITLAVIA. The Whitlavia is a pretty little California annual, with
delicate foliage and drooping clusters of beautiful bells, of the
size of the engraving, blue and white.
plants are perfectly hardy, proof against cold
and wet, but suffer often in dry, hot weather,
like Nemophila and many other California
For a shady spot there are very few
little flowers that will give more real pleasure.
=- The flowering branches,
lower buds are about opening, will continue

fresh in water for several days, every bud opening, and are elegant for a small, slender vase.

ZINNIA, NEW DOUBLE-FLOWERED, Nat. Ord. Composite.
INNIAS must be familiar to all our aged readers, for as far back as we

quite as double as the Dahlia.
ering in June will grow larger and handsomer, and the flowers
better every day until destroyed by frost.

wel

==<in Europe.

every garden.

Tie a string around

can recoliect, the old single variety was grown under the name of
Youth and Old Age in almost
The Double Zin-
nia we may call a new fiower,
for it has been introduced but a
few years, and has found itself so
well adapted to our climate that
the doubie Zinnias in America
seem a different and better flower
than the Zinnias we see growing
The plant usually
’ grows two feet in height, at least
seventy-five per cent. give flowers almost as beautiful and
A plant that commences flow- ig :

rm
mn

bon in

a) y
iw, why

i, ‘
2, ae G, ying at ye mary C
ree ™» r( AS ms 4
7 sey et mh Nae rg
| /,; ayy ‘ill

Hii iD

the stem of a flower, or mark one in any other way, and that flower will be found perfect in six

weeks from the time
it was marked.
Having taken par-
ticular pains in im-
proving the Zinnia,
I think my strain is
excellent ; indeed,
my Zinnias have
been pronounced
by florists from
England,
and Germany the
best in the world.
Seed will do well
sown under glass,
but must not have
much heat, and
plenty of air. Seed
will, however, grow
well in a bed in
the garden, and
transplant as safely

one will be pleased with them, but See

France 2X (

oR Si
“ee ;
a
st a m ve
SUAS S rns |
AN PittN) Na WV Jo7 OB
SoSH iy AUN ee) Soe
Bite paaS as
- Ny Z ' RY = Ly, ay
Ne ae NSS yeccet vi
Bic Sag ea
PUNO hy i Ii)
trdthn \ ca WD) ae
Ze wy Bus th D vA
} mre oa y Z- FE S te
YZ ‘7 4 SS AN)

as a Cabbage plant,
and this should be
done as early as
possible, and when
the plants are -
small; cold, rough

weather will do
them good. The
plants begin to

blossom when quite

= young, andthe first

flower is not usual-
ly good. Set them

about eighteen
inches apart. —
The largest flowers
are sometimes
nearly six inches
across. The Zin-
niaS are coarse

plants, and we do
not suppose every

must oiehdbick that there are always places in the gar-

den where large, and even coarse, plants look well, and those that are more delicate are useless,

\s
A \e
¢. =A \\ ebk” TAM S
Gy ates AMM ae
we if < Fe

THE CLIMBERS furnish us with nature’s drapery, and nothing produced by art can equal their
elegant grace. As the Lilies surpass in beauty all that wealth or power can procure, or man pro-
duce, so these tender Climbers surpass all the productions of the decorator’s skill. They are
entirely under the control of the skillful gardener and tasteful amateur, and under their guiding
hands make the unsightly building or stump bloom with beauty. The strong growing varieties.
can be made, in a short time, to cover fences, arbors and buildings, and give both grace and
shade. Those of more delicate growth are invaluable for pots, baskets, and other decorative
purposes. ;

The Climbing Plants are nearly all well adapted for culture in vases, and are particularly
well fitted for baskets and the decoration of balconies, &c. No hanging basket can look well
unless furnished with graceful trailing plants, which not only have great beauty in themselves,
but throw a mantle of beauty, if not of charity, over everything unsightly about the basket or
its filling. Several Climbers will be found among the Perennials, but, of course, all the varieties.
described in this Department flower the first season. Some of our annual Climbers are natives.
of tropical countries, and while they do well in the garden, with a little care, are really better for
house culture and for baskets, verandahs, etc.

CALAMPELIS, Nat. Ord. Aignoniacee.
Calampelis scabra, or perhaps more properly Eccremocarpus scaber is a very excellent

climber, with neat foliage, and bright orange flowers borne in racemes, and blooms profusely the
latter part of the season. The seeds are made to vegetate with

some difficulty, and should be grown in a hot-bed or green-house. Pr. ) pn

Good, strong plants should be grown before setting them in the 4 (\ y ‘\

garden, and it is not best to trust the plants in the open groundin — oi o.. Ka VA ,

a climate like most of the Middle and Northern States until the a h | ) “iN ) ) AR ky
ee n|\

first of June. The Calampelis, however, is well suited to house
culture, where it will always give good satisfaction and prove 4°77\7h9)
valuable ; but being a native of Chili, will not endure the changes J ges ') BAN
and harshness of a Northern climate, even in the summer, except Vf ay i
under favorable circumstances. As, however, it is not common, ve
and very pretty, the Calampelis well pays for a little extra care on the part of the tasteful florist.

CARDIOSPERMUM, Nat. Ord. Sapzndacee.
Cardiospermum Halicacabum is a curious, half-hardy annual, from India, we believe, though
some of the species are found in almost all tropical countries. It
is called Ballooon Vine, and Love in a Puff, on account of the
inflated seed-capsule seen in the engraving. In some countries
the leaves are cooked and eaten, and in others the plant is supposed
to contain very great medicinal properties. With us it is only val-
uable as a good summer climber, and really more curious than
beautiful. Sow seed under glass, and if planted in the garden, find
it a sheltered situation. Like many southern climbers, it needs

favoring in the garden, but gives a good account of itself m the house.
90

AY eer oy

Cole a Ce ne

ZUG 7) CRY > COS ee x ES Ss
COBQEA, Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

The Cobea scandens is one of the most beautiful of our climbing annuals, on account of its
large size, rapid growth, fine foliage, and large, bell-shaped flowers, about an inch and a half
=e ips across and two inches in length. When strong plants are

a > yy : a OK set out early in the spring, and in a good soil, they often

A J @ ANAS WMA Nas grow twenty or thirty feet in length, branching freely, and
oaks Y | ( covering a large surface. Plants commence to flower when

. 4s quite young and continue in bloom until removed or killed
by frost. In the autumn, plants can be taken up with care,
potted, and removed to the house where they will flourish
and flower during the winter. The flowers are at first green,
but gradually change to a deep, violet blue. The seed
requires some care in starting, and much success is not to be
anticipated in sowing the seed in the garden. Put the seeds
in moist earth, edge down, and do not water until the young
plants appear above the surface, unless the pots are in a
warm place and the earth becomes exceedingly dry. Cobceas

set ina row, two feet apart, Snpported by brush six feet high, make an elegant screen.

CONVOLVULUS, Nat. Ord. Convolvulacee.

Convolvulus major, the old Morning Glory, is the best known and most popular, and all
things considered, we are almost prepared to say the best annual climber we possess. The seeds
germinate so readily that they can be grown in the garden

in any corner where the plants are needed, and almost at g p> :
any time. ‘Ihe flowers we need tell no one are beautiful, WES\,

and of a great variety of colors. Their growth is so rapid a, Av.
that they cover an arbor or trellis in a very short time, “ap eZy
_ though it is important that support should be supplied as \ 2 A~<
soon as the young plants show a disposition to run, for if “SNe
this is neglected too long they willl not readily attach x
themselves. The only fault that can be urged against the <» ee
Convolvulus is the fact that its flowers are open only in the RAG
early part of the day, the brightest about sunrise, but a sight Zz
of a good “‘ patch”’ of these flowers in the ‘“ dewy morn”’ is i a aes a q
a feast for a whole day, and quite enough to tempt any lover ig NS i
of the beautiful to rise early to see and enjoy their glory. “gf t Mie
Indeed, we have known several fits of early rising induced
by the beauty of the Morning Glory, and yet, we are glad to say, without serious results.

DOLICHOS, Nat. Ord. Legumznose.

Very beautiful climbing plants, resembling the running bean, but the flowers are more beanti-
ful, as the common name (Hyacinth Bean) indicates. The seed-pods are as pretty as the flowers,
= ba being, in the purple-flowered variety, a beautiful purple,
shining as though freshly varnished. The large varieties
grow from six to twenty feet in height, but the growth
upward may be checked by pinching off the tops. Plant
the seeds in the garden where the plants are desired,
selecting as warm and dry a spot as possible. Give just
the treatment required for our more tender running beans,
like the Lima. Most of the varieties are eaten in some
a Parts of Europe. A dwarf white variety grows only
ne ) about four or five feet in height. The Dolichos is not
ca only the prettiest of our bean-like climbers, but is
one of the ornamental species that not only flourishes in
the hot weather of summer, but rejoices in heat, drouth and a warm, sandy soil. This makes
it particularly valuable to Americans, as our flowering beans usually suffer in a dry time.
91

—

(nl Ml
SY y a)

=
| EX

| ai i)

chip, Sy
1B S320 e ea f
i ER es psa NG “thew

GOURDS AND CUCUMBERS, (ORNAMENTAL,) Nat. Ord. Cucurbitacee.

The Gourds are a coarse class of plants, liked principally on account of their curiously formed
and often strangely colored fruits. ‘The foliage, however, is abundant, the leaves generally large,
and useful for cover-

ing old trees, fences,
arbors;-etc;, Wire cul-

required for squashes,
melons, etc. Some

i \ :
\ | ays growing all the odd
; o © Gomed and colored

! tas we saw some very
w large and varied col-
WY Ge lections. This, how-
f= ever, is a “hobby”
we do not much admire, for we can get more real beauty with far less trouble. However, we
garden for pleasure, and if it is obtained in this way, we certainly shall not complain.

IPOMGQEA, Nat. Ord. Convolvulacee.

Under the name of Convolvulus we have described the Morning Glory, which is by some
called Ipomcea purpurea ; but the Ipomceas proper are a genus of very beautiful Convolvulacez,
widely distributed over all warm climates, and a few
extending into North America. Some of the varieties <=,
of Ipomeea are exceedingly large and fine, excelling even \\\W™
the best Convolvulus. Others, like the Cypress Vine, |
which we show in the engraving, have small flowers, /
of the brightest colors, and the most delicate foliage
imaginable. The Ipomoea is generally more delicate than
the Convolvulus, and should be classed among the ten-
der annuals, and therefore will succeed best if started in
the hot-bed, and afterwards planted in a sheltered and
warm situation. ‘The Ipomceas are all desirable for pots,
baskets, etc., for the house. For hanging baskets and green-house decoration, the Ipomoeas hold
a prominent place, and will well repay for any extra care they may require.

LOASA, Nat. Ord. Loasacee.

The Loasa is a good climber, with curious, handsome flowers, which it bears in great abun-
—— dance. ‘The flowers are of the size shown

S / in the engraving, bright in color, being yel-
low and red. The branches are covered
with stinging hairs that give pain when
touched, so that a good deal of care must be
exercised when handling the plants. The
Loasa is a native of Chili and Peru, and
@ though seldom seen in American gardens,
is quite commonly found in some sections
of Europe. A plant or two will give a
good deal of pleasure for a season or so,
until one becomes familiar with it, and we
ANA have known several important lessons
— taught by the Loasa, to thoughtless people

who are so apt to handle and pick flowers in other people’s gardens; a very thoughtless practice.

inl

SS eb Hee ————— fos aad J
N Gy ge HE SS Rr) I£& Gai ey
aS (4 AeA > S yf} i BE h Soy, sa
Toe Le ea Sw a
da Zee) BAAN TZ Vk at IY rarefied Dra 3

MAURANDYA, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Maurandya is a graceful, rather delicate climber from Mexico, bearing flowers very
much resembling the Antirrhinum, the principal difference being in the mouth. The Maurandya
is almost too delicate for out-door culture in the Northern and
Middle States, but does remarkably well for baskets, vases,
ctc., in sheltered positions. Plants should be grown in the
hot-bed or green-house, and if designed for the garden, should
not be put out until the weather is quite warm; late in the
spring or early summer. Few climbers do better for green-
\ house culture. Growth of plant, five or six feet, and the foli-
age abundant, a very desirable trait in a climbing plant, as
half the beauty, at least, of a climbing plant is its foliage. The
flowers of the Maurandya, however, are of good size and form
and color, being about the size and appearance of Digitalis or
Antirrhinum, and the colors different shades of blue, white

NY,
q|

= Y
=

and mauve, and the whole plant pleasant to look upon.

PEAS, FLOWERING, (Lathyrus,) Nat. Ord. Leguminose.

The Flowering Peas are among the most useful and beautiful of all our hardy annuals.
Nothing can be better for large bouquets, as the flowers are lively and delicate, varying in color

from white to the darkest purple imaginable, and
including the most lively pinks; and as fragrant as
Mignonette. For a hedge or screen, or little
groups supported by common brush, the Sweet
Pea is not excelled. If the soil is rich they will ,
grow five feet in height, and continue to flower all AY
the summer unless the season is too hot and dry. {
The Pea luxuriates in a cool, moist soil, and in a |
damp season. Cut the flowers freely and do not \

LY a>
} fe I) /,

will!
in

allow seeds to form except on a few plants which S \ TTT f
are designed for seed-bearing. Sow the seed four fy i
inches deep, and as early in the spring as possible. ‘j ) \
Don’t wait for fair weather. Hoe the earth
towards the plants a little, as for common garden
peas, but do not form a ridge, and furnish support
early. Use plenty of seed, so that they will not be
further than an inch apart. The engraving shows
flowers of about the natural size. I am anxious to
encourage the culture of this sweet flower. There
are several varieties called winged, on account of a wing-like attachment to the seed-pod. They

are not really climbers, but creepers; the flowers are small, and they are hardly worth cultivating.
THUNBERGIA, Nat. Ord. Acanthacee.

The Thunbergias are good annual climbers for the garden, but very much better for the
house and conservatory, where they grow well and flower beautifully. They need support, like
all the climbers, but we have seen them do well when
allowed to run over the ground, making a very pretty
bed. For baskets and similar purposes, the Thunbergia
should be more generally used, as it is far superior to
a score of weedy plants that seem, strangly, to have been
adopted for this work. The Thunbergia starts rather
slowly at first, but when it begins to run makes a rapid
growth. ‘The engraving shows the flowers of natural
size, but they form usually more in clusters. The seed
requires conservatory or hot-bed treatment, but plants are grown easily from cuttings. The
flowers are white, buff, or orange, generally with a dark eye.

\ \
KN AW

TROP_AOLUM, Nat. Ord. Tropeolacee.

Tropzeolum majus is a fine climber, growing ten or twelve feet in height, comprising sev-
eral varieties, differing in the color of both flower and foliage.

admirable for the house in the wint

er.

lively green, in others very
dark. The flowers are of
all shades of yellow, scar-
let, striped and_ spotted.
The engraving of trellis
shows the habit of the
plant. Seed may be planted
in the open ground, or
under glass. T. Lobbi-
anum is very desirable for
the greenhouse, and will
answer well for a summer
climber when started in
the house. T. peregrinum,
of which we also give an
engraving, is the popu-
lar Canary Flower. The

Tropeolums grow freely 2

from cuttings, and are

In some the leaves are a bright,

For large baskets and vases, especially for hanging bas-

kets, they are exceedingly desirable, drooping over the sides to the ground, making a charming

and. graceful dis-
play of foliage.
When the branches
have become as
long as desired,
they should be
pinched off. Sorne
gardeners __ think
Tropzolums are of
SO rampant a
growth that when
planted in baskets
they rob more deli-
cate plants,__of
their share of nour-
ishment, but we
have never found
this a serious ob-
jection, especially
where water was
given pretty freely ;
and a basket ex-

MTU YQ
een

\ (il,
Wy

Lif yp
/ {7 pp
L/ fp

\
\

posed tothe air on
every side, without
plenty of water, is
only a snare and a
delusion. If any
trouble of this kind
is noticed, pinch
the shoots back
freely, and this will
check the growth
of roots. 1 lt asa
good thing to have
a few vigorous
plants, those whose
growth need check-
ing instead of en-
couraging, aS an
abundance of foli-
age is thus secured
beyond a _contin-
gency. We give
an engraving of the

Tropzeolum flower of full natural size, and can recommend the family as worthy a place in any
garden, and an honorable position among the choicest of our annual Climbers.

ey,

WWW

]

(==,

SJ |
Wy
4

F, i\
<\\| org v
\ * \ K\s aT WS
aS Scns iy
a) ys SQ 3
NO) AB <=
Gre Te

SS:
=.
SSS

PY y ” , S WT x
INN \
eh) Dal

wi)

<ZREING}
NS
i

THE EVERLASTING, or ETERNAL FLOWERS, as they are sometimes called, have of late
attracted a good deal of attention in all parts of the world, and are becoming generally culti-
vated. The plants do not appear very important when the garden is gay with scores of Flora’s
choicest gems, and are, therefore, often considered hardly worth saving, and the flowers remain
ungathered. In the winter, however, when it is desirable to decorate church or school room or
home, the Everlastings are a treasure. These flowers lessen the regret we all feel when the
season of blossoms is over, because they enable us to transfer a little of summer beauty to the
parlor. They retain both form and color for years, and make excellent bouquets, wreaths,
and every other desirable winter ornament. The flowers should generally be picked as soon
as they expand, or a little before, and hung up in small bunches, and so that the stems will dry
straight. If the bunches are too large they will mildew. The Gomphrenas must not be
gathered until fully developed. Those who are familiar with the usual style of winter deco-
ration, and realize how gloomy a room is made by the heavy, dark wreaths of cedars and hem-
locks, unrelieved by a flower or berry, or any bright color, will thank us for urging them to
save every flower that will keep its color during the winter. Make all wreaths light and airy,
and enliven them with bright flowers.

ACROCLINIUM, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Acroclinium is one of the most beautiful of the everlasting family. It is of strong
growth, about eighteen inches in height, and RR
bears a great number of pink and white me a [
daisy-like flowers, with a yellow centre. B i B ral
They should be gathered the first day they Vy | : Wy
open, or even before fully open, and dried. AAS
If allowed to remain too long on the plant, Ke 7 aaa

the center becomes black in drying, but if
gathered young they retain their natural —
color. The engraving shows the size of the
plant, and the appearance of the flower when
fully expanded. There are two varieties, a bright pink and

AMMOBIUM, Nat. Ord: Composite.

Ammobium is a small but very pretty little flower, pure white, and therefore very
useful in making up. The plant,
which grows about eighteen
inches, is stiff and angular in ap-
pearance. This is one of the
hardiest of the everlastings. Some
florists use this flower very liber-
ally, even in the summer, in the
ie BB bipl eee making of small bouquets. Like

Ih V >> | SS ~~ the Acroclinium and very many
of our everlastings, it is a native of Australia. The bud, as shown in the engraving, is very pretty.

Stes BY

GOMPHRENA, Nat. Ord. Amarantacee.

A well known Everlasting, sometimes called English Clover.
Flowers should not be picked until well matured and of full size,
s near the end of summer. The seed of the
Gomphrena does not germinate very well
in the open ground, and it is therefore
best to sow it in a hot-bed if possible. Set
the plants about a foot apart. About eight-
een inches in height. Fine for the garden
== as well as for drying. Makes a good sum-

== mer hedge. It the cottony coating which

surrounds it is removed, the seed will be more certain to grow, as in wet weather it may cause rot.

HELICHRYSUM, Nat. Ord. Composite.
An exceedingly handsome class, mostly large and showy plants,
of great value for winter bouquets and other floral ornaments. The
flowers are large and full, and of a good variety . So
of colors. Plants generally about two feet in 2 18]
height. Cut just before the flowers fully expand. ga\
Even the buds are handsome and make up
beautifully. Always save a few buds to use with
the flowers. Plant about a foot apart. Seeds
germinate readily, even in the open ground.
The colors are, white, yellow, and red of very
many brownish shades. It is the largest and
boldest and one of the best of the Everlastings.

HELIPTERUM, Nat. Ord. Composiie.

Helipterum Sanfordii is one of the prettiest little everlast-
ting flowers that grows, as all will believe after a look at the
engraving, and when we inform them that it is a truthful rep-
resentation of a cluster of these flowers, of the natural size,
and that they are a deep, rich, golden, shining yellow. The
plant, which is about a foot in height, and branching, bears very
many of these clusters. They should be taken when the buds
are about opening, tied in bunches and
» hung up in a shady place, and the
“4s flowers will open in the drying pro-
cess, and will retain their brightness
_ and color for very many years. The
A! \\ = > Helipterum is found wild in Australia,
i eae oe and we believe, in sections of Africa.

RHODANTHE, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Rhodanthe is one of the prettiest and most delicate of the
Everlastings. It has been in cultivation for many years, and we
have seen it in Europe in the conservato-
ries, where it was once much prized as a
pot plant, and a good specimen, bearing a
hundred of its pretty flowers is really a
beautiful object. The Rhodanthe is a
native of Northern Australia. Some care
is necessary in starting the seeds, but
after good plants are grown we never fail
to obtain flowers in abundance. ‘The

flowers should be gathered before they fully == Ni
expand, as if allowed to grow too long, they open too much and lose their beautiful bell form.

ABTS
7 ON

WrS
ieee eg ee

WAITZIA, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Waitzias are an interesting class of annuals, bearing their dry or everlasting flowers in
clusters. The flowers are very good, though showing too much of the
centre, which becomes discolored unless picked early. With this precau-
tion, however, they make a desirable addition to our
stock of Everlastings. All the varieties have yellow
£ flowers. The seeds are very fine and should be sown
under glass, or much. success is not to be anticipated.
Sometimes when we give such instructions, some people
are just contrary enough to try to show us we are mis-
taken, and that they can succeed in growing plants in the
open air, and generally succeed because they are deter-
mined to do so; zeal and determination are the ele-
ments of success, and the open ground often fur-

nishes the warmth and moisture necessary to germinate the most delicate seeds.

XERANTHEMUM, Nat. Ord. Composite.

Xeranthemums are free-blooming annuals of a very neat, compact habit, and growing less
than a foot in height. are

The leaves are silvery os & | \ed fof? Se

NG e PN yy @ Vig:
and flowers abundant x“ J we I Yas
on strong stems, and *Q\® ye A @ / MB
are purple, blue and & EVI

LADS

white. There are both
double and single vari-
eties, specimens of
both of which are
seen in the engravings.
Seeds germinate freely ; plants transplant well when small, and shouia be set about ten inches apart.

GYPSOPHILA, Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

The Gypsophilas, though not Everlastings, are among the most valuable flowers we have for
bouquet making, either green or dried. Every one knows that florists
add much to the beauty of bouquets by a
delicate net-work of fine flowers, which ap-
pear like an airy veil, toning down the bright
colors. For this purpose the Gypsophila is
used, and we commend it to our readers as
one of the most desirable plants known for
ornamental purposes. It dries admirably,
and is a treasure in winter. It flowers the first season, but will continue to bloom several years.

STATICE, Nat. Ord. Plumbaginacee.

The Statice is an extensive series of herbaceous plants, bearing their small flowers in pani-
cles. They are not Everlastings, oo, , Fa
but, like the Gypsophilas, are of very
great value for drying, as they retain
their color when dried, and work
up with the true Everlastings in
bouquets and floral ornaments to
very great advantage. They are
also equally useful in summer for
bouquets of fresh flowers. There
are several annuals, almost as many
perennials, yellow, pink, rose and =
blue. We give an engraving of one of the best varieties, S. latifolia. For others, see seed list.
97

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SS

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Ne

h y

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y iy ig

iol) > \Y
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i YLOE YM a Ww f
im ty XQ xy
& [= J
= .a >

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ee 6S me Ga
SEOe > B=
nj Se EE

Sixt Poe

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.

THOSE who grow Everlastings for winter decoration will need a few of the Grasses to work
up with them. If the grasses would retain their color, as do the flowers, it would be a great
uae. blessing, but they lose, even when dried with care in the shade, most of

\\ip 2 their green. color. In Europe, the Grasses are grown extensively and
dyed of various colors, and in this condition we import them, and many
varieties are really elegant, especially the Stzpa fennata. Even without
this coloring they will be found very useful. Some persons are quite ingen-
ious in dyeing the Grasses, and make them look very pretty with a little
coloring matter. We know that this coloring of flowers and grasses is

not exactly in good taste, as a rule, but we are almost ready to say,
ses anything to enliven winter, and these Grasses do look pretty when worked
== up judiciously — not lavishly — with winter wreaths. Cut about the time

AGROSTIS NEBULOSA. of flowering, tie up in little bunches and
dry in the shade. Those that flower the second year, like the
Stipa and Bromus, must be marked in some way or they will
be destroyed for weeds, as they look so much like common grass.
We have lost a good many crops for the want of this caution.
They are perfectly hardy, and will endure the winter just as well am
as any of our wild grasses. The Agrostis nebulosa is a very fine ze
grass, indeed, so very fine and small
that we can hardly represent it in
an engraving. riza maxima is
the well known shaking grass, really one of the most valuable of
our grasses. There are several varieties of Briza, all but maxima
quite small. Lyriéanthus Ravenne is a perennial grass, perfectly
hardy, and the best large grass we know of for a northern climate
—much better than Pampas Grass, which it resembles. The
flower stems are ten feet in height. Stipa pennata is the beautiful
Feather Grass, really the most graceful and beautiful of all the
small grasses. We show it as grow- .
ing, just as the plant begins to
flower, and also a bunch of the per-
fected grass, as often used for win-
ter ornament. We have named
only a few of the best varieties, but -
a full list of all desirable kinds will be found in our regular seed
list of varieties. Many will be surprised that we have not in this z
page spoken of the beautiful Pam-
pas Grass, which perhaps has no
rival where the winters are not very
severe, but in the Northern and
Middle States it suffers sorely in
the winters. Almost every one,
also, has some favorite variety, and
almost any of the grasses, if gath-
ered at the proper time and well
cured, are useful and handsome in 2
the winter. Cut the grasses be- "===
fore the flowers open, tie up in
little bunches, and hang them in the shade. When sufficiently dry, pack them away out of the
dust. Somewhat of a variety is secured by cutting grass at different stages of growth.

i
id
i

sie

BRIZA MAXIMA.

ERIANTHUS RAVENN~.

Y) 4G
Ve G

STIPA PENNATA.

SS)

Lithographic & Chromo Co.of Rochester NY.

PERENNI

BATOUNAS

IN this section will be found those Biennials and Perennials that do not flower until the
second season. The first summer the plants merely grow and gather a store of strength for
next summer’s flowering, and a stock of material for the next season’s flowers. *The seed may
be sown in early spring with the Annuals, or later in the summer; but if sown late, give the seed-
bed a cool, damp place, or keep the ground shaded and quite moist by artificial shading and
watering, until the plants appear, or very likely the seeds will not germinate. This class of
flowers do not usually keep in bloom a long time, and therefore are not suited for the lawn,
where a continuous show of flowers or pretty foliage is absolutely necessary. To many, how-
ever, the border of Perennials is the most interesting part of the flower garden. Every day
almost it exhibits something new—some flower in bloom that we did not expect to see, or
whose development we had been anxiously watching and awaiting. A pleasure or a surprise,
usually both, await us at almost every visit. What a number of old garden flowers we find in the
Perennial border. The Columbine, Pink, Canterbury Bell, Hollyhock, Sweet William, and a
host of other friends, all find a home in this department. Then the Perennials fill a space that
but for them would be almost destitute of flowers, for after the Bulbs they give us our earliest
spring flowers. The Columbine and Canterbury Bell and Larkspur and Foxglove follow the
Hyacinths and Tulips, and keep us well supplied until the Annuals are in their glory. Always
have a few Perennials, but in a somewhat retired part of the garden, a pleasant border in some
place where you can retire and see a little unadorned beauty. You will enjoy it occasionally
much more than the gayest bed on the lawn. ‘The Perennial Climbers are admirable, and when
we have so few adapted to our climate, should not be neglected.

ADLUMIA, Nat. Ord. Fumariacee.

Adlumia cirrhosa, or Alleghany Vine, is a very pretty native Biennial climber. The princi-
pal attraction consists in its delicate pale green, triply pinnate foliage, the
twining foot-stalks of which act as tendrils. The flowers are pink and white,
not very conspicuous or beautiful, and yet are neat and graceful, and of the
form seen in the engraving. ‘The plant neither runs nor bears flowers the first
season, but the second will often grow twenty feet. Sow seed in the spring, in
a damp, cool place, or keep the ground shaded. Transplant in the autumn, if
possible, though the spring will answer. Although strictly
a biennial, and therefore flowering but once, most persons
would judge it to be a perennial, because in a damp situa-
tion, as on the north side of a porch or fence, self-sown
seed germinate so freely that plants are always in abundance \{
in every stage of growth, so that some are ready to take the ™ =i
place of the old vines each year. The Adlumia is known as the Wood Fringe, and is really
one of the most interesting of our native climbers.

———— ete

oy i rigeS By
Ser 3 OFA TIT a JW. Zax,

ADONIS, Nat. Ord. Ranunculaceae.

Adonis vernalis is the handsomest of the family, and is really a desirable border plant, with
delicate foliage and a large flower, compared to.

Nate” ay the size of the plant, which is only about a foot
Y in height. The blossoms are yellow, produced
in May and June, and on account of this early
© blooming exceedingly valuable. The Adonis.
prefers a rather light soil. Seed may be grown
in the open ground, and success is almost certain.
Flowers cup- ape: This flower is now so seldom seen that it will be pronounced new by many.

ALYSSUM, Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

Alyssum saxatile compactum is an excellent free- “growing Perennial, yet of a compact habit,
and with pretty, small, golden yellow flowers, growing in dense
clusters. Its popular name is Gold Dust. The Alyssum flowers HY 4
very early in the season, when flowers are scarce, and this, with its ¢Styrtoue
other merits, make it quite valuable. Height of plant about ten -
inches, This is one of the really valuable plants that we can
recommend with pleasure, because we know it will more than
meet expectations. The Alyssum is well adapted for rock work, j
and forms an excellent mass fora bed. Seeds grow readily. Plants can be increased by layering.

AQUILEGIA, (Columbine,) Nat. Ord. Renunculacee.
The Aquilegia i is the old and well prized Columbine, of almost every conceivable color, and
‘ singular variations of form. It grows wild in almost every temperate
j country in the world, and we have always heard it called by children the
Wild Honeysuckle. Like a good
many of our Perennials, this
flowers early in the spring. The
name Columbine was given be-
cause the five spurred petals,
with incurved heads, have been.
thought to bear a resemblance to.
five doves, the sepals represent:
ing the wings. Seeds may be
sown in the open ground. A
fine bed of Aquilegias when in flower is a beautiful exhibition. Our engravings show both the
double and single flowers. Plants can be increased by a division of the roots.

CAMPANULA, Nat. Ord. Campanulacee.

The perennial Campanula is the well known, popular, large, blue, bell-shaped flower, known
every where as the Canterbury Bell. The C. medium
is the only variety really entitled to the name, but it
is commonly applied toall. Of late there have been
many new varieties introduced, and some of them
quite valuable. Calycanthema, shown in the engrav-
ing, has the calyx very large, and the same color as
the corolla. There are also double
varieties of every color produced by
the Campanula, white, rose, blue
and lilac. The double varieties,
though curious, are not really so
beautiful as the old single bell.
They lose that light, transparent
grace that is so attractive in a 2
flower. We never yet saw a bell- |

shaped flower improved by doubling —at least we ds not now remember a case 2 the kind.
100

DIANTHUS, Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

Under this name we include three of the most magnificent members of the Floral family, the
rivals of the Rose for queenly honors, the Carnation, the Picotee and Pink. As long as we can
mi remember, these have been the favorite flowers of the

florist, and proud and happy was the man who could
produce a perfect flower. The Carnation, Dianthus
caryophillus, is a grand flower, smooth edged, with
the stripes broad and running from the base to the
outer edge of the petal, as shown in the engraving at
the left. The more clear and defined the stripe the
~ better. The Picotee differs mainly in the coloring,
S’ the stripes running around the edge of the petal, as
shown in the engraving, that is, when perfect, though
there are some very good flowers with narrow and
broken stripes running from the base to the outer
edge of the petals. The Pink, D. hortenszs,is smaller,
more compact and
more mottled than
striped, with white
ground. Seeds of
all may be sown
under glass, or in
the open ground
in the spring, and
the second season

Nii = zz==——=—== will flower. Some \7 | A
will prove poor or single, and these can be pulled up as soon iim er aR
as they show their character. Young plants are perfectly seh re
hardy, and will endure our winters well, but old plants are { | Iii ii

much injured generally. A succession of young plants should
be procured
either from
seeds or lay-
ers every
year. Layer-
ing is simply
cutting a slit
in a young fy.
shoot to ob- WH Il I
struct the flow of sap, and thus aid in the forma-
tion of roots. First cut half way through the
shoot, then make a slit lengthwise about an
. ual inch. Remove the earth a few inches in depth,
and press down the branch so that this slit will
open, and then cover with the soil. Roots will
form where the cut was made, and thus a new
plant will be formed, which can be removed in
the autumn or spring. The layering should be
done in midsummer. The Pink is more hardy
than the others and will not become injured in
the winter, unless the plants are very much
weakened by old age. The engravings show
the Carnation and Picotee on the left of the page,
= and the Pink on the right. The plant of the
Pink is smaller and more compact than the others, and the leaves narrower.

101

DELPHINIUM, Nat. Ord. Ranunculaceae.

The perennial Delphiniums, commonly known as Larkspurs, are valuable plants, the foliage
is ZZ clean and pretty, habit strong and good, the flowering branches
often four feet in height, the spikes of flowers six
inches or more in length, and generally compact.
The prevailing color is blue, and of the most
intense character imaginable. Some varieties
very light, azure blue, others of the darkest in-
digo shades. White and pink sorts are prized
by some, but none are so gorgeous as the bright
blues. Sow the seed in the spring, and very
strong plants will be produced by autumn, that
flower the next spring. Transplant from the
seed-bed early in the fall. Roots of old
: plants may be divided either in the spring or
MEI, === autumn, and thus after good plants are once pro-
cured, they may b y. The name Larkspur is given on account of the spur,

which resembles the spur of a bird, and forms a prominent feature in the flowers of this family.

DIGITALIS, (Foxglove,) Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Digitalis is a stately plant, when well grown, with flower-stems at least three feet in
height. The raceme of flowers is at the extremity of the stem, several (A\.
score of them, and all drooping on one side, and sometimes covering vr
more than half its length, as may be seen in the small engraving. The
flowers are of an irregular bell shape, and the
engraving shows a flower of full size, marked in the

etme.

interior with circular dark spots which are inter-

spersed among a number of delicate, light colored *
hairs. There are several varieties, differing some- i
what in form and color, but we have shown the y s
general form, and the colors are white and different oN De f
shades of purple. The Digitalis is a native of Q& ian hf

Europe, and the old variety, D. purpurea, may be
found on the sides of almost any of: the shady
country lanes of England. The Digitalis is used
in medicine. Its common name is Foxglove. Per-
fectly hardy, and seeds may be sown in the spring,
in the garden, and transplanted as desired. In the
autumn large plants can be divided, and thus
plants may be increased indefinitely, but it is well
to secure a few fresh plants from seed occasionally, as is in this way only new colors and varie-
ties are obtained.

HEDYSARUM, (French Honeysuckle,) Nat. Ord. Leguminose.

Pretty much all the species of this genus are handsome flowering plants, producing racemes
of attractive, pea-formed flowers. H. corcnarium is the best, and there is a
scarlet and a white variety. Strange to say, this Hedysarum is called
in England and America the French Honeysuckle, though it orig-
& inated in Italy, and not in France, and bears no kind of resemblance to the
Honeysuckle, but more resembles clover, and as the children suck the tubes
@ of clover flowers and call them honeysuckles, perhaps this accounts for the
name. It is used in the South of Europe as green feed for cattle. It bears
some resemblance to the Scarlet Clover, but is a much bolder and hand-
| = somer flower, and really a most desirable Perennial. Every one who
secures a few plants will be highly pleased with the investment. Perfectly hardy, and seed may
be sown in the open ground.

102

4 a te,
\aA = am
TKS

Uy, Gyr x
es LG on Sh. ware ) _ Wil ~~. fi

HOLLYHOCK, (Althea rosea,) Nat. Ord. alancee:
Every one knows the old Hollyhock, that all the children have played with, and that was so
interesting and useful as a trap for bees, when you and I, dear
reader, were young. Then it grew tall enough almost for a flag
staff, with here and there a single flower about the shape, and half
as large as a tea-cup, and every one of them, not appropriated to
other uses, turned into a cheese about as big as a cent, which the
girls thought made splendid necklaces. This was the old Holly-
hock —not very pretty, not very graceful— and yet there were
places where the Hollyhock of by-gone days looked well; at
least we thought so once, and we have no desire to correct that
opinion. But look from the picture we have drawn to the one
made by our engraver. Here we have a stately flower, and one
showing as much grace as the finest architectural column the
skill of man ever devised. No Rip Van Winkle, just awakened
from a forty years’ sleep, would recognize the modern Hollyhock
as akin to any flower he had ever before beheld. Indeed, when
made up in bouquets, pretty good judges are often at fault. A
good, double, clear, white Hollyhock is a very good substitute for
a Camellia or a white Rose, as a center of a bouquet. I do not
now think of one as good, except the double white Balsam. In
= situations suitable for tall flowers, we know of nothing better than
- the Hollyhock; and yet the improved varieties do not grow very
— = high, from three to four feet being about the average. The Holly-
hock is biennial. New plants are obtained from seed and by dividing the roots.

HONESTY, (Lunaria,) Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

Lunaria biennis is what is known as Honesty in all our gardens, and by all florists. There
are a good many varieties, all, we think, native of Southern and
Central Europe, and all tall-growing biennials and perennials.
Honesty, the cultivated variety, bears racemes of pretty, single,
purple flowers, and our engraving shows the general habit of the
plant, as well as the size and form of the flower, a single specimen
of which we give. The pod which contains the seeds is the most
interesting to many growers, and indeed the plant perhaps is
cultivated mainly for its peculiar seed-pouches, which are very
large, perhaps two inches in length by one in width, very
thin, and silvery white when ripe. These silvery pouches are
curious and pretty, and are grown for winter ornaments, for which
use they are very desirable. We have endeavored to show the
appearance of these curious pods, each raceme of flowers produc- a
ing about such a cluster as shown in the engraving. The plant is very andy: ; two yaar in Height

Cana Nat. Ord. Polemoniacee.

The Ipomopsis are very beautiful plants,
with long, elegant spikes of rich orange
and scarlet flowers, excellent for conser-
vatory and out-door decoration. The foli-
mj age is very fine, like that of the Cypress
~e Vine, giving great beauty to the plant,
d? which grows usually from three to four feet
= in height, and keeps in flower a long time.
The plant is a little difficult to keep over
the winter, but generally proves quite
_ hardy in a dry place. A wet situation is

==sure to destroy them in winter, causing
decay at the surface of the ground. With this exception, there are few plants of easier culture.
103

Wes}

Wey E
ee A RUF: ( at
OO ade ae i MER RE BR aX 4 ( EN CSY' SSN
PW < Ge P i Nea ca Ue 4 ~\ \ TR
_ oe fi WN 5 SY) ANY F (LO SN re a C22 A YF ae Wa pe,

LINUM, (Flax,) Nat. Ord. Linacee.
Every one is acquainted with our common flax, which is a Linum, and has been cultivated
for a good many thousand years, certainly since the time
.J when Joseph gained such distinction in Egypt, for we

cD,
« : An ; / |

lj - read that Pharaoh clothed him in fine linen; and we are
NAN, - also told in the history of the plagues that occurred in the
RYN" \ time of Moses, that the flax was smitten. There are sev-
NA ty Wy eral varieties of ornamental flax well worthy of culture,
KK ix 2,4 however, which few people know. ‘The plants are very
AN iis graceful, the foliage and stems delicate, and the flowers
2m™ WZ

Wiz on the light, spray-like plants, seem floating in the air.

B= Seeds may be sown either under glass or in the garden.
Height one foot. . There are several varieties, white, blue, rose and yellow, and all desirable.

PAPAVER, (Poppy,) Nat. Ord. Papaveracee.

There are a few Perennial Poppies that are not only worthy of cultivation, but exceedingly
valuable to the gardener. The Oriental Poppy, for
instance, which is of the most intense scarlet, with
a blackish or purplish blotch at the base of each
petal, we have seen six inches in diameter. It isa
monstrous single flower, and the flower stems gen-
erally reach three or four feet in height. There are
other varieties somewhat similar in character, but
we have never found any better. All the perennial
Poppies are perfectly hardy, and seed may be sown
in the open ground. Our engravings show the
appearance of the plant when in bloom, as well as
the form of the flower, of course much reduced in \N
size. The single large perennial Poppies are a
great addition to the herbace-
ous border, and are of great
value among shrubbery, as they
tend to relieve and lighten up
the usual dark and sombre
character borders or clumps of
shrubbery assume after the
early summer. A few plants of =

== 08.

\ ) A a g
NVA
annual Poppies, and other free- == \ |

growing hardy annuals, will give the shrubberies a cheerful and graceful wildness quite charming.

PENTSTEMON, Nat. Ord. Scrophulariacee.

The Pentstemon is one of the best of the perennial border plants. The very pretty long-
tubed flowers grow in panicles,
and are purple, blue, scarlet,
rose and white. The Pentste-
mons are all natives of Amer-
ica, and are very popular in all
parts of the world. Our en-
gravings show the habit of the
plant, and also a portion of a
panicle, with flowers of natural
size.. Seeds may be sown in
May, in a cool, shady place, or
<== under glass. The flowers of

5 =~ different varieties present a great
difference in appearance, some with a bold, open mouth and a generous throat, while others are
of the form shown in the engraving.

104

V/s b We — be
\S Roy 4 g . =

Ee) §

24S) Te eS Bn S a : AON
wy , Nia BES ee ath P= bd G ) ATI ma

PEAS, PERENNIAL, (Lathyrus,) Nat. Ord. Leguminose.

The Perennial SOAS to our fancy, is one of the prettiest climbers that grows, and peculiarly
adapted to our climate. When in Europe, we saw it cover-
ing hundreds of hum-
ble cottages, causing
the otherwise un-
sightly buildings to
bloom with beauty.
- We determined to
grow this fine climb-
er and advise others
to do the same. It is
perfectly hardy in
this climate, dies
down to the ground every winter and starts again in the spring, making a rapid growth, and
properly trained, reaching ten or more feet in height, and flowering for a long time. The seed
does not grow very readily sometimes, but roots can be obtained, and at a very moderate price.
The engraving shows something of the habit of the plant, and also the size of the flowers, which
grow in large clusters.

PRIMULA, Nat. Ord. Primulacee.

The Primulas do not succeed in our climate, either North or South, East or West, in any
locality that we are aware of. In the moist, mild
climate of England, and particularly of Scotland,
the Primula family present a gorgeous array in the
early spring. The Polyanthus is the favorite spring
flower of English cottage gardens. Indeed, we
found Spring Flower to be the common name in
many localities for the P. polyanthus. The P. au-
ricula is extensively grown in Europe in conserva-
tories, or, more generally, houses exclusively de-
voted to the culture of this flower. In this country =
all do well in a cold house, but in the open ground —
succeed best in a Northern border, as the winter’s sun is injurious. P. veris is the English Cow-
slip. and P. vulgaris is the sweet and beautiful English Wild Primrose, that every one who spent
his childish days among the green lanes and copices of England, ardently loves. Seed in our
country must be sown under glass.

PYRETHRUM, Nat. Ord. Composite.

The Pyrethrum, like the Aster, which it resembles, once was a rather poor single flower, and
though somewhat showy, could claim but little

beauty. The old Feverfew, with a small, double,
US ae white flower, was fin a long time the best

JAG) KS :
F A Ke) di A. Rr \Ws y of bright polars They come only partly double

ge Vii i a) , from seed, but are well worthy of cultivation. We
, have found the plants to be entirely hardy in this
= section. It would be well to sow seed under glass,
but we have grown it by sowing seeds in the open
ground. A good double Pyrethrum is as desirable as a good Aster, quite as large and as double,
and if seed would uniformly or even generally produce double flowers, we would advise every
‘one to introduce it to their gardens; but from the best seed we could ever obtain from the most
reliable growers of France, the proportion of good double flowers was very small. We shall
continue to try, and hope for better results.

105

ROCKET, (Hesperis,) Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

‘The Sweet Rocket is a very hardy biennial, bearing clusters of single flowers, about the size
; shown in the engraving, and very much resembling the Stock,

single, and fragrant during the evening. The best colors
are purple and white. There are other colors which are not
desirable, and a double white,
which produces no seed, and
which we have not succeeded
in naturalizing in America.
TCL The plant, with fair culture,.
IN will grow eighteen inches in

, height, is perfectly hardy, and
seed will germinate readily in
the open ground. The Rocket
is thoroughly hardy, but the
little pest that makes our Rad-
ishes ** wormy”’ is very fond of its root. and sometimes causes the destruction of the plant.

STOCK, BROMPTON, (Mathiola incana,) Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

The Brompton Stock is the biennial of the Ten-Weeks Stock. The plant is of a larger
growth than the annual, the flowers larger, and the aie
spikes longer and bolder. It would be difficult to ® SD
find any flower more gorgeous than a good Bromp- g ted
ton Stock, as seen growing in the gardens of the N\
mild districts of Europe. We have measured 3% Xu
spikes of blossoms nearly a foot in length, with Yy\ ) Br x
the flowers as compact as possible. In the colder An OVS ; M) } ) ‘gy
districts, the Brompton Stock is grown in conserva- <= g ell
tories. Unfortunately this Stock can not endure = ¢( ) ald ill!
our winters, but if plants are grown in the open ae ae |
ground during the summer, in autumn they can be nomoned to the house, where they will flower
ll if not kept too hot and dry. In the spring, the plants may be again transferred to the gar-
den, where they will furnish a good many flowers during the early summer.

SWEET WILLIAM (Dianthus barbatus,) Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacee.

The Sweet William is a very old and popular garden flower, but not now so often as for-
merly seen in our gardens. Indeed, the system of
bedding with Geraniums, and other bright flowers:
and ornamental foliaged plants, and the introduc-
tion of the Phlox and Petunia, and similar valuable
annuals that give a constant display during the sum-
mer, has almost driven a good many of our really
gooa flowers from the garden. A re-action, how-
ever, has commenced, and both amateurs and pro-
fessional gardeners are beginning to look about for
their old favorites, so long neglected and almost
3 forgotten. They are not quite content, however, to
accept the old flowers as they were thirty years ago ;
but are making earnest efforts for their improvement.
In this improvement the Sweet William, like the
Hollyhock, has largely shared. The best varieties.
_ are of exceedingly beautiful colors, very large, and
: almost perfect in form, with trusses of great size.

Treatment as for Carnation. The Hanes are perfectly hardy, and may be increased by division
of the roots. There are very good double varieties, though a single Sweet William is much to
be preferred to any double we have ever seen.

106

je Eo.

A
Y

= . S> b
ih Es. Sq)
Ff Uy

ZL, q al : Z Cy oe i
= x BOR ST SSB cn) lk Ea NPY.
wee 5 ea ee AN ay Tex, ER BAS Gp yA» FE CPN
LOK ieee cI eA VF _..w) TITS

VALERIANA, Nat. Ord. Valerianacee.

The Valerian is a beautiful border plant that we can recommend to all lovers of flowers for
the hardy, perennial border. There are a good many
ote species of this genus, a few of them natives of Southern
a Ney Ey OVS a countries, tender, and only suitable for green-house cul-
8 d¢ Ole ture, but they are mostly hardy, natives of Switzerland,
Austria, the Pyrenees and Scotch Mountains. Nothing
can be more beautiful than the chalk cliffs of England
when covered with Valerian, as we saw them one glorious
July day, a few years since. The improved or garden
22 varieties are beautiful, bearing large corymbs of small
flow ers, scarlet, white and red, the plant from two to three feet in height. The Valerian will
bear shade and moisture.

. TA

WALLFLOWER, (Cheiranthus Cheiri,) Nat. Ord. Crucifere.

The Wallflower resembles the Brompton Stock in appearance, habit and necessary treatment.
In the South of Germany, and in England, in early spring, the
gardens are gorgeous with Wallflowers, while the fragrance pecu- WY
liar to this flower perfumes the air. By growing plants in the \
ground and transplanting to pots in the autumn, or better, by plac-
ing the young plants in pots when taken from the seed-bed, and
sinking the pots to the rim in earth, good plants will be secured
for winter flowering in the house. Give a cool room, and plenty
of water. By placing the pots in a pit or cold cellar, with a little
light the plants may be kept alive during the winter, and until time
to remove to the garden. For the conservatory the Wallflower is 1
desirable. While the Brompton Stocks are clear white, purple, pink, &c., all the colors of the
Wallflower possess more or less of yellow, the richest being deep, velvety, brownish red.

DICTAMNUS, Nat. Ord. Rutacee.

The Dictamnus Fraxinel/a is a desirable hardy perennial with racemes of large, showy flowers
| AY he oc often 2 foot in ee He
IN \\ if! MN) HS two varieties, white an

\N 7 / ee ae pink. The fragrance of these
K flowers is pleasant to most
people, being somewhat aro-
_ matic or resinous. The plant
Ss attains a height of two or three
feet, and the leaves being beau-
tiful in form and color, it is de-
sirable in the border for a sum-

> FAN
— Ah),
SS Ay

a \ AN mer hedge or screen, and for

4 i\ all decorative purposes, where

‘ f hk | y) large flowers are admissable, it

AAD? is very useful. Seeds germi-

DICTAMNUS — PLANT AND FLOWER. nate freely if sown either in

the autumn or spring, and we have never known a plant injured in the winter. Plants can be
safely transplanted or shipped at either season.

107

i 2 é
‘ @ as ue
2 pi
( bh (zs of Bey
C , & SORE sae,
KU

STAI

Eri)

THE names in this department will have a familiar sound to all lovers of house plants. The
Heliotrope, the Calceolaria, Gloxinia, Chrysanthemum, Cineraria, Geranium, Fuschia, etc., are
associated with our earliest recollections of floriculture. Most persons procure house plants
from the green-houses, and when but one or two of a kind are needed this is a good plan.
It is also well to purchase oi the nearest florist, if good plants can be obtained, because ao
can then make the selection personally, and your Hen ist needs, and we hope uke We
deserves, encouragement. Some, however, have green-houses and desire
many plants, and others take pride and pleasure in growing from seed -— in
watching every day’s mysterious growth, from the tiny seed-leaf to the full
developed plant, in all its grand display of beauty. To all such we shall
be happy to furnish seeds. As the seeds in this department are mostly
delicate, it is best to make several sowings at different times. The most ex-
perienced gardeners always do this. Most of the varieties known as green-
house plants will, of course, succeed as well in the dwelling house as the
green-house, if we can only secure the conditions necessary to their health,
and which the conservatory or green-house furnishes. These are light, warmth, =
moisture, air, and occasionally a little sunshine. Some may think that they soppy al aa
conditions, and yet the plants do not flourish. The difficulty general is that we keep our
living rooms too warm for plants, and too warm
also for our own good, The atmosphere of the living
room, also, is too dry.
The florist syringes
his plants, and throws
water on the _ paths,
and all about his
houses, so as to ob-
tain a moist atmos-
phere by its evapora-
tion. In our living
rooms we provide no water for evaporation, and the consequence
is a dry and unhealthy atmosphere, generally
filled with fine dust from the carpets. Keep the
plants clean and _ comfort-
able, with thermometer not
over seventy or seventy-five
in the day, and not more than
fifty or sixty in the night.
Keep the leaves clean. Smooth
leaves, like those of the Ca-
mellia and Oleander, should
be washed with a sponge, but

some rough or woolly leaved =
plants, like the Begonia, dislike wetting of the foliage. This is particularly thee case with ce
Chinese Primulas. The engravings at the right, commencing at top of page, show the Heliotrope,

Calceolaria, and Cineraria; on the left, the Clianthus.
108

LBS

\
}

TEND

R BU

¢ & Chromo Cv. of Rochester. S.-Y

Lithographi

Pasi ‘ WA

THNDER BULBS AND TUBERS.

THE Tender or Summer Bulbs, in this latitude, during August and the early part of Septem-
ber, are truly grand beyond comparison. They may not be equally gorgeous in some places, but
our experience and observation is that the Summer Bulbs are delightful almost everywhere. It
is no wonder they are becoming so popular in all parts of the civilized world. The Gladio-
lus takes rank at the very head of the list and the Dahlia is gaining more than its old popularity.
The tender bulbs are so certain in their growth that disappointment is hardly possible, and so
easily cared for that no one can complain of the trouble. Summer Bulbs should not be planted
until frost is over in the spring, and in the autumn must be taken up before hard frosts.
They are easily preserved in any place free from frost during the winter. These remarks, and
the instructions throughout this chapter, refer to the places where severe frosts occur. In sections
where there is little or no frost these tender Bulbs, of course, are perfectly hardy. We cannot
give directions for every locality, and our readers must use a little judgment in the matter.
Protect the bulbs from frost, and give them the benefit of spring and early summer growth.

GLADIOLUS.

The Gladiolus is the most beautiful of our Summer Bulbs, with tall spikes of flowers, some
two feet or more in height, and often several spikes from the
same bulb. The flowers are of almost every desirable color
— brilliant scarlet, crimson, creamy white, striped, blotched
and spotted in the most curious and interesting manner. Per-
haps we have no flower that presents such a gorgeous display
of delicate yet brilliant colors in the garden, or on the exhibi-
tion tables, or for extensive floral decorations, as the Gladio-
lus. For many years the French have been the most skillful
propagators of this flower, and every season introduced many
very beautiful new varieties, grown, of course, from seed,
which the rest of the world have been very glad to purchase
at extravagant prices—five dollars or more each. There is no
country in the world, we think, where the Gladiolus thrives as
it does in America — it is subject here to no disease, which is
not the case in Europe —and to plant a bulb is to insure a
good spike of flowers. It is not strange, therefore, that the
Gladiolus is becoming exceedingly popular, and receiving
especial attention from florists. In our own grounds we cul-
tivate from five to ten acres of the best named varieties, and
several acres of seedlings. Among these seedlings are annu-
ally produced some very choice flowers, while the average is
very good, quite as fine as ninety per cent. of the best named
sorts. The bulb, as it is commonly called, is really a corm,
and from this grows the erect stem, terminating in a spike of flowers. The culture is very

109

simple. Set the bulbs from six to nine inches apart and cover about four inches. If set in rows
they may be six inches apart in
the rows, and the rows one foot
apart. The planting may be done
at different times from the middle
of April to the first of June, to
secure a long succession of bloom.
Keep the earth mellow, and place
a neat stake to support the spikes
in storms. I have never known a
a case where the Gladiolus failed
’ to give the most perfect satisfaction,
opening a new field of beauty to
those unacquainted with its merits.
In the fall, take up the bulbs, let
them dry in the air for a few days,
then cut off the tops and store the
bulbs out of the way of frost, for
next season’s planting. Look at
them occasionally. If kept in a
place too moist, they will show
signs of moisture and perhaps mil-
dew. If this appears, remove
them to a drier position. If the

Ls DS iene ‘RANE
getting too dry; but they do not usually suffer from a dry atmosphere. To prevent disappoint-
ment, I would say, I know of no Gladiolus of a bright yellow color, and none of spotless white.
Our engravings show two plants in flower, of somewhat different habit; also, a bulb or corm, and
a single flower, the two latter about natural size.

DAHLIAS.

The Dahlia, some twenty or more years ago, was altogether the most popular florist’s flower,
and Dahlia exhibitions the most noted horticultural contests. The Dahlia for a time lost part
of its eclat, but is now not only regaining its lost
ground, but bids fair to exceed even its former
position in public estimation. We are not sur-
prised at this, for when we look upon a well-
formed Dahlia, we are compelled to acknowl-
edge that it is a wonder of beauty and perfec-
tion. The Dahlia, when first discovered in
Mexico, about 1784, and named after Dr. DAHL,
a pupil of Linnzeus, was a single flower, and its
improvement was accomplished by the patience
and skill of European florists. It was first culti-
vated for its tubers, which were thought to be eat-
able. It was not until 1814 that it began to
excite the attention of florists, and the improve-
ment of the Dahlia has been constant to the pres-
ent time; for though florists thought this flower
had attained the highest point of beauty many
years since, every year seedlings are produced
and named which are considered as surpassing
their predecessors in some point of excellence.
We exhibited seedlings of our own growing in 1874, which such excellent judges as Isaac
BuCHANAN and C. L. ALLEN pronounced superior to any they had before seen. The flower
shown is about one-half the size of a large Dahlia, though they differ very much in this respect,

110

S By

a ope PO RA

some varieties always producing large and others small flowers, the small or medium being

usually the most perfect, and the largest often somewhat coarse.

as:
a> we
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Soo cop
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NUS eR L/ Pres
i gO" (_— SINS
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SHOW DAHLIA.

form the plants.

Purchasers of Dahlias usually
obtain the tubers for planting, because they
are more safely transported than plants, and
the appearance of these tubers will be seen by
the little engraving of the Dahlia root.
are found at the neck of the tubers and these
Put the tubers in the ground
when the season becomes warm, covering the
neck some three inches.
thin them out.

Buds

If many shoots start,
There is no necessity for plant-
ing the Dahlia early, as it is an autumn flower,
and seldom gives good blossoms until the
nights are somewhat cool.
and before hard frosts, take up the bulbs, dry
them a little, remove the tops, and store in
the cellar until spring, when they can be
divided and re-planted. The size of the tuber
has no influence on the strength of the plant or
the beauty of the flower; all the tuber is needed
for is to sustain the young shoot until it can |
take root and obtain its own support. Florists

After flowering,

usually place the tubers in a hot-bed early in the spring, and as fast as the young shoots get a few

inches of growth, take them off and pot them,
when, everything being favorable, each one will
root and make a good plant. They are often sold
in this way, especially new and scarce varieties.
The tall growing plants require staking, if grow-
ing in exposed situations, or they are often broken
by the wind. The Dahlia is divided into three
pretty distinct classes, the first being the largest
and most important, as follows: Show Dahlia,

se eeis 3
growing from three to four feet in height, and aye wa
embracing all our finest sorts, fit for exhibiting at 7

horticultural shows, from which the name is
derived; the flowers ranging in size from two
and a half to four
inches in diameter.
The Dwarf or Bed-
ding Dahlia grows

Wises

compact
in height.

Dahlias, feel

and

small flowers.

the size of Show Dahlias.

because they are of the ordinary
_ size, not knowing that it is the plant,
== and not the flower that is dwarfed,
and that only the Pompon gives the
The striped and

NS
“

sas Z
we4

DWARF DAHLIA.

about eighteen inches in height, and makes

disappointed

DAHLIA ROOT.

a thick, compact bush, and covers a good deal of surface. Flowers of
They are therefore very desirable for bed-
ding and massing. The Pompon.or Bouquet Dahlia makes a pretty,
plant, about three feet

mottled and spotted flowers belonging to the Show section are called Fancy, and though not as
rich and usually as highly prized as the selfs, or those of one color, are very attractive.

111

CANNA.

The Canna is a fine foliage plant, making a good bed alone, but particularly desirable as the
center of a group of foliage plants, of which it is one of the very best.

y Growing from four to six feet. The leaves are sometimes two feet in
length, of a beautiful green, some varieties tinted with red. The flowers
are on spikes, pretty, but not conspicuous. Roots can be taken up in
the autumn and placed in the cellar. They flourish and are vigorous in the
dryest and hottest weather. A bed of
Cannas presents a very beautiful tropical
appearance that is exceedingly pleasant,
\ contrasting delightfully with the ordinary

aw foliage of the garden. In the West
As Indies a superior kind of arrowroot is =
i | made from the fleshy underground stems ; 2 = GELS
See the tubers of some species are eaten as a —~=S=s SCA
= = “vegetable. The’ seeds are large,s round Se
and black, which gives its common name, Indian Shot. The Canna and the pigirine we

consider the two best foliage plants known for ordinary use in this country. A good bed of
Cannas, and another of Ricinus, will almost make one dream he is luxuriating in the tropics.

CALADIUM ESCULENTUM.

The Caladium is one of the handsomest of the ornamental-leaved plants. The leaves are
often more than a foot in length, nearly as much in breadth,
and of a beautiful green, somewhat variegated or mottled.
Roots obtained in the spring will make a good growth in the
summer, and in the fall should be taken up and stored in the
\ cellar, like Dahlias. The Caladium delights in heat and
<=) moisture, and in localities pretty well North it is well to start
the root stalks, or rhizomes, which the fleshy bulb-like root is
called, in the house a few weeks before b
it is time to plant in the garden, as in
this way a larger and earlier growth is
obtained. The Caladium is a native of
very warm countries, such as the Sand- ~
wich Islands and the West Indies, and as
the roots abound in starch, they are eaten
by the natives, after being deprived of their acrid properties by some process of cookery, or
perhaps filtering, in some such manner as the Indians of California remove the tannin and
bitter taste from the acorns, which they do by washing and filtering through the sand.

CALLA.

This is the well-known Egyptian Lily, or Lily of the Nile. Its large white flowers are indis-
pensable in the winter, its foliage is broad and good, and it will pros-
per under very adverse circumstances, if water
is provided in abundance. It is also an excel-
lent plant for aquariums — none better, either
placed in the center bedded in a little earth and
» sand, which may be covered with stones, or
chica in a pot which can be placed in the
aquarium, and so covered with pieces of rock
as to be entirely concealed. In the spring,
the plant may be set in the garden, where
it can remain until autumn, when it should be repotted for winter flowering. It will not appear
to advantage in the garden, nor is it designed to do so, the object being to place it where it will
be no trouble and at the same time gain strength for winter blooming. In California the Calla
makes a wonderful growth, and is perfectly hardy, as, of course, it is in the South.

112

TUBEROSE.

The Tuberose is a beautiful, pure white, wax-like, very sweet-scented, double flower, growing
tall stems three feet in height, each stem bearing a dozen or more flowers. The engravings

ii i

transplant to the garden. Those who want this beautiful flower in the
early winter can plant a few bulbs in pots in July or August, sink them
to the rim in earth in the garden, where they can remain until the cool
nights of autumn, to be then removed to the house. Those who
are favored with warm and long summers, need only plant the tubers in
the garden as soon as the weather is warm. The Tuberose flowers but
once; but the old tuber forms many small ones, and these, after one

show a plant, much reduced in size but giving
a very good idea of its appearance when in
blossom; a flower, and also a tuber, both of
natural size. The Tuberose, being a native
of the East Indies, delights in great heat, and
where summers are short and not very warm,
does not always flower before frost destroys
the plant. In such latitudes, obtain tubers
early and plant them |
in boxes of earth,
and place these
boxes in the hottest
place in the house,
watering very little,
where they can re-
main until the atmo-
sphere and soil is
quite warm. Then

year’s growth, under favorable circumstances, make flowering bulbs. A dwarf variety, called
Pearl, has a shorter flower-stem, usually about eighteen inches. Those who preserve tubers over
winter for flowers the next summer, must keep them in a warm room, or the flower stem will rot,

and the tubers never flower.

MADEIRA VINE.

The Madeira Vine is a beautiful climber, with thick, glossy, light green, almost transparent
leaves, and climbing to almost any remarkable height, and twining in any desired form. Then

SS
aS

g a We Tin,

WS
<§

Za NOS
Fa, aN wes

it is as useful as beautiful, because it will bear almost any kind of merciless
treatment, without saying a word.
and it commences to grow at once, and if in a warm, sheltered place, very rapidly,
until its slender branches, covered with pretty leaves, have climbed nearly a
score of feet over pillar or porch; and then towards autumn, as though grateful
for a chance to live and grow, it sends forth its racemes of little, delicate, white
flowers, as sweet almost as Mignonette. In the autumn, cut off the tops, dig up:
the tubers, and throw them into a cellar, where
they will keep sounder and safer than potatoes ;
y or, take up the bulbs carefully, pot them, remove

Plant the tuber out of doors in the spring,

dust and smoke of the worst living room imagin-
able, with perhaps only a pitiful look of remon-
EY SKY strance from their sensitive leaves, while any-
=a thing like decent usage will cause a smile of
See satisfaction, from the root to tiniest leaflet.
(The Madeira Vine is excellent for baskets and

3 ys afin ee vases, furnishing a large amount of pretty, grace-

ful foliage. For screens for windows and other

in-door work it is equaled by no climber, except, perhaps, the Ivy, which is almost a salamander.

118

Pain

c ac Z b v

eI Gan ore nee we,

TIGRIDIA.

The Tigridia, or Mexican Tiger Flower, is one of the most curious and beautiful flowers that
this earth produces. TT. Pavonia is of the richest scarlet, with a center of golden yellow spotted
with black. TT. conchiflora, orange, variegated with yel-
low and spotted with black. The flowers are from three
¢ to four inches in diameter, and, though short-lived, are pro-
duced in succession during the whole season, so that a
little bed is never without flowers. The blossoms appear
very early in the morning, and in dull weather will be
bright nearly all day, but a few hours of sunshine destroy
their beauty. The next morning, however, a new lot
appear, and the bed is gayas ever. The flower stems are
from twelve to eighteen inches in height, the bulbs are
small. Plant about the middle of May in this latitude,
and take them up in October, dry for a few days in the
air, and then pack them away in dry sand or sawdust in
any room free from frost, and out of the reach of mice and

rats, as these animals consider them a great luxury.

AMARYLLIS VALOTTA PURPUREA.

This is becoming a very popular plant for summer blooming, and for a pot-plant for the dec-
oration of porches, piazzas, etc., there is nothing prettier. It throws
up a strong ower-stem, in August, about eighteen inches in height, bear-
ing from fou. to eight brilliant, purplish scarlet flowers, two to three
inches in diameter, and as these flowers open in succession, the plant
continues in blossom a long time, and therefore makes a very durable as
well as beautiful ornament. It flowers most surely and freely in a small
pot; indeed, a pot a little more than sufficient to hold the bulb is -Il
that is necessary, and this is an advantage, because any of the little orna-
mental pots may be employed for this bulb, and they are charmingly in
keeping with the neat habit of the plant, and the honorable position it is
destined to occupy on the entrance porch, or the verandah in front of the
parlor windows. Bulbs may be potted any time in the spring, or even as
late as June. After flowering, the bulb may remain in the pot until the
following spring, and should be kept pretty cool and not over moist. In
May next the bulb will probably need more room, and should be re-pot- =
ted for flowering. Ina year or two a number of bulbs will form, giving several flower stems,

ERYTHRINA CRISTA-GALLI.
The Erythrina is a fine, robust plant, with broad leaves and large red flowers, somewhat pea-
formed, an inch or so in length, and growing in long racemes, some-
times ten or twelve inches in length. There is great substance in the
flower, giving it a leathery appearance. ‘The roots are thick and fleshy,
but not exactly tuberous, and may be kept in a pit or cellar during the
winter. Plants put out in the spring will flower du-
ring the summer, and before hard frosts should be
taken up, the main branches cut back to within four
or five inches of the root, and then stowed away in
winter quarters until spring. It is a very fine plant,
and those who have never grown it will derive a good _
deal of pleasure from its culture. It isa native of —
Brazil, and in the more Southern States and Pacific
coast would prove hardy. In giving direction for cul-
= ture we are apt to furnish those suited to our latitude,
forgetting the great extent and diversified climate of our country, though we have endeavored to
be particular on this point. Readers, however, are always ready to take advantage of any

climatic favors that will save trouble.

114

to dh|
SCE
ax 7 st SS
S _ oN AMOS
A Frm ” aT TOE

TRITOMA.

The Tritoma uvaria is a stately, vigorous plant, sending up its strong flower stems four or five
feet in height, surmounted by a spike of curious red and orange, pendant flowers, a foot in length,
very striking, and by

its supposed resem-
blance to that domestic
implement, generally
known as the Red Hot
Poker. The Tritoma
flowers late in the sum-
mer, usually commenc-
pap A 7 ing in August in this
cil DAW ham \ IY NY Filw Ae latitude, and continu-
bo Jha ini : WAM VA Y ing until winter, and is
admirably adapted for
forming large beds or
groups, the numerous
flame-colored racemes
forming a stately ob-
jeet. The; lritoma, in
this climate, is almost
hardy, but not quite.
Some winters it suffers
little. It may be win-
tered in a pit or cool
cellar. The Tritoma

THE BULBOUS BEGONIAS.

All our readers are acquainted with the Begonia family, so deservedly popular, rendered so
by the elegantly marked and colored foliage, which characterize so many of its members. Within
a few years a new class has been introduced to the floricultural world, called Mew Lzlbous or
Tuberous Begonias. These new Begonias may be treated like Dahlias or Gladioli, the bulbs
being planted in the spring in the open
ground, producing fine plants and flower-
ing freely until autumn. ‘The plants are
from a foot to eighteen inches in height,
quite branching, and always in flower.
They bear the sun without injury. In
Northern climates it is well to pot the
bulbs so as to give them a good start be-
fore setting out. Indeed, this would be
4 good practice anywhere. ‘The bulb ap-
=. pears as shown in the engraving, and is
some two in-
ches across.
The large en-
graving shows"
the appear-
ANGE!) Olena.
= strong plant.
As we have had these new Begonias in our grounds several years, we can say they are quite
promising, and we would not be surprised if they should in a few years be greatly in demand for
bedding. We would advise our friends to obtain at least a few bulbs for trial. There is great
pleasure in growing new things, if successful.

115

wee WE 4
Nee EEL
V2 see Xe Brrr d PEO
aed AN i \ S

MTS A
ST PR TTL rd

BORDER PLANTS.

THRIFT.

Almost every day some one inquires what is best for a low edging for flower beds. Fora
summer edging, or course, almost any low-growing, compact plant will answer — anything either
pretty in foliage or flowers. What is generally desired,

however, is a permanent border; and plants adapted for
this purpose, and for Northern latitues, are by no means.
abundant. While thinking of this subject, so frequently
@ brought to our notice, we remembered an old-fashioned
/ plant we had often seen in England, as a substitute for box,
‘the Armeria vulgaris, or Thrift, but most commonly
called, we believe, Sea Pink. The plant grows only
about six inches in height, and is composed of a mass of
narrow, short, grass-like leaves. From this mass of foliage
wiry stems are thrown upwards from four to six inches in

Wed

height, and these bear clusters of pink flowers. It blooms pretty freely through the whole
summer, and bears our severe winters without the least injury. We may as well add that it
makes an admirable house plant in the winter, as will be seen by the engraving, which was taken
from a plant in our possession. It increases rapidly, and plants can be had for a dollar a dozen.

OXALIS

One of the prettiest tender things we are acquainted with for borders or edgings of beds and
walks, is the OXALIS LASIANDRA. It formsa fine rounded edging a foot or so in height, and
('( _7-5 about the same in breadth. The leaves are
( (G- ii: Bia eRe!
NE sions, as shown
in the engrav-
ing, the flower-
stems standing
well up above
the foliage, of
<a ==a bright, pur-
plish pink, and of the size seen in the illustration. The flowers open in sunny weather, and
close in the evening. The bulbs are small, and should be planted fiom one to two inches

apart. Every little bulb will make a good strong plant.
For the two past seasons we have been using another Oxalis for a summer border, and with
results quite as satisfactory, though somewhat different. This is OXALIS Deppit, and if there is

leaves are so abundant as to form a globular
border, as shown in the little engraving. The
form of the leaf we have also endeavored to

illustrate. For some reason this Oxalis bears wey
few flowers when used for a border, which we ===
think quite as well, as the foliage, unbroken, is quite handsome enough. Take up the bulbs
of both varieties in the autumn and store them away from frost until time for spring planting.

116

WOQULEIED OW
Le NPV WUE IS YE se

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ii i
Spek |Z
WW dy

ET IIE PIG aN es

HARDY PLANTS, BULBS, &c.

Hardy Bulbs are those that, like the Lilies, endure the winter in the garden without injury,
and when once planted wiil continue to grow and increase for a number of years. ‘They are, and
always will continue, popular, on account of their great beauty, and because they require so little
labor. The work of planting once well done is over for a life time. There is no taking up and
storing and re-planting — no danger of loss from frost, or rotting from improper storing. Occa
sionally, when the increase has been so great that the plants crowd each other, they can be taken
up, divided and re-planted, and if the increase has been too great for the space desired to be
appropriated to them, flower-loving neighbors will be glad of the surplus. No plant, or class of
plants, however, possess all good qualities, and those in this department do not generally keep in
flower a long time, like some of our best annuals and tender bedding plants.

ANEMONE JAPONICA ALBA.

Anemone Japonica alba is the best hardy, white blooming, autumn flowering plant we have.
The Anemone, during the summer, is a plain looking
plant, with dark green foliage, one that would attract
no attention; but in the latter part of summer flower
... stems begin to appear, and when some eighteen inches
in height the white flowers commence to open; and if the
nights are rather cool and dewy, the advancement of the
plant to perfection is rapid. It soon bears from a score
to a hundred of its clear white flowers, and is an object
to delight every lover of flowers, especially as it con-
tinues to improve until destroyed by frost, thus giving a
mass of white blooms when every other white flower is
&— gone, except the Ten-Weeks Stock, Candytuft and
Nee= Alyssum. The flowers are more than an inch in diam-
V eter. The plant is perfectly hardy every where, we
judge, never having lost one, and increases so rapidly that a small plant soon makes a conspic-
uous clump. Although perhaps not to be recommended for cutting, as it does not carry very well,
for large floral decorations it is quite valuable.

DAY LILY.

The pretty Funkia, commonly called Day Lily, we believe, because one of its beautiful
flowers opens every day, is truly a very desirable autumn ~
flower that every one should possess, and everybody will be
pleased with. The
plant has light,
== pbroad foliage, pret-
7 tily veined. The
buds form in a
cluster on a stem
six inches or more
in length, as shown
in the engraving,
but usually only
one opens each
day. The flowers
are of the purest

ZS NIN | zs
A GE i Wal
ble 4) . S
Y ! y \

——— NEY bof
a Y i Yp
Eb ake

LE white imaginable, EEE

trumpet -shaped,
about five inches in length. The blue variety, shown in the engraving at right of page, has
smaller flowers, but larger clusters, makes a taller growth, and though not so pretty nor so popu-
lar as the white, is a meritorious autumn flowering plant.

Leys

SA zee
W feo A fe.
Samra Ne ==)) f)
ie y TER Sa

"ne
r Dry, S WV,
oe tr a»
2s ie Or. as tN (

W2 Bae?

LILIES.

THE LILY is loved in every land. It is the queen of flowers, and only the Rose can dispute
its regal honors. We find it in the humid vale, the arid desert, and on the lofty mountain top.
With few exceptions, Lilies succeed in our gardens admirably, are subject to no diseases, and
continue to increase in strength and beauty for many years. From six to a dozen of the best
varieties will give a good collection, better far than is seen even in most of our best gardens.
The past twenty years has added to our garden Lilies the best we now possess, such as Lamcz-
folium, of several varieties, Auratum, Wash-
ingtonianum, Bloomerianum, &c. Some of the
newer varieties have been affected with a strange
disease, or perhaps did not take kindly to our
climate and soil, or may have been seriously
injured by a long journey. Whatever may have
been the cause, the Auratum certainly was not
reliable for a number of years
after its introduction. Some, hav:
ing every appearance of sound-
ness, when planted would make
a vigorous start, and then, with-
out apparent cause, perhaps as
the buds were about to open,
show signs of disease, the leaves
drooping, and an examination
showing a decaying bulb. Oth-
ers would flower beautifully the
: === first season, and decay the sec-

Ee Oa ond or even the third. We
have lost thousands of Auratum bulbs in this way. We have now mature, good sized bulbs,
raised in our grounds — beds of many thousands, with the foliage very much improved, and very
little, if any, sign of disease. The Auratum is so grand that we must have it, though we occa-
sionally lose a bulb or two; and as we now grow them with every appearance of sound.
ness, the difficulty, whatever its cause, we hope is entirely overcome.

The California Lilies we have not before dared to describe, although we have cultivated them
several years, because sometimes we have received several species under one name, and at other
times, what seemed to be one variety, with a good many more names than it was entitled to.
Our management, also, seemed to be defective, so we visited California to see the Lilies and
consult with her most conscientious florists and most experienced botanists. We think we now
understand the characteristics of the California Lilies, and their habits, so that we can describe
them understandingly; but the most important lesson we learned was the necessity of deep plant-
ing. We are quite certain we dug Lily bulbs in California fully eighteen inches below the sur-
face, and are satisfied that much of our losses
with the Auratum and the Pacific Lilies was
the result of shallow planting, though we are
well aware that this was not the entire cause.
We would advise all who plant the Auratum,
or any of the California Lilies, to set them
deep. Indeed, all Lilies require deep planting.

The collection of Lilies is now so large
and so good that no lover of flowers can
afford to ignore this interesting and elegant
family, and no garden can be considered
complete without a good collection. We
will describe a few of the best.

Lilium lancifolium. Among the many truly valuable flowers that have been introduced into
this country and Europe from Japan and China, during the past twenty years, we know of
118

LILIUM CHALCEDONICUM.

none that excel the beautiful, delicate, yet brilliant Japan Lilies— Lelimm lancifolium. In
addition to their beauty, these Lilies are exceedingly fragrant and as hardy as any of our common
varieties. Strong bulbs send up
flowering stems from three to
four or five feet in height, and
begin to bloom about the middle
of summer. Each flowering stem
will have from two to a dozen
flowers, according to strength of
bulb. No description can do
anything like justice to these flow-
ers, or show the beautiful frost-
like white of the surface, glisten-
ing like diamonds, or the rubies
that stand out on the surface,
L. Chalcedo-
en nicum iS one.
Vv of the Marta-
” gon or Turk’s
Cap Lilies, be-
ing much re-
flexed, as can
be seen in the
engraving.
The flower is
small, about
the size of our
LILIUM AURATUM. common Can-
adense, but it is the most brilliant flower of the family —a scarlet so bright that no painting can
do it justice, as it is impossible to procure a color sufficiently intense. We have endeavored to
portray this Lily in our Chromo B, where it will be found quite correct, except in coloring. The
Chalcedonicum is a native of Palestine, and is, no doubt, the flower referred to by our SAVIOR as
the Lily of the field arrayed in glory far exceeding even the glcry of Israel’s most voluptuous
monarch. In addition to the brilliant color, the flower has the appearance of being freshly var-
nished. Plant pretty deep, and it is well to give a little mulching the first summer. A few
flowers only will be given the first season, if any, but the improvement will be marked and sat-
isfactory every season. ENE
L. auratum is the great Lily
of Japan, often called Golden-
Banded Lily. This is the King
of Lilies. The flower is from
tentotwelve y&
inches in di- “¥%
ameter,com- “&
posed of six
very delicate
white ivory
parts, each
being thick-
ly studded
with spots of
crimson, and
having a
golden band through its center. As the bulbs acquire age and strength, the flowers attain a very
large size, and upward of a dozen are produced on a single stem. As before observed, I find

Auratums grown on my own grounds are fine and healthy, showing every sign of strength and
di bc,

SS == << Z,

———— Z 4

i\ = ZS .
SS Sa SX \ \’

LILIUM JAPONICUM LONGIFLORUM.

SESSA 5 Bay
ree eRe SY

LP, ER NES Z S\ SEI LEN
Ul NN Z> ™™ “Rreee
TEL fee oO NA WON A

vigor. Plant in as dry a place as possible, and at least six inches in depth. The bulbs should
remain in the ground several years without removal, if possible. If good bulbs are planted, they
will generally bloom the first summer, and continue
to improve every year.

Faponicum longiflorum is trumpet-shaped, four
inches or more in length, and of

pearly whiteness. It is perfectly
hardy and healthy. The plant sel-
dom exceeds eighteen inches in
height. Bulbs small. It is des-
tined to become a universal favor-
ite. The Longiflorum bears forc-
ing well, and therefore can be
grown in the house where it will
invariably give perfect satisfaction.
Indeed it is one of those beautiful
and useful flowers that we cannot
LILIUM CANDIDUM. praise too highly. There are two
Lilies very similar, though larger and somewhat scarce. Eximium has flowers about an inch or
two longer, and the plant is somewhat taller. Takesima produces flowers about the same size as
Eximium, but the plant is quite distinct, the flower stalk being purplish.

Lilium candidum is our common white Lily, and we have none more beautiful. It is hardy
everywhere, and constantly improves, throwing out new bulbs, so that after a few years a clump is
formed several feet in diameter and from four to five feet in height, giving a perfect mass of beau-
tiful, white, fragrant blossoms. For floral decorations no flower excels this beautiful white Lily,
and we advise everybody to grow a clump of these flowers in some corner of the garden, espe-
cially for cutting for decorative purposes. Was this Lily newly discovered it would be very much
prized, and every one would desire to possess it, regardless of cost, but being old it is too much
neglected. For this reason we urge upon our readers the claims of one of our oldest and best friends.

L. speciosum album, by some florists called Preecox, is a new white Lily from Japan, of the
Lancifolium style, and is far superior in purity of color, size of flower and vigor of plant, to the
old Lancifolium album. In habit, the plant is as robust as Rubrum, but shorter, the flowers

are as large, but more reflexed, while they are of the
\ \\ y ’ :
Rs es
\\ f Yj

purest white, the flower stem and band in center of petals
being pea-green. Leaves and stems a very light, almost
transparent green. We have had this variety in cultiva-
tion several years, but our stock was so small that we ==
could not offer it for sale until recently.

L. excelsum is a very delicate flower, being creamy or
light buff, and exceedingly fragrant.
The plant is vigorous, blooms abun-
dantly, and is one of the tallest of the
family. This is the only true buff Lily
we know of, and it is a real beauty, a
strong bulb throwing up a stem more
than four feet in height, and bearing a
score or more of flowers, of a creamy
buff, almost salmon, reflexed, and
about three inches in diameter.

L. Washingtonianum is one of the
best of the California and Oregon = =a |
Lilies, pure waxy white, glossy a5 SSS
though freshly varnished, and spotted Bip art hee! eee
with fine purple spots. The flowers, though perfectly white when they open, change to pink,
becoming darker each day, so that flowers are seen on the same plant of every shade from white

120

Ways F
PESO) = ‘ KGe/ dy
ong aN fees eS), i ge
cee Sake G Wis “ Ji Dp in =e ai FBS Shy
OMT, = CO ———— ih WT
ada ws COR at ee NO Asn 2) WUT de

to deep purplish pink. We have this Lily in flower, growing from four to five feet in height,
and bearing over twenty flowers each. Flowers two inches in length and the same in breadth.
The engravings show a flower just opened, and also the
habit of the plant, both, as in all our Lily engravings,
much reduced. Having spent the summer of 1874 in
California, mainly for the purpose of examining the Lilies
\ of the country, and learning all we could of their habits
and true names, we feel prepared to offer
the Lilies of the Pacific coast to our cus-
tomers with confidence. The Washing-
tonianum we have flowered for a number
of years, and we think our bulbs are
sound and healthy, though we would say
to all to whom money is an object, and
failure would prove a disappointment,
procure but one or two of these new Cali-
fornia Lilies, just for trial. If they suc-
ceed you will be delighted, and if any fail
the loss will not be serious. Set the
bulbs down not less than six inches.

The Bldmerianum, or Humboldtit, is a
pretty yellowish Lily, with large brown spots, a native of California, and which we found grow-
ing mostly in shady places and near the banks of running streams. It is a very desirable Lily.
About four feet in height. It was named Bloomerianum after a worthy Botanist of California,
our late friend BLOOMER, by that enterprising and @<
whole-souled collector, Dr. KELLOGG, with whom
we have spent many pleasant hours; but by some it
is thought to have been previously discovered by
ROEZL, and named in honor of Baron HUMBOLDT.
Plant this and all California Lilies deep, certainly
not less than six inches, and we think this variety
might well be grown in partial shade. A good
mulching the first season after planting is very desir-
able, not only for this variety, but for all the Lilies. =
We are apt to think because a plant is a native of a
warm, dry country, that it can endure any amount
of heat, but we often find that such plants, in a natural state, grow in shady nooks and ravines
and on mountain sides, constantly watered by cool springs.

The Pardalinum is a California Lily, very much like our Canadense and Superbum, but
of clearer yellow and brighter red. _‘It is a very good small Lily,
growing in large clusters, and very handsome. The lower half of
each petal is yellow, spotted with brown, the upper half red, almost
>> crimson, giving the flower a very marked appearance. The foliage
is lanceolate, that is, very narrow lance-shaped leaves, and we have
never seen a plant or bulb, or even leaf, that was not
entirely healthful.

Lilium parvum is asmall California Lily, and
one of the prettiest very small varieties we are ac-
quainted with. The engraving at the left shows the
size of the flower, which is dark yellow, ornamented
with small reddish dots. The small engraving will
give something of an idea of the habit of the plant.
_ It does not usually exceed eighteen inches in height.

LILIUM PARVUM—FLOWER. It seems to be perfectly healthy, and we do not re-
member having seen one sickly plant in a bed of several thousands.

121

LILIUM HUMBOLDTII.

LILIUM PARDALINUM.

fy
ny IY!

yo W

Although we have had most of the new California Lilies on trial for a number of years,
we have been rather slow in introducing them to the notice of our readers, for reasons previ-
ously stated. There is great pleasure in testing comparatively untried plants and bulbs, some-

~ call special attention.

LILIUM THUNBERGIANUM. PLANTS.

what the same kind of feeling we experience in travel-
ing a new road or visiting a strange country. We would
deprive no one of this pleasurable excitement, yet we
cannot forget the fact that many of our friends have but
little money with which to indulge their love for the
beautiful, and we feel exceedingly anxious that this little
should be invested to the best possible advantage.

To three Lilies that are favorites with us we wish to
They are Thunbergianum atrosan-

guineum grandifiorum, Thun-
bergianum atrosanguineum ful-
gens and Thunbergianum citri-
nun. They are all grand
flowers, bearing immense num-
bers of blossoms, continuing a
good season in bloom, healthy
and vigorous, and iticrease rapid-
ly in numbers; certainly an array
of good qualities that should
recommend them to general cul-
ture, and yet they are not seen in
our gardens.

Thunbergianum atrosanguineum grandiflorum is a very robust plant, growing only about
thirty inches in height. The leaves are narrow, dark in color, thickly set, and no Lily we are

acquainted with makes a more vigorous, healthy growth.

The flowers are about four inches

across, and are borne in immense clusters. The one from which our little engraving was taken
had twenty open flowers and as many buds. The color is a very deep red—the darkest of all

the red Lilies.

Thunbergianum atrosanguineum fulgens
is like the preceding in habit, a few inches
shorter, the clusters of flowers not quite so
large, while the color is a curious mottling
or different shades of red.

Thunbergianum citrinum
grows only about eighteen
inches in height. The flowers
are generally larger than either
of the two preceding varieties,
and the color we hardly know
how to describe. It is some-
thing between a cream and
salmon, and one of the best
of the light colored Lilies.
The engravings of the plants
show the comparative differ- *
ence in height between the PLANT.

TIGER LILY.

Citrinum and Atrosanguineum. The flower shows the form of both, but much reduced in size.
Our last engraving shows the old Tiger Lily, that everybody knows. It is still as good as
some of the varieties we have tried, and which are claimed to be improvements upon this old

fashioned flower.

Our native Canadense or superbum is a goodly Lily, improves by cultivation, and deserves

an honorable place in every collection of Lilies.

122

2K hig
awe

: oO N

Sra OS) ae mae

Be
‘Ui FeTTo eee

CHINESE PAZONIES.

The Chinese Pzeonies are so valuable on account of their large size, beautiful coloring and
delightful fragrance, and so entirely hardy and vigorous, that I am anxious all my customers
should have at least a White anda
Pink Peony. Fragrans is one of
the best Pink varieties, but there
are few exhibitions that present such
a wonderful combination of colors
as a bed of Pzeonies. The Pzeonies
are perfectly hardy, never suffering
injury by cold, and will succeed in
any ground, unless so wet that the
water will lay on the surface in the
= winter and spring. They may be

R planted either in the autumn or
Aa TM |) Me OD i S\N spring, and are transported with
» i FE ii | YY greater safety than almost any
plant — not one in a hundred fail-
ing. They are also easily increased
by division of the roots. A little
extra attention in the way of ma-
nure will induce a vigorous and
rapid growth. We do not know of
anything that injures the Pzeony
| except starving in a poor soil and
BOY BLOWER: standing water during the cold sea-
son. For large floral decorations few of our flowers can surpass the Pzeonies. They seem
without anything cheap or gaudy in their appearance. The large
engraving shows a flower about
one-half natural size, though it
must be understood there is a
z good deal of difference in the
<<< formation of flowers of different
Wge varieties. The small cuts give a
RNS pretty good idea of the form and
habit of both plant and roots, the
drawings being taken irom a full
grown and vigorous plant the
PHONY PLANT. second season after planting. EONS GROOT:
Such a growth must not be expected the first season, nor should flowers be looked for or desired.
Secure first a good strong plant, and then flowers will come in abundance. Those who are so
impatient that they will plant only those things that flower the first season will never be very suc-
cessful florists. Time passes swiftly, and plants grow while we work and sleep and travel.

VIOLETS.

The little sweet Violet is a plant that we need not describe very particularly, for it has not
only made itself known, but universally
loved by its sweetness. A single flower
will perfume a bouquet, or a room, withits @
delightful aroma. It is also perfectly hardy a

OE
=

3 E \Ve WY eZ a
and flowers freely very early in the spring. —=\7 MN) Cay OS

IKE

: : aN ay
The color is blue, and our engraving shows —=33/3 iz
S|

pretty faithfully the habit of the plant and -—-s2==3(3>5

the size and appearance of the flower. Ee“

Plants may be set out either in the spring or autumn, and can be increased by division when they

attain a large size. The Violet flowers well in the house in winter if not kept too hot and dry.
123

PERENNIAL PHLOX.

Very few plants give such universal satisfaction as the Perennial Phloxes. In the first place
they are perfectly hardy, sa! will come out of any winter in good healthy condition without the
loss of a plant. Then we send them out with perfect confi-
dence that they will reach their destination in just as good con-

dition as they leave us. The flowers, when plants get strong,
/ are immense bunches of bloom, from the purest white to crim-
son. Plants will keep increasing in size, and may be divided.
at the roots every year or two. Half-a-dozen well established
plants, and of well selected colors, is a treasure for the garden
that every lover of flowers must appreciate. The Perennial
Phlox is one of those hardy, useful and beautiful flowers whose
culture we are anxious to increase, because the expense and
trouble is but little, and the result more than satisfactory. The
flower resembles that of the annual Phlox, but the clusters are
large, sometimes forming majestic heads of bloom. We have
= = endeavored to show the appearance of the plant when in bloom
_ in the little engraving, but we fear without much success. When in flower it is two feet or more
in height. Seed does not germinate very readily, unless sown as soon as fully ripe, or before.

DICENTRA SPECTABILIS.

There are several varieties of the Dicentra, natives of America, and very pretty pipalts one is
known commonly as Squirrel Corn, and another as Dutchman’s Breeches ; i

but the best of all is D. spectabilis, from Northern China, sometimes called
Bleeding Heart, from the heart-like form of the flower, and its beautiful
color. We well recollect the first time we saw this flower, soon after its
introduction from China, and that we then thought it
the most delicate and graceful flower we had ever seen.
It was then considered tender, and cultivated in conser-
vatories. It, however, soon proved its right to be
classed among our hardy plants, where it has held for
twenty years an honored position. The flowers are
heart-shaped, deep pink, a dozen or more being borne
ona graceful, drooping raceme, a foot or more in length.
The Dicentra is also excellent for flowering in the
house, and furnishes in winter very agreeable foliage, as NS
well as beautiful flowers, and both quite freely. Plants may be taken v up and potted in Mes autumn.

YY PLANES:

For a climbing plant in the garden to do duty as a screen for an old wall or building, or to
adorn either when new, we know of nothing in the world equal to
the Ivy—it is so connected in our minds with ruined castles and
brilliant poesy that it seems to throw an atmosphere of grace and
beauty around every object subject to its transforming and beauti-
fying influence. Unfortunatley it does not prove quite hardy in
Mizz some Northern sections of our country, when exposed on walls,
" not that it is injured by the cold, but by our warm winter sunshine.
On the North or West side of a building it usually does well, re-
ceiving less sun than in other exposures. Wherever the Ivy does
well we advise every one to grow a few; and as the best substitute.
we recommend our beautiful Virginia Creeper, which is much more
highly prized in Europe than in America. For in-door winter
decoration the Ivy is unequalled, as it can be trained in any de-
sired form, one style being shown in the engraving, and will bear
more hardships and bad usage than any plant we are acquainted
with. Strong roots with branches from one to five feet in length should be planted.
124

Wx Me
PEA AEN )
YUCCAS.
The Yuccas are a striking class of plants, with long, narrow, strong, sharp-pointed leaves,
and a peculiar tropical aspect. /%/amentosa is the hardiest, and we think will endure almost
any of our Northern winters. pa’)
It is called Adam’s Needle, Fe.
) because the leaves are Tipe
4 ANe sharply pointed and throw - S Yas
5) off from their edges numer- AS
Gene ous fine threads. It sends oa} ee,
q oe up a strong flower-stem in BAS
AWAY the middle of the summer, =O) Ne
1 ps bearing a large spike of _s cae \
\ whitish flowers. The Yucca pac Se
is an evergreen perennial Bo Oo
and delights in a rich soil. Fea
We usually throw over the UN Cs
plants a few evergreen Debir
‘ boughs or something of the \..
“sees kind, as a slight winter pro- Zits

tection. We call attention to this old plant with a good deal of
confidence, feeling assured that it will more than meet the expec-
tations of our readers. Our

"SQYWwoaiiG A SIEK :
NS ao = \\ engravings show the plant
Ff RR GQWY SEN My ee
qt", @ a wy co! in cs a and the tuberous
he . 25: root.

There are other varieties

) Tew
pi vs of Yucca well worthy of

Ly ) Vs y ASS
Oe Te | Se A “culture, but none so hardy
and desirable for a Northern climate as Filamentosa, which we
have figured. Yucca gloriosum superbum we have grown pretty well, and, of course, further

South this and the more tender varieties do well. It is at the North, however, where plants with
an oriental or tropical appearance are so scarce and delightful that the Yucca is most prized and
most needed. ‘For this reason we have said a good word in behalf of the Yucca, a favor we
have done before for the Ricinus and Canna, and for the same reason. It is surprising how
much real beauty we can get for very little labor, and at a trifling expense, by giving a little
attention to the habits of plants and their adaptation to circumstances. We once saw a circular
bed on a lawn filled with our common Maize, and thought it very beautiful, but it was ina
country where a field of Corn was never seen.

ASTILBE JAPONICA.

The Astilbe Faponica is a comparatively new plant, and as useful as it is elegant. The plant
is dwarfish, seldom more than two feet in height, with large
feathery trusses of very small whitish flowers, which will be
found exceedingly useful for all ornamental work, while the
whole plant, as will be seen by the engraving, is itself quite
elegant. There are few plants that the florist can force for
winter bloom that will make him a better return, while the
amateur will find it pleasant, both in form, foliage and flowers.
For forcing, the roots should be planted in a seven inch pot in
SH Ae Sle the autumn, and plunged out of doors till about the first of Jan-

1) #) ss uary, then bring them into the house, giving plenty of light and
| heat. The flowers are much larger and purer in color when
grown in the house than they are in the open ground, but it is a
ee ee good plant everywhere, and those who culivate it will thank us
for the good character we have given it.

125

by &
SSS \ Fp to
=) ‘ a Pads
Ep

ey Jt A, Ai,

ENS I Ri ae Gp

THE LILY OF THE VALLEY.

We propose now to introduce to the attention of our readers a sweet little flower admirably
adapted both for winter blooming and out-door culture,
and yet we seldom see this little favorite, even in large
collections. One reason of this, we suppose, is that its
management has not been generally understood. A
portion of the buds produce only leaves, and, of course,
if these are planted disappointment is the result. Florists
now keep for sale well matured buds, or pips, as now
called, the appearance of which we have shown in the
engraving. They can be purchased for sixty cents a
dozen, or rather, brought to your post-office for that price.
These may be planted from three to half a dozen in a
pot, according to its size. Keep them in a tolerably warm
place, never allowing them to suffer for water, and if
somewhat dark, just as well for a week ortwo. Then
bring them to the light. In about four or five weeks from
potting flowers will be produced. By placing a little
moss around the lower part of the pips, and then plant-
ing them, they can be grown in
boxes by the dozen, and then
removed to any fancy pots, or
baskets, or vases, where it is
desirable they should flower.
Indeed, they can be grown in
moss entirely, just as well as
in earth, as they make little or
no root before flowering, and,
of course, can be put into glasses
of ‘water, and, in’ fact, be
handled as they are about to
come into flower in almost any
way to suit the convenience of
the grower.

As the pips are not injured |
by frost, and are small, they can
be sent by mail with safety any
time during the winter, and by
procuring a dozen and making four plantings, two weeks apart, flowers can be secured during a
long season. Keep the pips in a cool, moist place until planted, covered with moss or saw-dust.
The engraving shows a pot with a little group of the Lily of the Valley in flower. The name
of the Lily of the Valley is Convallaria majals.

eS a
PLANTS INSTEAD OF SEEDS.

In addition to the plants already noticed, there are a few that we have described in
our list of plants to be grown from seed, that some people prefer to obtain in a more speedy way,
and therefore like to procure plants that will flower the first season. This is the case with the
GARDEN PINKS, CARNATIONS and PICOTEES. Good plants of either, set out in the spring, will
flower freely during the summer, and will also furnish layers for new plants. Plants of the
Daisy, also, can be obtained, either spring or autumn, and generally with flowers and buds,
for the Daisy gives its best flowers in fall and spring, and does not object to removal.
The HoLLyHock, too, many are so anxious to obtain that they prefer plants to seeds. In
the north, plant only in the spring. Almost every one prefers plants of that beautiful grass,
ERIANTHUS RAVENN#. That useful Climber, the PERENNIAL PEA, grows rapidly from strong roots.

126

All our readers have heard of HOLLAND, sometimes called Hardy Bulbs, but few would be
able to give a list entitled to the name, and we do not know that we could make a correct one.
These Holland Bulbs did not originate in that country, but the good Hollanders have almost
monopolized their culture for so many years, doubtless to their own profit and the good of the
world, that the name has been conceded, by general consent, to a class of Bulbs of which the
Hyacinth, Tulip and Crocus are the leading members. With few minor exceptions these Bulbs
require to be planted in the autumn, and are admirably adapted for winter culture in the house.
In many sections of our country the winters are long, unpleasant, and, of course, tedious. For
full half the year no flower, not even a green leaf, is found to cheer the long gloom. While all
is cold and sterile without, with a little care and skill, and at a trifling expense, we can make our
homes cheerful, have buds and blossoms and emerald leaves every day from November until
May, make our own little summers, and thus rob winter of half its tediousness. We shall

endeavor to show how this can be done.

THEIR CULTURE.

Those who desire a show of what is known as Holland Bulbs in the spring must sECURE
THE BULBS AND PLANT IN THE AUTUMN. ‘Thousands when they see
a fine display of Hyacinths and Tulips in the gardens of their neighbors,
in the early Spring, resolve
to have, at least, a few next
year; but the matter is for-
gotten until the Spring flow-
ers remind them of their
neglect. Any garden soil
will grow Bulbs well; but it
must be drained, so that water
will not lie on the surface for
any length of time, or the
Bulbs will be likely to rot.
After planting, and before
winter sets in, cover the beds
with a good dressing of
leaves — say five or six inches
in depth, or more. Over
these throw a little brush, or
M Hcl earth, or manure, to prevent

ee 2 blowing off. If the leaves
cannot be obtained readily,
coarse manure will answer.
In the spring, rake off the covering, taking off about half at first, and then waiting a week before
removing the remainder. Make beds so narrow that the weeds can be destroyed as they appear,
and without walking among the plants. Any breaking or wounding of the leaves causes
injury to the Bulb, but flowers can be cut at pleasure, and all should be removed as they fade.

127

FLOWERING BULBS IN WATER.

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By the exercise of a little taste a world of pleasure can be derived from the cultivation of
Bulbs in the house, as they can be used in almost innumerable ways. Hyacinths, Narcissus
and Crocuses may be grown in glasses of water, and our engravings show a few of the simpler
forms of glasses. Pot culture, for general use, however, is quite
as pretty, and a little more natural.
The Duc Van Thol Tulips are
excellent for pots; indeed, many
of the Early Single varieties are
suitable for house culture. Our
engravings show two pots of these
flowers. A very pretty arrange-
ment is to plant a variety of Bulbs
4 in baskets or boxes. Any one can
secure such a box without any cost,

emer

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Os AYA yyy : y \ y
Po a a NN an IN ie attaching a few sticks or pieces of FG a Wp
— ee bark to the front and sides, as shown eS pul

—— = in the engraving below. Fill the
BULBS IN POTS. box with sandy soil, and if a little
moss broken up finely is mixed with the soil it will keep it from becoming packed or heavy from
frequent watering. The box can then be planted with Bulbs, all of one kind or different kinds
— planting those that grow the highest in the center, and the low growing kinds on the edges.

Another very good plan is to have a box, similar to the one described, as a kind of little
nursery, or reserve. Fill it almost entirely with broken up moss, with a very little sandy soil.
Plant this with Crocuses, Hyacinths, &c., and keep it in any convenient, pretty cool room,
where it will not freeze. As fast as the plants come into flower you can take them up and
place them in glasses of water, and thus keep up a supply for the parlor or sitting room for a
long time. If preferred, these Bulbs, when in flower, can be placed in pots or baskets filled with
damp moss. In fact, they can be used in almost any way desired, and will be found to produce
the greatest satisfaction, furnishing flowers for a long time. If placed in moss, it must be kept
constantly moist or the flowers will suffer. Bulbs, when Boyer in the ce should be kept
in as moderately cool a room as pos-
sible. If placed in a living room,
which is kept at the usual temperature
of such rooms, from 70 to 75 degrees,
they will bloom too early, and the
flowers will soon fade. A good ar-
rangement is to keep them in a parlor,
or some spare room, not frequently :
used, and which is usually kept pretty
cool. They will then mature slowly
and keep in perfection a long time. A
few may be brought into the sitting-
room, placed on the dining table occasionally, or may be even taken to church, for special occa-
sions, when floral decorations may be needed, and returned to their places as soon as possible.
In this way a bulb can be made to do long service. Nearly all failures, I think, result from
keeping plants in too dry an atmosphere and too high a temperature.

TIME OF BLOOMING. —- We are often asked when Hyacinths will bloom; can we have
flowers by Christmas? . The request often accompanying orders is, send me the early kinds,
so that I can soon have flowers. Now, the truth is, there is but a week or two of difference
between the time of flowering of the early and late sorts, and none except the little White
Roman will bloom by the holidays, with, perhaps, an exceptional case. The Hyacinth
needs a long season of rest, and does not become anxious to grow until about the first of
December, and this desire increases as time advances. A Hyacinth planted the first of Novem-
ber will go along moderately, and will take nearly three months in blooming. The same

128

TULIPS IN POTS.

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MINIATURE BULB GARDEN.

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Bulb, if kept out of the ground, in a cold and moist place, so that vitality is not weakened,
and planted in January, will flower in thirty or forty days. The Hollanders informed us that
the best way to force early flowers is to pot the bulbs as early as possible, sink the pots in the earth
in the garden, so that the bulbs will be covered several inches, and there let them remain a couple
ef weeks or more. Then remove to the green-house or room where they are to flower, giving
warmth, air and moisture pretty freely.

SuPpPoRT FOR HyAcINTHS.—When in flower, the tall Hyacinths need some
support for the flower stem, and various contrivances of wire, &c., have been
devised, but we have seen nothing so simple and effective as we show in the
engraving. It is made of hard wood and fastened to the neck of the glass by
a string. Any one, in a few minutes, with a sharp knife, can make this sup-
port. A brass or other wire can also be attached to the glass very readily.

BULBS IN THE GARDEN.—Nothing makes a prettier bed in the garden than
Hyacinths and Tulips. For a ribbon bed composed of three or more colors,
we know of nothing that excels the Tulip.

CARE OF BULBS AFTER FLOWERING.—When Bulbs have been flowered in
water, they should, as soon as the flowers begin to fade, be removed and
planted in earth, where they will get a little nourishment for the future good
w of the Bulb. Even then the Bulb is much weakened, and it is useless to try
to flower Bulbs in water twice, though they will answer for the garden.
iy All Bulbs with annual roots, which includes pretty much all but the Lilies,
i) can be taken up, as soon as the leaves become ripe and brown, and be stowed
away without the least injury to the flowers of the next season, because the
It roots will die if the Bulbs are allowed to remain in the ground. After taking
Mi them up, allow them to dry in the shade for a few days. Then remove the
Hy tops, roots and rough skin, and put them away in paper bags, properly labelled,
i in a cool place in the house until planting time in the Autumn. Look at them
sow W occasionally during the summer to see that they are receiving no injury. If
HYACINTH SUPPORT the beds are needed for other plants, so as to have a continuous show of
flowers, the plants can be set when young between the rows of Bulbs, and before the space is
heeded by the new crop the Bulbs will have ripened their leaves, and will receive no injury from
‘the new occupants, and the old Bulbs can remain in the ground. They may, however, be removed
as soon as flowering is over and replanted in some corner of the garden, there to remain until
ripe, or until time for planting in the beds again in Autumn. MHyacinths gradually deteriorate in
this country, but Tulips and almost all other Bulbs retain their good character and increase in number.

HYACINTHS.

THE HYACINTH is the most beautiful and fragrant and popular of the Bulbous flowers, and
seems particularly designed for house culture. _It is cultivated in every Northern country in the
world, where it does more than any other flower to make winter cheerful. A very small pot
will answer for the Hyacinth, but some prefer to plant three or four in a large pot, and this
makes a very pretty ornament. [Fill the pot with sandy, porous soil. Make a space in the
soil for the bulb, so that it will be about half below the earth, then press the bulb down so that it
will just show its upper surface above the soil, then water, giving all the earth will hold. The
pots can now be set away in a cool, dark cellar for several weeks, where they will make roots, but
the top will advance but little. By removing a few at a time into a warm, light room, something
of a succession can be kept up. When we speak of a warm room for bulbs we do not mean 75
or 80 degrees, but less than 70, if possible.

When placed in glasses for winter flowering the base of the bulb should just touch the water;
it will soon evaporate so that the water is a little below the base of the bulb, and this is as it should
be. Set them away in a cool place, as recommended for Hyacinths in pots. As soon as
flower buds appear, sprinkling the leaves and buds is of benefit, and give plenty of light and
air, and as moist an atmosphere as possible. No Hyacinth can do itself justice if flowered in a
room ranging from seventy-five to eighty degrees, and dry as well as hot.

A good plan is to keep a stand containing the stock of Hyacinths in a parlor or hall, which
is kept most of the time at a low temperature. From this room they can be taken as needed

129

—one or two of each color —to the sitting, or the dining-room, for special occasions, but always
returned to their cool quarters forthe night. By this method they not only flower well, but keep
hes in bloom a long time. Change the water occasionally, if
it becomes discolored. The choice named varieties grow
best in glasses and pots, and single are more reliable
than double sorts for house-culture, while they are in every
respect as desirable. Some of the double sorts do well in
the house, but the selection of varieties should be left to
those who have some knowledge of their habits.
Hyacinths should be planted in the garden in Septem-
ber, October or November. For beds of early flowers
on the lawn, nothing excels the Hyacinth. Where beds
are small and so near together that they can all be seen at
once, it is well to fill each one with a separate color.
Plant Hyacinths in the garden from three to four inches
below the surface of the soil, and in ground likely to be
, much affected by freezing and thawing, be sure to give a
+, good covering before severe frosts. Hyacinth flowers may
|/// be cut freely, without injury to the bulbs. Indeed, all flower
ZZ} stalks should be removed as soon as the flowers begin to
fade. In about five or six weeks after flowering, and when
the leaves are becoming yellow, the bulbs may be taken
up, dried, and
packed away
in paper bags
or boxes, for
planting again
in the fall. If
the beds are
needed fer
other flowers,
as is generally
the case, the bulbs may be removed in about two
weeks after the flowers have faded. In this case, after
removing the flower stems, if this has not been done
before, place the bulbs on a dry bed in the garden, and
cover them with a little earth, leaving the leaves
exposed. Here they can remain until the leaves have
ripened, when they are ready to be packed away for
fall planting, or can remain where they are until
needed.

Hyacinths will usually commence flowering in this
latitude the latter part of April, and by choosing the
Early and Late varieties, a good show of blossoms
can be secured for about three weeks if the weather
is not too hot and dry. The Zafe varieties are mostly
double, and are from one to two weeks later than the
Larly sorts. The Zow sorts throw up a stem five or
six inches in height, and the trusses are usually globu-
lar and compact. The Zad/ sorts have a flower stem
from six to ten inches or more in height, and the DOUBLE HYACINTH.
trusses are usually more loose. The Roman Hyacinth is a very early flowering, white variety,
that comes into bloom about the Holidays, and therefore is very popular with florists for cut flowers.
The spikes are small, the flowers somewhat scattering, but each bulb gives several spikes, usually.

130

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SINGLE HYACINTH.

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Hyacinths differ in habit very much, some varieties throwing up a strong flower stalk,
with a bold and rather loose truss, while others have but a short stem with a compact, almost

ROMAN HYACINTH.

globular truss. The stronger growing kinds generally have larger
bells, while those of a more dwarf habit present small bells in
immense numbers. The low growing kinds often throw up two or
more flower stems. The bright red co.ors are all low, with a com-
pact truss, and disposed to throw up several flower stalks. Our artist
has attempted to show the difference of habit, and while not with
very flattering success, sufficient, perhaps, for our present purpose.

SINGLE TALL.

DOUBLE TALL.

The Hyacinth is a native of the East, abounding in parts of Turkey and Syria. It has been,
however, cultivated for nearly two hundred years in England. For a long time, blue and pink
were the only colors, and the rich, deep red and the yellow are of somewhat recent introduction.
Of the latter color we have not much yet to boast, for we do not know of any clear, bright

yellow Hyacinth. To the Hollanders
we are indebted for nearly all the im-
provement made in this beautiful flow-
er. The florists of Holland have almost
entirely monopolized the culture of
Hyacinths, and their skill is only equal-
ed by their success; though, doubtless,
a remarkable soil and climate have
much to do in securing to the good
people of Holland the exclusive culture
of this most popular of our winter
flowers.

Hyacinth growers like a single,
clean stem, and it would not be ortho-
dox to say that anything else is desirable,
but ‘really and truly,” some of the pret-
tiest objects we have ever seen have
been Hyacinths, which, against all rule
and order, have thrown up four or five
flower stems, forming a mass of bloom
truly gorgeous. Our engraving shows
one with nine spikes of flowers, grown
by J. FisHBAck, Esq., of Jacksonville,
Illinois. May all our readers meet with

HYACINTH WITH NINE FLOWER STEMS.

success in the culture of this beautiful flower. With care, there is no reason why one should
fail. There will be occasional disappointments, as there are in all the business and pleasures of
life; but no one should be satisfied with general failure, nor expect uninterrupted success.

131

TULIPS.

THE TULIP is so perfectly hardy, flourishes so well under the most ordinary care, and is so
varied and brilliant, that it never fails to give the greatest satisfaction. I sell but very few bulbs
with so much pleasure as the Tulips, because I feel sure they will be more than satisfactory. The

DUC VAN T

Tulip is dashing and showy, of the most brilliant and varied and deli-
cate coloring, and desirable even as single specimens, but it is when
grown in masses that the finest effect is produced. Nothing in the
floral world can equal the dazzling brilliancy and gorgeousness of a
bed of good Tulips. The early varieties are excellent for house culture.
Any good garden soil will do for the Tulip. A very rich soil is.
not necessary, though well rotted manure, rotted sods, or leaf-mold
may be applied when the earth is poor. See that the drainage is.
good before planting. Plant in October
and November. Make the soil fine and wy cN
deep. Set the Zarly flowering kinds five | 4
inches apart, and the Late varieties six
inches. Cover three inches deep. After
Tulips have done flowering they can be
taken up and planted close together in

any corner of the garden until it is time to replant in the beds in the
autumn, or Verbenas or other bedding plants can be set out between

the rows, and before they cover the ground the leaves of the Tulips }\

will be sufficiently ripe to be removed, and the ground raked off.

Tulips are divided into two general classes, EARLY and LATE,
and these again into several others. The earliest Tulips flower in this
latitude the latter part of April, and bya proper selection of early and
late sorts a good display can be kept up for more than a month, if the
weather proves tolerably cool and moist.

Early Tulips. — The earfest of the early class is the Duc VAN

DOUBLE TULIP.

THOL, single and double.
They are in bloom here in
April. The single varieties are of fine colors —
white, yellow, scarlet, crimson, etc., growing about six
inches in height, and make brilliant, dazzling beds. They
are also excellent for flowering in the house during the
winter, three or four inapot. The double variety is about
the same height, red, bordered with yellow. We recom-
mend those not acquainted with them to try a few Duc
Van Thols for winter flowering in pots, or boxes, or bas-
kets. Let the soil be very sandy, and if mixed witha
little moss, all the better.

The TourRNESOL follows the Duc Van Thol, with very
large, double flowers, keeping in bloom a long time, and
very desirable in all respects. | Two varieties, orange
and red, and very fine yellow. Good for pot culture

in winter. |
Following the Tournesol, is a large class of SINGLE

EARLY TULIPS, containing very many splendid varieties.
They flower early, before the sun becomes very hot, and
hence continue in perfection longer than later kinds.
These can always be depended upon for a brilliant and
enduring bed. No class of Tulips will give greater satis-

faction. These, like the two preceding kinds, will give great satisfaction grown in pots in the
house. For bedding in masses, and especially for the formation of ribbon beds, these Single

Early Tulips are unsurpassed.

152

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Double Tulips.—The DousLre TuLirs are becoming more popular every year, and this
popularity is not undeserved. Some are beautifully formed, with delicate shades and stripes;
others are as large and brilliant as the old Paony; while others of equal size are fine yellow,
rose, white, etc. The list of named varieties, pos-
sessing more or less distinctness, is quite large.

Parrot Tulips. — The PARROT TULIPS are ex-
ceedingly brilliant. The petals are long, loose and
fringed. Most varieties have three or four colors,
as crimson, yellow, orange and green; and the
effect of such a mingling of bright colors may be
imagined. Those who
plant the Parrots, and
are unacquainted with
them, will be surprised
at their gay appearance. |

Late Tulips. —Of f#
the LATE TuLips there fff
are many varieties, the |
distinction between each
more or less clearly de-
fined. “These are: the

\ HIN great favorites with flor-
SEO RETEP... , ists the world over, and
are truly magnificent, with tall, stately stems, usually eighteen inches in height, and large, well-
formed, highly colored cups. The Late Tulips are divided into Bzzarres, Byblooms and Roses.
The Bizarres have yellow ground, marked with any other color. yblooms have white ground,
marked with purple and violet. Roses have white ground, marked or variegated with rose,
scarlet, crimson or cherry. I have some two hundred named varieties of this class, but many do
not differ very materially from others of a different name, though all are exceedingly fine.

The engraving shows the general appearance of the Tulip Bulb, though the varieties differ a
good deal in form. A full sized bulb, when planted in the autumn, blossoms the coming
spring. The bulb planted decays, flowering but once, and gives place to one or more new bulbs,
that will bloom the next spring. These may be taken up or allowed to remain in the ground,
As the new bulb has no roots, removal does not injure flowering in the least, though unless

TULIP BULB.

DUC VAN THOL, SINGLE EARLY. DOUBLE, LATE SHOW. PARROT.

replanted pretty early in the autumn, those that are allowed to remain in the ground flower a
few days earlier. This is true of Hyacinths and all bulbs that are taken up and dried.

We give the accompanying small sketches of Tulips when in flower, to show the habits of the
different classes. They are as correct as we can give in so small a space, though different
varieties in the same class often show quite a difference in habit.

We have endeavored to give pretty full descriptions of the Tulip, and simple directions for
culture, and if further information is needed on any point, we shall be happy to furnish the desired
facts in the FLORAL GUIDE, where we answer all inquiries. The large engravings showing the

cut flowers are about one-half the natural size.
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CROCUS.

THE CROCUSES are very interesting flowers, delicate and tasteful in form, and varied and gay
in color. They begin to throw up their leaves before the frost is fairly gone, and in sheltered
situations in this latitude will flower in March, though early in April is their season of greatest
beauty. For several weeks, and until the flowering of the Hyacinth,
through the most changeable and unpleasant of the spring weather, the
garden depends upon the Crocus almost alone for its brightness.

Crocuses must be planted in the autumn. Set the bulbs about three
inches apart and cover with not less than two inches of earth. Before
winter sets in, cover the bed with a little straw, coarse manure, or other
litter, to prevent the bulbs being thrown out by the frost. The Crocus will
flower well in the house in winter— half a dozen or more ina little pot —
or in baskets of moss, or in any other way that good taste may suggest.
The bulbs may be set so close as almost to touch each other.

== a There is really but one objection to its use in the house, and that is the

WY YY Yy Yi brief existence of the bloom. However, the Crocus is so cheap and flowers

CA Lp so soon after planting, that it will always prove interesting and remain
ta p

Ay , popular. For general purposes the unnamed are quite as good as the
named, and as they are bought by the hundred for less than two cents
each, cannot be considered an expensive luxury. The Yellow are the
most vigorous in growth. A few Crocuses scattered over the lawn is a pretty sight.

COLCHICUM.

The CoLcHiIcum, or Autumn Crocus, is a curious and interesting flower. The leaves appear

in the spring, and the flowers in the autumn, and the seed the next midsummer. This singular
habit makes the flower very interesting both to the Botanist and
Florist. |The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and we have never known
one injured by the winter. Each bulb gives quite a cluster of
flowers, generally six or eight, and so persistent is it in its determina-
tion to flower, that if taken up early in the autumn, before time
for flowering, and placed in a pot or basket, it will bloom just as
well as if left in the ground. Indeed, if placed upon a bracket or
shelf, without either soil or moisture, the pretty pinkish flowers will
appear just the same as though it had retained its natural position
in the ground. C. autumnalis is a delicate pink; C. Agrippina cf
a deeper color and checkered. A few of either variety will afford

CROCUS.

great satisfaction, and to those who have never grown the Colchicum coLceee
we would say, try them, and obtain the cheapest, if money is of any particular consequence,
SNOW-DROP.

THE first flower of spring is the delicate SNow-Drop, white as snow. _ Its appearance about
the first of March is a joyful surprise. The bulbs are quite small; the leaves and flowers about
\ six inches in height. Plant in the fall, in beds or masses of a
dozen or more, about. two inches apart, and about the same depth.
They are very desirable for growing in pots, etc., in the house in
winter. A dozen may be planted in quite a small pot or saucer.
A few planted on the lawn produce a fine effect early in the spring,
and mowing will not destroy the bulbs, for the leaves will ripen
so early that they will be pretty well matured before the grass will
need cutting. Perfectly hardy, and bulbs can remain several years
without removal.
The SNow FLAKE, (Lezcojum,) is sometimes called the Large
Snow-Drop, from its resemblance to this delicate flower. It is
much larger, and more robust in habit. Flowers white, with

SNOW-DROP. bright green spots. Once planted, it manages to take care of itself
pretty effectually, and flowers very freely in summer. It is not as desirable as the Snow-Drop.
134

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NARCISSUS.
THE NARCISSUS is a very fine class of early blooming flowers, including the well known Daf-
fodiland Jonquil. Most of the varieties are hardy, and should be planted in the autumn, like the
| Hyacinth, but may remain in the ground a

A n 5
iit number of years, after which they will become

\ , so matted together as to make a division of
i the roots necessary.
\= The Szagle JVarcissus is extremely hardy

and popular as a border flower, and the cen-
tral cup being of a different color from the
six petals, makes the flower exceedingly at-
tractive. Some have the petals of a light
yellow and the cup orange; others have the
petals white and the cup yellow; while the
Poet’s Narcissus (/Varcissus poeticus,) some-
| | times called Pheasant’s Eye, is snowy white,
SINGLE NARCISSUS. DOUBLE NaRcissus, the cup cream color, with a delicate fringed
edge of red, which gives its latter name. The Dozd/e varieties are very desirable. The common
Daffodil is well known under that name, though not so well by its true one, Vaz Szon.
The most beautiful class of the Narcissus family, however, is the Polyanthus Narcissus. The
flowers are produced in clusters or trusses of from half a dozen to three times this number.
Like the others, they show every shade of color, from the purest imaginable white to deep orange.
The Polyanthus Narcissus is not quite <=
hardy in this climate, unless planted in a
sandy soil, and well covered before winter,
and then often fails; further South it does
well. For flowering in pots in the house
the Polyanthus Narcissus is unsurpassed,
and nothing can be more satisfactory for
this purpose. The Jonquils are also de-
sirable for winter flowering. Three or four
may be grown ina small pot. Try them in
the house this winter; you will find nothing
sweeter. The Polyanthus Narcissus will
also flower well in glasses of water, like the
Hyacinth, and it is desirable to grow a few
in this way, yet nothing looks so natural and

Vig ,
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A le

YY \
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nice as a good healthy plant in a neat pot of TRUMPET NARCISSUS. | POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS.
earth, and no other method leaves the bulb in a sound, healthy condition for the next season.
SCILLAS.

The ScILa is the brightest and prettiest and hardiest of the early spring flowers. When the
Crocuses are in bloom the little modest S. Szderica and S. campanu-
‘ lata may be seen throwing up a little cluster of flowers of the most in-
tense blue imaginable. The flower stem is only about four inches, and
is just the pretty flower that everybody craves for the button hole. The
plant flowers without showing a leaf. After the flowers are gone the
leaves appear, and these should not be injured. Many, after the flower
has disappeared, remove the leaves so as to make room for other plants,
but this course injures the bulbs unless the leaves are pretty well matured.
No bulb is more hardy or more competent to take care of itself. The
bulbs are quite small, as is also the plant, and, like all small bulbous
rooted plants, look best and are less likely to be destroyed if grown in
= little masses—a dozen or so ina group. When small bulbous roots are
SCILLA. scattered over the garden singly, they are almost certain to be destroyed

especially where help in cleaning up the garden is occasionally employed.
135

RIAL.

Early in the spring, before the frost is fairly out of the ground, the strong flower stem of
the Crown Imperial begins to appear, and gradually it ascends, the most brilliant green of the
garden, the true herald of spring, upward and
upward, until it stands erect full three feet in
height, its glossy emerald leaves waving in the
breeze, and often bending beneath the untimely
snow. Nearly at the top of this column appears
the flowery crown of bell-shaped flowers, and
above these a tuft of leaves, all forming a pretty
crown from which its name is derived. Although
the Crown Imperial is so pretty in early spring,
its fragrance is not at all desirable. The flower

stem, when removed, leaves an open space in the

center of the bulb, which sometimes causes those

inexperienced to consider the bulb injured.
i) There are several varieties, differing mainly in
the color of the flowers, as yellow, scarlet, red,
orange, &c. The bulbs should be planted four
or five inches deep and about a foot apart. They
will not usually flower the first year after planting.
This is one of those hardy and useful plants about
which there is no mystery or difficulty. Once
put in the ground, and having obtained a fair
start, it will continue to grow and increase
from year to year, until the children become men and women, and often decorate the graves of
those who first planted them, scores of years before.

SMILAX.

This plant, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, has now become one of the essentials of. the
florist and amateur. It is extensively used in decorating parlors and reception rooms and for dec-
orating the hair, and for trimming party dresses, for which purpose it is not only admirably adapted,
being an extremely
graceful vine, with
lossy green leaves, but
surpasses anything with
which we are acquaint-
ed. With a little care
it can be grown suc-
cessfully as a house
plant. The vine does
not require the full sun,
but will grow well in a
partially shaded -situa-
tion. It can be trained
on a small thread across
the window or around
pictures. Grown from
both seeds and bulbs. SMILAX.

Pot the bulbs as soon as received, watering but little until you see signs of growth. They
grow very rapidly, and should always have strings to twine on. Give plenty of fresh air, but be
careful and not let a direct draft of cold air blow upon the vines, as they are very tender when
young. Give them a warm place, and they will amply repay all care. When growth is complete the
foliage will turn yellow. Then gradually withhold water, and allow the bulbs to dry. They
then can be put away in some dry, cool place. After they have been in this dormant state six or
eight weeks they will begin to show signs of life, and then are ready for another season’s growth,

136

CROWN IMPERIAL.

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OR

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ANEMONE.

ALL will admit, who have ever seen the ANEMONE in bloom, that it is a most beautiful flower.
Double and single are both desirable — the single the most brilliant. The Anemone has not been
grown generally, because it has been

thought too tender to
bear our winters. The

Mi)
i) \\

W7 )
(QD)

i Yi) bulbs may be kept
ST NCAR Alih) i] . = “f
i, tet spring, and
EM) RN Saye Mp», Planted early will flow-

au)

7.0 a well. Although
unable to recommend
the Anemones for fall
planting in the North

HINT 8
il hs if
a8 i, Al W 7
Ny A
with the same confi-

ANEMONE ROOT. dence we do more SINGLE ANEMONE.

DOUBLE ANEMONE.
hardy things, they are well worthy of trial, and those who succeed will be delighted. The roots
look like dried ginger. Plant them five inches apart, and cover three inches deep. They flower
after the Hyacinth, and continue a long time in bloom. When the leaves begin to turn yellow,
the roots may be taken up, dried in the shade, and packed away.

RANUNCULDS.
THE RANUNCULUS is not considered hardy generally, but with good dry soil, with drainage
so that the surface water may run off easily, tolerable success may be obtained. _Desirable for

culture in the house. The bulbs are very curious, tooth-like, and may
be kept out of ground almost any length of time, and will then grow
as well as when freshly taken up. They can, therefore, be kept until
the spring, and if then planted early, in a pretty cool place, like the
north side of a fence or hedge, the result will be

usually quite satisfactory. Our fierce
summer suns are not favorable to ¢
the full development of this flower, 3
as it delights in a cool, moist at- '%
| mosphere. This fact should be re-
membered in house culture. No
success may be looked for in a hot,

RANUNCULUS PLANT. dry room. This is one of those beau- R FLOWER.
tiful flowers that will never be common in America, but which may be secured by proper culture.
IRIS.

The Iris, or Flowering Flag, as it is called, or Fleur de dis of the French, is a well known

i family of hardy border flowers. They are na- in
tives of damp spots in all four quarters of the
globe, but were adopted for garden culture
more than three hundred years ago. In
that time they have become very much im-
proved, and some varieties are exceedingly
beautiful. Sustana major is five inches
across, and of the richest colors and most
singular markings. The javonza is small,
but beautifully marked, almost looking like
a butterfly. This, however, is not hardy,
and is suitable for winter flowering in the
house. The others are perfectly hardy,
needing scarcely ordinary care. The J.
Persica, also, is admirable for winter flower-

IRIS PLANT. ing. The Anglica, and Hispanica classes, IRIS FLOWER.
and the Swstana major are especially desirable for the garden, and deserve general culture.
187

OXALIS.

An interesting class of small bulbs, desirable for winter-flowering in pots, producing an abund-
ance of bloom. They should be potted as early as convenient, and in nice sandy loam, with —
good drainage. Most of the varieties have small bulbs, and should be planted from three to five
bulbs in a pot; verszcolor is particularly small. | When through
flowering, and the foliage begins to turn yellow, let them dry off
gradually. When perfectly dry, knock them out of the pots, sepa-
rate, and plant on fresh soil, keeping them in a dry place. About
August or September they will commence growing again. Then
bring them to the light and air, and commence watering. In this.
. way the bulbs will keep sound all summer, and will increase
rapidly. The leaves, as will be seen by the engraving, resemble
in form the Clover leaf; indeed, the celebrated Irish Shamrock is
an Oxalis. As the leaves are on long, slender stalks, and con-
sequently droop, it can be readily understood how well the Oxalis.
is adapted to hanging baskets and other similar purposes. Gener-
ally, both leaves and flowers are abundant, so that a few plants pre-
sent a very cheerful aspect during the whole winter. There are

== varieties that will not blossom in the winter, and these are mostly
OXALIS. desirable for borders, edgings, &c., and those fiigured on page 116
are especially desirable for this work, and are becoming very popular as summer border plants ;
but it is the winter flowering sorts, so desirable for pot culture, and particularly for basket
work, to which we desire to call especial attention. Our little engraving shows a plant in bloom,
but the different varieties vary very much in habit, and the plants make a more vigorous growth

and fill a larger space than the size of the bulb would seem to indicate. We have plants now,
almost globular in form, and measuring from a foot to eighteen inches in diameter.
CYCLAMEN.

This pretty flower is too little known. It is a native of Europe and Asia, some varieties being
very abundant in Switzerland and Italy. It is of the easiest culture. Pot in October or Novem-
ber, in rich loam; mix about a spoonful of soot with
the same, which will add brilliancy and size to the
flowers. Bits of charcoal, broken fine, will serve
the same purpose. Use a small pot, and place the
crown of the bulb just above the surface of the soil.
Keep the plants cool till the leaves are well grown.
When the flower buds begin to rise on the foot stalks
remove to a sunny shelf, where they will soon
show bloom. Place as near the glass as possible.
After the blooming season (which generally lasts
two or three months,) is over, gradually withhold
water, and let the leaves dry down. The plant
seeds freely, but it is not a good plan to allow it to
ripen the seed, as it hurts the blooming qualities of
the bulb. Seedlings bloom when two years old.
To keep the bulbs through the summer, bury them »
in the open border. Take them up about the mid-
dle of September, and they will be found plump and
fresh. Itis particularly adapted for window culture, CYCLAMEN PERSICUM.
and will give more flowers with less trouble than almost any plant we are acquainted with. The
colors are usually white, tipped at the base with rich rosy purple. _In all the species both leaves
and flowers spring directly from a solid tuberous rootstalk, as shown in the engraving. The
leaves are heart-shaped, while the flowers are of one petal, but deeply divided into five segments.
After flowering the flower stalk coils itself up in a spiral form, with the seed vessel in the center,
and bends itself toward the ground, in which position the seeds are ripened.

138

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IXTAS.

The Ixias are not destitute of beauty; indeed, some of them have strong claims to our regard
on account of their good looks, but there are few flowers that attract more attention by their curi-
ous forms and strange coloring. Some of them, and, indeed,
nearly all, showing three or more colors. They make a nice

IXIA FLOWER.

addition and give variety to the larger bulbs, as Hya-
cinths, &c., more commonly used in house culture,
and seldom fail to please. Several may be planted
in a small pot, and the treatment is the same as we
have recommended for other bulbs in pots. The
Ixias are all natives of the Cape of Good Hope and
portions of South Africa. The bulbs exude a viscid
gum when, cut, and hence the name, from a Greek
word which means fo fx. Our engraving shows the
form of flower and habit of plant, though there is a
greater difference in the form and color of Ixias than
with almost any other class of plants. The variety
we figure is Vir¢dzflora, and the prevailing color is

IXIA PLANT

green, the center being purple and pink, but the Ixias are of almost all imaginable diverse colors.

OTHER WINTER DECORATIONS.

In this department, so fruitful of subjects for winter flowers, it may be well to call attention
to the EVERLASTINGS, or IMMORTELLES, and GRASSES, so desirable for WINTER DECORATIONS.

The Grasses and Everlast-

Many of them, like the Acroclinium and Helichrysum, are grown
in this country, and they will be found described on pages 95, 96 and
97; but large quantities are im-
ported from Europe, especially of
the Gnaphalium, which is gener-
ally known as the Immortelle.
The natural color is yellow, but
they are bleached white, and dyed
of almost any color, by the ingenuity of French growers.

The Everlastings, with the /ea¢her and other Grasses,
make up nicely in bouquets and Floral Baskets. For mak-
ing ornamental letters, by attaching them to pasteboard forms,
the little Everlastings are excellent.. With a little skill
and taste and a good deal of patience, great things can
be accomplished in this way.

ings are sold by the bunch, pound or hundred by most florists, and are in great demand about
the Holidays for decorative purposes. Our engravings give some idea of this work.

HARDY CLIMBERS.

The Climbers are invaluable to the gardener. They furnish the drapery of the garden, and
transform the most unsightly stump and fence into objects of beauty. The Annual and Tender
Climbers are a reserve force, ready at the last minute to do their work. The Hardy Climbers,

once planted, remain and get better
every season. We can notice only -
a few of the best.

AMPELOPSIS QUINQUEFOLIA, or
VIRGINIA CREEPER, and some-
times called American Ivy and
Woodbine, is of rapid growth, will
go to the top of any building, and
in the autumn its “foliage is of the
most elegant crimson.

AMPELOPSIS VEITCHII, from Ja-
pan. The foliage is small, and the whole plant slender.
It climbs closely to the smoothest surface, but suffers some-
times in the winter.

AKEBIA QUINATA, a Singular Japanese Climber, with small,
pretty foliage, and small
chocolate brown flowers ;
a rapid grower.

ARISTOLOCHIA SIPHO,
or DUTCHMAN’S PIPE, is
a rapid growing Hardy
Climber, with very large
leaves in abundance, com-
pletely covering any wall
or trellis to ae

TRUMPET VINE. which it may
be attached. It is perfectly hardy everywhere.

BIGNONIA RADICANS, or TRUMPET CREEPER,
is a very strong and rapid grower, with clusters
of large, trumpet-shaped, orange-scarlet flowers. ”

CELASTRUS SCANDENS, or CLIMBING BITTER
SWEET, is another beautiful native Climber.

ae LONICERA, HONEYSUCKLE. — Halleana, an evergreen
variety from Japan. The flowers are white, changing to yel-
low; quite fragrant.

Fapan Gold-veined. Foliage small, and _ beautifully
netted with creamy yellow; flowers small, white and sweet.

Monthly Fragrant, or Dutch ; the flowers of this variety
are red and pale yellow; it blooms through the whole
summer.

Scarlet Trumpet is monthly, and evergreen, or nearly so;
flowers two inches in length, scarlet outside and yellow in.

CLEMATIS FLAMMULA, European Sweet, a very sweet-
scented variety, but flowers small and white.

Virginiana, the common Virgin’s Bower, a native climber,
with clusters of small white flowers ; fruit with feathery tails.

Fackmanit. ‘This is one of the new English hybrids that
are attracting so much attention in all parts of the world.

WISTARIA SINENSIS, Chinese Wistaria, is a rapid, strong grower, and when once well estab-
lished will grow twenty feet in a season. The flowers are in long racemes, and light purple.

140

ARISTOLOCHIA SIPHO.

CLIMBING BITTER-SWEET.

CLEMATIS JACKMANII.

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ROSHS AND BEDDING PLANTS.

- Roses we place in two great divisions, HARDY and TENDER. The Hardy are those that
will endure the winters, say of Rochester, N. Y., or Boston, Mass., without protection, or with

ealine

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HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE.

flower in June.

TENDER RosrEs. — The Zender Roses are the
Teas, Bourbons, Chinas and Noisettes. Their
flowers are delicate in color, voluptuous in ap-
pearance, and deliciously fragrant. Of course
these are hardy in the South and on the Pacific
coast, and are far preferable to all others. As
pot roses they are the only kinds worth growing.
The Zeas are the most fragrant. The flowers
are usually large, and the colors soft and pleas-
ing, mostly white, straw and flesh, and the
combinations of these with pink or rose. They
are the tenderest of all the ever blooming roses,
and require a pit or cellar in winter. Bourbons
and Chinas are among the hardiest of the Ten-
der Roses, usually of dwarf habit or moderate
growth. In colors they are from white to deep
crimson, but embrace no yellows. The WVozsettes
are valuable as climbers or for pillars, and nearly
all very fragrant, almost as much so as the
Teas, from which they are mostly hybrids. They
are quite tender, but where they will endure the
winter they form the finest specimens of all the
tribe of Roses.

what we can easily furnish —a little straw
or a few evergreen boughs. The Zender
Roses are those that will not endure a
Northern winter, while they do finely
South, and are those so desirable for house
plants. In each of these grand divisions
there are several classes, and in each class

_ a good many varieties.

Harby Roses.—The leading member
of this class is the Hybrid Perpetual, con-
taining hundreds of varieties, of different
habits. The flowers are generally of strong
colors, and appear abundantly in June, and
a few flowers are usually seen through the
summer and fall, especially if the plants
are cut back after the June flowering. If
the season should happen to be a little
moist, some of them will bloom almost as
well as the so-called monthlies. The
Climbing Roses are but few in number, and

The Moss Roses bloom in June, and sometimes occasionally during the season.

WS
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TEA ROSE.

The most popular BEDDING PLANTs of the present day are the FoL1aGE PLANTS and GERA-
NIUMS. Among the former may be found many forms resembling the luxuriant growth of the

tropics — Ricinus, Cannas and Caladiums.

The numerous varieties of Colews vary in color from
a pea-green and golden yellow to bronze, and some almost black.

Centaurea, or some other white leaved plants, form a pleasing sight.
are wanted there is nothing that will take the place of the scarlet Geraniums.

These, with a border of
Where bright flowers
Single roots or

small clumps of Erianthus and Pampas Grass set in the lawn, make a very fine show.

141

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MUSHROOM CULTURE.

Our readers are, of course, well acquainted with Mushrooms of the meadows, so abundant in
many places in the damp, cool weather and dewy nights of autumn. Some pass them without
notice, or think of them only as Toad-stools, while others seem to rush for every tiny specimen
as eagerly as though they were gathering diamonds. We desire to show how Mushrooms can be
cultivated so as to secure a supply during the spring and early summer, before they can be obtained
from the fields. _ It is difficult to grow them in the heat of summer, but in spring and autumn
they may be grown without difficulty. There are a good many varieties, but the one cultivated
and the one we find growing wild in the autumn is Agaricus campestris.

. All that is needed for success is a temperature
from 50 to 60 degrees, some fresh horse manure
and a little spawn. Having procured what fresh
horse manure is needed, mix it well with about
one-third of its bulk of good loam, and you are
prepared to make your beds in whatever place
you prefer. If you determine to form beds, make
them narrow, certainly not more than five feet in
breadth, and about fifteen inches in height. The
material must be made compact by beating down
as evenly as possible. _If under cover, the beds
may be made flat on the top, but if in the open
air should be rounded to shed the rain, somewhat
as shown in the small engraving. After the beds
have been made a week there will be consider-

ences ah ne able heat produced by the fermentation of the
manure. Bricks of spawn should have been secured previously, and they can be had of most
seedsmen, postage or expressage free, at about thirty cents a pound. Break them into pieces

about as large as walnuts and insert in the beds, just below the surface, about ten inches apart.
One pound of spawn is sufficient for a space two by six feet. If there seems to be much heat, do
nothing for a week or ten days, until it somewhat subsides. Then cover the bed with an inch
or more of good earth, pressing it down with the back of a spade. It is not likely in a large bed
water will be needed at all; but if the material should appear very dry, water lightly with warm
water. In small beds or boxes, or any thing of the kind, it is probable water will be needed once
or twice. Mushrooms will begin to appear in about six weeks after planting the spawn, and can
be gathered for three or four weeks. In
gathering, take up the Mushroom entire,
leaving no stem in the bed, and placing. a =
little earth in the hole made by its removal. :
When the crop is gathered, cover the bed
with a little more earth, beat it down gently,
and give a pretty good moistening with MUSHROOM BED.

tepid water, and in about a month more you may expect that another crop will be produced.
Many of our readers have succeeded, even on a first trial, but it is with this as with all new
things, that success is not always certain.

The Mushroom is very accommodating, and will grow as well in the dark as the light, in
cellars or sheds, in beds or boxes, if the temperature is about right and uniform. For the Paris
market, and, indeed, for exportation, they are grown in the neighborhood of Paris in immense
quantities in old stone quarries, which are really under-ground caves. __It will be well for those
who are fond of Mushrooms, or who feel an interest in the matter, to make a trial in a small way
at first. There is another variety of Mushroom found in a great many parts of the country, and
in some places quite abundantly in the spring. It appears as if honey-combed, and is most
abundant in thin woods or orchards. It is known as the Morel, (Morschella esculenta,) and we

have heard of its cultivation in only one recent case in Europe.
142

(wad? aca 8 eh W a | i es ‘woh IX 5

THE Vegetable Department is, to many of our readers, exceedingly interesting, and should
be to all; for while we have no sympathy with those who say they ‘“‘see more beauty in a

Cabbage or hill of Potatoes than in the finest flower that ever grew,” we do most heartily agree

with those who take pride and pleasure in the culture of choice vegetables, and their improve-
ment, and who are ready to say, with DIOCLETIAN, “ were you to come to my garden, and see
the vegetables I raise with my own hands, you would no longer talk to me of empire.””? As much
skill is required to produce an improved vegetable as a new and valuable flower, and perhaps as
much as is needed to govern a nation; and the pleasure of success, we doubt not, is quite as
great. The improvement in our vegetables for the past score of years has been great; indeed,
we notice desirable progress almost every season, and more particularly in the purity of the seeds.
To keep varieties pure, and true to name, requires a constant struggle, about which the nur-
serymen and florist who propagate by budding and grafting, and by cuttings and divisions of
roots, know nothing, and of which gardeners usually have but little appreciation.

ASPARAGUS.

This now popular vegetable is so well known that most persons who have had experience in
vegetable gardening are pretty well acquainted with its habits. The Asparagus is a salt water
plant, indigenous to various parts of the coast of Europe and Asia,
growing in salt water marshes. It has escaped from our gardens, and
is now found in some places on the American coast, and is sometimes
observed in meadows. ‘The plant is perennial, and grows some five
feet in height, with a branching stem, fine cylindrical leaves, small
greenish flowers, and red berries containing black seed. The seed
may be sown either in the spring or autumn, in drills, about one inch
deep, and the rows wide enough apart to admit of hoeing — about a
_ foot. An ounce of seed is sufficient for a drill thirty feet in length.

Ml = Keep the soil mellow and free
from weeds during the summer,
and in the fall or succeeding spring the plants may be set
out in beds, about a foot apart each way. The beds should
be narrow, so as to permit of cutting to the center without
stepping upon them. The plants may remain in the seed-
bed until two years old, if desired. Before winter, cover
the transplanted beds with about four inches of manure. .
A good many varieties are advertised, with but little dif- °%/
ference. As Asparagus plants are all grown from seed, it
will be seen that there is great opportunity for variation.
Salt is an excellent manure for Asparagus, and an efficient assistant to the cultivator, keeping

down the weeds with very little labor. When grown in large quantities for market, Asparagus
143

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gor Da 3 ‘ Sra ey. ZN
SS 2 Zs BPN YR
2m A\IZAN Ss CG AR | md Li , ASSN SPH iN =

is often planted a foot apart in the rows, and the rows three feet apart, and sometimes three
feet apart each way. Cut for use the third year after planting, and if the shoots appear pretty
strong, a little may be cut the second year. The part used is the young shoots when about
five or six inches in height, and when the bud is close and

re eens firm, and these should be cut a little below the surface, with a

i Ba sloping cut. It is not best to continue the cutting late in the
ay Zz SS . season, unless the shoots are very robust. Always give the bed
YW" WF \ a good dressing of manure in the fall, first removing the dead
ANY ee brush of the past season. As an Asparagus bed will last longer
We) " / ges We = than the maker, it should be well made, and there should be
N\\ FR! \\ S no haste in cutting, Those who do not wish the trouble and
i; | aye cg ‘delay of growing Asparagus from seed, can obtain plants either

Coe INN one or two years old at a very moderate price. Secure a

good, rich, deep, mellow soil, and set the plants with the roots
spread out naturally, just as a good gardener would arrange the roots of any tree or plant, and
so deep that the crown will be two to three inches below the surface. In removing weeds, be
careful not to injure the crowns. In the spring remove them only by hand. ‘The engravings
show a bunch of Asparagus as usually exposed for sale, a root of Asparagus with the young shoots
well started, some of them almost ready for cutting, and a branch of the plant at seeding time.
The roots, if procured in the spring, and in good condition, will show the buds or young shoots
an inch or two in length. ;

BEANS.

Beans are usually divided into two general classes, Dwarf and Pole Beans. The Dwarfs are
earlier and more hardy, as a general rule, than the running sorts. The Dwarfs are generally
used for string-beans
when the pods are ten-
der, and the climbers
only for shelling. We
have endeavored in the
engraving to show the
habit of both. Beans like
a dry and rather light
soil, though they will do
well in any garden soil if
not set out too early in
the spring. Nothing is
gained by planting until
the ground is tolerably
dry and warm. ‘The
Dwarf varieties grow
from twelve to eighteen | '
inches in height, need no
support, and are planted |,
either in drills or hills. *
The drills should be not
less than a foot apart, =
two inches deep, and the seed set in the drills from two to three inches apart. The usual method
in hills is to allow about four plants to a hill, and the hills two by three feet apart. Rows are
best for the garden. A quart of ordinary sized Beans is about fifteen hundred, and will sow
two hundred and fifty feet of row, or one hundred and fifty hills. Hoe well, but only when dry.
Running Beans should not be planted quite as early as the Dwarfs. The usual way of planting 1s
in hills, about three feet apart, with the pole in the center of the hill. A very good way is to
grow the running varieties in drills, using the tallest pea brush that can be secured conveniently.
When the plants reach the top of the brush, pinch off the ends. The effect will be to cause
greater fruitfulness below. Ina stiff soil, especially, the Lima comes up better if planted carefully

144

a oa
Aa at ==

with the eye down, the hill a little elevated. There are endless varieties of Dwarf Beans; as
nothing of the vegetable family is more inclined to sport. We have endeavored to show the
appearance of a few of the best sorts, when ripe. Figure 2 is Refugee; 3, Early China; 4, Early
Mohawk; 6, White Kidney; 7, White Marrowfat; 8, Early Valentine; 9, Early Rachel; 13,
Wax, or Butter —all Dwarfs. Fig. 5, London Horticultural; 10, Large Lima; 11, Concord;
12, Giant Wax —all Runners. The Scarlet Runner is the popular Snap Bean of England,
and the Dwarfs are only used early in the season, before the Runners can be obtained.

BORECOLE, or KALE.

The Borecoles, or as they are usually called, Kales, are not much grown in America, though
quite popular in many parts of Europe. They do not form heads like the Cabbage, but furnish
abundance of curly leaves, those of some varieties
being quite ornamental, their general character
being shown in the engraving. The Kales are
more hardy than the Cabbage, and will endure
considerable frost without injury, so they are often
allowed to remain in the ground until spring,
except in very severe climates, and are thus in
use during the winter. When cut frozen, they
are immediately placed in cold water. In north-
ern countries, they are taken up and stored in a
cold pit or cellar, and those not needed for winter
use are re-planted in spring,and make a new and
tender growth. The small variety, called Ger-
man Greens, is usually sown in the autumn, and
cut in spring and sold in the markets by measure,
somewhat like Spinach. The culture is the same
as for Cabbage. While we do not anticipate the
very general culture of Kale in America, as
in many sections of Europe, we think it well to
call the attention of our readers to this somewhat noted member of the Cabbage tribe.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

Brussels Sprouts is a very respectable member of the Cabbage family, and very nearly related
to the Kales. It has a strong stem, sometimes not less than four feet in height, though there is a
dwarf variety that never reaches more than half this height. A loose | .).i> a 4 5

I} 4g
° d a NEN Wi G
head of Cabbage surmounts the stem, and thus a circulation of sap ES 6 7" aA YO
° . ‘ . , / of yn NY ee GFR
is secured to the extremity, while below, commencing a few inches ( ft : i car = / ys
from the ground line, are numerous small heads like miniature Cab- it ‘yy ii
bages, so thick as almost to conceal the stem, and presenting the AY ee I va

appearance we have endeavored to show in the engraving. ‘These
heads are very tender and of good flavor. The culture is the same as
for Cabbage. If early plants are raised in a hot-bed, they will perfect
themselves in September, in the north, and a later sowing should
be made in the open ground, that will be in periection about the time
winter commences. These should be taken up and stored in a cool
cellar, like the Cauliflower, with the roots in earth where they will
remain fit for use during the winter. Where the winters are not very
severe, they may remain in the ground to be cut as needed, and in
such places the Brussels Sprouts are of the greatest value. In severe
climates — climates of great extremes of heat and cold — the Brussels
Sprouts, and some other members of the cabbage family, will never be
very successfully grown nor become very popular’; and yet, there are ti
some in every section who will think us over-cautious, and we would —— =—

not be surprised to receive a package of ‘‘ Sprouts”’ from the most unlikely place in the world, just
to prove that we are mistaken. The ability and perseverance of some persons will conquer all

difficulties, and this is our response, in advance.
145

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Ee SS SOG
LOK AL

BEETS.

The Beet is a favorite vegetable, and is exceedi

i
\

ngly valuable, being in use almost from the
time the seed-leaf appears above ground
until we are looking for its appearance the
next year. The seeds are in
little groups or clusters of cal-
yxes, as seen in the little en-
graving, so that each rounded %
cluster which we call a seed, really contains
from two to four true seeds. The conse-
quence is that the plants come up much
thicker than necessary, and must be thinned
out. There is nothing in the way of
“greens”? as good as these young Beets,
and the thinnings of the beds can be used
as needed, from the time the young plants
are two or three inches in length until they
are large enough for ordinary use. To pre-
serve the roots in fine condition during the
winter, take them up carefully before hard
frosts, and pack them in a cool cellar, and
cover with earth. For spring use they
may be pitted in the ground. The seeds
germinate more surely and rapidly if put in
warm water and allowed to soak for twenty-
four hours. The soil should be rich, mellow,
and deep. Plant in drills, about two inches
deep, and the rows about twelve or fifteen

inches apart. Set the seeds in the drills about two inches apart. An ounce of seed will sow

about seventy-five feet of drill, and five pounds are sufficient
for an acre. The varieties of Beets are very numerous, and

quite diversified in form and appearance, from the little
round, table, turnip-formed varieties, to the large, coarse
sorts, sometimes three feet in length, and fit only for cattle.
Figure 1 shows the Large Red Mangel, one of the best for
feeding to stock; fig. 2, the Early Blood Turnip, a very
smooth, pretty variety ; fig.
3, the Pine Apple, a com-
paratively new and good
dark variety; fig. 4, Bas-
sano, an old favorite, juicy
sort, tender and light col-
ored ; fig. 5, Dewing’s Tur-

a :
| KN nip, a week earlier than
ED gn Mi? Blood Turnip, — lighter
: \\ \\ al ID : $
\/ x \ Ve ve fleshed, and an excellent
We Mian’ variety; fig. 6, Carter’s

Orange Globe Mangel,
thought in England to be
the best round variety; fig.
7, the old and excellent
Long Blood. Red. The
\ Swess Chard, of which' we
iN show the leaves, is a vari-

| Wa i

ety of Beet cultivated for the broad leaf-stalks, which are cooked and served like Asparagus.
Plants should stand a foot or more apart in the rows, and the rows three feet, for field culture.

146

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CABBAGE.

The Cabbage requires a deep, rich soil and thorough working. If these requirements are met
and good seed planted, there is no difficulty in obtaining fine, solid heads. For early use, the

plants should be started in a hot-bed or cold-frame; but seed for winter Cabbage should be sown
in a seed-bed, early in the spring. Some gardeners prefer to grow plants for early spring Cab-
bage in a frame in the autumn, protecting them with boards or matting during the winter, but
without good care plants saved in this way often prove a loss. In a mild climate, plants may
not only be started in the autumn, but transplanted, and will make considerable growth during
the winter season. Some varieties seem to do best if the seed is sown in the hills where they

are to remain ; and this is particularly the case with the Marblehead varieties. Sow two or three

seeds where each plant is desired, and then pull up all but the strongest. The large varieties

require to be planted about three feet apart; the small, early sorts, from.a foot to eighteen inches.
147

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Always give Cabbage a deep, rich soil, and keep it mellow with plenty of manure. For early
winter use, store a few in a cool cellar. The main crop will be better kept out of doors, set in a
aa trench closely, head down, and covered with straw
a ‘i WAP and earth. There is almost an endless variety of
ay 8 ( Cabbage, and nearly all extensive growers have
\\ <i their favorite sorts. Some kinds seem to succeed
best in certain localities. "The Winningstadt, for
instance, which we have shown in figure 2, seems.
peculiarly adapted to the South. The Jersey
Wakefield is now, no doubt, the most popular
py early Cabbage (see fig. 1). Early Schweinfurth
(fig. 3), is a very large Cabbage, and matures
early, but we have never been able to grow solid

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F wf WT fl y! INKS Yy,) Yj: Cabbage, but re-

= tf ica Mi NN ). = quires a very rich

soil, early plant-
ing and good culture (fig. 4). Fig. 6 is the popular Premium Flat
Dutch, which is the old Flat Dutch somewhat improved, and of
American growth. Stone Mason Marblehead is represented by
fig. 7, and is an excellent winter Cabbage. Fig. 8 is the Drum-
head Savoy, a very tender, sweet Cabbage, very hardy, and
improved by a little frost. Figs. 5 and 10 are the Filderkraut,
one of the solidest and best Cabbages we are acquainted with ; SS
always heads, and as solid as any one can wish. We give two y
engravings of this fine variety, as the first was drawn from a —-%
specimen taken from our grounds when not fully matured.
There are several varieties of Pickling Cabbage, but the highest
colored and best is one we introduced several years since from
Europe, known as Chappell’s Red Pickling, (fig. 9).

COLLARDS, or what is now known as Collards, are merely young Cabbage plants. The usual
plan is to sow the seed in drills about half an inch deep, and a foot apart. When these plants
are a few inches in height, they are pulled. In the South, sowings can be made through the
winter every few weeks. A variety very popular at the South, and thought to be much better
than any of the common cabbages, is called Creole Collards.

CAULIFLOWER.

The most delicate and delicious of all the Cabbage family, is the Cauliflower. It is more
delicate and tender than the Cabbage, and therefore requires a more generous treatment. It
delights in a rich soil and
abundance of water, which it
would be well to apply artifi-
cially in a dry season. After
seeing the splendid cauliflower
2 growing around Erfurt, in
Prussia, and observing the
pains taken in its culture, I did
not wonder that we fail in our
hot, dry climate. Cauliflower
there is grown in low, swampy
= ground, which is thrown up in

wide ridges. The plants are
set on the ridges, and between
= = these are ditches of water.
Every dry day the water is bailed from these ditches upon the growing plants, and the result is
cauliflower of enormous size, compact, and almost as white as snow. The engraving will give a
148

pretty good idea of these cauliflower gardens, and the process of watering. In the ditches water
cress is grown, both for cutting and seed. Still, we must say that we have never seen or heard
of finer Cauliflower than is sometimes grown in
the South and West. The flower buds form a
solid mass of great beauty and delicacy, called
the “curd,” and its appearance is shown in the
engraving. This is rendered more delicate by
being protected from the sun, Break off one or
two of the leaves, and place them upon the
§ flower. Gardeners sometimes sow seed in the
y autumn, for early Cauliflower, and keep the
“plants over in frames; but by sowing the early
varieties in the spring, in a hot-bed or cold-frame,
or even in an open border, they can be obtained
in pretty good season. For late Cauliflower, sow
seed in a cool, moist place, on the north side
of a building or tight fence, in this latitude, about the first of May, and they will not be troubled
with the little black beetle, so destructive to everything of the Cabbage tribe when young. Do
not allow the plants to become crowded in the seed-bed. Transplant in moist weather, or
shade the newly set plants. In the autumn, plants which have not fully formed the “ flower,” or
“curd,” may be taken up and placed in a light cellar, with earth at the roots, and they will gene-
rally form good heads; or they may be hung up by the stems, head down, in a cool cellar, and
will do well.

A favorite European vegetable, BROcOLI, resembles the Cauliflower; indeed, it is hardly
possible to distinguish the two. The Brocoli, however, is the most hardy, and in portions of
Europe where the seasons are mild, remains in the ground all the winter, furnishing good heads
most of the cold season. Of course, in many sections of our country Brocoli would not suffer in
winter, but it dislikes severe summer heat more than cold; and to succeed, it would be neces-
sary to grow late plants, and set them out after the extreme heat of summer is past.

. CRESS.
The Cresses are excellent and healthful salad plants, of a warm, pungent taste, and are much
relished by almost every one, especially in the spring season. oy

When young and tender the whole plants are eaten, but when
older, the leaves only. Cress is often used with lettuce, and other
salad plants, and the Curled is very good for garnishing. Sow % oy
the seed in a hot-bed or in a sheltered spot in the garden, quite “\
thick, in shallow drills. In a short time it will be fit for cutting. _M)
Sow a little every week. The Water Cress is a great luxury to anh
most people, and cheaply obtained by those who live near fresh
water. Scatter a little seed in moist places on the edges of ponds
or brooks, and in the eddies of streams, and in a few years the
shallow water will be stocked with plants. The engraving with i

the large leaves shows a branch of Water Cress, and with the small leaves a plant of Curled Cress.

CORN SALAD.

Corn Salad is a favorite salad plant in some portions of Europe, and is much cultivated in
America by those who have become familiar with its use
across the sea. Its name is derived from the fact that it
is found abundantly growing in wheat fields. Sown in
August, and protected by leaves or straw during the win-
ter, it can be used in the spring very early. Sown in
April or May, it is very soon fit for use. The leaves are

sometimes boiled and served as spinach. It is very
= hardy. Sow as for lettuce, in rows, covering seed only
about a quarter of an inch. Thin out the plants so that
they will be three or four inches apart.

149

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CARROTS.

The Carrot should always be furnished with a good, deep, rich soil, and as free from stones
and lumps as possible; and if a rather light loam, it is better than if compact and heavy. It is
waste of time and labor to try to grow roots of any kind on a poor or unprepared soil. Seed
should be got in early,so as to have the benefit of a portion of the spring rains. We knew a part
of a field to be sown, when a long rain interrupting the operator, it was not resumed until after
the soil had become pretty dry, and no showers coming very soon, the first half sown pro-
duced an abundant crop, while the last was almost a failure. Sow in drills about an inch deep,

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the drills about a foot apart; and at thinning, the plants should be left at from four to ten inches
apart in the rows, according to kind. The Short Horn may be allowed to grow very thickly,
almost in clusters. ‘To keep roots for table use, place them in sand in the cellar; but for feed-
ing, they will keep well in a cellar, without covering, or buried in the ground, and any
desired for spring use may be pitted out of the way of frost. An ounce of seed will sow about
one hundred feet of drill, and two pounds is the usual quantity per acre. For field culture, of
course, the rows must be sufficiently distant to admit of running the cultivator between them.
The Carrot is mostly used in America for soups, and for this the smaller and finer varieties are
grown. ‘The Carrot is very nutritious and is relished by all animals. The engraving shows the
comparative size and habit of growth of most of the leading varieties. Figure 1, Long Orange; 2,
Orange Belgian Green-Top; 8, Early French Short-Horn; 4, White Belgian Green-Top; 5, Early
Very Short Scarlet ; 6, Half-Long Scarlet Stump-Rooted; 7, Altringham; 8, Half-Long Scarlet.

CHICORY.

Chicory is used in Europe as a salad plant. Seed is sown in the spring, in drills half an inch
deep, in a good, mellow soil; and the after culture is the same as for Carrots.
In the autumn, the plants will be ready for blanching. ‘This is generally
done by placing a box over them, or by tying the tops of the leaves loosely
together, and drawing the earth well up the plant. The greatest value of
Chicory is as a substitute for coffee. It has a root something like a parsnip.
They are washed clean, cut into pieces that will dry readily, kiln-dried, and
then they are ready to roast and grind for coffee. The prepared root is
brought from Europe, for the adulteration of coffee. An ounce of seed will
sow about one hundred feet of drill, and from two to three pounds are
required for an acre. The second season the Chicory sends up a flower stem @
three or four feet, bearing pretty, bright blue flowers, which we have shown
about half size in the engraving. It is so hardy there is danger it may
become a troublesome weed, as it flourishes on the road-sides and in meadows in many places.

150

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CELERY.

Celery is a luxury that few would like to dispense with, and fortunately there is no necessity

for such a sacrifice, as every one who has control of a few feet of ground, with a little skill and
industry, can grow a winter’s supply. To obtain good Celery, it is necessary that

/ the plants should be strong and well grown. Sow the seeds in a hot-bed or cold
aNW// ,frame. When the plants are about three inches in height, transplant to a nicely
3 If prepared bed in the border, setting them about four or five inches apart. When
i / some eight inches high, and good stocky plants, set them in the trenches — about
the middle of July is early enough. Too
2 pos aye many make trenches by digging out the top
Vale WAS soil, and only putting a few inches of mold at
y ‘A the bottom, and never obtain good Celery.

SN
py
yy The trenches should contain at least eighteen

y inches of good soil and well rotted manure,
in about equal portions. Take off all suckers
and straggling leaves at the time of trans-
planting. Earth up a little during the sum-
mer, keeping the leaf stalks close together,
so that the soil cannot get between them;
and during September and October earth up
well for blanching. Those who grow Celery
for market extensively do not use trenches,
but make the soil deep and rich, and plant
in rows, earthing up with the plow. The time
ww NN to take up Celery is just before hard frost.
—— Ly Dig a trench about the width of a spade and
a few inches deeper than the height of the Celery. The place selected must be high ground,
where no water will be at the bottom, and where surface » \
water will not drain into the trench. Take up the Celery <4 iy Z

with any dirt that may happen to adhere to the roots. Set YY
the stalks close together, and close to the sides of the trench, f
S Z

but do not press them in. After the trench is filled, place
pieces of board or scantling across it at intervals of five or —.\
six feet, one of these pieces being shown in the engraving. ‘39

»: ‘il
On these place boards, five or six feet long, covering the
entire trench. Then
cover the boards with a
good body of straw or
= leaves, with boards or
- earth on top to keep it
from blowing away. The
work is then completed.
When Celery is needed,
take up a length of
short boards, and remove
enough Celery to the cel-
lar to last a few days,
and place it in the cool-
Pe est part, covered with
earth. Replace the boards and covering as before. The dwarf Celeries are generally the
most solid, sweetest, and really the most profitable. The pink sorts are very pretty as a table
ornament, and as good as the white, though there seems to be a foolish prejudice against the
colored varieties in this country. The engravings show the general appearance of a well
grown Celery stalk, also of a variety called Boston Market, of a straggling habit. We also
show the Turnip-rooted Celery, the bulbous root only being eatable.
151

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CORN.

We need not consume time or space in speaking of the value of good Sweet Corn, nor of its
culture. Every sensible person knows the former, and every sane one the latter—at least so it
seems to us. A few remarks about varieties is all that will be necessary. The earliest good
Sweet Corn we are acquainted with is the Minnesota (fig. 1); following in about ten or twelve

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days, is Russell’s Prolific (fig. 2); Moore’s Early Concord (fig. 8) is in eating a week or so
after Russell’s, and Crosby’s Early (fig. 4) is in eating about the same time, perhaps a day or
two earlier. It is very thick, twelve or sixteen-rowed. Stowell’s Evergreen (fig. 5) is a mag-

nificent late variety, keeping in eating until frost, almost. There are many varieties of Parching
Corn ; one of them is shown in fig. 6, called the White Parching.

CUCUMBERS.

The hardiest varieties —in fact, all the American or common sorts — will produce a medium
and late crop, if the seed is sown in the open ground in
well prepared hills, as soon as the soil becomes sufficiently
warm. In this latitude it is useless to plant in the open
ground until nearly the first of June. Make rich hills of
well rotted manure, two feet in diameter —a large shovel-
ful of manure, at least, to each hill—and plant a dozen or
more seeds, covering half an inch deep. When all danger
from insects is over, pull up all but three or four of the
strongest plants. The middle of June is early enough to
plant for pickling. Make the hills about six feet apart.
For early Cucumbers, the hot-bed is necessary; but the
simplest and surest way to produce a tolerably early crop
of the best kinds is, where it is designed to place a hill,
dig a hole about eighteen inches deep and three feet
across; into this put a barrow of fresh manure, and cover
with a small box-like frame, on the top of which place a
couple of lights of glass. When the plants grow, keep the earth drawn up to the stems. Water,
and give air as needed; and if the sun appears too strong, give the glass a coat of whitewash.
By the time the plants fill the frame, it will be warm enough to let them out, and the box can be

152

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removed ; but if it should continue cold, raise the box by setting a block under each corner, and
Jet the plants run under. The Fourth of July is the time we always remove the boxes or frames.
Always pick the fruit as soon as large enough, as allowing
any to remain to ripen injures the fruiting of the vine. One
pound of seed is sufficient for an acre. ‘There are not very
many varieties of hardy Cucumbers. Fig. 1 is Improved
Long Green, the largest of American sorts, and one of the
best; fig. 2, Early Frame, a good variety for table, and for
pickling when small; fig. 3, Early White Spine, an excel-
lent sort for table, a great favorite, and forces well; fig. 4,
Early Russian, small, very productive, and the earliest of
ali; fig. 5, Early Green Cluster, next in earliness to the
Russian, generally grows in pairs, quite productive and
esteemed for pickles. There are very many foreign varie-
ties of very-great size and beauty, and of excellent quality,
and their general appearance is shown in the annexed
engraving. They range in length from eighteen inches to
more than two feet, and, when well grown, as straight as anarrow. They are called frame vari-
ties, because much cultivated in frames or under glass. Some cf the hardiest do well in Amer-
ica, if coaxed a little early in the season under boxes covered with glass, as recommended for

WTS 5

our hardy sorts. The Long Green Southgate and the Stockwood we have found the best for the
garden in this latitude, but in the South we have no doubt all would succeed admirably. Some
persons think because these foreign sorts are large, that they are coarse and scarcely eatable.
This is a mistake. They are fine-grained and very solid, having very few seeds, sometimes not
more than half-a-dozen perfect seeds in a fruit. Seed, therefore, is always scarce and dear.

EGG PLANT.

A tender plant, requiring starting in the hot-bed pretty early to mature its fruit in the North-
ern States. The seed may be sown with tomato seed; but more care is necessary at transplant-
ing, to prevent the plants being chilled by the
change, as they seldom fully recover. Hand-
glasses are useful
for covering at the
time of transplant-
ing. Those who
have no_ hot-bed
can sow a few seeds
in boxes in the
house. There are
various modes of /#f
cooking, but the {fill
most common is to
cut in slices, boil in
salt and water, and
then fry in batter or
butter. | There are several varieties, but the largest and best of all is the Improved New York
Purple, an engraving of which we give. The Early Long Purple is the earliest, and valuable on
that account, and about eight or nine inches in length. There is an early round variety
called Round Purple, and there are several very pretty sorts more ornamental than useful.

155

KOHL RABI.

Intermediate between the Cabbage and the Turnip we have this singular vegetable. The
stem, just above the surface of the ground, swells into a bulb something like a Turnip, as shown
in the engraving. Above this are the leaves, somewhat resembling
those of the Ruta Baga. The bulbs are served like Turnips, and are
very delicate and tender when young, possessing the flavor of both

\ uy Turnip and Cabbage, to some extent. In Europe they are exten-
\ e sively grown for stock, and are thought to keep better than the
Wii l

) Turnip, and impart no unpleasant taste to milk. Seed sown for
WA a general crop, in the spring, like the Turnip, in drills; or may be
_ transplanted like Cabbage. For winter table use, sow middle of
== June. One advantage claimed for the Kohl Rabi is that it suffers less
= from severe drouth than the Turnip, and therefore a crop is almost
certain. This being so, it must be well adapted to culture in many sections of our country.

LETTUCE.
Lettuce is divided into two classes; the Cadéage, with round head and broad, spreading
leaves; and the Cos, with long head and upright, narrow leaves. The Cabbage varieties are
the most tender and buttery,

and the Cos the most crisp and : yy \ i Kr Mi 7; NY
refreshing. In Europe, the Cos V By Ni \ IS CSS : Yh om

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varieties are used very gener-
ally. They are the most
liked by dealers, because they
will carry better and keep longer
in good condition than the Cab-
bage sorts. There are several
varieties with loose, curled
leaves, having the habit of
the Cabbage, though not form-
ing solid heads, and are very
pretty for garnishing, but other-
wise not equal to the plain sorts.
Seed sown in the autumn will
come in quite early in the
spring, but not early enough to &
satisfy the universal relish for JS
early salad. The hot-bed, there-
fore, must be started quite early.

Give but little heat, and plenty
of air and water on fine days. Sow a couple of rows thick, in the front of the frame, to be used

when young —say two inches in height. Let the plants in the rest of the bed be about three
inches apart, and, as they become thick, remove every alternate one. Keep doing so, as required,
and the last will be as large as Cabbages. Sow in the open ground as early as possible; or, if
you have plants from fall sowing, transplant them to a rich soil, giving plenty of room and hoe
well. We give engravings showing the appearance of the Cabbage, Cos and Curled varieties.

ms ay

MARTYNIA.

The Martynia is a hardy annual plant of robust growth, and some of the varieties are some-
what grown as flowering plants, as will be seen by reference
to page 76. M. proboscidea produces its curious seed-pods,

tender, aré prized by a good many for pickling. They
should be gathered before getting fibrous or “stringy.”
A little experience will soon make the matter of selecting easy.

154

~ i Se S

=e shown in the engraving, quite abundantly, and these, when |

a ae

OS,

MELON.

Those who have their homes a little further South than Rochester, in Maryland, Delaware,
Virginia, and in most of our Western and all Southern States, enjoy a luxury in the Melon crop
of which many Northern people have but little idea. We once very much astonished some kind
friends in England because we preferred well ripened English Gooseberries to some Melons that
had been procured for our special benefit; but which, though softer, were not much richer than

Pumpkins. The Melon, being a plant of tropical origin, reaches perfection only in a warm tem-
perature, though by a little care in securing a warm, sandy soil, a sheltered, sunny position, and
a little skill in starting plants early, fair crops are grown in what would be considered unfavorable
localities. In this latitude we must give the Melon every possible advantage to secure earliness
and thorough ripening. The same culture as recommended for Cucumbers will insure success.
The striped bug is the great enemy of the Melon and other vines, and the best safeguard is gauze
protectors of any simple form that can be easily and cheaply made. There are two distinct
species of Melon in cultivation, the Musk Melon and the Water Melon. Our engravings show a
few of the leading varieties. Musk MELON— Fig. 1, Nutmeg; 2, White Japanese; 3, Casaba;
4, Prolific Nutmeg. WATER MELON — Fig. 5, Black Spanish; 6, Mountain Sweet; 7, Citron,
for preserves.

MUSTARD.

Young Mustard is used as a salad early in the spring, with Cress, Lettuce, and other salad
plants. It can be grown in hot-beds as early as desired, and in the spring, being very hardy, can
be sown as soon as the soil is free from frost. Sow in shallow drills,
and cut when a few inches in height. It grows very rapidly; but little
will be needed, and several sowings should be made at intervals. For
a crop of seed sow in early spring, in rows, thin out the plants to six

culture, and for field far enough for the cultivator. The Chinese is the
best for Salad, and the Black-seeded is usually preferred for commerce,
being stronger than the White; but the White is chosen by many on account of its mildness, and

is the kind recommended for medicinal purposes.
155

ONIONS.

The Onion must have a clean and very rich soil, or it will not do well enough to pay for the
trouble. Use well rotted manure freely, and be sure to get the seed in as early as possible in
the spring, no matter if it is ever so cold and unpleasant, for if Onions do not get a good
growth before hot, dry weather, the crop is sure to be a failure; then thin out early, and

keep the soil mellow and clear of weeds, and if your seed is good, you will have a large crop
of Onions. On no other conditions can you

hope for success. The Onion is very sensitive,
and it won’t do to slight it in the least. Sow
in shallow drills, not less than a foot apart.
When the young Onions are three or four
inches high, thin so that they will stand about
two inches or more apart, according to kind.
Disturb the roots of Onions as little as pos-
sible, either in thinning or hoeing, and never
hoe earth toward them to cover, or hill, as we do
most other things. Four pounds of seed are suf-
cient for an acre. American Onions are quite
different from those of Europe; they are generally smaller, with a finer neck, bulb much more
freely, are stronger, less sweet, and much better keepers. Our little engraving shows the lead-
ing native sorts reduced to quite one-sixth natural size. Figure 1, Wethersfield Red; fig. 2,
Early Red; 8, Danvers Yellow; 4, Large Yellow; 5, White Portugal, which is a foreign sort
so hybridized or acclimated as to become a native.

As before intimated, while the European varieties of Onions lack a great many of the good
qualities belonging to the ‘native Americans,” they possess some peculiar to themselves, and
which certainly entitle them to favorable notice. They are mild, sweet, and large. It is no
strange sight to see peasants eat for their dinner, with brown bread alone, and with apparent relish,
an onion that would weigh a pound. These foreign Onions seem to succeed pretty well in the
South. We thought it best to give engravings of a few of the leading sorts. Fig. 6 represents
the Large Strasburg ; 7, Large Oval Madeira; 8, Large Round Madeira; 9, White Lisbon; 10,
Silver-Skinned, the favorite sort for pickles.

For several years past there has been a good deal of excitement among the seedsmen and
gardeners of Europe, respecting some new Italian Onions of monstrous size, and very mild; supe-
rior flavor. Being in Europe when these Onions were attracting considerable attention, we saw
some of them weighing as much as four pounds, and had the best of evidence of their fine
flavor. We obtained seed and sent it all over the country, particularly to the South, for trial.
The reports were generally favorable. The larger kinds, and they are the best, are wonderful in
size, beautiful in appear- | .
ance, sweet, and of
pleasant flavor, and ex-
cellent for summer, au-
tumn and early winter
use. The engravings
represent the principal
kinds, very much re-
duced, but show the
comparative size and |
form. Fig, 11, New
Giant Rocca, of Naples,
one) Fonwthe "peste a2. FOREIGN ONIONS.

Blood Red Italian Tripoli; 18, Large White Flat Italian Tripoli, one of the best; 14, Marzajola,
verv early, but not as large or showy as the others.

To those in the North who would secure a good crop of these Onions— and in fact, to all
who have difficulty in growing a crop from seed early — we advise the following plan: Sow the
seed thickly in rows in a hot-bed early. When severe weather is over and the glass is
wanted for other purposes, i: will not be needed for the Onions, as they are pretty hardy.

156

AMERICAN ONIONS.

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Keep the weeds down, and about the time for sowing Onion seed, transplant these Onions

to the open ground, giving them a rich soil and plenty of room. Every one will form a large
bulb, and very early.

The hot-bed work and
transplanting will be
some trouble, but the
troublesome hoeing and
hand-weeding and thin-
ning of young Onions
will be avoided, which
all Onion growers know
is no small labor. We
hope many of our read-
ers will try a few in this
way, at least, as we
have pursued ihis course of culture for some years with the most gratifying results. It is doubt-
less known to most of our readers that it has been considered difficult to grow Onions from
seed at the South, because the warm weather checks their growth before bulbs are formed.
‘The hot-bed plan suggested we think will remedy this evil, but the one usually pursued
is to plant what is called OnIoN Sets. These are small Onions, about the size of large
peas. The seed is sown in the spring in broad rows, in a poor soil, and very thick, where
they have not space to make a fair growth. About twenty-eight pounds of seed are sown to
the acre. The result is a large quantity of stunted Onions, that are taken up in July and dried
thoroughly on the ground. They are then stored away to be :

sold for planting the following spring. These, when planted in
the spring, produce good Onions, and are used extensively in
the South. It is, of course, a good deal of labor to raise a
bushel of these little Onions, and they generally sell at high
prices, from $10 to $15 a bushel.

Another Onion very largely grown by those who cannot suc-
ceed with seed, or who want early green Onions, is the ENGLISH
PoTATO ONION, which is the best underground variety. A large
Onion produces, the first season, under ground, a large cluster
of Onions, like that shown in the engraving, but the size is POTATO ONION,
reduced. Many of them, with good culture, will be half the size of ordinary Onions. These are
put out in the spring, and very early they are ready for use as summer Onions, and are a great
favorite with market gardeners. It is this sort that is usually sold in bunches in the markets.
Those that are allowed to remain in the ground during the summer make very large bulbs,
to be sold or re-planted the next spring for small Onions. They are rather poor keepers, and the
practice here is to spread them on the floor of a barn-loft and cover with straw, where they will
freeze and keep frozen all the winter. They will then be in pretty good condition, but if kept in
a warm place they must be turned every day, or they will rot, as they will if subjected to fre-
quent freezing and thawing. If they were good keepers they would be very popular. The
price is always high, generally about $5 a bushel.

Another variety not so good or so popular as Potato Onion, is
the Top Onion. When large Onions of this sort are planted,
each one sends up a strong stem, just like the seed-stem of the com-
mon Onion, but instead of bearing on its top a number of seeds
it produces a cluster of small Onions, just as we show in the engrav-
. ing. Next spring these small Onions are planted, and each one pro-
BY duces a full sized Onion. They can be eaten during the summer,
and are often sold in bunches, or they can be kept for winter use for
spring planting. Each of these large Onions, of course, produces
a cluster of small ones after a season’s growth. Onion culture has
become such an important interest, throughout our country, and in fact, throughout the civilized
world, that we thought it important to give pretty thorough information on this subject.

157

NEW ITALIAN ONIONS.

TOP ONIONS.

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OKRA.

This vegetable is a native of the West Indies, though now grown in almost all warm coun.
R44 CZ aN 3 tries. _Its green seed- pods are used in soups, to which
VLE ESE SWE they give a jelly-like consistency, as they abound in
MINS) mucilage, like all of the Mallow family. It is consid-

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‘. ered very nutritious, and exceedingly grateful to stomachs
: ae not over-strong. The common name South is Gumbo.
It is of the easiest possible culture, and bears well. North
it would be best to sow the seeds in hot-beds, and trans-
plant, except in favored localities. There are two varie-
ties generally grown, known as dwarf and tall. The
Okra is a vigorous, large plant, requiring a good deal of
room, and the large kind should be planted not less than
three feet apart, and the dwarf about eighteen inches. In
mild climates it is only necessary to sow the seed in the open
ground, about two inches deep, and then merely keep the
ground clean and mellow, as for a hill of corn. We have
grown good Okra here by sowing in the open ground early in May, in a warm exposure and soil.

PARSLEY.

Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and therefore is in use two seasons, but about the middle of
the second summer it goes to seed, so that sow-
ings must be made every second year. Pars-
ley seed germinates very slowly; it should
be started in a hot-bed, if possible. For out-
door sowing always prepare the seed by
placing in quite hot water and allowing it
to soak for twenty-four hours, in a warm
place. When the plants are a few inches
in height, set them in rows, three or four
inches apart. Parsley makes a pretty edging
for the walks of the vegetable garden. As
but little generally is needed, if sown in the
garden in rows, it will be only necessary
to thin out and destroy the surplus plants.
Parsley is a universal favorite for soups,
and for garnishing there is nothing so good
as some of the best kinds. Indeed, it has
been recommended and used for bouauets; ie
but one poor gardener tried it only once, for he was coolly informed by the lady that she
wished a bouquet for the parlor, and not herbs for the kitchen.

PUMPKINS.

The Pumpkin is now but little used, except for agricultural purposes, the Squashes being so
—— much sweeter and drier and finer grained. No good gar- —
dener, we think, would tolerate a pumpkin in the garden,
nor would any sensible cook allow one in the kitchen.
Those monster kinds that we see occasionally at our fairs
are the worst of all. The farmer, however, finds the Pump-
\ kin a very serviceable addition to his fall feed, and probably
} as long as Maize is grown in America the golden Pumpkin
J will gild our corn-fields in the beautiful Indian summer days
of autumn. After all, a good many will think what we say
== of the Pumpkin all nonsense, and perhaps it is. We shall
ee not certainly disagree about so small a matter as a Pumpkin,
and some persons will always defend the good old-fashioned pumpkin pie, against all innovators.
158

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PARSNIPS.

The Parsnip flourishes best, and gives the longest, largest, smoothest roots in a very deep, rich
soil—one that has been made rich with manure the previous year. Manure, especially if fresh,
makes the roots somewhat ill-shaped. Sow as early in the spring as the ground can
B be made ready, in drills, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, and about an inch
~deep. ‘Thin the plants to five or six inches apart. An ounce of seed will sow one
hundred and fifty feet of drill very thickly. Six pounds of seed is the usual quantity
sown on anacre. ‘The part of the crop required for spring use can remain in the
ground during the winter. Ifa portion is covered heavily with leaves, they can be
dug at any time. A few can be stored in a pit or cellar. For feeding cattle, no root
is superior to the Parsnip. In the Island of Guernsey, a few years ago, and perhaps
the same state of things still exists, pigs and cattle were almost or entirely fattened on
this root. We have always thought that American farmers did not realize the value
of this root. In field culture it would be advisable to make the rows wider apart, so
as to admit the cultivator one way. Although from the ease with which corn is
grown, particularly in the Western States, it has been thought that there is no great
necessity for the culture of roots in this country, we have no doubt that their more
general growth would be of material advantage in many ways, especially in the older
sections of the country. Animals always thrive better, and are more healthy on a
somewhat mixed diet in which roots form an important part. This fact our best
farmers are fast learning. As the Parsnip is not injured by frost it seems well
adapted to general culture. Every one who visits any of the agricultural exhibitions of Canada,
must notice the great attention given to root culture in that country, as shown by the quantity
and quality of those exhibited. There are several varieties of Parsnips, but we have found little
difference, and the old Hollow Crown seems as good as any. Roots that are allowed to remain
in the ground during the winter are better flavored than those dug in the fall. As the roots go
very deep, and seem to have an unusually firm hold of the soil, if they are carelessly dug more
than half will be broken, which is a great injury to the crop.

PEPPERS.

There are perennial shrubby or woody Peppers, and very beautiful plants they are when seen
growing in their tropical homes. What we cultivate is an annual species, from India. The pod or
fruit is in demand in every kitchen, and _
very large quantities are grown to supply
our large cities and the manufacturers of
pickles, and it is used somewhat freely in
medicine. Sow the seeds early under
glass, if possible, and transplant only when
the weather has become steadily mild. If }
no hot-bed is to be had, prepare a seed-
bed in a warm place in the garden, and
sow, in the Middle and Northern States,
in May, and transplant when the plants are
about three inches in height. As usually

only a few plants are needed, it is well to
sow the seeds where the plants are to
remain, and thin them out to about a foot
apart. The fruit is often used green, but
will be ripe in September. There are sev-
eral varieties, ranging in height from one to
three feet, while the fruit varies from the
Little Cayenne to the great French Monstrous, six inches in length. Fig. 1 shows Long Red;
2, Cayenne; 8, Tomato-formed; 4, Monstrous, or Grossum. ‘The Large Bell, and several other
large sorts, differ little from the Tomato-formed, but larger. The Sweet Mountain, or Mam-
moth, is very large, mild, with thick flesh, and is pickled, stuffed like mangoes. The engraving
shows Cayenne of natural size; all others are very much reduced.

159

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PEAS.

The Pea is very hardy, and will endure a great amount of cold, either in or above the ground ;
and as we all want “green peas”’ as early as possible in the season, they should be put in as early
as the soil can be got ready —the sooner the better. Peas are divided by seedsmen and gar-
deners into three classes, Larly, Second Early and Late. ‘The earliest are mostly small, round,
smooth and hardy, the tallest not growing more than
from two to three feet in height. Of late years some
very fine dwarf, sweet, wrinkled sorts, like Little Gem,
have been added to this class, of very great merit. The
Second Early contain a list of excellent wrinkled varie-
ties, like Eugenie. The Lave are large, mostly wrink-
led, and formerly were nearly all tall, like the Cham-
pion of England, but very many excellent dwarfs have
been added to the list, like Yorkshire Hero. If the
Larlest sorts are planted about the first of April, in this
latitude, they will be fit to gather in June, often quite
early in the month. The Second will come in about the
Fourth of July. By sowing two or three varieties of
Larly,and the same of Second and Late, as soon as
practicable in the spring, a supply will be had from
early in June to late in July, with only one sowing.
After this Sweet Corn will be in demand. Sow in drills
not less than four inches deep, pretty thickly — about a
pint to forty feet. The drills should not be nearer than
two feet, except for the lowest sorts. Those growing
three feet high, or more, should not be nearer than
three or four feet. As they are early off the ground,
Cabbage can be planted between the rows, or the space
can be used for Celery trenches. All varieties growing
three feet or more in height should have brush for their
support. The large, fine wrinkled varieties are not as
hardy as the small sorts, and if planted very early, should
have a dry soil, or they are liable to rot. Keep well
hoed up and stick early. When grown extensively for
market, Peas do well sown on ridges made by the plow,
two rows on each ridge, and not sticked, the pea vines
drooping into the furrows. In response to the inquiry
so often made, why we cannot sow Peas late, and thus
have them in eating all through the summer, and why
Peas are “‘ buggy,” we will say that the Pea delights in
a cool, moist climate, and suffers in warm, dry weather. Those planted late will most likely be
attacked with mildew, and never give half a crop. The Pea, when grown ina tolerably mild
climate, is troubled with a weevil, the egg being laid in the pea when it is very small, through
the pod. The way to obtain sound Peas for seed, is to grow them where the weevil does not exist. —

RHUBARB.

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sionally persons prefer to grow from seeds.
It will take two years to obtain a strong plant
from seed, but a package of seeds in two
years will give enough plants to stock a neigh-
borhood. Give a good, rich, deep, mellow |
soil, both to seeds and plants. In the spring, two weeks before frost is gone, cover two of the
finest roots with barrels. Then throw over the roots and around the barrels leaves, straw or
manure, and the earliest and tenderest stalks will be the result.

160

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RADISHES.

Radishes are divided into two classes, Spring and Winter, or as denominated in some of the
books, Swmmer and Autumn. The Spring varieties are much smaller than the Winter, tender,
arrive at maturity in a very brief time,
and very soon become over-grown and
worthless. The winter sorts mature
>more slowly, are large, very solid, and
with proper care keep a long time.

The SPRING RADISH must make a
rapid growth to be fit for use; it will
then be crisp and tender, and of mild
flavor. If grown slowly, it will be hard,

fibrous, and disagreeably pungent. For
early use, seed should be sown in the
hot-bed, in drills four or five inches apart
and half an inch deep. Thin out the
young plants ‘so that they will stand two
inches apart in the rows. Give plenty of
hight and air, or they will become drawn
—that is, slender and worthless. For
out-door ,beds, select a warm, sunny loca-
tion, with a sandy soil. A little new
earth from the woods, as a top-dressing,
before the seeds are sown, will be of
great service. A top-dressing of soot, or
even coal ashes, will be of much benefit, as we have found by long experience. The great point
is to get the plants to grow rapidly after the seed-leaf
appears above ground, so as to be out of the way of the
black beetle that proves So troublesome when they are
young, puncturing every leaf. Sow soot, ashes, or
dust over them frequently, as the beetle dislikes gritty
food. Our engraving shows a few of the leading vari-
ties, fig. 1 representing Red Turnip; 2, Rose Olive-
Shaped; 8, Scarlet Olive-Shaped, with white tip; 4,
Long White Naples, an excellent variety for growing
late in the season; 5, Long Scarlet Short-Top.

The WINTER RADISH should be sown in July or
August, about the time of Turnip sowing. They may
be kept in a cool cellar and covered with earth for
winter use. Put them in cold water for an hour before
using. The engraving represents the principal varie-
ties of winter Radishes — indeed, all worthy of culture.
These Radishes are every year becoming more pop-
ular, and particularly so since the introduction of the
newer Chinese varieties; though for that matter we
are indebted to China for all our Radishes. Fig. 6 is
the California Mammoth White Winter, a splendid
variety which we saw in San Francisco, more than a foot in length, and as crisp and tender as
one could desire; it was brought to California by Chinese emigrants. Fig. 7, Chinese White
Winter; 8, Black Round Spanish; 9, Chinese Rose Winter.

SALSIFY, or OYSTER PLANT.
A delicious vegetable. Cut into small pieces, it makes a fine soup, like that from oysters. It
is also par-boiled, grated fine, made into small
balls, dipped into batter, and fried. Culture

same as for Carrots and Parsnips.
161

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SQUASHES.

The Squashes are an interesting and useful class of vegetables; interesting because present-:
ing such a variety of forms; of their usefulness we need not say a word. The Squashes are
of tropical origin, and
therefore it is useless to
plant them until the soil
is quite warm, and all
danger of frost or cold
nights is over; and as
they make a very rapid
growth there is no neces-
sity of haste in getting
the seed in the ground.
| i] We usually divide the
ma | ¥ Squashes into two
\\ \\ / classes, Summer and
N Winter. The SUMMER
\\\ SQUASHES are eaten
when the rind and flesh
are tender, about mid-
summer, The best jof
this class are the Crook-
Neck and Scollop, and
these are what are called
bush varieties, and do
not run. The WINTER
SQUASHES are allowed to ripen thoroughly before gathering, and are then stored away for winter
use. ‘A good, cool cellar will preserve these winter Squashes until May, if well ripened. The
winter varieties are all runners, we believe. The best winter Squash is the Hubbard, fig. 1,
and if pure and well ripened, and decently cooked, it is almost as good as a Sweet Potato.
Fig. 2 represents the Marblehead, another excellent winter Squash, ;
but we think hardly equal to the Hubbard. Fig. 8, Scollop, or Pie-

formed, a good sort,
and liked by market
gardeners, because €
the rind is somewhat
hard, and it bears
shipping well. Fig.
4 is the excellent =a
summer Crook-Neck, one of the best, if not the best, ce of Summer Squashes.
Squashes are good feeders, and like a rich soil; it is best to manure in the hill. Sow a dozen
seeds in each hill, and when danger from “bugs ’”’ is over pull up all but three or four. A mel-
low, warm soil is best. For bush sorts, make hills three or four feet apart, and for the running

kinds twice this distance.

SPINACH.

To grow Spinach in perfection, the soil must be rich. Sow in the autumn for spring use, in
good drained soil, in drills a foot apart. As soon as the plants are well
up, thin them to about three inches
apart in the rows. Covering with a
little straw or leaves before winter is
useful but not necessary. For sum-
mer use, sow as early as possible in
the spring. There are two popular
varieties, the principal distinction being that one has a round seed, and the other with sharp
points, and called prickly. These we have shown in the engraving.
162

TOMATOES.

The Tomato is more generally used in America than in any country in the world. The
amount consumed seems wonderful, especially when we consider how brief the time since its first
introduction as an article of diet. Almost every one likes it, and most persons regard it as a
great luxury; but the Tomato is so slow perfecting its fruit that it is quite after the middle of
summer, and at the end of most people’s patience, before the ripened fruit can be enjoyed. To

ties advertised as two weeks earlier than any other kind, that are entirely worthless in all respects,
not even having the merit of earliness. We are satisfied that Hubbard’s Curled Leaf is the ear-
liest Tomato grown, and this is its only merit, for it is small and far from being smooth. The
plant is small and will bear close planting, the leaves curling as if wilted. Gen. Grant is an
excellent early Tomato, about ten or twelve days later than the Curled Leaf, but Hathaway’s
Excelsior is as early as Gen. Grant, and the best Tomato we are acquainted with. It received a
certificate of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society of England, is pronounced by the press
of Europe the best variety produced, and is everywhere popular. It is smooth, solid, of good
flavor, excellent color and productive. Pinching off a portion of the side branches, and stopping
others beyond where the fruit is formed, hastens the ripening very much. To obtain plants early,
sow seed in the hot-bed early in March. In about five weeks they should be transplanted to
another hot-bed, setting them four or five inches apart. Here they should remain, having all the
air possible, and becoming hardened, until about the middle of May, when they may be put out
in the ground; that is, if there is no danger of frost. Very good plants can be grown in boxes
in the house, starting them even in the kitchen. Those, of course, who live in a southern clime
will be spared a good deal of this care. The soil for early Tomatoes should not be too rich, and
a warm, sheltered location selected, if possible. The Tomato may be made very pretty by train-
ing on a fence or trellis, like a grape-vine. No plant will better bear trimming. We have tested
hundreds of varieties of Tomatoes in our grounds during the past ten years. Every season we
put on trial every new kind we can obtain from any source, and feei quite competent to speak on
the subject. Still, we can judge well of the influence of soil and climate only as we receive
reports from our friends in different sections of the country.

The engraving, fig. 1, represents the Cherry Tomato, useful only for pickling; 2, Persian Yel-
low; 3, Hathaway; 4, Gen. Grant; 5, Early Smooth Red; 6, Curled Leaf. All are, of course,
very much reduced in size, though very well representing the form and characteristics of each.

168

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TORNIPS.

There are two quite distinct species of Turnips grown, one called the English Turnip, and
the other the Swede, or Ruta Baga Turnip. As they require somewhat different treatment,
serious mistakes are some-
times made on that point.
In ordering seeds, care
should be taken to state
which kind is desired.
The English Turnip, if
designed for early use,
should be sown soon as the
ground can be prepared
in the spring, so as to
have the benefit of early
showers, for the Turnip
will not grow in dry, hot
weather. For the main
crop, for fall and winter
use, sow in August, and
the plants will have the
benefit of the autumn
rains. If the weather
should prove dry, the crop

eee ae will be light. The soil
for Turnips should be rich and mellow. Sow in drills, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, and
half an inch deep. When the plants are a few inches in height, and strong enough to resist the
attack of insects, thin them out to some five or six inches apart in the drills. Two pounds of
seed are sufficient for an acre.
Fig. 1 represents the Strap-
Leaved Purple-Top; 2, Orange
Jelly; 38, Yellow Malta; 5,
Jersey Navet; 7, White Nor-
folk.

The SwEpDE, or RuTA BAGA
TURNIPS are large, very solid,
perhaps the most solid vegeta-
ble that grows. The flesh of
nearly all the varieties are yel-
low. They do not grow as
rapidly as the English Turnips,
and should be sown as early as
the first of June. The rows
should be about eighteen inches RIN ili et ky
apart, and the plants in the ;
rows not less than ten inches. The engravings show, fig. 4, Carter’s Imperial Purple-Top; fig.
6, Green-Top. We do not suppose that a warm, dry climate will ever be considered favorable
to Turnip culture, and yet we never saw better crops in the most favored districts of England
than we have seen in America. It is only in exceptionally dry seasons that our crop fails, with
good culture. A soil rich in phosphates is necessary fora large crop, hence all bone manures
are exceedingly valuable. With proper Turnip food and a moist season success is almost certain.
There is then only one enemy to be conquered. The little black flea, or Turnip beetle, is very
destructive when the plants are in the seed-leaf, but with a fair season and a rich soil the plants
are soon in the rough leaf, when they are troubled no longer. Some good farmers sow twice the
usual quantity of seed, and in this way save plenty from the little enemy, and this, we have no
doubt, is the safest and most economical way, for it is better to feed them on plants that we do not

need than on those upon which the crop depends.
164

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SWEET AND POT HERBS.

A few fragrant, or, as they are sometimes called, Sweet or Pot Herbs, constitute a little
treasury upon which the house-keeper will find occasion to make almost constant drafts, and
these will be honored from, early summer until autumn. A good reserve can also be stored
in some closet or store room for winter use. Asa general rule it is best to cut herbs when in
flower and dry in the shade, and they dry more evenly and in better shape if tied up in small

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BORAGE. THYME. SUMMER SAVORY. ROSEMARY.

bunches and hung in the shade. For soups and dressing for poultry these herbs are a necessity
in the estimation of most persons, while as domestic medicines several kinds are held in high
repute. The Sage and its uses, of course, every one is acquainted with. The Broad-leaved
English is the best. Zhyme, is of universal cultivation, as is also Summer Savory. Rosemary
is a very fragrant herb, and is everywhere popular. Sorage is a beautiful plant, with azure blue
flowers, pretty enough for any flower garden. It is much used in Europe for flavoring Claret and
other wines. We give a list of the herbs generally cultivated and prized, either by the cook or
the nurse.

Anise, Cumin, Marjoram, Sweet, Savory, Winter,
Balm, Dill, Rosemary, Thyme, Broad-Leaved
Basil, Sweet, Fennel, Large Sweet, Rue, English,

Borage, Horehound, Saffron, Thyme, Summer,
Caraway, Hyssop, Sage, Thyme, Winter,
Coriander, Lavender, Savory, Summer, Wormwood.

A very small space in the garden will give all the herbs needed in any family. The culture
is very simple, and the best way is to make a little seed-bed in the early spring, and set the

LAVENDER. HYSSOP. SWEET MARJORAM. SWEET BASIL.
plants out as soon as large enough ina bed. The trouble, therefore, is trifling, while the expense
is comparatively nothing, as a paper of either can be obtained for five cents, and will contain
more seeds than any one will be likely to need. In a mild climate some kinds will live over the
winter, but they are so easily grown from seed that saving old plants is not of much consequence.
165

nee

LEEK.

The Leek is a vegetable not much grown in America, except by market gardeners in the
neighborhood of large cities. It is of the Onion family, and partakes alike of its flavor and
fragrance, but never forms a rounded bulb. The Leek has the appearance of what
_is known as “ scallions’? among Onions. The long, thick neck or tunicated bulb,
when well grown and blanched, is white for several inches, and nearly to the leaves,
and this is used for flavoring soups, and is sometimes served as Asparagus. The
seed is generally sown in the spring in a seed-bed, and the young plants trans-
planted about the first of July, or after an early crop of Lettuce or Peas have been
taken from the ground. The Leek requires earthing up so as to let as much of the
stem blanch as possible. Some growers plant in shallow trenches. It is not neces-
sary to transplant, as the seed can be sown in rows and thinned out, as for Onions,
| and then earthed up. The Leek requires a rich, clean soil. In mild climates the
Leek may be allowed to remain in the ground all winter, to be gathered as needed;
but in cold climates they are taken up and stored, like Celery, for winter and spring
use. The Leek will bear 20 degrees of frost without injury. At transplanting set
the plants rather deep. The demand for this seed has been so small that we have several times
omitted it from our list. The engraving shows the appearance of the Leek with the top removed,
ready for bunching for market. Six or eight are usually put in a bunch.

ENDIVE.

Endive is another plant but little inquired for in this country, and yet it isan excellent autumn
and winter salad. It is naturally very bitter, but this is much
lessened by blanching. The Endive is thought to be a native of
China. For growing, select a cool, moist situation, such as
would answer for growing Lettuce in the summer. Sow the
seed late in the spring, or even as late as July, in shallow drills,
and when the plants are strong thin out so that they will stand 2

a >

about a foot apart. Towards fall gather up the plant in a conical
form, and tie near the top. The outside, coarse leaves will keep

the plant in shape and blanch those inside near the heart. Sometimes a little earth is drawn
toward the plant. Plants not needed for autumn use can be taken up and planted in a‘bed of
earth in the cellar, the tops being tied up, and the roots only in the earth. In this way they will
keep until spring. Be sure that the plants are dry when they are tied up or stored in the cellar.

[Vick’s Flower and Vegetable Garden is published by James Vick, Rochester, N. Y. Price, in paper
covers, 50 cents; bound in handsome cloth covers, $1.00. At this price it will be sent by mail, Jostage paid,
to any part of the world.

Every year, on the first of December, we publish a Priced Catalogue of Seeds, giving the prices of every-
thing for the Winter and Spring. Weill send this free to all who write for it, enclosing the postage, Two Cents.

Vick’s Floral Guide is a Quarterly Magazine, beautifully printed and illustrated. Price, only 25 cents a
year. To every one who trades with us to the amount of One Dollar it is sent free. Two Dollars for a club of
Five. Any person having paid for the GurpE, and afterward ordering seeds, can deduct the money sent for the
GUIDE. |

All my works are published both in the ExgZish and German languages.

A Wholesale Catalogue published on the 15th of December each year, for the benefit of Dealers in Seeds,
and sent free to all who apply.

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